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Member Since: Apr 13, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact brucy


Point Rank: # 1,238
Total Points: 493
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has brucy been climbing?










Contributions


All 182 | Routes 35 | Areas 7 | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 38 | Posts 3 | Stars 77 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : My Mom Can Crank (5.12a)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: Wonderful and varied route. Excellent positioning and looks almost impossible from the ground, which probably keeps many off the route, this is unfortunate as this one is great for the feeling of accomplishment.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Little Rig (5.11c)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: When I did the route it had a severely sandbaged rating of 5.11b. The route has seen little "serious" cleaning. Over an hour was spent cleaning a route the author should have done. The consenses from others I've spoken to is at least 5.11d with most comfortable with 5.12a.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Caldera (5.11c)
By: brucy When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: Caldera is without a doubt the best route for it's grade in the Owens River Valley. It's varied, the positioning is a wonder, and the first ascentionists did a superb job both bolting and cleaning the route (often neglected in other routes there). Why the guide for that region does not recognize as such sounds political.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Double Exposure (5.11a/b)
By: brucy When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: A route that should never have been. Standard Queen Creek ego-based built-in runout pro (especially on the crux where a nice ledge could easily munch your ankles). Even in its finest moments it's at best blase' climbing. The rock quality is "scheise" and with aggressive cleaning (as in sledges, chisels, and crowbars) could at least been made somewhat safe. One can't depend on subsequent ascent parties to do the cleaning of a route that should have been done beforehand- this is an important respo... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon
By: brucy When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: Queen Creek is an area that suffers from somewhat loose and friable rock (welded tuff/dacite), inconsistent rating (which can be severely sandbagged), painful edges and pockets "volcanic coral", occasionally poor anchors or lack of descending hardware (necessitating dangerous walk-offs vis-a-vis an out of step late 70's/early 80's mentality), and ego-based built-in runout protection (EBR) on rock that is anything but bombproof Yosemite granite. Having an national bouldering contest there resulte... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: A brief comparison between Belay Specs and CU Belay GlassesClimbing Gear ReviewsbrucyMay 11, 2014
re: DIY Belay glassesClimbing Gear DiscussionbrucyJan 17, 2013
re: DIY Belay glassesClimbing Gear DiscussionbrucyJan 17, 2013

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Schizophrenic Boulevard 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Liposuction 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : East Cottage Dome

Ride the Wild 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Lower Looner Land

Joe Mamba 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Circle A Wall

Apex Predator 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Circle A Wall

Pumpkin 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Attila the Hun Wall

Norman 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Narrows East

Lava Haul 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Flavin Haven

Caldera 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Flavin Haven

Ancient Chinese Secret 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

CA : High Desert : ... : Main Wall

Love In the Ruins 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Hook Wall

Phantom 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Armed and Dangerous 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Public Hanging 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Fortune Cookie 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

CA : High Desert : ... : Main Wall

The Hangin' Judge 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Claim Jumper Wall

My Mom Can Crank 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : ICBM Tower

Feast and Famine 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Hang 10 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Old Tunnel Area

Unknown 3 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Old Tunnel Area

Rack a Ribs 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Old Tunnel Area

Grasping For Straws 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Lower Looner Land

Coal Fire 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : The Titanic

Three Finger Louie 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Lost Boys Wall

Voodoo Child 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Mrs. Beisley's Wall

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