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Me in the 70's


Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 322
Total Points: 1,862
Last Year: 28
Last 30 Days: 2
265 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 892 | Routes 60 | Areas 9 | Photos 188 | Page Improvements | Comments 187 | Posts 273 | Stars 160 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : The Rumba (5.10b)
By: bsmoot When: 6 days ago

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Comments: This climb is only one pitch long, not 4.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Keel : Barking Up the Wrong Spider... (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: May 14, 2015

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Comments: When Bill reported first ascents, he sometimes listed his partner first, even if he led the crux.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Lower : Red Light District (5.10a)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 22, 2015

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Comments: At the second bolt the route goes directly under it or slightly to the left...it's not that hard. Everybody goes right, but that's not where the original route goes...be a hero and go left. Problem is, if I move the bolt farther right, then this climb will no longer have the distinction of being "the worst route in the area". :)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : The Nerve (5.11a)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: This is a heads up route...bashies, pins and non-stainless steel bolts.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Dead Snag Direttissima (5.8-)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: Excellent moderate route with surprisingly good protection. Cracks seem to appear out of nowhere. If you wander slightly, you can ease the rating down a bit.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Great White Throne : South Face Diagonal (5.9 PG13) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: The big dead tree at the left of the photo is a prominent land mark to look for when exiting the trail.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Equipment Overhang (5.11a)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Here's a little history back in the '70s about the bolts.

Kim Miller began working on the FFA, mid-'70s. There were NO bolts on the route at the time. He freed it close to the same time Roberts freed it. He also said:

"After this, Mark Ward put a bolt in at the crux first move, left of the crack. He and I had both ripped pieces out from that area so added a bolt. I put a great Lost Arrow pin in at the roof before the final lie back. This was later - way later - replaced with another bolt."


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Wheeler Route (5.11)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: Agreed, it's a good name. There's already a route or two here in the Wasatch that bear the Wheeler name.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lisa Falls : Lisa Falls Buttress : Sweep Left (5.10b)
By: bsmoot When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: I've always thought that bolt was too close to a scenic waterfall. IMO it shouldn't be replaced ever.


Location: RKM : Photos of history and frien... : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: Now, years later I have enough chest hair to cover my white skin...It's a lot warmer in winter now.


Location: RKM : Photos of history and frien... : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: Yes! The external frame backpacks...great for hauling up the Robbins traverse ledges and up the chimneys!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Emigration Canyon : This is the Choss. . . A Ch... : Chossalicious! (5.10a) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: Wow! Even the photo is chossy. Someday, in the far distant future, I'll have to re-visit this place.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Provo Canyon : Provo Canyon Ice : Upper Bridal Veil Falls (WI5+) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Don't think so. It rarely gets climbed when there's no farming.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Provo Canyon : Provo Canyon Ice : The Fang (WI5)
By: bsmoot When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: We found a really good approach yesterday. After crossing the bridge, instead of turning right continue strait up a side canyon heading South. After a few minutes, a good trail branches right. Follow switch backs up for a while. The trail then makes a long traverse West to base of the first pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Fin Arete (5.10b R) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: Thanks, this photo was taken from the original last pitch belay. We recently replaced that final bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Heisenberg (5.13a)
By: bsmoot When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Yes! On an exploratory probe, this is where Clay, on one of his first aid climbing lead leads ever, tackled the steepest part of this big airy roof. Just as he was pulling over the top, he desperately tried to place anything that would hold his weight. He found only small, shallow groove type cracks. A big plunge into space was taken here as some of his manky placements ripped.

Clay, this wouldn't have happened if you would have brought...some Bashies!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : White Wave Wall : Rhinoplasty (5.12c)
By: bsmoot When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: The old upper bolts were supposed to be a route/project that branched off to the right of Knuckle Up. They're my bolts. Branching off from Edge of Chaos seems like a better way to go...airy looking route!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Gas Boost (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Chain links have been replaced


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : White Wave Wall : Virtual Reality (5.11d)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: We just pulled one bolt that was in questionable rock and added 2 to the bottom of this route to make it safer. Remember to move right at the 3rd bolt. If you don't, you will connect up with the other route, which doesn't work well. Fun steepness!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : The Nerve (5.11a) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Great shot of the cool belay ledge on top of the first pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : The Nerve (5.11a) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: No, it was a bit later. We did this route in 1983


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: This is where we roped up. From the top...Jim Dockery, Howard Schultz, Jonathan Smoot.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Zinger (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: At the top of the 2nd pitch, I continued past the belay bolts for 20 more feet to the comfortable belay ledge. The single bolt can be backed up with some small TCU's or by jamming the rope in a wide spot behind the ledge....way better belay.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Astroprojection (5.11d)
By: bsmoot When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: These bolts are 3/8" 5 piece rawls.

Update: These are the originals. Maybe they just look thinner because some don't have washers.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Goodro's Nightmare (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: We named this after Harold, because he, being quite barrel chested, would not have fit very well into the offwidth.


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