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Member Since: Apr 13, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,279
Total Points: 517
Last Year: 25
Last 30 Days: 10
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 216 | Routes 36 | Areas 7 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 52 | Posts 3 | Stars 85 | Ratings 33
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Unknown 2 (5.10c)
By: brucy When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: Crux at the bottom. Loose stone, bogus archaic mixed pro, sparse bolting given the rock quality and lack of cleaning, and who's idea was it to have a sport route 130' long? Anchor should have ended at the 100' mark, the upper climbing is scheise. You can swing left and rap down Unknown 3.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Hang 10 (5.11c)
By: brucy When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: Description should read that this is the 4th route one encounters on the old road.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Horny (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: Description should read that this is the "second" route on the old road.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Rack a Ribs (5.10b/c)
By: brucy When: Apr 22, 2010

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Comments: Nice route with the thin move crux between bolts 2 and 3. Can be made as challenging as one likes: straddling the bolt line the hardest; hooking out left a tiny bit easier. Somewhat sporty, tho despite this, probably the best route on the Old Tunnel area.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Stone's Throw (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Apr 22, 2010

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Comments: An okay route whose starting ledge (as of the big storm in late January of 2010) now sits on the road below. We're talking 5' x 10'.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Sunset Girl (5.12a)
By: brucy When: Apr 22, 2010

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Comments: In it's present condition, this 5 bolt route is at best but one star. The 1st two bolts are fun with the bouldery crux between 2 and 3; but, here's the rub- the route was most likely pink not redpointed on the 1st ascent with prehung draws on 3 and 4. If one attempts to hang their own draw on 3 they will find it not very much fun and much bolder then if a long draw is pre-placed on it allowing essentially a top rope crux. Clipping 4 is totally easy- if you're 6' tall, any less, and you... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Womb with a View (5.11d)
By: brucy When: Apr 22, 2010

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Comments: Thought that the route was bogus with sporty distances between bolts on friable rock. Though aggresive cleaning might have produced a more enjoyable route we admit that it's entirely possible that it's so fundamentally chossy that it's virtually impossible to successfully clean- though that begs the question that if that is true, whether the route should have been put up to begin with. The cams in question for the central portions of the route would be anything from 3/4"- 1 1/2"; while... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : The Soft Parade (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: Well bolted- not! Or at least unless you put add-a-bolts (long slings) on bolts 3,9, and 10. Two cruxes on route (bolts 3 and 8).


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Casting Shadows (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: The crux of this route is off the 2nd bolt. Take care on the mono pockets here- more then one climber has poped finger pulleys there.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : The Mangler (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: A crux that's definitely easier if 6' or taller. We too thought the protection to be ego-based at the start, consequently not "well bolted".


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Diaper Rash (5.10-)
By: brucy When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: Poorly protected given the awful nature of the rock. Rough on the tips.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Flakes of Wrath (5.11a)
By: brucy When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: This is a route that was origionally rated 11a, but never really was. Even before the upper foot ledge broke in January of 2010 it was never easier then 11c, now it feels like 12a. The consequences of falling before the 1st bolt would not be pretty- stick clip it (this would remove the R rating). The climbing to it can be done either 6' left or 6' right at the same difficulty.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Neptune (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: A somwhat fun route that suffers from some ego-based bolting. This can be helped somewhat by bringing some wires and rp's to supplement the bolts,


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Feast and Famine (5.10d)
By: brucy When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: We (my partner and I) thought the route as way more difficult then the guide book states- if one straddles the bolts at the upper crux. Also we thought the protection could have been better placed on the upper crux as well. By chance 2 years after our ascent we overheard a party of two just finishing the route who were mumbling that they thought the route as middle 11 if Public Hanging was 11c and Armed and Dangerous was 11b.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Bombay on the Rocks (5.11c)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: Steep and fun route with big moves over blocks. One caveat however- on the lower, if self-cleaning the draws rather then someone following, the rope saws over sharp edges of the blocks (the first ascentionist neglected to round them) to the extent that I was literally waiting for the rope to part. Recommendation- have someone follow and clean or rap with tension from your belayer and clean.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : My Mom Can Crank (5.12a)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: Wonderful and varied route. Excellent positioning and looks almost impossible from the ground, which probably keeps many off the route, this is unfortunate as this one is great for the feeling of accomplishment.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Little Rig (5.11c)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: When I did the route it had a severely sandbaged rating of 5.11b. The route has seen little "serious" cleaning. Over an hour was spent cleaning a route the author should have done. The consenses from others I've spoken to is at least 5.11d with most comfortable with 5.12a.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Caldera (5.11c)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: Caldera is without a doubt the best route for it's grade in the Owens River Valley. It's varied, the positioning is a wonder, and the first ascentionists did a superb job both bolting and cleaning the route (often neglected in other routes there). Why the guide for that region does not recognize as such sounds political.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Double Exposure (5.11a/b)
By: brucy When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: A route that should never have been. Standard Queen Creek ego-based built-in runout pro (especially on the crux where a nice ledge could easily munch your ankles). Even in its finest moments it's at best blase' climbing. The rock quality is "scheise" and with aggressive cleaning (as in sledges, chisels, and crowbars) could at least been made somewhat safe. One can't depend on subsequent ascent parties to do the cleaning of a route that should have been done beforehand- this is an important respo... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon
By: brucy When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: Queen Creek is an area that suffers from somewhat loose and friable rock (welded tuff/dacite), inconsistent rating (which can be severely sandbagged), painful edges and pockets "volcanic coral", occasionally poor anchors or lack of descending hardware (necessitating dangerous walk-offs vis-a-vis an out of step late 70's/early 80's mentality), and ego-based built-in runout protection (EBR) on rock that is anything but bombproof Yosemite granite. Having an national bouldering contest there resulte... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: A brief comparison between Belay Specs and CU Belay GlassesClimbing Gear ReviewsbrucyMay 11, 2014
re: DIY Belay glassesClimbing Gear DiscussionbrucyJan 17, 2013
re: DIY Belay glassesClimbing Gear DiscussionbrucyJan 17, 2013

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Harbingers 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall

Ride the Wild 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Lower Looner Land

Joe Mamba 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Circle A Wall

Pumpkin 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Attila the Hun Wall

Norman 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Narrows East

Thieves Karma 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall

Apex Predator 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Circle A Wall

Liposuction 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : East Cottage Dome

Schizophrenic Boulevard 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Caldera 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Flavin Haven

Lava Haul 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Flavin Haven

Love In the Ruins 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Hook Wall

Fortune Cookie 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

CA : High Desert : ... : Main Wall

Ancient Chinese Secret 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

CA : High Desert : ... : Main Wall

Technical Knee-Highs 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall

My Mom Can Crank 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : ICBM Tower

Equanimity 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall

The Hangin' Judge 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Claim Jumper Wall

Public Hanging 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Phantom 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Armed and Dangerous 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Ship of Fools 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall

Feast and Famine 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Unknown 3 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Old Tunnel Area

Coal Fire 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : The Titanic

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