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Member Since: Apr 12, 2011
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 4,386
Total Points: 120
Last Year: 56
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has BruceB been climbing?










Contributions


All 523 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 60 | Posts 5 | Stars 322 | Ratings 131
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Unknown Off Width

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (3)

Trad, 60'

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : 1st Tier

May 5, 2014

Felsic

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (16)

Sport, 1 pitch, 160'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Dozier Dome

Aug 24, 2012

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Tight, even for a skinny lad like me!

Tight, even for a skinny lad like me!

CA : High Sierra : ... : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)

Jul 28, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset

Sunset

CA : High Sierra : ... : Incredible Hulk

Jul 28, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Felsic stays just right of the dike

Felsic stays just right of the dike

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Felsic (5.9)

Aug 24, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : Iron Butte
By: BruceB When: Nov 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Good place in the winter. As long as there's no wind it gets toasty in the sun. Gets sun after about 11:30, chilly before that!

Easy hike up, don't see the need for good hiking boots and a light pack - nothing like Woodfords north side!.

This is a fun place to hit once a year for Reno/Carson locals.


Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : Iron Butte : Rolling Crow (5.10b)
By: BruceB When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Two good bolts but no chains. There was good but not great webbing and a quick link on them Nov 2015. Whoever is next should consider putting up new webbing or better yet adding chains.


Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : Iron Butte : Grip Master (5.10b)
By: BruceB When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Fun. Slopey small friction holds for hands and feet. The 10b line goes to the right of the bolts. Have Tr'd it and gone left of the bolts, that's more 10+. Mussey hooks on chains.


Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : Iron Butte : The Wall (5.9)
By: BruceB When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: The anchors have monster chains. Fine for rapping off.


Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : Iron Butte : Baboon Safari (5.10c/d)
By: BruceB When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: Fun climb, but I guess I took the easy way. The way I did it was 9+/10a.

I didn't go directly under the roof, because it's covered in bird shit, the initial rock quality is not so great, and the natural line trends to the right up some blocks. And it was fun that way. It still leads to the finger crack and then the hand crack that is so appealing from the ground.
The description says the crux is up high, so I didn't think I was missing out on the crux either. But, while the finger and hand crac... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Crystal Springs Canyon : ... : Left Branch (5.10a)
By: BruceB When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: There are anchors and chains at the top.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Crystal Springs Canyon : ... : Nevada/Utah Border (5.10)
By: BruceB When: Nov 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great route, It's a shame caughtinside had such a bad time on it.

Yes, it's definitely sandbagged. I would put the crux move at about 10d (as an onsight). The moves are sequencey and strenuous. But the pro is excellent.

It's a short route. There are chains part way up the upper slab, so no 3rd class over loose rubble.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Central Wall : Eagle Buttress, Right Side (5.9)
By: BruceB When: Sep 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a real hidden gem (I guess mostly because of the nesting closures).
Had no trouble doing this in 4 pitches, we combined the last two 4th class pitches.

Supertopo calls P2 5.9 and P3 5.10a. I disagree, I think P2 is 10a/b and P3 is 5.9.

The P2 overhanging hand traverse followed by the roof and dyke hiking is committing and strenuous, and amazingly fun. Fantastic exposure. And the start to this pitch is pretty tough too, definitely lasso the knob for pro.

Found 3 pins on the route, all ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : West Wall : The Gamoke (5.10b)
By: BruceB When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Pitch 2 is super fun. I think better than HC. It's more varied, more committing, overhung for a bit, and requires more technical finger jams and stemming. All for just a letter grade more!
Doubles from small finger to #3 worked great. A #4 was useful for the top section, although probably not essential.

