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Member Since: Apr 13, 2010
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact brucy


Point Rank: # 1,288
Total Points: 493
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 182 | Routes 35 | Areas 7 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 38 | Posts 3 | Stars 77 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
By: brucy When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: Hi! Does anyone have any ideas "where" some of the new walls are at the Holcomb Pinnacle area? rockclimbling.com mentions them but doesn't give any info on where they're located. The ones I'm curious about are: Myst Wall, Peoples Wall, Slack Wall, The Tumbler, A Bigger Boulder, Algier's Wall, Escargot Rock, and, Still Life Wall. For all I know, these are but the tip of the new route iceberg. Please, there must be someone out there with the information on these; help me, I'm running out... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Road Area : Lonesome Bulldog (5.10-)
By: brucy When: Mar 3, 2011

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Comments: We thought the route needlessly run.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Road Area : Texas Duo (5.10)
By: brucy When: Mar 2, 2011

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Comments: No, this route is not clean. What holds remained that we didn't break on the route "look" like they will eventually. And, no, there were seven (7) bolts not nine (9). There was a bolt at the top with a ratty sling, and, another bolt that someone left a short quickdraw. Both ensured massive rope draggage. We replaced those with a long piece of 11 mm rope and a single quick link. Subsequent parties may (and should) wish to supplement this with additional chains or at least another sling/link combo... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Mine Area : Lower Looner Land : Three Bulges and a Baby (5.10c)
By: brucy When: Mar 2, 2011

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Comments: The crux off the 1st bolt is definitely easier if 6' or taller. There exists a new three (3) bolt route just next to Three Bulges. It felt like 11b just after the first bolt. It deserves no stars and is run to the first, after the first and near the top- unnecessarily.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Pocket Puzzle (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Feb 28, 2011

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Comments: We thougth this route to be two (2) letter grades harder then the route to the right even tho they're rated the same. Still in all,
it's one of our favorite warm ups and have been doing it for years.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Euro Dog Valley
By: brucy When: Feb 20, 2011

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Comments: Hey, umm, guys there are sport routes here too- hellloo!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Northern Devils Canyon : Diamond dog
By: brucy When: Feb 19, 2011

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Comments: What's fr 342?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Brush Your Teeth Before You... (5.9 PG13)
By: brucy When: Feb 19, 2011

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Comments: We thought this to be a stupid and old style route. Bolt spacings are bogus and the idea of putting pro in the crack way out left between bolts 4 and 5- is even "more" bogus!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Circle A Wall : Apex Predator (5.11a)
By: brucy When: Apr 28, 2010

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Comments: FA Mike Forkash, Norman Boles (1988)


Location: CA : High Desert : Lucerne Limestone : Main Wall : Main Wall : Tastes Like Chicken (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Apr 27, 2010

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Comments: This would have been a nice route (maybe 3 stars) if the first ascentionist had added a bolt to protect that "committing" move getting to the anchors (which as of 4/10 lacks descent hardware save for 1 carabiner). If one blows the crux or even breaks a hold at top, one will royally screw oneself on the ledge below- ah, ego.


Location: CA : High Desert : Lucerne Limestone : Main Wall : Main Wall : Local Wisdom (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Apr 27, 2010

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Comments: Take care on the bolt off the no hands ledge with regard to falling on to the ledge from above.


Location: CA : High Desert : Lucerne Limestone : Main Wall : Main Wall : On Deck (5.8)
By: brucy When: Apr 27, 2010

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Comments: 4 bolt route with the crux on 4.


Location: CA : High Desert : Lucerne Limestone : Main Wall : Main Wall : Step Up To The Plate (5.11c)
By: brucy When: Apr 27, 2010

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Comments: This route has but 3 bolts with the crux on 3.


Location: CA : High Desert : Lucerne Limestone : Main Wall : Main Wall : Tongue Thai'd (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Apr 27, 2010

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Comments: We thought the idea of traversing to the anchors of the route to the right was bogus- this route should of had an anchor of it's own. The crux down below was not very interesting- merely several insecure moves. Not a very highly recommended route.


Location: CA : High Desert : Lucerne Limestone : Photo
By: brucy When: Apr 26, 2010

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Comments: The PDF topo is very rudimentary (not showing corners or specific rock features). Note, the approach to the Main Wall is not straight above the limestone mine but slightly to the left. The fence around the limestone mine was put up by the BLM as a desert tortoise sanctuary (in reality, it was to take control over the mining claim from the operator who had spurious mining practices). So, the land both on the mine and to both sides of the fence is BLM. The home owners to either side across the roa... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Humpty Dumpty (5.10- PG13)
By: brucy When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: We thought this was dumb to have to bring camming gear on a supposed sport route. Brought much rock down in the process of climbing it (one chunk was easily 10 pounds). If despite hearing this; one should also bring a large-ish cam as well.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Unknown 4 (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: Hanger was missing on one of the lower bolts.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Unknown 3 (5.10-)
By: brucy When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: The best of the moderate routes on this cliff, though it does have lots of loose rock and a wonderful ego-based highball to get to the 1st bolt (in fact you can't even stick clip it if you wanted to). The route description should read that it's 110' long. Well bolted- no;
adequate bolting- barely (given the rock quality). Lastly, take care on pulling ones rope- it can at times get pinched between the rock and the short anchors at top.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Unknown 2 (5.10c)
By: brucy When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: Crux at the bottom. Loose stone, bogus archaic mixed pro, sparse bolting given the rock quality and lack of cleaning, and who's idea was it to have a sport route 130' long? Anchor should have ended at the 100' mark, the upper climbing is scheise. You can swing left and rap down Unknown 3.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Hang 10 (5.11c)
By: brucy When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: Description should read that this is the 4th route one encounters on the old road.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Horny (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: Description should read that this is the "second" route on the old road.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Rack a Ribs (5.10b/c)
By: brucy When: Apr 22, 2010

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Comments: We thought the route would have been better if there was an additional bolt after the third (which would then close up the average spacing of the following bolts as a result).


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Stone's Throw (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Apr 22, 2010

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Comments: An okay route whose starting ledge (as of the big storm in late January of 2010) now sits on the road below. We're talking 5' x 10'.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Sunset Girl (5.12a)
By: brucy When: Apr 22, 2010

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Comments: In it's present condition, this 5 bolt route is at best but one star. The 1st two bolts are fun with the bouldery crux between 2 and 3; but, here's the rub- the route was most likely pink not redpointed on the 1st ascent with prehung draws on 3 and 4. If one attempts to hang their own draw on 3 they will find it not very much fun and much bolder then if a long draw is pre-placed on it allowing essentially a top rope crux. Clipping 4 is totally easy- if you're 6' tall, any less, and you... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Womb with a View (5.11d)
By: brucy When: Apr 22, 2010

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Comments: Thought that the route was bogus with sporty distances between bolts on friable rock. Though aggresive cleaning might have produced a more enjoyable route we admit that it's entirely possible that it's so fundamentally chossy that it's virtually impossible to successfully clean- though that begs the question that if that is true, whether the route should have been put up to begin with. The cams in question for the central portions of the route would be anything from 3/4"- 1 1/2"; while... more >>


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