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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Astroprojection (5.11d)
By: bsmoot When: May 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: These bolts are 3/8" 5 piece rawls.
Update: These are the originals. Maybe they just look thinner because some don't have washers.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Goodro's Nightmare (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: We named this after Harold, because he, being quite barrel chested, would not have fit very well into the offwidth.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Iron Curtain Wall : Up In a Flash (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just because a bolt is a spinner, does not necessary mean that it's strength is that much compromised. They are all 3/8" rawl 5 piece bolts. Sure they're old, but I wouldn't have a problem taking a winger on any of them. It happens all the time on the harder routes at Parley's...they'll get replaced eventually by the ASCA...but yes, Parley's could use some TLC.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Ice : The Box Canyon Ice Climbs : Maple Moon (WI5)
By: bsmoot When: Mar 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The ice continues quite a bit further beyond where you can see from below...bring enough screws, it's a long pitch.
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Location: Northern Utah & Idaho : Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13 : Post : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Feb 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can't believe you guys were pelting us with snowballs! It was bad enough dodging the ice fall from above.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : ... : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jan 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can you please just trundle that rock on that upper ledge?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Dorsal Fin (5.10d)
By: bsmoot When: Jan 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: "The rusty bolts/anchor you describe as the anchor at the top of the second pitch is technically the top of the third pitch. There is no fixed anchor at the top of the second pitch, you need to build one right after the short traverse left to the bottom of the meat of the big right facing corner and crack part of the climb."
The original top of the 2nd pitch belay was in the corner, below the leftward traverse. You can build a belay with small stoppers. There used to b... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Dec 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...and Dad, I was more scared than she.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Fallen Arches (5.13a) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Dec 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This photo appeared in a very old issue of Climbing Magazine...or was it Summit Magazine?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Burner Buttress : Burner (5.10)
By: bsmoot When: Dec 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: F.A. Mark Ward & Kim Miller, 1976
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Northeast Buttress (5.11a R)
By: bsmoot When: Oct 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sad news on this route...
www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1966172&tn=0
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Tingey's Terror (5.7)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The post before my comments were just deleted. Bascially what the person before me said in regards to the 2nd pitch was: "How can a scary 50' traverse with no protection be called a classic".
It's classic because of history and the mental challenge. The first ascent party, who were in hiking boots, basically went from stance to stance without protection. Bolts were harder to place back then. Routes in general used more natural protection...whatever the rock had to offer. In 1976 I timidly sh... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Hyperform Wall : Hyperform (5.10a) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're right...got it fixed, thanks
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : The Wonderette (5.12) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Sep 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where are the fixed beaks?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : Peeler Face : ... : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Sep 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cooling looking route! Nice splitters. One thing of note is that the bolts at the top of the first pitch are not part of the original Black Peeler route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Lower : Mass Wasting (5.11c)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The top two anchor bolts require long slings
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Taivallista (5.11c)
By: bsmoot When: Aug 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Rob:
Jeff said the name, "Taivallista means heavenly in Danish".
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Steorts' Ridge (5.6)
By: bsmoot When: Jul 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Adding convenience bolts to this route is such a bad idea that I don't know where to begin....just don't do it! Traditional classics need to be preserved.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Teeanova (5.12a)
By: bsmoot When: Jul 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: James, gluing that hold would be a great service...thanks!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Black Hole (5.10a)
By: bsmoot When: Jul 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Andrew & Brennan:
If you don't like the bolting I did, please let me know how it's properly done...I'm willing to listen. For now, the route is what it is. For 20 years people have been climbing this route without whining about it. Some AF routes simply have sporty bolting. If you don't like these kind of routes, stay away from them.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pentapitch (5.8) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jun 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Way back when many of these old routes were done, ropes were only 150', hence some old routes kept their tradition of shorter pitches.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Static Wall : Transformer Man (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The section between the 2nd and 3rd bolt is supposed to be protected with a cam. That was the original idea. If someome wants to add a bolt there, please do.
Edit: The title page for this climb should really note that you need a .75 camalot
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Memorial Day Buttress : Aggression (5.11c)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: F.A. Lynn Wheeler & Jay Andersen in 1983
Just prior to the first ascent, Lynn and I worked on this route experimenting with thin toed ked's which fit better in the narrow crack than the old climbing shoes that were available at the time. We each got within a move or two of the top that afternoon. A few days later, Lynn sent it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : White Wave Wall : Virtual Reality (5.11d)
By: bsmoot When: Mar 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't remember any guano filled pockets when I did this route. Yeah, fun & steep.
The first bolt is not in solid rock.
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Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar City Ice : Cedar Canyon : Cedarcicle (WI5-6)
By: bsmoot When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: First ascent was in 1985.
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