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Member Since: Jun 17, 2006
Last Visit: Aug 23, 2014
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Total Points: 211
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 430 | Routes 15 | Areas 1 | Photos 3 | Page Improvments | Comments 31 | Posts 4 | Stars 343 | Ratings 33
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : Bear Creek Spire : North Arete (5.8)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: Great alpine rock route with an amazing summit! Climbed it August 8, 2014. El Nino conditions meant storms were gonna happen by 4pm or sooner. Started hiking from Mosquito Flats at 4am, simul-climbed the route with a 30m rope and tagged the summit at 10:30. Probably could have done better on time, but briefly got off trail briefly gem lakes. Carried a single set of cams .3 to 3 and med - large stoppers. Doubles on #1, #2 & #3 would have allowed longer blocks, but it worke... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Photo
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Feb 7, 2014

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Comments: Barney got stoned. P^)


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Sea Wolf (5.8 R)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Feb 7, 2014

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Comments: Thomas Kelley FFAed this route drilling all the bolts from stances with his Bosch. I only held the rope.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : East Face/Guides Wall (Lef... : Nonlinear Equation (5.11b/c PG13)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: It's nice to have a low ball nut (2nd to smallest size) for the thin horizontal just below the anchor.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Hidden Wall : Hidden Agenda (5.11a)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: On the 2nd pitch, the first tricam is a brown just up and right of the belay. Placement orientation is crucial. The tip down and rails up. Another 15ft up is a #2 or maybe 2.5 place in the same orientation.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Hidden Wall : Carboman (5.10c/d PG13)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: I replaced all the 2nd pitch bolts and 3rd pitch anchors bolts in 2011. You can now rap from the top of the 3rd in two ~55m raps. Didn't have the right tools for pulling out the old bolts that day, so some of the old mank is still there. The third pitch follows a nice feature and takes a handful of tiny units in and right of the groove as well as several #1-#3 cam placements left of the groove higher up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: The mega clasic Bacher[Yerian, like many other testpieces across the nation is also a "dangerous endeavor". However, out of respect for the FA party, no one has retro-bolted the route, and it stands as a testimony of Bacher's abilities and a goal for many to test their skills. For those who can climb the route, it's a major accomplishment that will stay with you the rest of your life. You won't get that sensation with a fun clip-up. I'd wager, that Thom Byrne put a lot of heart and soul into ... more >>


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Test Pilots Buttress : Rocket Science (5.10c PG13)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Mar 2, 2013

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Comments: Replacing these 20 year old bolts with some re-engineering had been on my to-do list for too long, so today the job got done. There are now three SS bolts with optional gear between the 2nd and 3rd. Mandatory gear placements ensue above where the climb merges with Copilots.

If you don't want to stick clip, a #4 Cam goes nicely in the first big slot. Not P/G rated anymore.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Central Boulders : Slash And Burn Boulder : Bruces's Problem (V5)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Mar 2, 2013

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Comments: Ah ha. Proof that I can (or could) climb v5. :) I remember that day well. I had just climbed Whipping Boy on Whitesides the day before. Pascal Robert, Kris Kline and I decided to go bouldering that day. KK climbed a nice one (maybe v2/3) to the top just left of 'my' problem and Pascal almost sent a much harder problem just to the right. He came back the next weekend and it went down. It must have been close to V8. This was before anyone was manufacturing crash pads, but I had a very small ... more >>


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Hanging Chain : Spiders & Snakes (5.12c)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Jan 6, 2013

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Comments: I start way left at a crack and gun for it. Haven't done the direct start, but if I did, I'd just stick clip the 2nd bolt.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Left Field : Who's on First (5.11a)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Jan 2, 2013

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Comments: The route over all is a great multi-pitch addition to the area. I'd have to say 2nd pitch is the best, more engaging and cerebral. The 3rd pitch is just a clip up on friable edges similar to 7 year itch. I left some fixed gear at the 2nd belay and rapped the route with a single 70m.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Hanging Chain : Spiders & Snakes (5.12c)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Dec 31, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this again for the first time in a good while. Holy Smokes! I admit. I'm biased, but damned if this isn't the one of most amazing free climbable slices of stone in NC. The route ain't mine, it's the earth's. I just drilled the bolts (with a lot of help and coaching from my mentor Chris Caldwell).


