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Member Since: Jun 17, 2006
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1149 | Routes 15 | Areas 1 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 40 | Posts 5 | Stars 1039 | Ratings 44
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Test Pilots Buttress : Z Crack (5.10d)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: FA was Doug Matthews per Thomas Kelley's 2nd edition guide.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Test Pilots Buttress : Z Crack (5.10d)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Mar 25, 2015

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Comments: I'm not sure who was the first ascensionist for Z Crack, but I am sure it wasn't me and CC. CC and I did the FA of Space Monkeys along with Buddy Price and Jimmy McCarthur. My first trip to the Bald was in 85. We climbed Nuclear Arms, Z-Crack and Shredded Wheat. There were slings for Z Crack on the Laurel then.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Mavericks (5.11+)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: My 5'5" wife found an unchalked wrapper jug up and left of said throw holds. Said the reach felt 11-.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff - Upper Wall : Blue Nude (5.11c/d) : Photo
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: Sorry for the confusion Nathan. That was just a tongue and cheek reference to the artist Henri Matisse who painted Blue Nude.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff - Upper Wall : Stiff Upper Lip (5.11+)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: It was Karl Lail with me on the original FA.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Irish Jig (5.10d)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Feb 4, 2015

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Comments: This route can be done in one pitch with a 60m rope which is how I led it on the FA.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Left Field : Knuckle Balls (5.10b/c PG13) : Photo
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Looks like you climbed a new route. KnuckleBalls climbs the orange streaked section further right. I just looked at the topo in the new RB guide and can see how you climbed your new route instead. KB does end at the same tree.

See the topo here for more details.
mountainproject.com/images/81/...


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Left Field : Huffin Cedar (5.10a PG13)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Correct. The route to the left of the flake is Huffin. That flake and face above is a really good toprope problem too! There are a few errors in the new guide book.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Left Field : Huffin Cedar (5.10a PG13) : Photo
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Right. The flake is a cool top-rope problem. Huffin follows bomber cracks and bolt protected face moves out left then back right.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Parachute Woman (5.10d)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Jan 8, 2015

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Comments: I've led this one a couple of times back in the day. Getting established on this route is pretty heady but double ropes really help. Once you're into to the good gear the climbing is as good as Dinkus only harder. Not as difficult as Ciaos though.


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Crash Position (5.9)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this for the first time and found that if you take your time and find the gear, it's more like PG13. Here's some gear beta that may help if the routes reputation has kept you attempting it. Obvious gear and good stances get you up into the crack. You can girth hitch the horn and properly done this thing is bomber. After the next move is a large stopper/tricam or offset cam, then a shallow but bomber .75 BD goes in the first horizontal above the crack. You can also get a #1 next ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Bear Creek Spire : North Arete (5.8)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: Great alpine rock route with an amazing summit! Climbed it August 8, 2014. El Nino conditions meant storms were gonna happen by 4pm or sooner. Started hiking from Mosquito Flats at 4am, simul-climbed the route with a 30m rope and tagged the summit at 10:30. Probably could have done better on time, but briefly got off trail briefly gem lakes. Carried a single set of cams .3 to 3 and med - large stoppers. Doubles on #1, #2 & #3 would have allowed longer blocks, but it worke... more >>


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Sea Wolf (5.8 R)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Feb 7, 2014

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Comments: Thomas Kelley FFAed this route drilling all the bolts from stances with his Bosch. I only held the rope.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : East Face/Guides Wall (Lef... : Nonlinear Equation (5.11b/c PG13)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: It's nice to have a low ball nut (2nd to smallest size) for the thin horizontal just below the anchor.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Hidden Wall : Hidden Agenda (5.11a)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: On the 2nd pitch, the first tricam is a brown just up and right of the belay. Placement orientation is crucial. The tip down and rails up. Another 15ft up is a #2 or maybe 2.5 place in the same orientation.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Hidden Wall : Carboman (5.10c/d PG13)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: I replaced all the 2nd pitch bolts and 3rd pitch anchors bolts in 2011. You can now rap from the top of the 3rd in two ~55m raps. Didn't have the right tools for pulling out the old bolts that day, so some of the old mank is still there. The third pitch follows a nice feature and takes a handful of tiny units in and right of the groove as well as several #1-#3 cam placements left of the groove higher up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: The mega clasic Bacher[Yerian, like many other testpieces across the nation is also a "dangerous endeavor". However, out of respect for the FA party, no one has retro-bolted the route, and it stands as a testimony of Bacher's abilities and a goal for many to test their skills. For those who can climb the route, it's a major accomplishment that will stay with you the rest of your life. You won't get that sensation with a fun clip-up. I'd wager, that Thom Byrne put a lot of heart and soul into ... more >>


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Test Pilots Buttress : Rocket Science (5.10c PG13)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Mar 2, 2013

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Comments: Replacing these 20 year old bolts with some re-engineering had been on my to-do list for too long, so today the job got done. There are now three SS bolts with optional gear between the 2nd and 3rd. Mandatory gear placements ensue above where the climb merges with Copilots.

If you don't want to stick clip, a #4 Cam goes nicely in the first big slot. Not P/G rated anymore.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Central Boulders : Slash And Burn Boulder : Bruces's Problem (V5)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Mar 2, 2013

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Comments: Ah ha. Proof that I can (or could) climb v5. :) I remember that day well. I had just climbed Whipping Boy on Whitesides the day before. Pascal Robert, Kris Kline and I decided to go bouldering that day. KK climbed a nice one (maybe v2/3) to the top just left of 'my' problem and Pascal almost sent a much harder problem just to the right. He came back the next weekend and it went down. It must have been close to V8. This was before anyone was manufacturing crash pads, but I had a very small ... more >>


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Hanging Chain : Spiders & Snakes (5.12c)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Jan 6, 2013

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Comments: I start way left at a crack and gun for it. Haven't done the direct start, but if I did, I'd just stick clip the 2nd bolt.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Left Field : Who's on First (5.11a)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Jan 2, 2013

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Comments: The route over all is a great multi-pitch addition to the area. I'd have to say 2nd pitch is the best, more engaging and cerebral. The 3rd pitch is just a clip up on friable edges similar to 7 year itch. I left some fixed gear at the 2nd belay and rapped the route with a single 70m.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Hanging Chain : Sly Truths (5.10c/d)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Dec 31, 2012

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Comments: Excellent pitch. Spry Look's mini me. :)

I got a green/yellow alien above the roof.


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : The Legendary "F" Bomb (5.11)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Dec 31, 2012

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Comments: This should help clarify some of the previous comments. After hearing all the great reviews from the FA party boasting about great gear and amazing holds, I led the 5.11 crux pitch with Tim Synder (Gneiss Pirate) with no falls. I didn't climb it as a continuous pitch though. Just below the last bolt, I fiddled with a worthless stopper and down-climbed back to a no-hands stance to built a natural gear belay. Finishing the rest of that pitch felt much better without the weight of 120' of rope sc... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Out To Lunch (5.10d)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Dec 8, 2012

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Comments: Have to agree with SScoff. 10d is sandbag if you're going to the top. It's been a few years since I did it, but the 3rd pitch is solid 5.11.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Seal (5.10a)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: It's not necessary, but you can get a big piece in the right end of the big slot if you want a more directly overhead piece during the crux. It's also a good directional for the second especially if you think they may whip on that move. That undercling always feel super slick and somewhat desperate to me. Fortunately my wife can walk the dog that pitch, so I rarely have to lead it :)


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