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Rock Climbing Photo: Granite Peak, Sept 2014  Photo by Steve Story


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact Bryan Gartland

Point Rank: # 1,151
Total Points: 688
Last Year: 198
Last 30 Days: 0
48 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bryan Gartland been climbing?










Contributions


All 322 | Routes 12 | Areas 3 | Photos 91 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 62 | Posts 47 | Stars 86 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MT : Revenue Flats : The Wafers : Peopleburg (5.8)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Revenue knobs are quartz, not chert.

Both are silica-rich but of entirely different geologic origins.


Location: MT : Rattler Gulch : Sidewinder Buttress
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: The direct talus slope approach to this crag is heinous. A safer, easier and more sustainable option is to angle up to Sidewinder on climber trails from down-canyon, passing near the Rock in Between and Shredder Wall. You won't entirely avoid all the loose stuff but it will help with a serious erosion issue above the main parking.

On June 26, 2016 my girlfriend and I found a recent pile of human you-know-what right at the base of Snake Eye and Don't Put... more >>


Location: MT : Rattler Gulch : Sidewinder Buttress : Snake Eye (5.8)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: This line has its own set of anchors, consisting of new hangers and single quicklinks, allowing both Snake Eye and Don't Put Your Hand in it to be independently climbed/top-roped. The single links on the anchor hangers will twist the crap out of your rope when you go to lower or rap off.

Good, steep 5.8 pulling that is more safely bolted than its neighbor to the left.


Location: MT : Rattler Gulch : Sidewinder Buttress : Don't Put Your Hand In It (5.8)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: IMO this line could warrant an R rating given the distance between bolts, the rusty Chouinard knifeblade mid-route, and the heavily polished holds from bottom to top - you can tell it gets a lot of traffic. It's not your typical moderate Montana limestone clip-up. A climber that blows the second clip will likely deck from 20 feet on the dead juniper ledge... All that and the large, semi-detached flake (with lots of chalk on it) just below the top out. Pull down, not out!
... more >>


Location: CO : Spanish Peaks : The Stonewall : North Lake North : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: Route locations are approximate, it's been a long time since I've been in the area.


Location: MT : Blue Cloud
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Quick vehicle access to Blue Cloud remains uncertain and the approach is currently a bit longer than years past. Owners of the private ground east of the Forest Service boundary are still allowing walk-in access but you must park at the fork just past the third creek crossed by the gravel road. This is the point where new barriers and "foot traffic only" signs are presently posted and is about 3.8 miles from the Baxendale FD/HWY 12. It is at most 0.25 miles befor... more >>


Location: UT : Vermilion Cliffs : Wire Pass Trail
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
"Trail can be biked or hiked on foot."

WHOA! Biking in a designated wilderness?


Location: MT : Sheep Mountain : Hay Stack Rock
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Good beginner area with virtually no approach.

In addition to the climbs detailed here, there are at least three sets of toprope anchors (only hangers, no chains) which can be accessed via the easy third class scramble that starts in the notch below the east side of the crag, just above the parking. They are all generally located on the large, sloping ledge/ramp that wraps around the east and south aspects of Hay Stack.

The first set is off to the right after gaining the slab. It is situat... more >>


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Allenspur : Main Crag : Look Ma, No Hands (5.8 PG13)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: Really good rock with fun moves, for a slab.

FA - K Hutchinson

Kevin told me he once 3rd classed this in approach shoes - yikes.


Location: MT : Hyalite Canyon : Practice Rock : Pinnacle Standard (5.6)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: One can top out on Practice Rock via a short but airy second pitch (5.5). Step across the gap and move up the featured face to the top. Most people rap from the pinnacle but it's worth doing the whole thing at least once.


Location: MT : Sheep Mountain : Hay Stack Rock : School Daze (5.7)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: This climb's anchor currently consists only of bolts and hangers, no chains. The walk-off is an easy eastward scramble down the sloping ramp to a short step with large holds.

Fairly long pitch but you have to zigzag back and forth on ramps and rails to keep this thing at 5.7. Following the direct bolt line feels at least 5.9. The climbing above the third bolt is pretty forgettable and somewhat dangerous for the leader.

