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Member Since: Apr 13, 2010
Last Visit: Sep 1, 2016
Contact brucy

Point Rank: # 1,440
Total Points: 539
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 256 | Routes 37 | Areas 7 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 64 | Posts 4 | Stars 96 | Ratings 48
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : Negress Wall
By: brucy When: Jul 13, 2016

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Comments: The Negress Wall while featuring the most compact and least friable rock in the gorge, is also the greasiest and most slippery.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Area : East Cottage Dome : ... : Liposuction (5.11b)
By: brucy When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: The original rating for this climb was actually 11b when it was put up. It was thought to be just a hair harder then Orange Plasma.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : The Coven : ... : Voodoo Highway (5.10c)
By: brucy When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: This route has, as of 5/16, no lowering hardware. If one wishes to do this route, bring quick links or leaver biners. Am curious why so many Goolsby routes are set up like this one w/ no easy or safe way to descend.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Belayer Slayer (5.9)
By: brucy When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: In the almost 6 years of this routes existence, it has in fact cleaned up- with the passage of ascentionists- to the point that it no longer is a "deadly bomb" but is actually quite fun and safe. A 60 meter rope will- on rappel- stretch to the point that the ends are slightly below the 2nd bolt allowing a pretty easy and secure 3rd class descent. As long as one is comfortable with this caveat, it can be done.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : If I Told You I'd Have to K... (5.11a)
By: brucy When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: This climb, as of some 5 years and running, has largely lost a crucial left handhold that used to exist over the roof that allowed the crux move to occur. Like much of the Owens Gorge, this has- with the passage of so much traffic- eroded out. This route now largely requires a fairly stiff dyno to the finishing hold, of some length. Only the most naive con themselves into blithely thinking that the Gorge is "unchanging" from one year to the next- it's not. 11a- not even close!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Gary Gray (5.10b)
By: brucy When: Dec 7, 2015

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Comments: Do take care at clipping the third bolt from eroded holds. More then a couple climbers have paid the price by decking on the ledge below when they've pulled slack to clip and fallen before getting the rope in. Much safer with a long draw preclipped on the bolt.


Location: UT : Saint George : Beaver Dam Road : Beaver Dam Wall
By: brucy When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: Apparently, the word is, that in close to 20 years since these routes were installed...there's never been second ascents on any of climbs there. Wonder if Todd Perkins would have put as much work into the production if he "knew" then that they would be as popular two decades later.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Bloody Tax Break (5.10b)
By: brucy When: Jun 25, 2015

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Comments: All this talk about the "contrived route"- what a joke! Like the first ascensionist purposely "put" the route in the wrong place and some poor put-upon climbers only discover this when they've done the route- after the fact!

Speaking about facts: the route was, in deed, put up in 83' but by Mike Forkash and followed by Steve Gerberding and Jay Goodwin.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Pocket Dance (5.10c)
By: brucy When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: Fun route that would have been a good deal better with a bolt placed low on this rig above the first ledge. One day, someone might very well blow it getting to the now first bolt- since most don't pack large cams to the Gorge- and many won't be calling it such a "classic" anymore either, just stupid, or at least, a stupidly engineered classic sport route that the first ascensionists decided not to pro properly.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Thanks for the Mammaries (5.11a/b)
By: brucy When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: There's a reason why some routes have never been developed in the Gorge: this route is one of them. Arguably one of the flakiest and worst jobs of cleaning- or lack of to be found. It makes one wonder: what were they thinking...or not!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : Road Wave Crag
By: brucy When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: What great fun, and perfect bolt protection!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Russian Meteors (5.12b)
By: brucy When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: Ahhh...this is a 35 "meter" lead, not 35'. Use a 60 meter rope at your peril.
Somewhat run on the easier flakey section in the middle.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : Moonshiner (5.9)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: We did it too- 04/15. Still has only a single bolt anchor. Makes your wonder as to the logic of whoever took the second bolt out and left it for so long with but one!


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: We recently returned from our first visit to Malibu Creek. We did find it both beautiful and- get ready for this- quiet. Figure that out. The camping mid-week (from Sunday afternoon till Friday morning) has maybe 10% occupancy. Low season rates are $35/night + another $12 for any additional vehicle. High season- after March 1st: add another $10/night. Shower tokens are had at the first restroom machine or by the camp host. The state camping website lists a local number that nobody bothers either... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Ship of Fools (5.9)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: The route description says 17 bolts- not.

Tho this is a very fun route, we thought 5.7 not 10b.

First pitch: 8 bolts
Second pitch: 4 bolts


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Equanimity (5.10c)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: We thought the crux were the moves in the middle and not the end.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Technical Knee-Highs (5.11a)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: At present (10/14) this is a two (2) pitch route. We thought the grading to be at most 10c- there being no move on it harder then "maybe" 10b, and that was at the end going to the anchors by staying in the mini-dihedral on the right.

Best recommendation: end the 1st pitch under the roof; do a short 4 bolt crux second pitch; and, finally, do the current last pitch 5.10a 12 bolt, when, a proper two (2) bolt anchor is installed (as of now it features a single Metolius thick han... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Unknown (5.10)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: 1st pitch crux is 10a coming in from the right, or, 10d coming in slightly from the left on small friable crimps (of which we broke a couple).

2nd pitch felt like 10a but was very, very friable and definately not recommended.

60 meter rope worked just fine.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Elizabeth Blue Moss (5.9)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: Run off the last bolt to the anchors. Possible 1/2"-3/4" placement, tho, it really cries out for another bolt to pro the crux.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Harbingers (5.10d)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: Fun crux pitch on buckets out left on the arete.

Can one find any 5.11b? Sure, if one contrivedly traverses over to the right and straddles the last bolt. You'll be rewarded with a long, long reach to a painful crimp. Worth it- not!


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Thieves Karma (5.10d)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: Some route correction(s):

One, the wonderful first pitch is 14 bolts long (not 10), and the rappel is all of 110'- be aware. Yes, there are anchors at the end of this pitch.

Two, the second pitch crux is on bolts 1 and 3, and is ego based sandbagged at 10d- we thought it to be as difficult as 11c- tho 4 thru to the anchor felt like 10d. We recognize that there are areas in the country where it would be entirely appropriate to rate this climb as a 10d- plenty of them- just not here at the Prop... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : The Roofs of Jericho (5.10c)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: We thought the moves on the roof to be more like 11a not 10c in keeping with the ratings on the rest of the wall.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Candy O (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: This route "used" to be merely 11b till the sidepulls up & left of bolt 2 wore down. The route now, almost exclusively, veers way right of the bolt line (depending on how far one goes right defines just how easy one wants to make the route). The central section up to the upper headwall is easy non-demanding climbing, however, at the last three (3) bolts, be ready for a solid spate of highly sequential & technical face.

Some climbers naively feel that routes hold their grades for years, but, at... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Flex Your Bazooka (5.9)
By: brucy When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: A bolt has been added at the beginning to better protect the route.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Numb & Number (5.10a PG13)
By: brucy When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: Route description should be amended to read "...stem up to the 2nd bolt (not 3rd bolt) before casting off onto the face above..." this puts the crux on the bump move getting to the bucket by the 3rd bolt. One can stay on the face from the get go, at the bottom, but it bumps the difficulty rating to 11+ what with the rounded bouldery layaway moves off the initial start ledge- be aware of the deck potential however. There is a move to add an additional bolt at the top to allow a direct ending to t... more >>


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