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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Ytrid Deed (5.6)
By: Brian Hansen When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Larry has a good point; when did this go from "Dirty Deed" to "Ytrid Deed" and why?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Slave to the Rhythm (5.13b)
By: Brian Hansen When: Jan 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recall that he named one particularly large and white cobble "Skinhead."
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Durangotang (5.10c)
By: Brian Hansen When: Sep 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Ken Trout, early '80s.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Simians to the Sun (5.9+)
By: Brian Hansen When: Sep 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Bruce Lella, early '80s.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Photo
By: Brian Hansen When: Aug 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ken always looks like that to me. Not sure if it's him or me.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : The Infidel : The Infidel (5.11b/c R) : Photo
By: Brian Hansen When: May 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is a nice photo, and I am betting that it's old. Year please, plus or minus?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Front Porch
By: Brian Hansen When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The summit anchor (slings around a tree) were somewhat lacking today (May 18, 2008). Only two 1" slings with no rings or quick link. Bring a new quick link with you and you can keep the leaver I left behind.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : South Prow (5.7)
By: Brian Hansen When: Sep 10, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bivy at Sky Pond works well, though we couldn't find any caves.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Islet In The Sky : Regular Route (5.9+ C3+)
By: Brian Hansen When: Nov 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ken, we added at least one bolt to each belay station at your suggestion. They were good bolts for the time (3/8" Star drives with Leeper hangers) which obviously suck by today's standards. A clean ascent of this is pretty impressive, in my opinion. Also, wish I could say I had done the Salathe, but can't. That was Ellwood. -Brian Hansen
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : The Spire
By: Brian Hansen When: Aug 24, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone have info on the two new bolted lines on the Spire?
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : The Sentinel : Fogline (5.10a)
By: Brian Hansen When: Aug 20, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fine route that will be even better when it cleans up a bit.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : South Prow (5.7)
By: Brian Hansen When: Jul 7, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: William, the description of the first pitch in the above write-up sums it up well. We found it pretty easily, without having read this description first. Scramble up the gully on the left side of the prow. A few hundred feet up the gully, a sloping ledge leads out to the right (south). A few tens of feet out to the right on this ledge, there is a big flake with a wide crack behind its left side. This steep portion is about 20-25 feet tall. Climbing the flake provides access to the prow.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: Brian Hansen When: Jul 7, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm pretty sure the FA was by Eric Winkelman and Ken Trout, mid '80s.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Aquarium Wall : Gish (5.10a)
By: Brian Hansen When: Jun 24, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route in a nice setting. Two stars for sure. Didn't need any supplemental pro; the bolts seemed well placed and not too far apart. It's relatively easy to avoid the obvious loose flake near the eighth bolt. The crux of the climb may be getting your shoes on in the sloping, wet ferns just above the creek. Be careful not to let your pack roll in.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock
By: Brian Hansen When: Apr 28, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did D7 as a nail up in 1972 at age 15 with a stronger partner age 17.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Stonehenge : Thought Control (5.9)
By: Brian Hansen When: Apr 18, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second set of anchors farther up the ridge that Tony mentions in his Mountaineer's Route description is probably at the top of a west-facing route called Auspice (.11c?), established by Dan Michael in 1987. We used this anchor when establishing Thought Control. The lower anchor for Thought Control was added later.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : The Regular Route (5.11c)
By: Brian Hansen When: Jan 7, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, that occurred to me after posting. Apologies.BH
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : The Regular Route (5.11c)
By: Brian Hansen When: Jan 6, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this as an aid route many moons ago (1987). I seem to recall needing mostly small to moderate gear for the first pitch, a wide variety of things for the second pitch (like a couple of big pieces, 4 friend or so), and then a few small pins for the third pitch. Not sure how the new bolt would affect the aid rating for the third pitch. -Brian Hansen
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Anthill Direct (5.8 R)
By: Brian Hansen When: Dec 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is another way to get on Anthill Direct without doing Touch 'n Go or the original first pitch. It used to be called "Variation to the Lower Meadow" but I'm not sure if that name has stuck. It's about 5.6 or so and pretty good quality. Just climb the obvious ramp left of Redguard Route's first pitch for about 100 feet and belay (near where T&G's first pitch comes up). Then angle up and slightly right, over an overhang that is easier than it appears and then straight up to the Lower Mead... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : South East Arete/Second (5.7)
By: Brian Hansen When: Nov 16, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would have to disagree. This is a fine destination climb, given the crowds on nearby rocks. No one is ever on the SE ridge. And what better way to climb the Second, besides scrambling up the descent route?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : South Prow (5.7)
By: Brian Hansen When: Jul 24, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good description and agrees with the line my wife and I took on 7/21/02. On pitch 5, we angled left to the prow and were rewarded. After treading lightly on a few loose blocks, a short steep headwall on white rock (5.7, fixed hex) led to a wide chimney and then the flat grassy terrace at the top of the south prow. It was natural to continue up the remainder of the prow to the summit, as described above.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain
By: Brian Hansen When: Jun 17, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mayber retro-bolting isn't the right term.... certainly many if not all of the bolts could stand to be replaced. Yes there are a few Star Dryvins, but most of the bolts are 1/4" split shaft button heads, 1 1/4" long. At the belays, 1/4" by 1 1/2" bolts were used.
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