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Member Since: Apr 12, 2011
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact BruceB

Point Rank: # 4,539
Total Points: 127
Last Year: 41
Last 30 Days: 1
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 617 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 67 | Posts 11 | Stars 384 | Ratings 145
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Unknown Off Width

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (4)

Trad, 60'

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : 1st Tier

May 5, 2014

Felsic

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (20)

Sport, 1 pitch, 160'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Dozier Dome

Aug 24, 2012

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: chaos 5

chaos 5

Mar 21, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: chaos 4

chaos 4

Mar 21, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: chaos 3

chaos 3

Mar 21, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: chaos 2

chaos 2

Mar 21, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: chaos 1

chaos 1

Mar 21, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Tight, even for a skinny lad like me!

Tight, even for a skinny lad like me!

CA : High Sierra : ... : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)

Jul 28, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset

Sunset

CA : High Sierra : ... : Incredible Hulk

Jul 28, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Felsic stays just right of the dike

Felsic stays just right of the dike

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Felsic (5.9)

Aug 24, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Mitigate (5.7)
By: BruceB When: Aug 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route with some nice moves.
There are bolted anchors and chains at the top of P2 (to the right). You can rappel to the chains at the top of Anxiety attack, then another rappel to the base of the climb. A 70m rope just reaches the first rap, a 60m will require a bit of 3rd class down climbing.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : River Rock : Summer Session (5.9)
By: BruceB When: Jul 7, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Hopefully this will clean up to be a great (3 star) route. It's nice to have a 5.9 route at this crag.
The initial crack goes from beautiful finger locks to nice hand jams. This section can also be bypassed on easier ground in the corner crack. The middle face section is very crumbly right now. It's possible to get good crimps but the feet tend to skate off the face. I think this will clean up to be more secure with more traffic. On top rope it'@S... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Slowdancer (5.9)
By: BruceB When: Jun 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is a really fun route, especially with the Penny Candy linkup.
It would make a nice lead except for the very sketchy and dangerous start. And judging by only one "lead" in the Tick list I don't think I'm the only one who thinks this.

I'll probably get flak for saying this, but as the route already has 2 bolts, adding a third bolt right by the boldery start does not seem to me to be out of order. Yes, you can get a piece of gear in there, but it's not a great placement and it's also where a... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Labor of Love (5.10b PG13)
By: BruceB When: Jun 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Really good route. At 6' tall I was just able to make the long reach - Just!.
For the most part it's well protected and nicely bolted, the only downside is the placement of the first and last bolts. The first bolt could have been 4' lower at the end of the 5.7 dyke hike, rather than just past a 5.9/10a move. And I thought the last bolt was way scary. It's right after a very delicate balancy move 12-15' above the previous bolt. It would not be a pleasant fall!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Over Easy (5.7)
By: BruceB When: Jun 3, 2016

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Comments: There is a newish a set of anchors at the top of this climb. Just below and in the center of the roof. The are hard to see from the ground.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Mayfly (5.10a)
By: BruceB When: May 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Kudos to anyone putting up routes, and I'm not thrilled about writing messages at the base of climbs (it's still there after a year).
But.. what I would say about this route is that the message should probably have read "Bad bolting technique". Two of the bolts are not perpendicular to the rock, such that the bolt heads are at an angle to the hangers and only press onto the hangers in one small spot, with lots of fresh air under most of the head. And another hanger is placed over a groove in the... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Cat in the Hat (5.8)
By: BruceB When: May 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: There are 7 bolts on this climb. Three of them look brand new. One before the original four (where a cam was previously required), and two at the end over very easy terrain to the anchors.
Fun climb.


Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : Iron Butte
By: BruceB When: Nov 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Good place in the winter. As long as there's no wind it gets toasty in the sun. Gets sun after about 11:30, chilly before that!

Easy hike up, don't see the need for good hiking boots and a light pack - nothing like Woodfords north side!.

This is a fun place to hit once a year for Reno/Carson locals.


Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : Iron Butte : Rolling Crow (5.10b)
By: BruceB When: Nov 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Two good bolts but no chains. There was good but not great webbing and a quick link on them Nov 2015. Whoever is next should consider putting up new webbing or better yet adding chains.


Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : Iron Butte : Grip Master (5.10b)
By: BruceB When: Nov 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Fun. Slopey small friction holds for hands and feet. The 10b line goes to the right of the bolts. Have Tr'd it and gone left of the bolts, that's more 10+. Mussey hooks on chains.


Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : Iron Butte : The Wall (5.9)
By: BruceB When: Nov 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The anchors have monster chains. Fine for rapping off.


Location: NV : Reno and Carson City : Iron Butte : Baboon Safari (5.10c/d)
By: BruceB When: Nov 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Fun climb, but I guess I took the easy way. The way I did it was 9+/10a.

I didn't go directly under the roof, because it's covered in bird shit, the initial rock quality is not so great, and the natural line trends to the right up some blocks. And it was fun that way. It still leads to the finger crack and then the hand crack that is so appealing from the ground.
The description says the crux is up high, so I didn't think I was missing out on the crux either. But, while the finger and hand crac... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Crystal Springs Canyon : ... : Left Branch (5.10a)
By: BruceB When: Nov 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: There are anchors and chains at the top.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Crystal Springs Canyon : ... : Nevada/Utah Border (5.10)
By: BruceB When: Nov 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great route, It's a shame caughtinside had such a bad time on it.

Yes, it's definitely sandbagged. I would put the crux move at about 10d (as an onsight). The moves are sequencey and strenuous. But the pro is excellent.

It's a short route. There are chains part way up the upper slab, so no 3rd class over loose rubble.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Central Wall : Eagle Buttress, Right Side (5.9)
By: BruceB When: Sep 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a real hidden gem (I guess mostly because of the nesting closures).
Had no trouble doing this in 4 pitches, we combined the last two 4th class pitches.

Supertopo calls P2 5.9 and P3 5.10a. I disagree, I think P2 is 10a/b and P3 is 5.9.

The P2 overhanging hand traverse followed by the roof and dyke hiking is committing and strenuous, and amazingly fun. Fantastic exposure. And the start to this pitch is pretty tough too, definitely lasso the knob for pro.

Found 3 pins on the route, all ... more >>


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