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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : White Punks on Pockets (5.9)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Dec 16, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the better moderates that I've done at Shelf. It is located near the eastern end of Cactus Cliff, just before the cliff starts heading north to the Gym areas. It is by itself just right of a corner, on top of a smaller rise, and the base is surrounded by cacti.
Climb through the first three bolts to a ledge. You then have three more bolts to the anchors. From the ledge you can go left throguh the crack, straight up the face (most difficult), or layback the right arete. I kind of wan... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Kalahari Sidewinder (5.8)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Dec 16, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually give this route 1-2 stars. Not a challenging route at all. It seems that up top the route forces you into the large crack on the right. There appears to be face climbing, but it looked a bit more diffcult than 5.8. A good route to lead to get warmed up for the other moderates out there.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Ha... (5.10d)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Dec 16, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Honestly this route is a one-move wonder. The crux comes jsut after the great pockets a third of the way up the route. May be easier for taller folk? After the crux it is fairly easy/standard Shelf moderate to the top. If you don't feel like leading it, climb the 5.8 (kalahari sidewinder) to the left and rap down to set up a TR. Like the route description says good route if in the area and looking for something to do.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Dec 16, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some comments on getting there: The Nevada street exit mentioned in the area desrciption above has been under construction for the at least the last year and a half. That is no longer the case. The exit is now well marked and straight-forward. Take the Nevada street exit, at the end of the ramp go right. Then take an immediate left turn and get in the right lane to get on Nevada. This road then becomes 115.
In Canon City, the right turn just past Wal-Mart is onto a street named Dozier. Ta... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Son of Tidricks (5.8)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Dec 2, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: An interesting route. On the day we climbed it, the route seemed pretty sandy. Maybe a difficult 5.8? I could have been tired from the other climbing during the day. But the moves getting through and past the third bolt would be interesting on lead. A good route if you are looking for something to do and get a bit scared on.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Warren - Johnson (5.10c X)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Nov 12, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: S&$#!! If I ever see someone leading this route I am going to go ahead and call 911 and get them on the way. I say that I with a fair amount of seriousness too. Anyways, here is my two cents on the route. I would definitely lead up one of the routes on the Cowboy Boot face (Cowboy Boot Crack-5.6, Trigger Finger-5.9/5.10, Unzipped-5.7). If you climb either of the first two, rap to your left under the rock to two large eyebolts. Then rap down the face to the ground. The route more or ... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Lower Finger Traverse (5.7)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Nov 12, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had not climbed this route previous to the holds breaking off, so I cannot attest to the relative difficulty to it. However, I would not put it any harder than a 5.8. If anything it is a bit of a mind game because it is a different style. But, it is low-angle with apparently solid rock and holds virtually the whole way. A ggreat lead for anyone looking for some GoG variety.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Finger Ramp (5.7)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Nov 12, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've climbed this route a couple of times in the last few weeks. After discussing with some friends, I've come to the conclusion that it is a one move wonder route (maybe two depending on height and ape-factor). The initial runout is no worse than any other GoG routes. There are plenty of edges, etc to get you to the last pin. I've found that the more you can get a foot wedged in the crack/depression below the "Finger" the more secure it seems, although you are placing yourself higher than y... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Lower Finger Direct (5.10+ X)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Oct 27, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: According the guide book, you gain a seam to the right about 15 feet off the ground. You then follow this to the only pin on the route where you find a jug and go for the anchors. I would like to think this is a 5.10+, but I agree maybe not the hard. . . Later.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes...
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Oct 20, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone have a photoshopped image of Silver Cascade with the routes drawn in? Unfortunately my knowledge of the area is limited and I prefer visuals anyways. I basically just want to know what the heck I climbed yesterday. Thanks for your help.-BW
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : Rocket Fuel (5.11b)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Oct 10, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am just now getting around to my "tick list" and putting my two cents in on CB. I climbed this with Darin over Labor Day weekend and I just have a few comments to add. The beta is very accurate. The anchors are the same as Mighty Thor and you can rap the route with a 60m rope with a few feet to spare on each end.
From what I saw the runout to the 1st pin was just that: really, really run out. This climb changed "personalities" about three different times. The bottom is fairly moderate, s... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Fastest Drill (5.9)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Oct 10, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: ATTENTION: After further research and guidebook consultation, this route is NOT named "Fastest Drill". The real route name is "Unzipped" and it is in the Falcon guide as a 5.7+. All over the other beta is correct though. Like I said in the route description this is way more run out than a 5.7 should be, but a fun route nonetheless.
