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Member Since: Feb 16, 2008
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Bryan Hall

Point Rank: # 4,180
Total Points: 145
Last Year: 9
Last 30 Days: 2
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bryan Hall been climbing?










Contributions


All 289 | Routes 3 | Areas 3 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 45 | Posts 84 | Stars 139 | Ratings 10
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (3) Snake Wall : Snake Roof (5.10a)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 14, 2016

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Comments: I think Snake Face to the left is much better. That being said, if you lead Snake Face to try and TR this route you need to be aware of the legitimate potential for a swinging fall into the tree nearby. It would be a pretty nasty hit. Put some directionals in if you plan to do this.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (8) Old School Wall : Standing Ovation (5.9)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 3, 2016

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Comments: I'm not sure why this route has been downgraded to 5.9. I climbed it again today and feel as though it's an obvious step above other 5.9s in the same area and harder than a few of the 5.10a's.

Maybe there is some sneaky beta to make it easier? I'll run it again one soon and try to look for it...


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (8) Old School Wall : Little Dipper (5.7)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 31, 2016

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Comments: It should be noted that after you pass the anchor for Ripper, which is about 1/2 way up, the climb turns into more of a dirty/scramble with poor to no pro. An inexperienced leader will struggle finding pro and will definitely be in ground fall territory. The experienced leader with micro pieces, a brush to clear spiderwebs, and a knack for finding pro will be able to protect it but will most likely simply solo to the top.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6)
By: Bryan Hall When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments: Climbed the roof variation as the first pitch. Fun. The second pitch anchors are easily reached with my 60m rope. Probably 190' or so? We rappelled the route with a single rope, full length single strand rappel and then asked a bystander to untie and drop our rope after we were back to the p1 anchor. P1 is easily rappelled with a single rope from there. I would never walk off.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Dirty Pinkos (5.9+)
By: Bryan Hall When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: Got to disagree with all the praise for this route. It is safely bolted and does follow a cool line, but the loose and hollow rock on it is plentiful. I was lucky enough to climb it on a weekday and was intentionally cleaning minifridge sized blocks off this route on the lower pitches while I could still see that it was clear below. The upper pitches also need a great deal of cleaning for both lichen and bad rock.

I'd give it 1 star, an "OK" rating, and at most 5.8 in difficulty. It should get... more >>


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Shoot From the Hip (5.10+)
By: Bryan Hall When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: This route does feel like a very hard 10c onsight. I don't think the description posted here is accurate though. The beta is strange to figure out first go, but once you've climbed the route there isn't any strenuous lock-off or dynamic move required.

Chimney technique will get you passed the first bolt and into a fingerlock and then up to the lieback. Look for the holds that aren't necessarily painted in chalk. There are multiple unchalked bomber holds on this route. Up top it can be hard to ... more >>


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Hard Body (5.11b) : Photo
By: Bryan Hall When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: Not a slab. Small edges section.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Zion (5.10a/b)
By: Bryan Hall When: Mar 19, 2015

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Comments: Not sure why this line is heralded as such a must do. There's a lot more interesting climbing at smith in my opinion.


Location: Northern Utah & Idaho : south ridge superior : Post : Photo
By: Bryan Hall When: Mar 17, 2015

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Comments: Yeah that's in there. Especially with the X4 glue problems that would be a real puzzle to remove.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Chairman Mao's Little Red B... (5.11a)
By: Bryan Hall When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: The first "pitch" is basically 5.5 choss that doesn't take much, if any, solid gear.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (1) Koala Rock : Thin Air (5.10a)
By: Bryan Hall When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: To add to the decent options... I agree that rapping the route could be a little tough on the rope and recommend other alternatives. A bit of 3rd and 4th class scrambling gets you to the backside rappel or walk off. The walk off is an EASY 8 foot 3rd class down climb to a ledge and then a walk down 3rd class dihedral formation to put you right next to "The Knob 10a"

After that the scree slope sucks no matter what.

Finally, the 5.8 trad pitch is infinitely better in my opinion than the one mov... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Orgasmophoria (5.10b/c)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: I agree, it would be nice if rap anchors were added to this route. It's also not noted in the guidebook that the walk off is sketch and that rappelling requires a different anchor and two ropes.

I got caught in a lightning storm on this one a few days ago and was pissed to be improvising a rapid decent because of the lack of info on this route! Should have checked MP...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (6) Northwest Face : Thieves Like Us (5.10d)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: It should be noted that the left side of this route brushes up against poor rock. Care is advised in order to prevent pulling any of the larger stuff down on your belayer until the rock cleans up a bit.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Heathen's Highway (5.10a PG13)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Lots of bolts swinging on the zig zag pitch as of 8/9/2013 and the last one is so far out that it would be a miracle if it actually held a fall...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Revelations (5.9)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: Yep, bring your nuts for this one. The first bolt is scary for sure. I'm comfortable onsighting 10's on sport and trad at Smith but didn't enjoy the journey to the first bolt. Once it's clipped you'll enjoy the run to the anchors.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Earth Boys (5.10b)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: Fun route with cool moves and great holds. Maybe a little spicy getting to that second bolt? Groundfall?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Pop Art (5.10b)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: Lots of small holds on mottled rock. Not my thing.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Breakdown in Paradise (5.10c)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: This route shouldn't be underestimated. It feels like 5.11 if you follow the bolts. If you go out left you are looking at a real pendulum and I've seen people hurt from taking that fall. NOT for the shaky 5.10 leader.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (3) Phoenix : When Llamas Bolt (5.11a)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: Tough pocket climbing that is great fun for Smith. I don't think it's overbolted or contrived. Check it out on TR after climbing Scary Llamas 5.8 to the right of it. Watch out for bees in the pockets mid/late summer...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Dances with Clams (5.10a/b)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: Still 10a despite any "missing holds" but is a great warmup romp on this wall.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (3) Phoenix : Fred On Air (5.10c/d)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: Great route on solid rock. Fun crux and then enjoyable climbing afterwards!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (2) Llama Wall : Llama Enlightenment (5.10c)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: The rock is not suspect at all if you stop at the first pitch anchor which is all that is worth climbing.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (f) Cocaine Gully : Vomit Launch (5.11b)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: Great fun. Purely a physical fitness route without any single hard move standing out.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (1) Koala Rock : Round River (5.4)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: Fun route with great views.

Second pitch needs trad gear or you can just run it out like crazy on the giant potholes and low angle terrain to the anchor.

Third pitch variation is worth doing. Round River Direct is a nice 5.8 and is well bolted to the top with the crux at the second bolt.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (6) Northwest Face : Wherever I May Roam (5.9)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Nice route but the description needs a bit of an update...

The climb isn't sustained at 5.8/5.9. There is typically a crux move on each pitch and then it eases back quite a bit afterwards.

Pitch 2 DOES NOT have a separate line of bolts on it. Pitch 2 goes up and left and is very clear.

Pitch 3 DOES HAVE 2 lines of bolts leading you away from the mainline. Keep driving left and up whenever possible! When you reach the belay, build your anchor off the bolts, not rings to keep them open for peop... more >>


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