Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Apr 13, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact brucy


Point Rank: # 1,279
Total Points: 517
Last Year: 25
Last 30 Days: 10
10 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has brucy been climbing?










Contributions


All 216 | Routes 36 | Areas 7 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 52 | Posts 3 | Stars 85 | Ratings 33
Page 3 of 9.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Harbingers (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Fun crux pitch on buckets out left on the arete.

Can one find any 5.11b? Sure, if one contrivedly traverses over to the right and straddles the last bolt. You'll be rewarded with a long, long reach to a painful crimp. Worth it- not!


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Thieves Karma (5.10d)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Some route correction(s):

One, the wonderful first pitch is 14 bolts long (not 10), and the rappel is all of 110'- be aware. Yes, there are anchors at the end of this pitch.

Two, the second pitch crux is on bolts 1 and 3, and is ego based sandbagged at 10d- we thought it to be as difficult as 11c- tho 4 thru to the anchor felt like 10d. We recognize that there are areas in the country where it would be entirely appropriate to rate this climb as a 10d- plenty of them- just not here at the Prop... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : The Roofs of Jericho (5.10c)
By: brucy When: Apr 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: We thought the moves on the roof to be more like 11a not 10c in keeping with the ratings on the rest of the wall.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Candy O (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Jan 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route "used" to be merely 11b till the sidepulls up & left of bolt 2 wore down. The route now, almost exclusively, veers way right of the bolt line (depending on how far one goes right defines just how easy one wants to make the route). The central section up to the upper headwall is easy non-demanding climbing, however, at the last three (3) bolts, be ready for a solid spate of highly sequential & technical face.

Some climbers naively feel that routes hold their grades for years, but, at... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Flex Your Bazooka (5.9)
By: brucy When: Jan 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A bolt has been added at the beginning to better protect the route.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Numb & Number (5.10a PG13)
By: brucy When: Jan 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Route description should be amended to read "...stem up to the 2nd bolt (not 3rd bolt) before casting off onto the face above..." this puts the crux on the bump move getting to the bucket by the 3rd bolt. One can stay on the face from the get go but it bumps the difficulty rating to 11+ what with the rounded bouldery layaway moves off the initial start ledge- be aware of the deck potential however. There is a move to add an additional bolt at the top to allow a direct ending to the anchors but t... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Worm Drive (5.11a PG13)
By: brucy When: Jan 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Crux is 6 bolts up, some 3 bolts off the no hands ledge half way up. One can easily hang the draws and clip the rope thru these three bolts, and, downclimb to the ledge to rest before the crux- giving one essentially top rope pro.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
By: brucy When: Apr 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hi! Does anyone have any ideas "where" some of the new walls are at the Holcomb Pinnacle area? rockclimbling.com mentions them but doesn't give any info on where they're located. The ones I'm curious about are: Myst Wall, Peoples Wall, Slack Wall, The Tumbler, A Bigger Boulder, Algier's Wall, Escargot Rock, and, Still Life Wall. For all I know, these are but the tip of the new route iceberg. Please, there must be someone out there with the information on these; help me, I'm running out... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Road Area : Lonesome Bulldog (5.10-)
By: brucy When: Mar 3, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: We thought the route needlessly run.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Road Area : Texas Duo (5.10)
By: brucy When: Mar 2, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: No, this route is not clean. What holds remained that we didn't break on the route "look" like they will eventually. And, no, there were seven (7) bolts not nine (9). There was a bolt at the top with a ratty sling, and, another bolt that someone left a short quickdraw. Both ensured massive rope draggage. We replaced those with a long piece of 11 mm rope and a single quick link. Subsequent parties may (and should) wish to supplement this with additional chains or at least another sling/link combo... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Mine Area : Lower Looner Land : Three Bulges and a Baby (5.10c)
By: brucy When: Mar 2, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The crux off the 1st bolt is definitely easier if 6' or taller. There exists a new three (3) bolt route just next to Three Bulges. It felt like 11b just after the first bolt. It deserves no stars and is run to the first, after the first and near the top- unnecessarily.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Pocket Puzzle (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Feb 28, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: We thougth this route to be two (2) letter grades harder then the route to the right even tho they're rated the same. Still in all,
it's one of our favorite warm ups and have been doing it for years.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Euro Dog Valley
By: brucy When: Feb 20, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Hey, umm, guys there are sport routes here too- hellloo!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Northern Devils Canyon : Diamond dog
By: brucy When: Feb 19, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: What's fr 342?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Brush Your Teeth Before You... (5.9 PG13)
By: brucy When: Feb 19, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: We thought this to be a stupid and old style route. Bolt spacings are bogus and the idea of putting pro in the crack way out left between bolts 4 and 5- is even "more" bogus!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Circle A Wall : Apex Predator (5.11a)
By: brucy When: Apr 28, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: FA Mike Forkash, Norman Boles (1988)


Location: CA : High Desert : Lucerne Limestone : Main Wall : Main Wall : Tastes Like Chicken (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Apr 27, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: This would have been a nice route (maybe 3 stars) if the first ascentionist had added a bolt to protect that "committing" move getting to the anchors (which as of 4/10 lacks descent hardware save for 1 carabiner). If one blows the crux or even breaks a hold at top, one will royally screw oneself on the ledge below- ah, ego.


Location: CA : High Desert : Lucerne Limestone : Main Wall : Main Wall : Local Wisdom (5.10a)
By: brucy When: Apr 27, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Take care on the bolt off the no hands ledge with regard to falling on to the ledge from above.


Location: CA : High Desert : Lucerne Limestone : Main Wall : Main Wall : On Deck (5.8)
By: brucy When: Apr 27, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: 4 bolt route with the crux on 4.


Location: CA : High Desert : Lucerne Limestone : Main Wall : Main Wall : Step Up To The Plate (5.11c)
By: brucy When: Apr 27, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: This route has but 3 bolts with the crux on 3.


Location: CA : High Desert : Lucerne Limestone : Main Wall : Main Wall : Tongue Thai'd (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Apr 27, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: We thought the idea of traversing to the anchors of the route to the right was bogus- this route should of had an anchor of it's own. The crux down below was not very interesting- merely several insecure moves. Not a very highly recommended route.


Location: CA : High Desert : Lucerne Limestone : Photo
By: brucy When: Apr 26, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The PDF topo is very rudimentary (not showing corners or specific rock features). Note, the approach to the Main Wall is not straight above the limestone mine but slightly to the left. The fence around the limestone mine was put up by the BLM as a desert tortoise sanctuary (in reality, it was to take control over the mining claim from the operator who had spurious mining practices). So, the land both on the mine and to both sides of the fence is BLM. The home owners to either side across the roa... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Humpty Dumpty (5.10- PG13)
By: brucy When: Apr 23, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: We thought this was dumb to have to bring camming gear on a supposed sport route. Brought much rock down in the process of climbing it (one chunk was easily 10 pounds). If despite hearing this; one should also bring a large-ish cam as well.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Unknown 4 (5.11b)
By: brucy When: Apr 23, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Hanger was missing on one of the lower bolts.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Old Tunnel Area : Unknown 3 (5.10-)
By: brucy When: Apr 23, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The best of the moderate routes on this cliff, though it does have lots of loose rock and a wonderful ego-based highball to get to the 1st bolt (in fact you can't even stick clip it if you wanted to). The route description should read that it's 110' long. Well bolted- no;
adequate bolting- barely (given the rock quality). Lastly, take care on pulling ones rope- it can at times get pinched between the rock and the short anchors at top.


Page 3 of 9.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!