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Me in the 70's


Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact bsmoot


Point Rank: # 308
Total Points: 1,853
Last Year: 44
Last 30 Days: 15
253 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has bsmoot been climbing?










Contributions


All 882 | Routes 60 | Areas 9 | Photos 187 | Page Improvements | Comments 183 | Posts 273 | Stars 155 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Great White Throne : South Face Diagonal (5.9 PG13) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: The big dead tree at the left of the photo is a prominent land mark to look for when exiting the trail.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Equipment Overhang (5.11a)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Here's a little history back in the '70s about the bolts.

Kim Miller began working on the FFA, mid-'70s. There were NO bolts on the route at the time. He freed it close to the same time Roberts freed it. He also said:

"After this, Mark Ward put a bolt in at the crux first move, left of the crack. He and I had both ripped pieces out from that area so added a bolt. I put a great Lost Arrow pin in at the roof before the final lie back. This was later - way later - replaced with another bolt."


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Wheeler Route (5.11)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: Agreed, it's a good name. There's already a route or two here in the Wasatch that bear the Wheeler name.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lisa Falls : Lisa Falls Buttress : Sweep Left (5.10b)
By: bsmoot When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: I've always thought that bolt was too close to a scenic waterfall. IMO it shouldn't be replaced ever.


Location: RKM : Photos of history and frien... : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: Now, years later I have enough chest hair to cover my white skin...It's a lot warmer in winter now.


Location: RKM : Photos of history and frien... : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: Yes! The external frame backpacks...great for hauling up the Robbins traverse ledges and up the chimneys!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Emigration Canyon : This is the Choss. . . A Ch... : Chossalicious! (5.10a) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: Wow! Even the photo is chossy. Someday, in the far distant future, I'll have to re-visit this place.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Provo Canyon : Provo Canyon Ice : Upper Bridal Veil Falls (WI5+) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Don't think so. It rarely gets climbed when there's no farming.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Provo Canyon : Provo Canyon Ice : The Fang (WI5)
By: bsmoot When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: We found a really good approach yesterday. After crossing the bridge, instead of turning right continue strait up a side canyon heading South. After a few minutes, a good trail branches right. Follow switch backs up for a while. The trail then makes a long traverse West to base of the first pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Fin Arete (5.10b R) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: Thanks, this photo was taken from the original last pitch belay. We recently replaced that final bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Heisenberg (5.13a)
By: bsmoot When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Yes! On an exploratory probe, this is where Clay, on one of his first aid climbing lead leads ever, tackled the steepest part of this big airy roof. Just as he was pulling over the top, he desperately tried to place anything that would hold his weight. He found only small, shallow groove type cracks. A big plunge into space was taken here as some of his manky placements ripped.

Clay, this wouldn't have happened if you would have brought...some Bashies!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : White Wave Wall : Rhinoplasty (5.12c)
By: bsmoot When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: The old upper bolts were supposed to be a route/project that branched off to the right of Knuckle Up. They're my bolts. Branching off from Naked Nebula seems like a better way to go...airy looking route!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Gas Boost (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Chain links have been replaced


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : White Wave Wall : Virtual Reality (5.11d)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: We just pulled one bolt that was in questionable rock and added 2 to the bottom of this route to make it safer. Remember to move right at the 3rd bolt. If you don't, you will connect up with the other route, which doesn't work well. Fun steepness!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : The Nerve (5.11a) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Great shot of the cool belay ledge on top of the first pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : The Nerve (5.11a) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: No, it was a bit later. We did this route in 1983


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: This is where we roped up. From the top...Jim Dockery, Howard Schultz, Jonathan Smoot.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Zinger (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: At the top of the 2nd pitch, I continued past the belay bolts for 20 more feet to the comfortable belay ledge. The single bolt can be backed up with some small TCU's or by jamming the rope in a wide spot behind the ledge....way better belay.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Astroprojection (5.11d)
By: bsmoot When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: These bolts are 3/8" 5 piece rawls.

Update: These are the originals. Maybe they just look thinner because some don't have washers.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Goodro's Nightmare (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: We named this after Harold, because he, being quite barrel chested, would not have fit very well into the offwidth.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Iron Curtain Wall : Up In a Flash (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 3, 2013

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Comments: Just because a bolt is a spinner, does not necessary mean that it's strength is that much compromised. They are all 3/8" rawl 5 piece bolts. Sure they're old, but I wouldn't have a problem taking a whipper on any of them. It happens all the time on the harder routes at Parley's...they'll get replaced eventually by the ASCA...but yes, Parley's could use some TLC.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Ice : The Box Canyon Ice Climbs : Maple Moon (WI5)
By: bsmoot When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: The ice continues quite a bit further beyond where you can see from below...bring enough screws, it's a long pitch.


Location: Northern Utah & Idaho : Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13 : Post : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: Can't believe you guys were pelting us with snowballs! It was bad enough dodging the ice fall from above.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : ... : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: Can you please just trundle that rock on that upper ledge?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Dorsal Fin (5.10d)
By: bsmoot When: Jan 6, 2013

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Comments: "The rusty bolts/anchor you describe as the anchor at the top of the second pitch is technically the top of the third pitch. There is no fixed anchor at the top of the second pitch, you need to build one right after the short traverse left to the bottom of the meat of the big right facing corner and crack part of the climb."

The original top of the 2nd pitch belay was in the corner, below the leftward traverse. You can build a belay with small stoppers. There used to b... more >>


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