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Hanging Chain : Sly Truths (5.10c/d)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Dec 31, 2012

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Comments: Excellent pitch. Spry Look's mini me. :)

I got a green/yellow alien above the roof.


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : The Legendary "F" Bomb (5.11)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Dec 31, 2012

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Comments: This should help clarify some of the previous comments. After hearing all the great reviews from the FA party boasting about great gear and amazing holds, I led the 5.11 crux pitch with Tim Synder (Gneiss Pirate) with no falls. I didn't climb it as a continuous pitch though. Just below the last bolt, I fiddled with a worthless stopper and down-climbed back to a no-hands stance to built a natural gear belay. Finishing the rest of that pitch felt much better without the weight of 120' of rope sc... more >>


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Out To Lunch (5.10d)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Dec 8, 2012

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Comments: Have to agree with SScoff. 10d is sandbag if you're going to the top. It's been a few years since I did it, but the 3rd pitch is solid 5.11.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Seal (5.10a)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: It's not necessary, but you can get a big piece in the right end of the big slot if you want a more directly overhead piece during the crux. It's also a good directional for the second especially if you think they may whip on that move. That undercling always feel super slick and somewhat desperate to me. Fortunately my wife can walk the dog that pitch, so I rarely have to lead it :)


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Safari Jive Direct (5.11c PG13)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: Kris Kline's original version required double ropes and climbed as described to just below the bolt. From there you traverse hard right for about 10' the fire up some steep edges in a short leaning corner to gain the horizontal to move back left to gain the splitter crack through the bulge.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Ride the Lightning (5.12c)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: This is one badass, high quality pitch. Be prepared for intense variety. No brass necessary. Single run of cams tiny C3 to #2 C4 plus a small stopper after the first bolt.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Predator (5.12+)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: All bolts and hangers have been replaced with hilti SS304 bolts and stainless steel hangers. The groove is often running water and those old petzl self-drives and carbon steel wedge anchors were horrendously corroded.


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Stemming Laurel (5.10+)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Finally got to climb the 4th ptich last Saturday. Fantastic route! I agree with Tommy about the crux pitch, 5.10++. The 2nd and 3rd bolts are hard to clip. I'm not tall but I was glad I wasn't any shorter.

I really like variety of moves on the 2nd pitch and found it's the one with the most pro and far from runout. Here's the gear I got pretty much equally spaced throughout the pitch: .4 C4, #4 C4 in horizontal ant next stance, #1 C4, #1 C3, yellow alien, 12 or 13 BD stopp... more >>


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Nana's Bananas (5.11+)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Mar 20, 2011

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Comments: I've only climbed the first pitch of this route which can be done craggin style with a single 60m. This pitch is high in aesthetics and grin factor. I'd rate it up there as one of the best 5.11 pitches in the state. Look forward to getting back and climbing the whole route.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Inner Peace (5.11a/b PG13)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Dec 21, 2010

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Comments: This is a classic in my book. A must do for anyone interested in harder gear routes.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Titties & Beer (aka "World... (5.9)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Jul 4, 2009

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Comments: Climbed T&B for like the 20th time yesterday. It's still good. The mainline rappel is definitely the way to get off especially if you hike in from the Nose area. Leave you approach shoes and pack at the base of Mainline/Aerospace. Here's how to find the Mainline rappel stations. Once you're in the 4th pitch water groove, follow it for about 300 ft (either belay or 4th class). Keep your eye out for first massive tree island on the left. Traverse below the tree island to gain the left end. There... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Middle Hawksbill : No Free Lunch (5.10c/d)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Apr 29, 2009

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Comments: This is an excellent route and linkup with the 11a sport pitch. The actual FA of the route was done by Thomas Kelly and Pascal Robert around 1990. Tim and Dan climbed it years later thinking it was a FA. The original first pitch has a lone bolt 50ft up and left of the 5.9 warmup sport route. It starts on a series of jugs left of the dirty corner. They belayed on natural gear near one of the double bolt sport route anchors. Maybe Pascal will tell us the real name for this pitch.


Location: NC : Closed : The Dark Side : Desperado Wall : Metal Meltdown (5.11b)
By: BruceBurgessNC When: Apr 5, 2009

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Comments: Nice long, interesting route. The first pitch has great variety and personally feels harder than Brain Damage. I would call it 11b anyday.


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