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Member Since: Apr 18, 2003
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Bruce Hildenbrand

Point Rank: # 702
Total Points: 1,114
Last Year: 142
Last 30 Days: 39
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bruce Hildenbrand been climbing?










Bruce Hildenbrand

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 546 | Routes 57 | Areas 10 | Photos 29 | Page Improvements | Comments 249 | Posts 137 | Stars 61 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Stonehenge : Thought Control (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Thought Control and Auspice have had their hardware (bolts and anchors) upgraded, thanks to the Anchor Replacement Initiative. Also, many thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council, OSMP, and the Access Fund for making the work possible.

Volunteers: Matt Samet, Kevin Riley - November 2009.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 4 - Arch Rock : Gripper (5.10b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: As a bit of history, BITD there used to be a small, black, plastic gorilla in the crack on the first pitch. After you climbed up the handcrack and grabbed the chicken head there was the gorilla staring directly at you with bared teeth!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Hall of Mirrors (5.12c R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: John,

actually, 'foonting' was named after the character from the Robert Crumb/Mr. Natural comics, Flakey Foont.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Sunnyside Bench : Tiny Tim (5.7 R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: When this route was put up in the 60's there were no bolts on the climb, but they did have pitons. When I did it in the mid-70's we weren't using pins so it was all natural pro. The problem was that there wasn't any natural pro so it was undoubtedly X-rated. Times change.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Contact (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Aug 25, 2016

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Comments: Dale Haas and I brought a wrench and tightened the 6th bolt on the 2nd pitch as well as all the other bolts on the 2nd pitch as well. If you go right at the 2nd bolt, it is much easier than going left. That might be why some people think the crux of the route is at the 2nd bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : A Brief History of Time (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: Dale Haas and I bolted the direct finish to this route. At the third bolt, instead of traversing right into the hand crack go straight up past two bolts to a new two bolt anchor with rings for rappel. The climbing is in the 5.9+/5.10- range.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Simplexity (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: Dale Haas and replaced the other cold shut anchor at the belay with a SS Powers 5-piece bolt. The anchor now has one SS bolt, one plated steel bolt, two SS hangers, and SS quicklinks and rings.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Catacomb : Headstones (5.8)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Aug 21, 2016

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Comments: Dale Haas and I added a more user-friendly anchor to this route. No more need for long slings on TR or blowing a biceps tendon pulling your rope after rappelling.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Bihedral Arete (5.10a)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: Dale Haas and I replaced the 1/4" quicklinks and 3/8" links of chain at the first belay with Fixe SS double ring hangers. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.

We also tightened up the third bolt on the first pitch(crux) which was very loose.

As an aside, Dale and I placed those original anchors on the route shortly after the FA in 2002, so they have been up there for 14 year... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Flags of Our Fathers (5.10a)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: The description for the third pitch reads:

"When doing the 3rd pitch, you should belay at the 2nd belay of the Bihedral Arete."

Shouldn't this actually read:

"When doing the 3rd pitch, you should belay at the top of the first pitch of the Bihedral Arete."

The term "2nd belay" is a bit confusing. Does that mean the belay for the start of the 2nd pitch (in this case probably, yes), bu... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : ... : Photo
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: Looks like you are clipped into the first bolt of "Where's Ray?'


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Edge of Reality (5.12a/b R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 20, 2016

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Comments: Dale Haas and I replaced the cold shut as one of the anchors with a Fixe ring hanger. This now makes two Fixe ring hangers at the anchor. Thanks to Ron Olsen for providing the hardware.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge : Conglomerate Face (5.7+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 7, 2016

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Comments: Looks like red Loctite. I would suggest blue Loctite for future projects. It is much easier to break the bond if you need to do replacement. Red Loctite can sometimes become permanent.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: ^^^^^^^^
Nice work! Thanks to the whole team - Mike McHugh, Eddie Schoen, Thomas White, Clint Locks, and Japhy Dhungana!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : It's Time For Change (5.8)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 7, 2016

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Comments: Climbed this today after the block had been removed. No change in the grade of the route. No need to bring any trad gear for this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : It's Time For Change (5.8)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: The discussion surrounding the loose block on this route can be found here:

mountainproject.com/v/bocan-ro...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : New Lease on Life (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: On 6/2/16 Dale Haas and I put a new hanger, washer, and nut on the 4th bolt. We also tightened all the remaining bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Magician (5.10a)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: Dale Haas and I went up there on 6/2/16 and put a new hanger, washer, and nut on the 5th bolt. We also tightened all the other bolts on the climb, so hopefully this won't be a problem in the near future.

As far as the quality of climbing on the route...I think the climb is better and more fun doing it via the 5.9 handcrack start on the left.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Slow Train Coming (5.11a)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: Nice rebolting job, Lisa. Actually, that's not a Leeper hanger but an HME (Hughston Mountain Equipment) hanger. You can identify it versus a Leeper by the large carabiner hole. HME hangers are very strong.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Murphy's Dome South Face : Slim Chance (5.10a) : Photo
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 8, 2016

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Comments: Unless you look closely, it is easy to mistake this for a 1/4" buttonhead. It should be replaced with 3/8" stainless, but those 5/16" buttonheads can be really difficult to get out!


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Murphy's Dome South Face : Slim Chance (5.10a) : Photo
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: Actually, this is a 5/16" buttonhead with an HME hanger. The hanger is good and a properly placed 5/16" buttonhead is usually pretty darn strong.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Photo
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: Carina,

Sounds like 'Made in the Shade' (route M in the photo).


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (l) Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : ... : Photo
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: I thought that was his wallet, too. But, as someone else pointed out to me that is actually his belay seat.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Mosquito Burrito (5.8+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: On high traffic routes, the best solution is to use easily replaceable hardware such as two quicklinks or a quicklink and a rappel ring per bolt. Using hangers with rings means that when the rings wear you have to replace the entire hanger. That's not too difficult for wedge bolts as long as the threads on the end of the bolt are fine, but this can be a problem with Powers 5-piece bolts where it is difficult to get the correct torque on the bolts when re-tightening them.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Crying Time Again (5.10a)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: Back in the summer of 1978, Julie Brugger and I put up a direct finish to the climb. Since we thought we were doing the actual finish we didn't bring a bolt kit. That would have been nice.

Anyway, you climb directly up from the big ledge 20' to a bolt(back then it was a 1/4", it might be replaced by now). From there continue straight up on good rock with good edges(5.10a) for about 20-25' to a good ledge(4"x12") where you can rest. Next, head up and sightly right for another 60' following g... more >>


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