A large, stone memorial was bolted to the rock just ... more >>


Location: MT : Sheep Mountain : Hay Stack Rock : Beer Barrel Arete (5.7)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: See comment under Broken Keg Blues.

BBA is actually to the LEFT of BKB and the two routes do not share an anchor. BBA does share an anchor with the route immediately to its left.

A bolt towards the top of the climb has been missing a hanger for several years, but the climbing at the bolt is easy 5th Class so it's not too bad as is.

Best sport route at Haystack.


Location: MT : Sheep Mountain : Hay Stack Rock : Broken Keg Blues (5.8)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: The Central Montana Rock book got this and Beer Barrel Arête mixed up in the published photo. Broken Keg Blues is located on the south face of Haystack, towards looker's left. It starts about 30 feet RIGHT of the BBA. And it does not share an anchor with BBA - it has it's own set of chains.

BKB is a sandbag at 5.7. Moving from the crack into the small bowl above the second bolt is more like 5.8 or 5.9.


Location: MT : Sheep Mountain : Happy Hour
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jan 15, 2016

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Comments: Happy Hour has somewhat of an access issue. Friends of mine have been approached by a nearby homeowner about trespassing while climbing there. The crag is clearly on BLM land but the approach is a little iffy (note the old fence). The question is whether the public road right-of-way covers the approach to the public ground, or not.

To keep things civil, please park at the pullout down the road (by the bridge and stupid realty sign) and walk a couple hundred yards up to the rock.

On a lighte... more >>


Location: MT : Humbug Spires : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: Drone photo?


Location: MT : Humbug Spires : The Mutt and Jeff (5.8)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: I think that the descent, including the scramble over to the anchors, is one of the highlights of any Wedge summit route. It's fine the way it is -- good, airy fun! I haven't climbed it in a couple years but I recall good bolts at the end of the "knife edge" in addition to the rusty old pins. Also, there is/was an intermediate rap station (bolts) that negates any need for slinging a tree if you only have one rope.

Make sure your rap line(s) are set up to pull as freely as possible before lea... more >>


Location: MT : Homestake Pass : Dragon's Back : Owl Dihedral (5.8)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: Quality, worthwhile route should Proboscis have traffic.

Steep too.


Location: MT : Hyalite Canyon : Mummy Area : Mummy I (WI2) : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments: This is actually Mummy II.


Location: CO : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dillon_R...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Rotwand Route (5.7 X) : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: May 1, 2015

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Comments: Definitely Boulos.


Location: MT : Revenue Flats : The Wafers : Land of the Lost (5.9)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: This actually has only three bolts, liberally spaced for Revenue standards. There is a 15+ foot run out between the final bolt and the diagonal crack. Many of the quartz knobs have broken off this route. Moving from the last bolt to the crack feels pretty spicy for 5.9.

Toprope access can be had from the west via some 3rd Class moves. It gets good afternoon shade when many of the other climbs are baking in the sun.


Location: CO : South Platte : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Feb 3, 2015

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Comments: The Buffalo Creek Fire did produce an amazing smoke column when it flared up that spring/summer of 1996. I remember it distinctly because of the way it was pluming over the crest of the Rampart Range just as my high school graduation at Fiddler's Green was finishing up. In a way, it was quite fitting given the fact that the fire completely torched Top of the World and a lot of the other places that my friends and I hung out and came of age. Thanks for posting this, Allen.


Location: MT : Pine Creek
By: Bryan Gartland When: Dec 11, 2014

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Comments: Après climb drinks and soaks at Chico Hot Springs are mandatory after a day in Pine Creek.


Location: MT : Spire Rock : King (West Face) : White Line (5.8)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Dec 11, 2014

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Comments: The second pitch is one of the best 5.8 cracks in Montana.


Location: MT : Pine Creek : Pine Creek Falls (WI2)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: Re: the lower-right branch of Pine Creek Falls, which is the line pictured in the photos above:

Climbers expecting WI2 all the way to the top are in for a bit of a shock at the final bulge below the anchor. It's 15 ft or so of near vertical ice and can't be seen from the base of the climb.


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