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Member Since: Apr 13, 2010
Last Visit: Jul 19, 2014
Contact brucy


Point Rank: # 1,227
Total Points: 493
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has brucy been climbing?










Contributions


All 182 | Routes 35 | Areas 7 | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 38 | Posts 3 | Stars 77 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : The Soft Parade (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: Well bolted- not! Or at least unless you put add-a-bolts (long slings) on bolts 3,9, and 10. Two cruxes on route (bolts 3 and 8).


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Casting Shadows (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: The crux of this route is off the 2nd bolt. Take care on the mono pockets here- more then one climber has poped finger pulleys there.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : The Mangler (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: A crux that's definitely easier if 6' or taller. We too thought the protection to be ego-based at the start, consequently not "well bolted".


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Diaper Rash (5.10-)
By: brucy When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: Poorly protected given the awful nature of the rock. Rough on the tips.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Flakes of Wrath (5.11a)
By: brucy When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: This is a route that was origionally rated 11a, but never really was. Even before the upper foot ledge broke in January of 2010 it was never easier then 11c, now it feels like 12a. The consequences of falling before the 1st bolt would not be pretty- stick clip it (this would remove the R rating). The climbing to it can be done either 6' left or 6' right at the same difficulty.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Neptune (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: A somwhat fun route that suffers from some ego-based bolting. This can be helped somewhat by bringing some wires and rp's to supplement the bolts,


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Feast and Famine (5.10d)
By: brucy When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: We (my partner and I) thought the route as way more difficult then the guide book states- if one straddles the bolts at the upper crux. Also we thought the protection could have been better placed on the upper crux as well. By chance 2 years after our ascent we overheard a party of two just finishing the route who were mumbling that they thought the route as middle 11 if Public Hanging was 11c and Armed and Dangerous was 11b.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Bombay on the Rocks (5.11c)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: Steep and fun route with big moves over blocks. One caveat however- on the lower, if self-cleaning the draws rather then someone following, the rope saws over sharp edges of the blocks (the first ascentionist neglected to round them) to the extent that I was literally waiting for the rope to part. Recommendation- have someone follow and clean or rap with tension from your belayer and clean.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : My Mom Can Crank (5.12a)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: Wonderful and varied route. Excellent positioning and looks almost impossible from the ground, which probably keeps many off the route, this is unfortunate as this one is great for the feeling of accomplishment.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Little Rig (5.11c)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: When I did the route it had a severely sandbaged rating of 5.11b. The route has seen little "serious" cleaning. Over an hour was spent cleaning a route the author should have done. The consenses from others I've spoken to is at least 5.11d with most comfortable with 5.12a.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Caldera (5.11c)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: Caldera is without a doubt the best route for it's grade in the Owens River Valley. It's varied, the positioning is a wonder, and the first ascentionists did a superb job both bolting and cleaning the route (often neglected in other routes there). Why the guide for that region does not recognize as such sounds political.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Double Exposure (5.11a/b)
By: brucy When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: A route that should never have been. Standard Queen Creek ego-based built-in runout pro (especially on the crux where a nice ledge could easily munch your ankles). Even in its finest moments it's at best blase' climbing. The rock quality is "scheise" and with aggressive cleaning (as in sledges, chisels, and crowbars) could at least been made somewhat safe. One can't depend on subsequent ascent parties to do the cleaning of a route that should have been done beforehand- this is an important respo... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon
By: brucy When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: Queen Creek is an area that suffers from somewhat loose and friable rock (welded tuff/dacite), inconsistent rating (which can be severely sandbagged), painful edges and pockets "volcanic coral", occasionally poor anchors or lack of descending hardware (necessitating dangerous walk-offs vis-a-vis an out of step late 70's/early 80's mentality), and ego-based built-in runout protection (EBR) on rock that is anything but bombproof Yosemite granite. Having an national bouldering contest there resulte... more >>


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