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Member Since: Apr 13, 2010
Last Visit: Jul 24, 2015
Contact brucy

Point Rank: # 1,301
Total Points: 522
Last Year: 29
Last 30 Days: 0
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has brucy been climbing?










Contributions


All 235 | Routes 36 | Areas 7 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 57 | Posts 4 | Stars 89 | Ratings 42
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Bloody Tax Break (5.10b)
By: brucy When: Jun 25, 2015

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Comments: All this talk about the "contrived route"- what a joke! Like the first ascensionist purposely "put" the route in the wrong place and some poor put-upon climbers only discover this when they've done the route- after the fact!

Speaking about facts: the route was, in deed, put up in 83' but by Mike Forkash and followed by Steve Gerberding and Jay Goodwin.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Pocket Dance (5.10c)
By: brucy When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: Fun route that would have been a good deal better with a bolt placed low on this rig above the first ledge. One day, someone might very well blow it getting to the now first bolt- since most don't pack large cams to the Gorge- and many won't be calling it such a "classic" anymore either, just stupid, or at least, a stupidly engineered classic sport route that the first ascensionists decided not to pro properly.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Thanks for the Mammaries (5.11a/b)
By: brucy When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: There's a reason why some routes have never been developed in the Gorge: this route is one of them. Arguably one of the flakiest and worst jobs of cleaning- or lack of to be found. It makes one wonder: what were they thinking...or not!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : Road Wave Crag
By: brucy When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: What great fun, and perfect bolt protection!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Russian Meteors (5.12b)
By: brucy When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: Ahhh...this is a 35 "meter" lead, not 35'. Use a 60 meter rope at your peril.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : Moonshiner (5.9)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: We did it too- 04/15. Still has only a single bolt anchor. Makes your wonder as to the logic of whoever took the second bolt out and left it for so long with but one!


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: We recently returned from our first visit to Malibu Creek. We did find it both beautiful and- get ready for this- quiet. Figure that out. The camping mid-week (from Sunday afternoon till Friday morning) has maybe 10% occupancy. Low season rates are $35/night + another $12 for any additional vehicle. High season- after March 1st: add another $10/night. Shower tokens are had at the first restroom machine or by the camp host. The state camping website lists a local number that nobody bothers either... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Ship of Fools (5.10a/b)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: The route description says 17 bolts- not.

Tho this is a very fun route, we thought 5.7 not 10b.

First pitch: 8 bolts
Second pitch: 4 bolts


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Equanimity (5.10b/c)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: We thought the crux were the moves in the middle and not the end.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Technical Knee-Highs (5.11a)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: At present (10/14) this is a two (2) pitch route. We thought the grading to be at most 10c- there being no move on it harder then "maybe" 10b, and that was at the end going to the anchors by staying in the mini-dihedral on the right.

Best recommendation: end the 1st pitch under the roof; do a short 4 bolt crux second pitch; and, finally, do the current last pitch 5.10a 12 bolt, when, a proper two (2) bolt anchor is installed (as of now it features a single Metolius thick han... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Unknown (5.10)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: 1st pitch crux is 10a coming in from the right, or, 10d coming in slightly from the left on small friable crimps (of which we broke a couple).

2nd pitch felt like 10a but was very, very friable and definately not recommended.

60 meter rope worked just fine.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Elizabeth Blue Moss (5.9)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: Run off the last bolt to the anchors. Possible 1/2"-3/4" placement, tho, it really cries out for another bolt to pro the crux.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Harbingers (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: Fun crux pitch on buckets out left on the arete.

Can one find any 5.11b? Sure, if one contrivedly traverses over to the right and straddles the last bolt. You'll be rewarded with a long, long reach to a painful crimp. Worth it- not!


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Thieves Karma (5.10d)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: Some route correction(s):

One, the wonderful first pitch is 14 bolts long (not 10), and the rappel is all of 110'- be aware. Yes, there are anchors at the end of this pitch.

Two, the second pitch crux is on bolts 1 and 3, and is ego based sandbagged at 10d- we thought it to be as difficult as 11c- tho 4 thru to the anchor felt like 10d. We recognize that there are areas in the country where it would be entirely appropriate to rate this climb as a 10d- plenty of them- just not here at the Prop... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : The Roofs of Jericho (5.10c)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: We thought the moves on the roof to be more like 11a not 10c in keeping with the ratings on the rest of the wall.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Candy O (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: This route "used" to be merely 11b till the sidepulls up & left of bolt 2 wore down. The route now, almost exclusively, veers way right of the bolt line (depending on how far one goes right defines just how easy one wants to make the route). The central section up to the upper headwall is easy non-demanding climbing, however, at the last three (3) bolts, be ready for a solid spate of highly sequential & technical face.

Some climbers naively feel that routes hold their grades for years, but, at... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Flex Your Bazooka (5.9)
By: brucy When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: A bolt has been added at the beginning to better protect the route.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Numb & Number (5.10a PG13)
By: brucy When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: Route description should be amended to read "...stem up to the 2nd bolt (not 3rd bolt) before casting off onto the face above..." this puts the crux on the bump move getting to the bucket by the 3rd bolt. One can stay on the face from the get go but it bumps the difficulty rating to 11+ what with the rounded bouldery layaway moves off the initial start ledge- be aware of the deck potential however. There is a move to add an additional bolt at the top to allow a direct ending to the anchors but t... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Worm Drive (5.11a PG13)
By: brucy When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: Crux is 6 bolts up, some 3 bolts off the no hands ledge half way up. One can easily hang the draws and clip the rope thru these three bolts, and, downclimb to the ledge to rest before the crux- giving one essentially top rope pro.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
By: brucy When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: Hi! Does anyone have any ideas "where" some of the new walls are at the Holcomb Pinnacle area? rockclimbling.com mentions them but doesn't give any info on where they're located. The ones I'm curious about are: Myst Wall, Peoples Wall, Slack Wall, The Tumbler, A Bigger Boulder, Algier's Wall, Escargot Rock, and, Still Life Wall. For all I know, these are but the tip of the new route iceberg. Please, there must be someone out there with the information on these; help me, I'm running out... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Road Area : Lonesome Bulldog (5.10-)
By: brucy When: Mar 3, 2011

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Comments: We thought the route needlessly run.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Road Area : Texas Duo (5.10)
By: brucy When: Mar 2, 2011

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Comments: No, this route is not clean. What holds remained that we didn't break on the route "look" like they will eventually. And, no, there were seven (7) bolts not nine (9). There was a bolt at the top with a ratty sling, and, another bolt that someone left a short quickdraw. Both ensured massive rope draggage. We replaced those with a long piece of 11 mm rope and a single quick link. Subsequent parties may (and should) wish to supplement this with additional chains or at least another sling/link combo... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Mine Area : Lower Looner Land : Three Bulges and a Baby (5.10c)
By: brucy When: Mar 2, 2011

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Comments: The crux off the 1st bolt is definitely easier if 6' or taller. There exists a new three (3) bolt route just next to Three Bulges. It felt like 11b just after the first bolt. It deserves no stars and is run to the first, after the first and near the top- unnecessarily.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Pocket Puzzle (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Feb 28, 2011

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Comments: We thougth this route to be two (2) letter grades harder then the route to the right even tho they're rated the same. Still in all,
it's one of our favorite warm ups and have been doing it for years.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Euro Dog Valley
By: brucy When: Feb 20, 2011

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Comments: Hey, umm, guys there are sport routes here too- hellloo!


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