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Rock Climbing Photo: Me in the 70's


Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact bsmoot

Point Rank: # 343
Total Points: 2,012
Last Year: 111
Last 30 Days: 20
305 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has bsmoot been climbing?










Contributions


All 966 | Routes 61 | Areas 9 | Photos 214 | Page Improvements | Comments 197 | Posts 285 | Stars 184 | Ratings 16
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments:
Bonneville wrote:
So some guys decided to bolt another route on an obscure piece of rock where you can add pro. So fuckin' what man. If you'd spend less time being a dick and more time climbing you might actually send something hard.

Even if it's an obscure area, it sets a bad precedence.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Pawn
By: bsmoot When: Mar 12, 2016

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Comments: There's info coming out in the new guide. I've been there a bit. It's a 2 hour hike, but the views are worth it.


Location:
By: bsmoot When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: This is the lower and upper Weeping Wall, 2 hours north of Banff, Alberta


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Great White Throne : Northwest Face (5.9 A2) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jan 12, 2016

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Comments: Some friends of mine likely climbed the route just before you guys. They descended down via the grotto in a storm. They weren't really rescued by the rangers, but just borrowed a long rope from them so they could complete that last long rappel.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Great White Throne : Northwest Face (5.9 A2) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jan 12, 2016

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Comments: Paul, since you've done the route, perhaps you could provide a line drawing of your own. I haven't done it but was going off a description of a friend who had.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Moroni : Crack in the Cosmic Egg (5.10 C2+)
By: bsmoot When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: We didn't use any big hooks, but maybe someone else found them useful. The midway ledge is too sloping to lay down on. I used a hammock but it was a long night! The top may require a little hunting around, but you should be able to find something.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Fin Arete (5.10b R)
By: bsmoot When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Mark, too bad you and Terry had to leave Salt Lake...miss you guys. Getting to bolt 6 on the first pitch always gets my blood pumping.


Location: bsmoot : People : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: Yes, it's about 75-100 yards west.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : ... : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Mountain Dreamer wrote:

"Historical Note: Fred Beckey and Layton Kor actually climbed this route during their 1961 ascent of "The Hook". "The Climber's Schoolroom" was not climbed until 1964."

"This route was widely, but erroneously, published as being part of the Schoolroom route. The latest print guide and Rakkup App corrects this."


Well, if you're that anal about these things. The first pitch of Schoolroom has been grandfathered in since the 60's & 70's because the origi... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Six Appeal (5.6)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: dnaiscool said:

"The only purpose for this route is to get to the anchors on the top of Goodro's Wall..."

Not true, there's tons of beginners who just climb this route, then call it a day.

Update: Thanks James for the bolt replacement!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Iron Curtain Wall
By: bsmoot When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: "Just a heads up to anyone that hasn't been here before, all the first bolts at this crag are WAY off the deck."

OK, the following routes now have a new fist bolt to help protect one from decking.

- Pick-Pocket
- Mutation
- Up in a Flash
- Gotta be tall or else you'll fall
- Iron Curtain
- Out of Touch

26 years ago the ground at the base of these routes was actually 2-3 feet higher. There has been a lot of wearing away and lowering of the soil believe it or not. Even so, the old trad mentalit... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Butcher Knife (5.10d)
By: bsmoot When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: ALL of the old 1/4" rawl bolts have been replaced with new stainless steel 3/8" bolts!

9 protection have been replaced, using the same holes.
1 new added on the runout last pitch,
5 new belay bolts

Thanks to the ASCA & Mike White for the bolts and removal gear.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : The Rumba (5.10b)
By: bsmoot When: May 17, 2015

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Comments: This climb is only one pitch long, not 4.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Keel : Barking Up the Wrong Spider... (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: May 14, 2015

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Comments: When Bill reported first ascents, he sometimes listed his partner first, even if he led the crux.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Lower : Red Light District (5.10a)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 22, 2015

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Comments: At the second bolt the route goes directly under it or slightly to the left...it's not that hard. Everybody goes right, but that's not where the original route goes...be a hero and go left. Problem is, if I move the bolt farther right, then this climb will no longer have the distinction of being "the worst route in the area". :)

Update:

There is now a new bolt to the right, so you can go either way.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : The Nerve (5.11a)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: This is a heads up route...bashies, pins and non-stainless steel bolts.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Dead Snag Direttissima (5.8-)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: Excellent moderate route with surprisingly good protection. Cracks seem to appear out of nowhere. If you wander slightly, you can ease the rating down a bit.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Great White Throne : South Face Diagonal (5.9 PG13) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: The big dead tree at the left of the photo is a prominent land mark to look for when exiting the trail...very helpful photo.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Equipment Overhang (5.11a)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Here's a little history back in the '70s about the bolts.

Kim Miller began working on the FFA, mid-'70s. There were NO bolts on the route at the time. He freed it close to the same time Roberts freed it. He also said:

"After this, Mark Ward put a bolt in at the crux first move, left of the crack. He and I had both ripped pieces out from that area so added a bolt. I put a great Lost Arrow pin in at the roof before the final lie back. This was later - way later - replaced with another bolt."


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Wheeler Route (5.11)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: Agreed, it's a good name. There's already a route or two here in the Wasatch that bear the Wheeler name.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lisa Falls : Lisa Falls Buttress : Sweep Left (5.10b)
By: bsmoot When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: I've always thought that bolt was too close to a scenic waterfall. IMO it shouldn't be replaced ever.


Location: RKM : Pictures of history and fri... : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: Now, years later I have enough chest hair to cover my white skin...It's a lot warmer in winter now.


Location: RKM : Pictures of history and fri... : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: Yes! The external frame backpacks...great for hauling up the Robbins traverse ledges and up the chimneys!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Emigration Canyon : This is the Choss. . . A Ch... : Chossalicious! (5.10a) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: Wow! Even the photo is chossy. Someday, in the far distant future, I'll have to re-visit this place.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Provo Canyon : Provo Canyon Ice : Upper Bridal Veil Falls (WI5+) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Don't think so. It rarely gets climbed when there's no farming.


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