Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community


Member Since: Apr 13, 2010
Last Visit: Apr 16, 2016
Contact brucy

Point Rank: # 1,408
Total Points: 526
Last Year: 9
Last 30 Days: 2
1 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has brucy been climbing?










Contributions


All 244 | Routes 36 | Areas 7 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 61 | Posts 4 | Stars 93 | Ratings 43
Page 2 of 10.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Glim Glam

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 65'

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Sunburn Crag

Apr 20, 2010

Seamingly Innocent

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 65'

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Sunburn Crag

Apr 20, 2010

Astro Man

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Sunburn Crag

Apr 20, 2010

Turkey Sisters

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Yakov Wall

Apr 19, 2010

Dihedral

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (5)

Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Yakov Wall

Apr 19, 2010

U.S. Senators Are Space Aliens

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 80'

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Apr 18, 2010

Phantom

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (5)

Sport, 1 pitch, 90'

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Apr 17, 2010

Capital Punishment

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 85'

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Apr 17, 2010

Armed and Dangerous

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c (5)

Sport, 1 pitch, 85'

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Apr 16, 2010

Public Hanging

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 (3)

Sport, 1 pitch, 90'

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Atlantis

Apr 16, 2010

Pork Junky

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (3)

Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Yakov Wall

Apr 15, 2010

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Sunday School Wall (Right)

AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon

Feb 28, 2011

The Titanic

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Euro Dog Valley

Feb 26, 2011

Hook Wall

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Euro Dog Valley

Feb 20, 2011

Mrs. Beisley's Wall

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Euro Dog Valley

Feb 20, 2011

Lost Boys Wall

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Euro Dog Valley

Feb 19, 2011

Sunburn Crag

AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon

Apr 20, 2010

Yakov Wall

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Euro Dog Valley

Apr 15, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Belayer Slayer (5.9)
By: brucy When: Apr 13, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: In the almost 6 years of this routes existence, it has in fact cleaned up- with the passage of ascentionists- to the point that it no longer is a "deadly bomb" but is actually quite fun and safe. A 60 meter rope will- on rappel- stretch to the point that the ends are slightly below the 2nd bolt allowing a pretty easy and secure 3rd class descent. As long as one is comfortable with this caveat, it can be done.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : If I Told You I'd Have to K... (5.11a)
By: brucy When: Apr 13, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This climb, as of some 5 years and running, has largely lost a crucial left handhold that used to exist over the roof that allowed the crux move to occur. Like much of the Owens Gorge, this has- with the passage of so much traffic- eroded out. This route now largely requires a fairly stiff dyno to the finishing hold, of some length. Only the most naive con themselves into blithely thinking that the Gorge is "unchanging" from one year to the next- it's not. 11a- not even close!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Gary Gray (5.10b)
By: brucy When: Dec 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Do take care at clipping the third bolt from eroded holds. More then a couple climbers have paid the price by decking on the ledge below when they've pulled slack to clip and fallen before getting the rope in. Much safer with a long draw preclipped on the bolt.


Location: UT : Saint George : Beaver Dam Road : Beaver Dam Wall
By: brucy When: Nov 29, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Apparently, the word is, that in close to 20 years since these routes were installed...there's never been second ascents on any of climbs there. Wonder if Todd Perkins would have put as much work into the production if he "knew" then that they would be as popular two decades later.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Bloody Tax Break (5.10b)
By: brucy When: Jun 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: All this talk about the "contrived route"- what a joke! Like the first ascensionist purposely "put" the route in the wrong place and some poor put-upon climbers only discover this when they've done the route- after the fact!

Speaking about facts: the route was, in deed, put up in 83' but by Mike Forkash and followed by Steve Gerberding and Jay Goodwin.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Pocket Dance (5.10c)
By: brucy When: May 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route that would have been a good deal better with a bolt placed low on this rig above the first ledge. One day, someone might very well blow it getting to the now first bolt- since most don't pack large cams to the Gorge- and many won't be calling it such a "classic" anymore either, just stupid, or at least, a stupidly engineered classic sport route that the first ascensionists decided not to pro properly.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Thanks for the Mammaries (5.11a/b)
By: brucy When: May 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: There's a reason why some routes have never been developed in the Gorge: this route is one of them. Arguably one of the flakiest and worst jobs of cleaning- or lack of to be found. It makes one wonder: what were they thinking...or not!


Page 2 of 10.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!