For more clarification, here is some beta on the actual "Fastest Drill" route. Fastest Drill follows the first 2 or so pins on Trigger Finger. When TF goes str... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower : North Ridge (5.7)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Jun 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was thinking about this some more the other night. The steps were not chopped in to to make the route possible. That is, this was not someone's project that they were working on forever and just couldn't get so, they decided to make it easier (possibly similar to something like the alleged chipping on Kryptonite?). The "steps" were put in for easy access, they are part of the route and should not take away from this climb. Just another thought that I had.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower : North Ridge (5.7)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Jun 9, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Along the lines of what Dan had to say, view this route with a historic perspective. If you look at the FA info/background of the North Ridge you will see that the first DOCUMENTED ascents were by military personnel getting practice in. It is rumored that they chopped steps in. Oh well, it is part of the history of the route. So, it is the difference between what may be a 5.9ish route or a 5.7. Oh well, it is done and irreplaceable. The bottom line is that this is a great moderate (possib... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Fastest Drill (5.9)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Apr 30, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the props JC. It was fairly satisfying I have to admit. I only have one problem with the route though. I am still waiting for a member of the Nebraska contingent to sac up and lead this thing. . .
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Apr 30, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have yet to meet anyone, who did not enjoy a day of climbing at the Garden. It is one of the most unique places to climb that I have ever been to. Every type/style of climbing exists here. From the slab style on the south end of north gateway/ north end of south gateway, to the spire of Montezuma's Tower, to the bolted/mixed routes all over the place, to pure trad lines, and there is even some quality bouldering thrown in. It is simply a unique place and as long as climbers take care of it... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : Cocaine (5.10-)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Apr 15, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn, this was one of the hardest routes I have ever been on. I expected the usual Garden slab, but this was something completely different. I don't think many people climb this because there was none of the tell-tale signs that are common markers on Garden routes. You know, chalk, black rubber marks on the rock, things that maybe give you a hint to as what direction you need to go. It was not bad until the third bolt. There you encounter a bulge slab thing that is very perplexing. It is h... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : The Blowouts Area
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Jan 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I stand corrected. I just now noticed that William Prehm had put a summary of bouldering in the Garden. There are also comments listed under his rock area that apply to bouldering also. Alas, my attempt at helping the cause appears to have fallen short. At the very least i put up some pics that may be of use. If any of the above people is offended that I added my own thing in, I apologize. But it can't hurt to have the rocks listed, can it?
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Trigger Finger (5.9)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Jan 9, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to agree with Darin, again. I justclimbed this route last week and it felt like no other 5.9 I had ever done. Right before you get into the final "hiking" section of the climb, part of the edgy dish thing broke on me. That is a mangy little hold that is not worth much and not necessary for the climb, at least as a hand. A fun route though and a very good example of a Garden friction climb.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Dec 10, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone remember the issue # of the R&I that had a miniguide for Carter Lake? Thanks for your help.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Trigger Finger (5.9)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Nov 2, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Look Dave, I realize that you were not coming after anyone in particular. But, and this is important, when you meet up with new or inexperience climbers, be cool to them. See what they are climbing, where they are from, stuff like that. Recommend some good climbs in the area, either at the Garden or somewhere close by. It is your responsibility to pass on the spirit and joy of climbing to both new climbers and non-climbers. This is coming from someone who always appreciates the locals takin... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Chouette (5.6)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Oct 26, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: As a side to my comment above: I am still a beginning trad leader, so despite the bolts and level of climbing, I still have issues with protecting my climb. I do this for two reasons: 1) I want to make sure I am secure, and 2) I like practicing gear placements while on an easier route. After looking a various guidebooks and critiquing my climb there was not as much need for gear. But, a good route to practice placin' it nonetheless.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Trigger Finger (5.9)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Oct 26, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now, I don't want to be negative here or slamming anyone, but I have to take exception to the previous comment. I too am one of these Nebraska climbers. I don't claim to be an exceptional climber, I am not a local, heck I just started climbing three years ago. But I do love being outside enjoying a unique experience with cool people. Whenever I talk to new climbers I remind myself that I started like them also. These guys are just trying to develop into climbers that will not need help. It... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Tree Slab
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Sep 25, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was one of the first areas that I went to in Flagstaff. I had already been climbing hard for two days, so we needed a break day. Obviously Flagstaff is not exactly finger friendly, but the routes at Tree Slab are easily manageable by about any climber. I don't know of route names or even how the lines go but they are all fun. Probably no more than V1 on anything (if that). A good photo op exists from the top looking down from the top of the problems. I'll try to add some photos later. H... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Brian T. Wandzilak When: Sep 4, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've noticed people mentioning types of gear needed for this route, so I thought I would put in my two cents. The second time I did this route, I MEANT to bring tri-cams, cams, and stoppers. Needless to say when I opened my pack and found that I had left stoppers at home I kind of freaked. Needless to say they were not necessary. I was able to do the entire thing with three tri-cams (pink, red(?), and black) and the medium range cams (#.5-#3) and a bunch of QDs. It was kind of ni... more >>
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