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Member Since: Jul 12, 2010
Last Visit: Sep 16, 2014
Contact Bryan Pletta


Point Rank: # 15,000
Total Points: 9
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 134 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 9 | Posts 1 | Stars 63 | Ratings 61
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Andy Boy Wall : Would You Like Fries With T... (5.10+)
By: Bryan Pletta When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: To clarify gear, I used two 0.4 Camalots on the FA not two #4s. You could also probably take two #3s, although I think the #4 works better at the top of the wide crack. The wide section is actually pretty fun, laybacking the edge and climbing stacked (safely wedged) blocks on jugs. The first roof is a hoot - completely improbable as you are standing below it, but everything is there when you need it.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Alioth : Aerial Boundaries (5.11d)
By: Bryan Pletta When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: Regarding the fixed gear, the climb was done ground up over the course of a couple of seasons. We placed what was reasonable at the time and a pin is always faster and easier to place than a bolt. Some of the line got straightened out over time with better fixed gear allowing for a better line. I feel that most of the bolts are pretty good with the exception of the half depth button head on the first belay. Gary Hicks broke the bit when drilling that bolt and placed it anyway to back up the f... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal ...
By: Bryan Pletta When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: The Santa Fe National Forest issued a temporary closure order for Jemez (aka Crystal) Cave on August 21st. The closure applies to all users and is in effect until rescinded or for one year and includes the cave and surrounding area within 50 feet as well as the access trails. They plan on fencing and posting the area next week. Violations are punishable by fines of up to $5000 and/or imprisonment of up to 6 months.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal ...
By: Bryan Pletta When: Aug 8, 2012

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Comments: The Forest Service is in the process of signing a temporary closure order for Jemez (aka Crystal) Cave in order to do an archeological investigation of the area. The Cave is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and as such is protected from damage or vandalism by Federal Law and subject to prosecution. Depending on the results of the investigation the area may be subject to permanent closure. At this point in time I would recommend that climbers refrain from climbing at Crystal ... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal ...
By: Bryan Pletta When: Jun 16, 2012

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Comments: I just got this message from Jeff Harris the Jemez Ranger Station Recreation Staff "We got up to the cave this morning with our archeologists. It is safe to say that we all were greatly impressed. Thank you and the volunteer crew for removing the chains/quickdraws. Your effort is greatly appreciated. Thanks again, Jeff." Let's hope this proactive gesture buys us some good will with the Forest Service and Jemez Pueblo. It looks like we have a meeting set up with them for late July to discuss the... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Fowl Play (5.10 PG13)
By: Bryan Pletta When: Jun 9, 2012

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Comments: This sounds like the route that John Duran did at the time that he added the bolted belays on Aviary Ort. I have never done it but am interested to check it out.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal ...
By: Bryan Pletta When: Jun 7, 2012

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Comments: Crystal Cave is at risk of closure due to concerns from the Forest Service and Jemez Pueblo about the cultural and archaeological significance of Jemez (aka Crystal) Cave. The cave is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is significant due to the discovery of possibly the earliest dated food source in the SW as well as cultural significance to the Pueblo. In brief, there is concern that climbing could be impacting archaeological soot deposits, that the cave may be an ancient b... more >>


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Bryan Pletta When: Nov 3, 2011

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Comments: The last I heard in early October was that there was a closure sign on the road. If the road is posted as closed, please respect the closure and use the Davenport Canyon access. NM CRAG and the Access Fund are currently in discussions with the landowner to clarify the landowners intention with regards to access through Thompson Canyon and will post details here once final word is received from the ranch owners.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains
By: Bryan Pletta When: Jul 12, 2010

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Comments: The NM Climbers' Resource and Advocacy Group (NM CRAG) will be holding its annual meeting to elect officers on Friday July 16th at Stone Age Climbing Gym at 6:30 pm. In addition to holding elections for new officers the main purpose of this meeting will be to discuss a proposal to the US Forest Service (USFS) regarding the management of fixed anchors in the Sandia Mountain Wilderness.

An incident occurred a few weeks ago in which several well meaning but misguided climbers were using a motor... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave) is [still] closed to climbingArizona & New MexicoBryan PlettaSep 9, 2014

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Tiger by the Tail 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : ... : (09) The Far Side II

Lonesome Dove 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : ... : (09) The Far Side II

Sidewinder 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : ... : (01) The Entrance

Gunslinger 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : ... : (04) Showdown Wall

Mr. Hyde 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Hole in the Wall

Voodoo Child 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Torreon

Autumn Ivy 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Clandestine Wall

Skinwalker 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Clandestine Wall

Estrellita 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Estrellita

Mountain Momma 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Torreon

Aerial Boundaries 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Alioth

Clean Sweep 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Estrellita

Quickdraw McGraw 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : ... : (06) The Dihedral Wall

Crack Attack 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

NM : El Rito : ... : Rad Wall

Green Eggs and Ham 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : ... : (06) The Dihedral Wall

Instant Classic 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : The Grandstand

Rode Hard 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : ... : (05) The Transition Zone

Cobzilla 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NM : El Rito : ... : The Balcony

Big - T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Bush Shark Area

Sister Sledge 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Hole in the Wall

Angry Sea Bass 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NM : El Rito : ... : The Balcony

Dr Jeckle 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Hole in the Wall

Miss Piggy 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Hole in the Wall

Paydirt 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Hole in the Wall

Body Nazi 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Hole in the Wall

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