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Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 973
Total Points: 802
Last Year: 96
Last 30 Days: 3
30 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1012 | Routes 40 | Areas 3 | Photos 42 | Page Improvements | Comments 147 | Posts 115 | Stars 374 | Ratings 291
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia : Twinkie (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: 4 days ago

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Comments: This route is a pain to clean, and has resulted in significant injury from a large pendulum into a nearby tree.
Although this is forest service land, there is usually a biner left at the base of the roof or one bolt into it. Cleaning on lower is much safer if you use the biner as a directional - if it's still there, resist the urge to booty it. If it isn't, consider leaving a discrete biner of your own. If the forest service ban on fixed gear is to be taken very seriously, some creative use of a... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : White Wall : Shang (5.12c)
By: BrianWS When: May 5, 2016

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Comments: To each their own! I have notoriously poor open hand strength, so the crux felt much harder to me. I've heard of people calling this a 12b even. Regardless, it's probably the lesser of the three routes on this wall in terms of quality.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress : ... : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: It's relative. Anything that isn't pure vert or slightly overhanging at The New is considered a slab. Just like pure vert/slightly off vert is considered "steep" in many longer established areas out west with lots of true slabs.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Upper Meadow : Second Buttress : Schneezal (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: After climbing nearly every 12- sport route in the gorge, this one still stands out as my favorite. The rock quality, diversity of terrain and movement, awesome crux, and stellar views are hard to beat. Climb above the anchors and top out for the full experience.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Beer Wall : My Sister Makes Cluster Bom... (5.11c)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: I gave the route a good sweeping the first burn and got it second go. Definitely helped, as did November temps. I remember the start required some long moves between small holds, but it went at my height (5'6).
Not sure you can make a fair comparison between narcissus direct and this route - one has powerful moves between small positive holds while the other is basically a slab.

Regardless, it probably isn't worth a repeat or further effort. Why would anybody want to go back to beer wall in th... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Outrage Wall : Fit for Life (5.12c)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 14, 2016

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Comments: 2/7/16 We left an orange biner on the 3rd or fourth bolt to aid for cleaning on lower. Please leave it for future parties to use.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : The Cirque : Hourglass (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Really fun route and very unique movement. The second crux is easier for smaller climbers - being able to jam the feature makes the sequence about 10+ or 11- tops.
The final crux is quite difficult for the grade, moreso the shorter you are. It went clean at 5'7, but required a full out huck.
Traversing right from the final bolt sets you up for a slightly easier, but much more heads up, finish. A fall exiting the crux of this variation would slam the leader into the dihedral down and left. This... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress : Gun Club (5.12c)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 12, 2015

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Comments: The route runs very close to the supercrack corner up to the crux. Climbing the crack puts you a bit further from the bolts than you'd want to be, so I wouldn't really call it an eliminate.
You can lead supercrack and easily drop your draws on the face while lowering, if that answers your question.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress : Gun Club (5.12c)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 12, 2015

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Comments: Agreed. The crux on this climb is so far from 12a, it's not even funny. If you take the route directly (stay out of supercrack), the crux is a slabby v5 or harder move. However, if you choose to bypass the crux by cheating out right, the original description is correct - no individual moves are harder than 12-.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Stealth and Magic (5.12d)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 7, 2015

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Comments: three district cruxes, killer movement, and great stone... That is, until the last two bolts, where the rock quality takes a turn for the friable and sandy. Oh, and it is one of the few technical climbs at the New which stays dry in the rain.

It's also one of the few NRG 5.12s where taller folks may be at a distinct disadvantage during the crux. Described as "soft 12c" in the Thompson guide, but definitely harder than that. 12d seems very fair.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Wild Yet Tasty (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: Oct 25, 2015

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Comments: Far from being the "softest" 12 a in the gorge, per the guidebook description. Felt pretty solid by NRG standards and much much harder than other RRG 12- routes. Climb Ro Shampo, Check Your Grip, Inequity, or pretty much any non-Porter Jarrard 12a/b lines for comparison. Hell, Mercy the Huff felt only slightly harder than this line.

I assume most people read the description, hang the sh** out of the route, and sandbag because others have done the same.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Hellbound Area : Maximum Leader (5.12c)
By: BrianWS When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: Hard as nails, per the usual Endless Wall 5.12. The start is extremely difficult for short climbers -- critical holds are too reachy from the good jams in the corner, and feet are too far to use the friable jugs under the starting roof. Not a fun start, not just because of the awkwardness, but also the fragile stone. Perhaps this can be bypassed by starting on the first bolts of pulling on porcelain and traversing into the roof?

