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Rock Climbing Photo: Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders


Member Since: Nov 17, 2007
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Bryan G

Point Rank: # 88
Total Points: 4,949
Last Year: 340
Last 30 Days: 161
156 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bryan G been climbing?










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All 1160 | Routes 321 | Areas 22 | Photos 241 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 201 | Posts 251 | Stars 123 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Mideast Crisis (5.8 A2)
By: Bryan G When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: The route now goes clean at C2 (taking the left var at the top of p7). There's no heads on the route and I don't recall any essential fixed pins, so I'd say it's a safe call to leave the hammer at home if you want to drop some weight.

Also you don't need nearly as many cams as the topo calls for. Assuming you're aiding everything, you could get away with a double rack to 3" with a single #4 and #5. But maybe bring triples from .5 to #2 so you can leave one for pro occasionally... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Ten Days After (5.8 A2+)
By: Bryan G When: Apr 22, 2016

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Comments: Pitch 1 has a short section of mandatory 5.9 free climbing (after the bolt) that feels stout when it's covered in ants and you're self-belayed. Pitch 2 is also dripping wet in the spring and I had to pull like 40lbs of grass and vegetation out of the crack. If you're soloing, then link pitch 6 (the traverse) with pitch 7. You might need a 70m to do this, but it makes cleaning the traverse on rappel super easy.

Bring a couple small beaks and a sawed-off KB. Also bring a handful of heads and some... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: Bryan G When: Nov 18, 2015

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Comments: Would it be a bad idea to attempt an ascent in late november around thanksgiving? What is the possibility of ice along the route that would make it unclimbable?

The conditions depend on how recently there has been a storm. You can check the current conditions ahead of time: Yosemite Web Cams... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle
By: Bryan G When: Nov 6, 2015

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Comments: You probably climbed Kiddie Corner (5.10a, FA: Dan McDevitt, Sue McDevitt, 2000s). Bolted face leading into a right-facing corner. Requires two ropes to rap unless you swing over to the left and make a second rap off the anchors for one of those short new sport routes.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Public Sanitation Wall : Unknown and Super Fun! (5.11+)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 15, 2015

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Comments: A 60m was fine for lowering off. Felt easier than a lot of 5.11+ sport climbs in the Valley. I'd put it at maybe 5.11c


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Leaning Tower Area : Leaning Tower : Wet Denim Daydream (5.7 C3- PG13)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: After doing a handful of easy trade routes (W Face of the Tower, Liberty Cap, Lurking Fear, The Prow) and finding them altogether straightforward and easy, I was looking for something more challenging where I'd actually have to think about some of the placements. So I tried doing a hammerless ascent of Wet Denim and immediately got shut down by the beak seam on the pitch above Ahwahnee and ended up rapping to the ground.

The fact that anyone can climb that clean is incredible. Even if I had bro... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 32 - Elephant Rock : Fun Terminal (5.12a)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 6, 2015

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Comments: Did you find the top of Elephant Rock at least? From the end of the climbers trail continue straight passing near the summit, and then walk a bit left down some slabs. If you come to the edge of the cliff and aren't ontop of the Killer Pillar, then you'll probably at least have a vantage point where you can see it. Be careful to not knock anything down, as there could be parties far below.

Rock Climbing Photo: Killer Pillar
Killer Pillar



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : East Cottage Dome : West Face : Old Folks Boogie (5.10d R)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: The top is a bit runout but only 5.7 or so. The harder climbing is well protected. This is a safe lead for a 5.10 climber.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Three Brothers Area : Camp 4 Wall : Photo
By: Bryan G When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Looks like it might be Chopper (10c)? Was it about 100ft left of Doggie Do?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park
By: Bryan G When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Tuolumne has two guidebooks available and they are the same price. The Falcon Guide by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein is much more comprehensive with over 1000 routes. The Supertopo by Greg Barnes and Chris McNamara is a bit newer, full color, and features a handful of recently established routes which aren't included in the Falcon Guide, but it lacks many of the less popular formations and routes. Both books are good quality, it just comes down to whether or not you're looking to climb the clas... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Mount Broderick : Thugz Mansion (5.10b A2) : Photo
By: Bryan G When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: Is there a higher res version of this somewhere? It's difficult to read the text.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon
By: Bryan G When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: I think it makes sense to break it up into smaller sections. There were something like 80 areas listed under the main Valley page, which seems too cluttered. It would actually be nice for MP to have left to right sorting for areas in addition to routes. It could be an optional feature because for some places (like Joshua Tree) it wouldn't make sense. But in a lot of climbing venues (like Yosemite or Ten Sleep) the various crags are pretty much lined up along the rim of a canyon, so left/right so... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Cathedral Rock : Left from "Mac Daddy" (5.9)
By: Bryan G When: May 7, 2015

