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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Photo
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Should a used a locker and where's your helmet?!! Otherwise looks good.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : Windy Saddle Ice Flow : Photo
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Nov 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best approach is from the Beaver Brook trail, dropping in toward the fall on the shoulder (process) just east of The Secret Waterfall and dropping into the drainage when you reach the cliffs that make the fall. Snow conditions should be considered.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : Windy Saddle Ice Flow : Windy Saddle Ice Flow aka S... (WI2+) : Photo
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Nov 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yo, Allen, sorry I missed this post until now - computer confusing. Great to hear you guys were there. Cool, isolated spot, huh? Students of mine have reported sensing that they were stalked by cougars on the approach. I thought the same thing, too, on occasion. I remember helmeting up for a drive down from St. Mary's Glacier in ice road conditions. Amazing for you to meet Kor, the Great One. Young climbers all to often have never heard of Kor and his contemporaries. What great and inspired clim... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Block Top Tower : Block Top (5.9+ C2+) : Photo
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Jun 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was that helpful, Jeffeos?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Photo
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Road my bike down it - trying to match the speeds of a world-class down-hiller. Nearly bought the farm on more than one occasion. Actually double pinch-flatted near the bottom. Wait a minute, this isn’t a mountain bike blog…
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dolomite Spire : Kor Route (5.8 C2)
By: Bryan Ferguson When: May 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: D'ja ever solo it, Greg? How was it?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Photo
By: Bryan Ferguson When: May 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Allan,
Very nice remembrance. Wish I'd met Dave (maybe I did).
Wish we'd stayed in touch, Allen.
I bet we pulled back a beer or two at the Bucksnort together, without knowing it - one table away, or near those weird birds on the fireplace mantle? Or doing one arm pull-ups at the pool table?
When Jay and Lori got married, I gave them a silver (fake silver) platter with this engraving:
"Get up at ten, climb 'till noon. Meet me at the Bucksnort Saloon."
We lived up to those expectations on a f... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : ... : Photo
By: Bryan Ferguson When: May 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Loved this route. Kent and I had a great day together on this in or around 1983.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street North : Point of Moab : Variation to DSR (5.9+ A2)
By: Bryan Ferguson When: May 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: On my many return trips to Moab, among my fondest memories and reflections is the climb up Moab Point with Scott.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Block Top Tower : Block Top (5.9+ C2+)
By: Bryan Ferguson When: May 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: OK, south side, we thought that would be harder. Kudos to the Wideboyz and Crusher, et al on the project.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dolomite Spire : Kor Route (5.8 C2)
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Apr 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Greg,
I climbed it twice and my friend, Scott, soloed it once. I think it is a good solo.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Block Top Tower : Block Top (5.9+ C2+)
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Apr 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Meaning the crux is the first pitch? Just very curious as I led the wide pitch on aid until I could squeeze in. The moves out of aiders were wicked OW and sqeeze chimney that very nearly exceeded my limits - it was a climb or die (not really, but felt like it) sort of thing for me.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Block Top Tower : Block Top (5.9+ C2+)
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Apr 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: These fellas found it far easier:
wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/09/indoor-offwidths-and-spread-of>>>
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Durangutan (5.10c)
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Apr 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a strange and incongruous account of the FA of Durangutan. First of all, Durangutan was a somewhat common term used by climbers and others in Durango in those days. Search your memory, Ken. You might recall that I followed you on the FA of the second pitch (after I led the first pitch). Pretty sure you placed one bolt from a hook that day. At the belay, atop the second pitch, your wife asked you descend, You agreed. Otherwise, we would have completed the FA.
Oh, but what a great route, ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : Windy Saddle Ice Flow : Windy Saddle Ice Flow aka S... (WI2+)
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Mar 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We called this the "Secret Waterfall" for 30 years prior to the Windy Saddle naming. What do you think, should we go with Secret Waterfall?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Block Top Tower : Block Top (5.9+ C2+) : Photo
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Feb 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The blocks were used for both direct aid and protection. I stacked them with big tricams, bongs and home made number 6 "Friends". I got really scared but in hindsight, I think each placement was pretty solid. Well, so long as they were weighted... Racked 'em just like nuts - they are drilled for slings.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : Photo
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Jan 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 9th, we were glad to get the last single digit ascent, funny how that seemed important. We were climbing on the shoulders of giants.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dolomite Spire : Kor Route (5.8 C2) : Photo
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Jan 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We gotta do beers one day, or coffee, or tea, Allen.
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Location: Bryan Ferguson : Photos : Photo
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Dec 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jay!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dolomite Spire : Kor Route (5.8 C2) : Photo
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Dec 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: No, Becker looks like me, Allen.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : Windy Saddle Ice Flow : Windy Saddle Ice Flow aka S... (WI2+)
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Dec 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Funny to see the Secret Waterfall "outed” – I’ve been going there most every year since 1979. Jay and I simul-soloed it in '79. I think it's solid WI 3.
Best approach is from above. Drop off the Beaver Brook trail at the rock outcropping well before the Secret Icefall drainage. Before the Beaver Brook Trail was in, we approached from below. Not too bad, but the river crossing can be dangerous.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Block Top Tower : Block Top (5.9+ C2+)
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Sep 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Patrick, do say more. We knew it would go free when we did the FA. Would like to know more about the FFA.
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Location: Climbing Gear Discussion : APM - Auto-lock Pass-throug... : Photo
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Sep 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: AMP - Auto lock Munter pass-through
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : D.L.F.A (5.11) : Photo
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Apr 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bill, I think I may have ended up with an extra swami belt in Yose. Could it be yours? Identify and claim. It would have been in 1978.
Don't take any wooden pitons.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : D.L.F.A (5.11) : Photo
By: Bryan Ferguson When: Apr 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had one like that. Same color, even. Similar rust.
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