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Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 975
Total Points: 813
Last Year: 84
Last 30 Days: 2
30 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1068 | Routes 40 | Areas 3 | Photos 42 | Page Improvements | Comments 158 | Posts 136 | Stars 387 | Ratings 302
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Pirate's Cove : Indian Summer (5.10c)
By: BrianWS When: Aug 5, 2016

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Comments: Should be fine in early sept. Check here for daily updates and historical info:

lrh-wc.usace.army.mil/wm/?basi...


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : The Long Wall
By: BrianWS When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: The names in the 2007 guidebook were likely not the ones originally given by the first ascentionists. They have since been revised in the updated guides and Rakkup content.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Gift of Grace, The (5.12b)
By: BrianWS When: Jul 21, 2016

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Comments: Some of the bolt spacing during the first half of the route is less than ideal. The early portion of the route is scary and insecure if placing draws on the go, and blowing the first crux (bolt 3-4) has a nasty swinging fall onto a slab/into a low roof. This is an extremely committing move, especially if you don't have long draws already hanging. The rest of the route has clean, albeit very big, falls onto brand new hardware and shouldn't be missed.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Marshall's Madness - Crack ... (5.10a)
By: BrianWS When: Jul 8, 2016

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Comments: The second pitch by itself is 10a, just a bit harder and more sustained than the 1st pitch.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area : Chimpanzabubbas (5.10d)
By: BrianWS When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: "100%" never suggested that you implied a gear rating. Just reiterating ample gear despite the guidebook's dubious beta.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Blackface Arete (5.11d)
By: BrianWS When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: This is a very fun route, even if the upper portion is a bit of an eliminate - if you cross over from the face into the slab, you can skip some of the challenging-yet fun arĂȘte slapping and groping that leads to the anchors.
This was originally a gear lead, allegedly. After bolting, it has become a very popular warmup for folks working the 12s and 13s around the buttress.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area : Chimpanzabubbas (5.10d)
By: BrianWS When: Jun 19, 2016

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Comments: Pro is G rated 100% on this route with a standard rack and no slinging of natural features. Sweet climb, especially the steep and featured upper headwall.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Flash Point Area : Euro-Nation (5.11c)
By: BrianWS When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: Tree is still there. Good route regardless of how you start it and wonderfully purile name.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : The Cirque : ... : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Those aren't ribs, they're perfectly formed rolls of fat.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Playground : Monkey Bars (5.10a)
By: BrianWS When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: Did you try tightening the nut by hand? Is the bolt moving or is the hangar just loose? Specifics are important here.

Unless the bolt itself is moving, it should be fine. If you can't tighten the nut by hand, a wrench ought to do it.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: But how else are upper middle class white folks visiting West Virginia going to show their progressive affinity with the Nepalese or Tibetans?


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia : Twinkie (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: May 24, 2016

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Comments: This route is a pain to clean, and has resulted in significant injury from a large pendulum into a nearby tree.
Although this is forest service land, there is usually a biner left at the base of the roof or one bolt into it. Cleaning on lower is much safer if you use the biner as a directional - if it's still there, resist the urge to booty it. If it isn't, consider leaving a discrete biner of your own. If the forest service ban on fixed gear is to be taken very seriously, some creative use of a... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : White Wall : Shang (5.12c)
By: BrianWS When: May 5, 2016

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Comments: To each their own! I have notoriously poor open hand strength, so the crux felt much harder to me. I've heard of people calling this a 12b even. Regardless, it's probably the lesser of the three routes on this wall in terms of quality.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress : ... : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: It's relative. Anything that isn't pure vert or slightly overhanging at The New is considered a slab. Just like pure vert/slightly off vert is considered "steep" in many longer established areas out west with lots of true slabs.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Upper Meadow : Second Buttress : Schneezal (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: After climbing nearly every 12- sport route in the gorge, this one still stands out as my favorite. The rock quality, diversity of terrain and movement, awesome crux, and stellar views are hard to beat. Climb above the anchors and top out for the full experience.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Beer Wall : My Sister Makes Cluster Bom... (5.11c)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: I gave the route a good sweeping the first burn and got it second go. Definitely helped, as did November temps. I remember the start required some long moves between small holds, but it went at my height (5'6).
Not sure you can make a fair comparison between narcissus direct and this route - one has powerful moves between small positive holds while the other is basically a slab.

