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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Goat Rock State Beach : Sunset Rock : Skullcracker (V2 R)
By: Brian Quiter When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Or you could toss a pad on the namesake rock?
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Big Chief - Center Wall : Bird of Prey (5.10d)
By: Brian Quiter When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: how 'bout some info on the climb?
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Far Side, The (Mt. St. Hele... : Feelin' Your Oats (5.10b R)
By: Brian Quiter When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hangers on this route have been hammered flat. I don't know if you can get a quick-draw through them, and I doubt you should trust them.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Bear, The : The Bear Arete (5.11b)
By: Brian Quiter When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I too hit up this climb for the first time in years, but want to note some changes from my original description:
1) No dyno necessary, but the crux is still tricky with crumbly feet. I agree with Eric about the ~11c suggestion.
2) There are now 4 bolts leaving ground level that lead into what I had known as the Bear Arete. They follow a seam past another 5.11 section that was quite fun and on solid rock. We did the whole route as 1 pitch, and found our 60 meter rope was long enough to lower u... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Table Mountain
By: Brian Quiter When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The condition report is specific for The Grotto only. It doesn't belong on the Table Mountain page... especially since most of Table Mountain is NOT CLOSED.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : Pueblo Canyon Areas : North Rd. West : (10) Inundator (V1+)
By: Brian Quiter When: Oct 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was guessing that this would be #10 is my numbering system.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park
By: Brian Quiter When: Oct 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Its going to rain this weekend, and this prompts my annual warning about climbing in Castle Rock when it is wet:
After significant rainfalls sandstone becomes very fragile. Do not climb at Castle Rock during these times because doing so will break holds! Also, you want very dry conditions to do any serious sending here, and you have to just wait until water seeps out of the sandstone. So please don't climb at Castle Rock this weekend, or for about a week after any good rainstorm.
Thanks!
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : (05) The Balance of Power (5.11d)
By: Brian Quiter When: Sep 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah the rock is chossy throughout, I bet it will clean up if more people climbed it - I certainly did my share, but the climbing is FUN!!!!
3 stars climbing + 0 stars rock quality = 1.5 stars. I round up because the rock will probably get better with time.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : South Cliffband : Dynabolic (5.11)
By: Brian Quiter When: Sep 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ditto Mono and Jason: I would give this climb the old 'bomb' rating if you were to pay any attention to the guidebooks (which unfortunately, I did), but using the right side of the climb makes for fun 5.11 climbing.
Apparently, it can also provide entertaining photo ops.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : (18) Unknown (5.9)
By: Brian Quiter When: Sep 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It looks like there used to be 4 bolts. Now the crux (passing where the 2nd bolt used to be) is unprotected, making a 5.10 leader want to use the crack on the right and skip the best moves of the climb. Boo for crowding climbs and un-maintained bolts.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : (09) Holy Wars (5.11a)
By: Brian Quiter When: Sep 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beverly's book indicates that Montana Deviate (5.9+) starts on Holy Wars and bends right near the top. This is wrong. The 5.9+ way up the face heavily relies upon using the wide crack on the right.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : (01) Unknown (5.8)
By: Brian Quiter When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are two more ways to start this climb if you're top-roping or into unprotected leading/soloing:
The face just left of the dihedral is fun and of similar difficulty.
Also, moving right after the first couple moves and pulling a big roof is probably 11+ or 12- and is a one-move-wonder/better-bouldered-than-climbed option.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : (05) Unrelenting Nines (5.11c/d)
By: Brian Quiter When: Aug 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As the beta photo shows, there are now 2 bolts atop the crack for anchors and lowering. Thanks 'Mad Bolter'!
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Beastie Alley : Danger Mouse (5.10d)
By: Brian Quiter When: Jul 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mark failed to mention about the first crux:
6' people might forget that its also reachy!! I'm 5'8" and was an inch too short to reach the 'thin' holds without jumping. At least I could clip the first bolt (barely).
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Table Mountain
By: Brian Quiter When: Dec 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gold Wall is still on private property. But that is not keeping the crowds away. Last weekend, about 40 people were there! If you're planning on going during the weekend, I strongly recommend a helmet and a lot of patience.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : Muffins, The : The Sticky Green Traverse (V6)
By: Brian Quiter When: May 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found it! Its above the waterfall cliff. I walked straight away from the top of Charlie's Solo, and there it was. Shouldn't be tough to find now that we know where to look.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Salt Point State Park : The Treasure Chest : Red Beard (5.10a)
By: Brian Quiter When: Jul 5, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts used were NOT STAINLESS STEEL!! They've been there just under two years and they're already very rusty.
Oh, and the top anchors have been cut but you can still lower from Salty Dog's anchors.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Salt Point State Park : The Treasure Chest : Red Beard (5.10a)
By: Brian Quiter When: Jul 5, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10a? I find that hard to believe. I'm pretty short and found a small section to be quite challenging. I don't know how anyone my height who climbs 5.10a could get up it.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Salt Point State Park : The Treasure Chest : Salty Dog (5.11b)
By: Brian Quiter When: Jul 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Correction:This WAS the right-most climb in the Treasure Chest. Red Beard has since been bolted to the right.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : The Nut Tree Boulders
By: Brian Quiter When: Nov 8, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bad beta? Find some bad beta on this site and point it out... it won't be easy, but if you do, we'll correct it immediately and thank you for the heads-up. Then open up any guidebook comprising any region and repeat that task... (find the author, tell him/her about it and you might get to pay $25 in a few years for the correct beta in the next edition).
The beauty of climbing ANYWHERE.com is that our beta can be updated . In writing 'Chris Summit?' in the first ascent information on some Vac... more >>
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hidden Boulder
By: Brian Quiter When: Nov 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: really, i just guessed the first ascent info to get your attention (note the question marks)... it worked! thanks!
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : Summit Rock - Castle Rock : Bolt Filcher (5.10d)
By: Brian Quiter When: Oct 17, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, but I can't agree that it deserves 3 stars... maybe I just don't find slab climbing that exciting?
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Wright's Lake : Main Wall : The Fin (5.11c R)
By: Brian Quiter When: Oct 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this was a great route... once i aided the crux. I can usually pull an 11c move without much difficulty, but was pretty dumbfounded on this one. So i agree with aron that it's probably ~5.12 for today's standards... either that or we were missing something.
But I dont' think this route should be rated 's'. It should be stressed that you should bring a 1" cam for the top, but once you've done that you should be fine.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier, Diagonal Crack (5.10d)
By: Brian Quiter When: Oct 11, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: So I forgot my guidebook this last weekend and decided to lead the Diagnol.
I made a few bad choices that I think I should mention here so that other people dont do the same.
After the third bolt (there are three on the climb, the first two are VERY suspect) the climb either goes left into a dirty 5.6 chimney or traverses right as Tony metioned.
It also looks like you could go straight up. The face is pretty well featured on the steep part as far as you can see. I decided to go up. ... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Luther Spires : Wacko (5.10d)
By: Brian Quiter When: Sep 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I should add that I'm certainly not sure that this is a first ascent by me. I'm surprised that this route isn't bolted and that it hadn't been included in Chris McNamara's guidebook.
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