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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Buckshot (5.10c)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I stayed left in the descent gully and didn't need to rap.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Tower
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah remember we discussed who was the lightest and had to rappel without the cam to back it up.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Airhead (5.11d)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Linking pitches 2 and 3 is probably the best way to go. I didn't see a good belay stance and climbing the entire corner makes for a natural pitch. The directness and great movement make this a four star climb. I subtract one star for the dangerous nature of the final pitch. Tiptoe through the stacked blocks carefully.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Better than Love (5.5)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The slings mentioned as rap anchors on the fir tree are gone. Bring your own webbing and rap rings to save wear on this tree. Also, there is a large "platter" of light colored rock near the top of the arete that moved at the slightest touch. You are not above the belayer at this point but be wary.
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Aug 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've always parked at the Ridge road parking area. It's the "Future Parking Area" on this conceptual map. You hike on an abandoned road all the way to the quarry. I suppose it's a little farther, but probably doesn't take that much more time and there's no question that it's on JCOS land the whole way.
http://www.jeffco.us/jeffco/openspace_uploads/ntm_park/NTMco>>>>>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Rogue's Arete (5.10a R)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Apr 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bruce, thanks for the safe anchor and the effort and consideration you put into placing it.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Hand Job (aka West Face) (5.9)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Nov 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I feel certain this route is a 5.10 even for South Platte standards. The final steep handcrack warrants it. The initial 5.11 finger crack is also pretty stiff. Campusing on thin fingers while fidgeting with small Aliens to RPs? I think the aid crack is the longer, small crack further right and starting lower. Anyone know what the newer bolted line to the right is? Also, 2 #3 Big Bros would be a good idea. We descended off the backside of the tower. The anchor at the top needs new w... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cannonball Corner (5.10c)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Aug 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's totally dry now save the last pitch. We traversed left to join Good Evans at its crux via a difficult hand traverse after the bombay roof.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Hole in the Wall : Protege (5.11d)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Jul 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed like Eldo. I thought I was on Prince of Darkness or something.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Neurosis (5.10d R)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Mar 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this to Psycho Pigeon. What a contrast in rock quality, with this one getting the short end of the stick.
Ivan, we did the #3 Camalot move with little success in freeing it. I did get it seconding by taking the cam out and moving up higher and left and using tiny edges in the roof to reach right to the fist jam. Swinging right onto that hand proved incredibly painful. The rock above this was suspect to the end except for the enjoyable steep 9+ section. While fun it didn't seem... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psycho Pigeon (5.11a)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Mar 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great rock and position. An overlooked classic.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Top Of The World
By: Brian Milhaupt When: May 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the end of the forest service road is an old quarry. A private residence is now being built there and No Trespassing signs have been posted. Probably the easiest way to get to the end of the forest service road is to take a bike on the Colorado trail which links back up with the road near its end. Then stash it and hike around the private property to the left (north).
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Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Brian Milhaupt When: May 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shiprock...
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Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Brian Milhaupt When: May 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: When did you all become so afraid to break a rule?
Edward Abbey would be proud.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Parting Shot (5.11)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Mar 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very enjoyable and safe pitch. When linked together nothing larger than a red Alien is necessary. If you only have one rope, it's an easy traverse left to the Dirty Deed (West Chimney) rappel.
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Location: CO : Jefferson County Open Space...
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Mar 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The management plan has a continuation of the closure to the Ralston Buttes. Does anyone know what the species is they are trying to protect?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Standard Route (5.11- R)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Nov 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Each belay is equipped with new rap anchors. The descent is now possible in 5 single rope rappels. Don't be fooled by the piton and bolt above the belay on pitch 4. I believe the piton was part of the old belay and the bolt leads to runout hardness. This climb has varied and interesting climbing much like it's neighbor Equinox. One of the best in the area.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Blackout (5.10a)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Nov 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't think this warranted an "S" rating. It protects pretty well with rp's. The real danger is the loose upper section which brings the two star climbing down a notch.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Sep 6, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have used both rap routes and found the one Bob installed to be more usefull. The rap is cleaner, without the potential for ropes being stuck. It also sets you at the base of the most popular routes and serves as a belay for the bolted route there. Whether there are chains there or not doesn't matter. It's no problem to leave some slings and retrieve them when you finish your route.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Jul 9, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did the "Broadway Cutoff" variation to start Kiener's on 7/7. This starts further right of the original line and climbs easy ledges up and left to a chimneylike constriction that was pretty wet. You can traverse left here between a large detached block and the face at around 5.7 to regain the original line. Not the best way, but another option.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : North Face Ski Descent (Mod. Snow R)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Jul 9, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the tuning fork descent on 6/28/04 with 2" of fresh snow. We stayed skiers right and had to cross some rock 2/3 of the way down. The best approach is from the grays/torreys trailhead and as George mentioned earlier it is best to leave a car at the Grizzly gulch junction and hitch a ride up to the trailhead in the morning as everybody will be driving down the hill in the afternoon and the 2 mile hike back up to the trailhead is a bummer.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Tombstone (5.11a)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: May 21, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not bad climbing, it's just so short. Maybe 30'? Poison Ivy abounds.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Black Top (5.11c)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: May 21, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's very difficult to see the 3rd bolt from the stance where you place the 1" cam (look left). It's also pretty tough to place the cam in the best handhold available in the middle of the crux. It seams like it would be a good idea to climb this as an extension to Back in Black as Malcolm mentions to eliminate the possible factor 2 fall gaining the first bolt. This would without a doubt make an 11+ pitch.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Jurassic Park : Mud in Your Eye (5.11b)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Apr 27, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The flare at the top is safely protected with normal Camalots. It's not quite as hard as its neighbor, Lichen Lung.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Crack (5.11c)
By: Brian Milhaupt When: Apr 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two #3 Camalots would be very useful for the start and middle of the traverse.
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