Regardless, it probably isn't worth a repeat or further effort. Why would anybody want to go back to beer wall in th... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Outrage Wall : Fit for Life (5.12c)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 14, 2016

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Comments: 2/7/16 We left an orange biner on the 3rd or fourth bolt to aid for cleaning on lower. Please leave it for future parties to use.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : The Cirque : Hourglass (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Really fun route and very unique movement. The second crux is easier for smaller climbers - being able to jam the feature makes the sequence about 10+ or 11- tops.
The final crux is quite difficult for the grade, moreso the shorter you are. It went clean at 5'7, but required a full out huck.
Traversing right from the final bolt sets you up for a slightly easier, but much more heads up, finish. A fall exiting the crux of this variation would slam the leader into the dihedral down and left. This... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress : Gun Club (5.12c)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 12, 2015

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Comments: The route runs very close to the supercrack corner up to the crux. Climbing the crack puts you a bit further from the bolts than you'd want to be, so I wouldn't really call it an eliminate.
You can lead supercrack and easily drop your draws on the face while lowering, if that answers your question.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress : Gun Club (5.12c)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 12, 2015

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Comments: Agreed. The crux on this climb is so far from 12a, it's not even funny. If you take the route directly (stay out of supercrack), the crux is a slabby v5 or harder move. However, if you choose to bypass the crux by cheating out right, the original description is correct - no individual moves are harder than 12-.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Stealth and Magic (5.12d)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 7, 2015

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Comments: three district cruxes, killer movement, and great stone... That is, until the last two bolts, where the rock quality takes a turn for the friable and sandy. Oh, and it is one of the few technical climbs at the New which stays dry in the rain.

It's also one of the few NRG 5.12s where taller folks may be at a distinct disadvantage during the crux. Described as "soft 12c" in the Thompson guide, but definitely harder than that. 12d seems very fair.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Wild Yet Tasty (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: Oct 25, 2015

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Comments: Far from being the "softest" 12 a in the gorge, per the guidebook description. Felt pretty solid by NRG standards and much much harder than other RRG 12- routes. Climb Ro Shampo, Check Your Grip, Inequity, or pretty much any non-Porter Jarrard 12a/b lines for comparison. Hell, Mercy the Huff felt only slightly harder than this line.

I assume most people read the description, hang the sh** out of the route, and sandbag because others have done the same.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Hellbound Area : Maximum Leader (5.12c)
By: BrianWS When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: Hard as nails, per the usual Endless Wall 5.12. The start is extremely difficult for short climbers -- critical holds are too reachy from the good jams in the corner, and feet are too far to use the friable jugs under the starting roof. Not a fun start, not just because of the awkwardness, but also the fragile stone. Perhaps this can be bypassed by starting on the first bolts of pulling on porcelain and traversing into the roof?

Once in the large roof (bolt 3), the climbing is fantastic -- plat... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : The Other Place : Eor Got the Bosch, Tigger G... (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Conditions at the top of this climb are horrid. It's dusty, slick, and the anchors were installed right in the middle of a seasonal water streak -- both anchors are severely corroded and can be chipped away with a fingernail.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv...
By: BrianWS When: Oct 7, 2015

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Comments: Please refrain from writing messages at the base of climbs with chalk. It is unsightly, unnecessary, and becoming unfortunately common at Summersville.


If you need to leave a critical condition report (bad bolts or anchors) for popular climbs, please rely on word of mouth, this website, or by reporting bad hardware to NRAC. Everyone wants to be a good steward, but turning the rock into a message board is not the way to do this.


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