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Comments: It's an enjoyable climb, worth the trouble of cleaning it out imo. And most importantly it's in a high-traffic area so it will actually stay clean.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area
By: Bryan G When: May 7, 2015

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Comments: If you're trying to conserve gas, the base of Manana et al is only about a 25 min walk from Camp 4.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Curry Village : ... : Circuit Breaker (V2)
By: Bryan G When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: There's a climbers trail leading up to the base of it. The trail begins a little bit to the east of the Old Curry Area (Root Canal, Kevin's Traverse, ect...) It's been a few years since i walked up there so I don't remember the specifics other than that.

There's also some more photos and a video on the route page under the bouldering section: ??


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 31 - The Jungle Gym : Alamo (5.11a)
By: Bryan G When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: It's more than an 85' rap, I'm pretty sure you need at least a 60m to make it down.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Maxine's Wall (5.10c)
By: Bryan G When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Nah, it's still super dirty above the first pitch. The thin crack leading up to the 10c crux is pretty cool. After that it's a lot of bushwhacking up corners.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Eye in the Sky (5.10d R)
By: Bryan G When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: This climb is at most a 5.9, and even for that grade it seemed a lot easier than some other Valley 5.9's like Quicksilver and Angelica. I also get the feeling that the FA used up all their bolts on the first 5 pitches and then had to make due with gear anchors and runout climbing for the last 3 pitches. The "10b" (more like 5.8) 6th pitch is quite runout with a really bad fall onto a low-angle slab below. Expect 5.7 R/X climbing. But it's still a really cool pitch with interesting climbing in a ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 09 - Palisades and Surround... : Middle Palisade : Northeast Face (3rd) : Photo
By: Bryan G When: Mar 13, 2015

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Comments: From the ASCA website:

1st class - hiking
2nd class - scrambling and boulder hopping, hands are needed, but generally very little exposure or danger
3rd class - steep scrambling with exposure, ropes are needed for inexperienced people. An unroped fall on 3rd class terrain would likely be fatal.
4th class - steeper scrambling on small holds, ropes are needed for most people, but an experienced climber would normally climb an entire rope length without intermediate protection, then set an ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle
By: Bryan G When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: The tips crack to the right of Desperate Straights (the chimney flake) is called Cat's Squirrel. 5.12a to the first set of anchors (FA: Bill Price, Augie Klein, 1980), or 5.12b to the second set of anchors (FA: Dimitri Barton, Mike Hatchett, Dave Hatchett, Rick Lovelace, et al, 1989).


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 30 - The Rostrum : Kauk-kulator (5.11c)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: Anyone know if this has a second pitch with anchor? The crack keeps going and looks quality.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : G-Man Extension (not Book'e... (5.10d)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Yeah the FA should have done one more mantle before pulling out the drill. Clipping a bolt to do a 5.6 mantle and then facing an ankle busting runout for the 5.10+ all-points-off dyno is just strange.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock
By: Bryan G When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: To descend from the summit of Middle Cathedral

There are several potential ways to get down from the top of Middle. The option which looked the best to us is as follows:
Begin by hiking downhill towards Higher Cathedral Rock. Heavy bushwhacking will be encountered. By staying near the left edge of the ridge (above Cathedral Gully) and with careful route finding we were able to make it down to the notch without too much difficulty. From here you scramble up 3rd class ledges and ramps with... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : Direct North Buttress (DNB) (5.10b)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: The pitch 3 crux is a sandbag, it's more like 5.10d, but you've got a bolt right in front of you. The 5.9 runout off the belay on pitch 7 is the mental crux. There's a piton down below which you can clip to keep from falling on the belay, but it's still run and then you have rope drag for the rest of the pitch. If you skip the pin and manage your gear well, you can link 7, 8, and 9 all together.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : Stoner's Highway (5.10c R)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: You can eliminate the swing for the follower on pitch 1 by linking the first two pitches together: After getting a couple pieces in the underside of a flake on "pitch 2", lower down and back-clean the 3rd and 4th bolts on the first pitch, then hand-over-hand back up the rope and finish leading the second pitch.

This is one of the best 5.10's in Yosemite. Very clean rock and many enjoyable cruxes to solve. A bit spicy here and there, but never dangerous (just bring some micro cams, and make sure... more >>


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