Once in the large roof (bolt 3), the climbing is fantastic -- plat... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : The Other Place : Eor Got the Bosch, Tigger G... (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Conditions at the top of this climb are horrid. It's dusty, slick, and the anchors were installed right in the middle of a seasonal water streak -- both anchors are severely corroded and can be chipped away with a fingernail.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv...
By: BrianWS When: Oct 7, 2015

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Comments: Please refrain from writing messages at the base of climbs with chalk. It is unsightly, unnecessary, and becoming unfortunately common at Summersville.


If you need to leave a critical condition report (bad bolts or anchors) for popular climbs, please rely on word of mouth, this website, or by reporting bad hardware to NRAC. Everyone wants to be a good steward, but turning the rock into a message board is not the way to do this.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area : Interpreting Intermission (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: Fun route, but it is pretty unbelievable that someone decided to actually bolt the detached flake for the neighboring line. Placing gear behind the flake felt pretty sketchy on ziggurat, and a fall on the upper bolts could potentially damage this hollow and dubiously attached feature.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Upper Meadow : Second Buttress : Red Bull (5.12d)
By: BrianWS When: Sep 6, 2015

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Comments: Establishing on the face is significantly harder than "v3". The rest of the description is spot on- fun climbing on surprisingly good holds. The hardware is pretty aged, but held quite a few falls.


UPDATE 4/6/2016
Most of if not all of the hardware is still old. There are two new bolts and one permadraw, however. This allows for a linkup from red bull to the headwall of schneezal - this eliminates the upper 12- section on red bull making this newish line a reported 12c.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : The Other Place : Depth Charge (5.12b)
By: BrianWS When: Sep 6, 2015

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Comments: I have tightened the nut and hanger on the 2nd roof bolt. It should be good for a while now.

If climbing this route, please try to inspect and tighten the nut/hanger before entering the traverse.

If the nut works loose, a fall on this bolt will result in further deformation of the bolt. Again, please be a good steward and make sure the nut and hangar are tight before exiting the roof.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : The Coliseum : Tobacco Road (5.12a/b)
By: BrianWS When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: The crux bolt is in need of maintenance. The nut has worked its way to the last few threads of the bolt, along with the hanger. (Grey sheathed permadraw)

I tried tightening the nut, but it is firmly stuck on the bolt threads -- I could not get the nut to move independently from the bolt. Fixing this bolt will require a wrench and another tool to keep the bolt still as the nut is tightened.

Fortunately, there is an older bolt still in place next to the newly installed one. It seemed to be in mu... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Ecstasy (5.7) : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: mountainproject.com/v/the-cave...


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Big Drum (5.11b)
By: BrianWS When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: Holy shit... Glad to hear the climber was ok.
If both anchor bolts broke, I wouldn't call it a "freak" accident. That's a pretty good indication of the quality for many other pieces of supposedly sound hardware from the big 2006 rebolt.

Has there been any movement towards installing titanium yet?


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : The Other Place : Submarine (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Strange reengineering on this one.

The route follows a natural line and weakness up the slab and trends to the right side of the arete -- yet the bolt has been moved left and the anchors have been moved away down and left as well, apparently in an attempt to force a direct finish.

Following the weakness right keeps the grade at pretty solid 12a, but with a nasty fall and difficult rope management during the cruxy finish. The direct variation feels much, much more contrived and difficult.

I'... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Beer Wall : My Sister Makes Cluster Bom... (5.11c)
By: BrianWS When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: It's thin, but it goes well below V5... did this one before I climbed other 12s at the New.

The rest of the climbing is alright. Certainly not a classic, but definitely not deserving of a "bomb" rating.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Head Wall : China Crisis (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: Many routes at Bubba City are retrobolted gear lines, per the original FA's decision. Accessibility and convenience were most likely the rationale.

What was done was done years ago and is certainly not the norm at the rest of the gorge. Since it isn't part of a new trend in the area and was done so long ago, it isn't really worth making a fuss over in my opinion.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Reach for the Sky (5.11b)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: Never sent this one... It's a tough, full value 5.11. The first time I gave it an honest attempt was in full summer sun, and thought I was going to die a hot, sweaty death.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Family (5.11)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: A good route, but didn't seem to get much attention. Climbed with Milk or Wiktor, 2009ish.


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