Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Happy Turk


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Apr 27, 2016
Contact Bryan Gartland

Point Rank: # 1,428
Total Points: 520
Last Year: 28
Last 30 Days: 21
48 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bryan Gartland been climbing?










Contributions


All 275 | Routes 12 | Areas 3 | Photos 59 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 54 | Posts 46 | Stars 81 | Ratings 18
Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Allenspur : Main Crag : Look Ma, No Hands (5.8 PG13)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Really good rock with fun moves, for a slab.

FA - K Hutchinson

Kevin told me he once 3rd classed this in approach shoes - yikes.


Location: MT : Hyalite Canyon : Practice Rock : Pinnacle Standard (5.6)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: One can top out on Practice Rock via a short but airy second pitch (5.5). Step across the gap and move up the featured face to the top. Most people rap from the pinnacle but it's worth doing the whole thing at least once.


Location: MT : Sheep Mountain : Hay Stack Rock : School Daze (5.7)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 21, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Fairly long pitch but you have to zigzag back and forth on ramps and rails to keep this thing at 5.7. Following the direct bolt line feels at least 5.9.

A large, stone memorial was bolted to the rock just right of the start of School Daze in 2015. Not trying to be insensitive to the deceased or their family, but it's kinda jerry-rigged with lightweight shelving brackets and will probably fall off before too long. Dwight's low-profile memorial below the King at Spire Rock would be a good mode... more >>


Location: MT : Sheep Mountain : Hay Stack Rock : Beer Barrel Arete (5.7)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 21, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: See comment under Broken Keg Blues.

BBA is actually to the LEFT of BKB and the two routes do not share an anchor. BBA does share an anchor with the route immediately to its left.

A bolt towards the top of the climb has been missing a hanger for several years, but the climbing at the bolt is easy 5th Class so it's not too bad as is.

Best sport route at Haystack.


Location: MT : Sheep Mountain : Hay Stack Rock : Broken Keg Blues (5.7)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 21, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The Central Montana Rock book got this and Beer Barrel Arête mixed up in the published photo. Broken Keg Blues is located on the south face of Haystack, towards looker's left. It starts about 30 feet RIGHT of the BBA. And it does not share an anchor with BBA - it has it's own set of chains.

BKB is a sandbag at 5.7. Moving from the crack into the small bowl above the second(?) bolt is more like 5.8 or 5.9.


Location: MT : Sheep Mountain : Happy Hour
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jan 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Happy Hour has somewhat of an access issue. Friends of mine have been approached by a nearby homeowner about trespassing while climbing there. The crag is clearly on BLM land but the approach is a little iffy (note the old fence). The question is whether the public road right-of-way covers the approach to the public ground, or not.

To keep things civil, please park at the pullout down the road (by the bridge and stupid realty sign) and walk a couple hundred yards up to the rock.

On a lighte... more >>


Location: MT : Humbug Spires : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jan 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Drone photo?


Location: MT : Humbug Spires : The Mutt and Jeff (5.8)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jan 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I think that the descent, including the scramble over to the anchors, is one of the highlights of any Wedge summit route. It's fine the way it is -- good, airy fun! I haven't climbed it in a couple years but I recall good bolts at the end of the "knife edge" in addition to the rusty old pins. Also, there is/was an intermediate rap station (bolts) that negates any need for slinging a tree if you only have one rope.

Make sure your rap line(s) are set up to pull as freely as possible before lea... more >>


Location: MT : Homestake Pass : Dragon's Back : Owl Dihedral (5.8)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Nov 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Quality, worthwhile route should Proboscis have traffic.

Steep too.


Location: MT : Hyalite Canyon : Mummy Area : Mummy I (WI2) : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Aug 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is actually Mummy II.


Location: CO : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jun 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dillon_R...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Rotwand Route (5.7 X) : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: May 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely Boulos.


Location: MT : Revenue Flats : The Wafers : Land of the Lost (5.9)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Many of the quartz knobs have broken off this route. Moving from the last bolt to the angling crack feels pretty spicy for 5.9. Toprope access can be had from the west via some 3rd Class moves.


Location: CO : South Platte : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Feb 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The Buffalo Creek Fire did produce an amazing smoke column when it flared up that spring/summer of 1996. I remember it distinctly because of the way it was pluming over the crest of the Rampart Range just as my high school graduation at Fiddler's Green was finishing up. In a way, it was quite fitting given the fact that the fire completely torched Top of the World and a lot of the other places that my friends and I hung out and came of age. Thanks for posting this, Allen.


Location: MT : Pine Creek
By: Bryan Gartland When: Dec 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Après climb drinks and soaks at Chico Hot Springs are mandatory after a day in Pine Creek.


Location: MT : Spire Rock : King (West Face) : White Line (5.8)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Dec 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The second pitch is one of the best 5.8 cracks in Montana.


Location: MT : Pine Creek : Pine Creek Falls (WI2)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Sep 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Re: the lower-right branch of Pine Creek Falls, which is the line pictured in the photos above:

Climbers expecting WI2 all the way to the top are in for a bit of a shock at the final bulge below the anchor. It's 15 ft or so of near vertical ice and can't be seen from the base of the climb.


Location: MT : Madison River Area : Crew Crag
By: Bryan Gartland When: Aug 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: In 1998 or thereabouts Chris Kurowski and I topped out on the right-facing book just left of "Balance of Power". It went at 5.8 or 5.9, was fairly dirty, but is a worthy adventure route if you're looking for something new to do on the Madison.

The short tower-esque formation downhill and to the right (south) of this buttress also hosts a fun little gear climb in the 5.7 range that finishes on a splitter crack, by Montana standards…

I'm psyched to check out "Balance" sometime in the future. ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Aug 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: That's exactly where we were headed, in fact.

Great route!


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Allenspur
By: Bryan Gartland When: Aug 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the quick response, Hermes.

And congrats on ticking that long-standing project.


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Allenspur
By: Bryan Gartland When: Aug 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I understand that the access/ownership issues continue on the north end of the main crag -- any updates on the legality of climbing Beach Ball, The Prow, etc.?

Has Beach Ball seen its FFA yet?


Location: CO : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 3, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: It is good water, just don't bring up the topic with someone from the western slope.


Location: WY : Yellowstone National Park : Lamar Valley
By: Bryan Gartland When: Feb 13, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Folks have been bouldering in the Lamar for years. I'd wager that most of the easier things that are visible from the road have already been done.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Sparerib Area : Zig Zag (5.8)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Sep 20, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Big gear is nice to have on this one.


Location: John J. Glime : climbing : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Sep 18, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: I Love Golfing?


Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!