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Member Since: Apr 12, 2011
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact BruceB

Point Rank: # 4,503
Total Points: 122
Last Year: 51
Last 30 Days: 2
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has BruceB been climbing?










Contributions


All 561 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 62 | Posts 5 | Stars 348 | Ratings 136
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Unknown Off Width

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (4)

Trad, 60'

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : 1st Tier

May 5, 2014

Felsic

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (16)

Sport, 1 pitch, 160'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Dozier Dome

Aug 24, 2012

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: chaos 5

chaos 5

Mar 21, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: chaos 4

chaos 4

Mar 21, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: chaos 3

chaos 3

Mar 21, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: chaos 2

chaos 2

Mar 21, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: chaos 1

chaos 1

Mar 21, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Tight, even for a skinny lad like me!

Tight, even for a skinny lad like me!

CA : High Sierra : ... : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)

Jul 28, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset

Sunset

CA : High Sierra : ... : Incredible Hulk

Jul 28, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Felsic stays just right of the dike

Felsic stays just right of the dike

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Felsic (5.9)

Aug 24, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Mayfly (5.10a)
By: BruceB When: May 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Kudos to anyone putting up routes, and I'm not thrilled about writing messages at the base of climbs (it's still there after a year).
But.. what I would say about this route is that the message should probably have read "Bad bolting technique". Two of the bolts are not perpendicular to the rock, such that the bolt heads are at an angle to the hangers and only press onto the hangers in one small spot, with lots of fresh air under most of the head. And another hanger is placed over a groove in the... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Cat in the Hat (5.8)
By: BruceB When: May 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: There are 7 bolts on this climb. Three of them look brand new. One before the original four (where a cam was previously required), and two at the end over very easy terrain to the anchors.
Fun climb.


Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : Iron Butte
By: BruceB When: Nov 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Good place in the winter. As long as there's no wind it gets toasty in the sun. Gets sun after about 11:30, chilly before that!

Easy hike up, don't see the need for good hiking boots and a light pack - nothing like Woodfords north side!.

This is a fun place to hit once a year for Reno/Carson locals.


Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : Iron Butte : Rolling Crow (5.10b)
By: BruceB When: Nov 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Two good bolts but no chains. There was good but not great webbing and a quick link on them Nov 2015. Whoever is next should consider putting up new webbing or better yet adding chains.


Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : Iron Butte : Grip Master (5.10b)
By: BruceB When: Nov 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Fun. Slopey small friction holds for hands and feet. The 10b line goes to the right of the bolts. Have Tr'd it and gone left of the bolts, that's more 10+. Mussey hooks on chains.


Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : Iron Butte : The Wall (5.9)
By: BruceB When: Nov 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The anchors have monster chains. Fine for rapping off.


Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : Iron Butte : Baboon Safari (5.10c/d)
By: BruceB When: Nov 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Fun climb, but I guess I took the easy way. The way I did it was 9+/10a.

I didn't go directly under the roof, because it's covered in bird shit, the initial rock quality is not so great, and the natural line trends to the right up some blocks. And it was fun that way. It still leads to the finger crack and then the hand crack that is so appealing from the ground.
The description says the crux is up high, so I didn't think I was missing out on the crux either. But, while the finger and hand crac... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Crystal Springs Canyon : ... : Left Branch (5.10a)
By: BruceB When: Nov 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: There are anchors and chains at the top.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Crystal Springs Canyon : ... : Nevada/Utah Border (5.10)
By: BruceB When: Nov 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great route, It's a shame caughtinside had such a bad time on it.

Yes, it's definitely sandbagged. I would put the crux move at about 10d (as an onsight). The moves are sequencey and strenuous. But the pro is excellent.

It's a short route. There are chains part way up the upper slab, so no 3rd class over loose rubble.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Central Wall : Eagle Buttress, Right Side (5.9)
By: BruceB When: Sep 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a real hidden gem (I guess mostly because of the nesting closures).
Had no trouble doing this in 4 pitches, we combined the last two 4th class pitches.

Supertopo calls P2 5.9 and P3 5.10a. I disagree, I think P2 is 10a/b and P3 is 5.9.

The P2 overhanging hand traverse followed by the roof and dyke hiking is committing and strenuous, and amazingly fun. Fantastic exposure. And the start to this pitch is pretty tough too, definitely lasso the knob for pro.

Found 3 pins on the route, all ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : West Wall : The Gamoke (5.10b)
By: BruceB When: Aug 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Pitch 2 is super fun. I think better than HC. It's more varied, more committing, overhung for a bit, and requires more technical finger jams and stemming. All for just a letter grade more!
Doubles from small finger to #3 worked great. A #4 was useful for the top section, although probably not essential.

We climbed to P2 via the first pitch of Anesthesia, which is reasonably fun although the first bolt is way up there - just as the climbing turns from 5.low to 5.7(ish). There's some ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Gong Show Wall : Wages of Skin (5.10+)
By: BruceB When: Aug 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Fantastic route, and pro's well thru the crux.
I have to agree with Neil that this is probably 11a, or at least 10d. That is if you rate a route as an On Sight. There may be a 10c trick to it, but the chances of finding it first time through is pretty low.
Go for it!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : Boi-oi-oi-ing! (5.10a)
By: BruceB When: Aug 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Amazingly good climb, hand jamming ad finitum, although a little tight at times!
Four #1's work great, although other options work too.

3 raps straight down the outer face of the pillar (doesn't use the P1 anchor).


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Tenaya Lake : Mountaineer's Dome : American Wet Dream (5.10b R)
By: BruceB When: Jul 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Adventurous route that will test mid 5.10 leaders - it did me!

Metolius 00/0 offset fits perfectly above the bolt on P4. IMHO it's quite a bit harder than 5.7 until the next good gear!

The 10b corner move felt easy compared to the finger tip corner of P2 and the finger tip layback of P3. Both protect well, but getting in gear definitely adds to the strenuous factor.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Three Hour Buttress : Three Hour Arete (5.10b/c)
By: BruceB When: Jun 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Really fun route. For me the pitch ratings felt; 5.9, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10b.
TR'd Hallpass, very good, but would be a bit spooky to lead the traverse over the roof.
Also TR'd Strikeslip P3 and P1 on the way down. P3 would make a good alternative to Three Hour Arete P3, but P1 felt a bit contrived.
Had the whole arete to ourselves but counted 20 vehicles in the Sheelite canyon parking area!


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