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Member Since: Apr 13, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact brucy


Point Rank: # 1,279
Total Points: 517
Last Year: 25
Last 30 Days: 10
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 216 | Routes 36 | Areas 7 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 52 | Posts 3 | Stars 85 | Ratings 33
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : Moonshiner (5.9)
By: brucy When: 5 days ago

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Comments: We did it too- 04/15. Still has only a single bolt anchor. Makes your wonder as to the logic of whoever took the second bolt out and left it for so long with but one!


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park
By: brucy When: 5 days ago

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Comments: We recently returned from our first visit to Malibu Creek. We did find it both beautiful and- get ready for this- quiet. Figure that out. The camping mid-week (from Sunday afternoon till Friday morning) has maybe 10% occupancy. Low season rates are $35/night + another $12 for any additional vehicle. High season- after March 1st: add another $10/night. Shower tokens are had at the first restroom machine or by the camp host. The state camping website lists a local number that nobody bothers either... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Ship of Fools (5.10a/b)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: The route description says 17 bolts- not.

Tho this is a very fun route, we thought 5.7 not 10b.

First pitch: 8 bolts
Second pitch: 4 bolts


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Equanimity (5.10b/c)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: We thought the crux were the moves in the middle and not the end.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Technical Knee-Highs (5.11a)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: At present (10/14) this is a two (2) pitch route. We thought the grading to be at most 10c- there being no move on it harder then "maybe" 10b, and that was at the end going to the anchors by staying in the mini-dihedral on the right.

Best recommendation: end the 1st pitch under the roof; do a short 4 bolt crux second pitch; and, finally, do the current last pitch 5.10a 12 bolt, when, a proper two (2) bolt anchor is installed (as of now it features a single Metolius thick han... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Unknown (5.10)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: 1st pitch crux is 10a coming in from the right, or, 10d coming in slightly from the left on small friable crimps (of which we broke a couple).

2nd pitch felt like 10a but was very, very friable and definately not recommended.

60 meter rope worked just fine.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Elizabeth Blue Moss (5.9)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: Run off the last bolt to the anchors. Possible 1/2"-3/4" placement, tho, it really cries out for another bolt to pro the crux.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Harbingers (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: Fun crux pitch on buckets out left on the arete.

Can one find any 5.11b? Sure, if one contrivedly traverses over to the right and straddles the last bolt. You'll be rewarded with a long, long reach to a painful crimp. Worth it- not!


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Thieves Karma (5.10d)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: Some route correction(s):

One, the wonderful first pitch is 14 bolts long (not 10), and the rappel is all of 110'- be aware. Yes, there are anchors at the end of this pitch.

Two, the second pitch crux is on bolts 1 and 3, and is ego based sandbagged at 10d- we thought it to be as difficult as 11c- tho 4 thru to the anchor felt like 10d. We recognize that there are areas in the country where it would be entirely appropriate to rate this climb as a 10d- plenty of them- just not here at the Prop... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : The Roofs of Jericho (5.10c)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: We thought the moves on the roof to be more like 11a not 10c in keeping with the ratings on the rest of the wall.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Candy O (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: This route "used" to be merely 11b till the sidepulls up & left of bolt 2 wore down. The route now, almost exclusively, veers way right of the bolt line (depending on how far one goes right defines just how easy one wants to make the route). The central section up to the upper headwall is easy non-demanding climbing, however, at the last three (3) bolts, be ready for a solid spate of highly sequential & technical face.

Some climbers naively feel that routes hold their grades for years, but, at... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Flex Your Bazooka (5.9)
By: brucy When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: A bolt has been added at the beginning to better protect the route.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Numb & Number (5.10a PG13)
By: brucy When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: Route description should be amended to read "...stem up to the 2nd bolt (not 3rd bolt) before casting off onto the face above..." this puts the crux on the bump move getting to the bucket by the 3rd bolt. One can stay on the face from the get go but it bumps the difficulty rating to 11+ what with the rounded bouldery layaway moves off the initial start ledge- be aware of the deck potential however. There is a move to add an additional bolt at the top to allow a direct ending to the anchors but t... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Worm Drive (5.11a PG13)
By: brucy When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: Crux is 6 bolts up, some 3 bolts off the no hands ledge half way up. One can easily hang the draws and clip the rope thru these three bolts, and, downclimb to the ledge to rest before the crux- giving one essentially top rope pro.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
By: brucy When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: Hi! Does anyone have any ideas "where" some of the new walls are at the Holcomb Pinnacle area? rockclimbling.com mentions them but doesn't give any info on where they're located. The ones I'm curious about are: Myst Wall, Peoples Wall, Slack Wall, The Tumbler, A Bigger Boulder, Algier's Wall, Escargot Rock, and, Still Life Wall. For all I know, these are but the tip of the new route iceberg. Please, there must be someone out there with the information on these; help me, I'm running out... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Road Area : Lonesome Bulldog (5.10-)
By: brucy When: Mar 3, 2011

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Comments: We thought the route needlessly run.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Road Area : Texas Duo (5.10)
By: brucy When: Mar 2, 2011

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Comments: No, this route is not clean. What holds remained that we didn't break on the route "look" like they will eventually. And, no, there were seven (7) bolts not nine (9). There was a bolt at the top with a ratty sling, and, another bolt that someone left a short quickdraw. Both ensured massive rope draggage. We replaced those with a long piece of 11 mm rope and a single quick link. Subsequent parties may (and should) wish to supplement this with additional chains or at least another sling/link combo... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Mine Area : Lower Looner Land : Three Bulges and a Baby (5.10c)
By: brucy When: Mar 2, 2011

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Comments: The crux off the 1st bolt is definitely easier if 6' or taller. There exists a new three (3) bolt route just next to Three Bulges. It felt like 11b just after the first bolt. It deserves no stars and is run to the first, after the first and near the top- unnecessarily.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Pocket Puzzle (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Feb 28, 2011

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Comments: We thougth this route to be two (2) letter grades harder then the route to the right even tho they're rated the same. Still in all,
it's one of our favorite warm ups and have been doing it for years.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Euro Dog Valley
By: brucy When: Feb 20, 2011

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Comments: Hey, umm, guys there are sport routes here too- hellloo!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Northern Devils Canyon : Diamond dog
By: brucy When: Feb 19, 2011

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Comments: What's fr 342?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Brush Your Teeth Before You... (5.9 PG13)
By: brucy When: Feb 19, 2011

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Comments: We thought this to be a stupid and old style route. Bolt spacings are bogus and the idea of putting pro in the crack way out left between bolts 4 and 5- is even "more" bogus!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Circle A Wall : Apex Predator (5.11a)
By: brucy When: Apr 28, 2010

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Comments: FA Mike Forkash, Norman Boles (1988)


Location: CA : High Desert : Lucerne Limestone : Main Wall : Main Wall : Tastes Like Chicken (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Apr 27, 2010

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Comments: This would have been a nice route (maybe 3 stars) if the first ascentionist had added a bolt to protect that "committing" move getting to the anchors (which as of 4/10 lacks descent hardware save for 1 carabiner). If one blows the crux or even breaks a hold at top, one will royally screw oneself on the ledge below- ah, ego.


Location: CA : High Desert : Lucerne Limestone : Main Wall : Main Wall : Local Wisdom (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Apr 27, 2010

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Comments: Take care on the bolt off the no hands ledge with regard to falling on to the ledge from above.


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