We climbed to P2 via the first pitch of Anesthesia, which is reasonably fun although the first bolt is way up there - just as the climbing turns from 5.low to 5.7(ish). There's some ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Gong Show Wall : Wages of Skin (5.10+)
By: BruceB When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic route, and pro's well thru the crux.
I have to agree with Neil that this is probably 11a, or at least 10d. That is if you rate a route as an On Sight. There may be a 10c trick to it, but the chances of finding it first time through is pretty low.
Go for it!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : Boi-oi-oi-ing! (5.10a)
By: BruceB When: Aug 7, 2015

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Comments: Amazingly good climb, hand jamming ad finitum, although a little tight at times!
Four #1's work great, although other options work too.

3 raps straight down the outer face of the pillar (doesn't use the P1 anchor).


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Tenaya Lake : Mountaineer's Dome : American Wet Dream (5.10b R)
By: BruceB When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Adventurous route that will test mid 5.10 leaders - it did me!

Metolius 00/0 offset fits perfectly above the bolt on P4. IMHO it's quite a bit harder than 5.7 until the next good gear!

The 10b corner move felt easy compared to the finger tip corner of P2 and the finger tip layback of P3. Both protect well, but getting in gear definitely adds to the strenuous factor.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Three Hour Buttress : Three Hour Arete (5.10c)
By: BruceB When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: Really fun route. For me the pitch ratings felt; 5.9, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10b.
TR'd Hallpass, very good, but would be a bit spooky to lead the traverse over the roof.
Also TR'd Strikeslip P3 and P1 on the way down. P3 would make a good alternative to Three Hour Arete P3, but P1 felt a bit contrived.
Had the whole arete to ourselves but counted 20 vehicles in the Sheelite canyon parking area!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Quail Trail (5.10b)
By: BruceB When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: Great first pitch, but agree with Shibby, last bolt on P1 is too far to the right to comfortably clip, unless you wait until it's at waist level.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Donner Pass Road : ... : Hungover Hangover (5.10a)
By: BruceB When: May 1, 2015

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Comments: Short and stout. And with tape, fun too.
The exit from the pod is a little awkward but the whole pitch takes great pro.

Did pitch 2 by going up the big corner and then cracks on the right face. Kinda dirty and vegetated in places. Nothing special but not terrible either. I don't think it sees much traffic. Next time I'll probably rap the 10a pitch then continue over to Touch and Go or Bourbon Street for a more satisfying finish.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7)
By: BruceB When: May 1, 2015

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Comments: Such a fun route. We had it to ourselves which was a huge improvement compared to the clusterf**k on Birdland the day before. And more adventurous too.
The last pitch is a total blast, a bit of all sorts with great exposure. There is good pro, you just need to be creative. Definitely not X or R, even PG is stretching it.
Easy hike off.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Slackjaw (5.10a)
By: BruceB When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: Leading up to the roof is easy enough, but the finish sure gets your attention.
It's a bit sequencey, although depending on your strengths I think there's different ways to tackle it. Initially I tried just the crack to finish and that's waaay hard!
It's very well protected so it's a fun challenge.
Technically it may be 5.10a, but as on onsight it's closer to 5.10b


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Silence of the Poodles (5.8)
By: BruceB When: Apr 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Fun hand crack with a little face, solid 5.8.
Bring the rack for this and a bunch of trad stuff at the Dihedrals. Clean rock and nice splitters.
If this was in Yosemite it would be granite.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome : Gemini Cracks (5.8)
By: BruceB When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: I've approached this route both by going around the toe and also by doing the direct start. I'd say the latter is just as quick, less scrambling up dirty gullies, and it's a more direct rappel back to your packs. Plus you'll get an extra pitch of climbing. There are 5 bolts on the direct start slab, plus some pro options to reduce the runout. Lana is spot on with how to find the start.

Official Pitch #1 will be the crux unless you have huge mitts and can fist jam the offwidth. Otherwise i... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Shark's Fin : Coral Sea Adventure (5.8)
By: BruceB When: Mar 31, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I don't know what the start was like before, but it's definitely not 5.7/8 now. I'd say somewhere in the 5.9+/5.10 range. And by the time you get to a safe stance the first bolt is chest level. Good climb.


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