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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Renaissance Wall : Pharoah's Child (5.10a)
By: Brian Espe When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really liked this route, but I wouldn't say it's one of the best 5.10 pitches on the book. The gear was generally good, and got better the higher you climbed. I thought it was solid 5.10, with a variety of climbing styles. I would do this route again.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Brian Espe When: Mar 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I liked this route. I thought it was a little tough for the grade, but really just because the gear above the roof was crappy and hard to place. There is a bomber #2 BD at your feet when pulling crux. I would also suggest bringing a #4 BD if you have it. The upper 40 feet is easy, but without a #4 I had to run it out.
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Location: WA : North Cascades : Washington Pass : North Early Winter Spire : The West Face (5.11-)
By: Brian Espe When: Feb 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fantastic climb in an amazing area. The thin 11- crux is short and hard. I found the jams and locks to be really technical. The last pitch felt easier than 10c. I seem to remember it rated as 10a in our guide, but it's a really good pitch too. I dragged a #5 all the way up there but it was too small for the wide crack.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Barfy's Favorite (5.7)
By: Brian Espe When: Jan 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I freed a blue rope that was stuck on top of the first pitch. It is currently sitting at the base of the route. If it isn't removed within a week or so I'll bring it down. Feel free to email me if it isn't there. budooks@hotmail.com
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Jurassic Park : Mud in Your Eye (5.11b)
By: Brian Espe When: Oct 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the bolts at the top of this climb wiggles.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : In Between (aka Right Dihed... (5.9 R)
By: Brian Espe When: Aug 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this as a variation to the Culp but reached the traverse differently. It took us two pitches to reach the pink slab. My partner belayed at top of the dihedral in an area of crappy rock. I then pulled to the right around an arete onto the slab. I thought it protected well enough...maybe a piece every 10-15 feet. The fixed cam was still there. Both this and the next dihedral pitch are rated 5.9 in Gillett's guide and felt soft to me.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Flying Buttress (5.10b)
By: Brian Espe When: Jul 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have the utmost respect for this climb. I simply didn't think I could climb it from the base, but utilizing both walls I was able to squirm my way to the final offwidth, where I then proceeded to weenie my way to the top. I was still breathing hard when my partner reached the belay bolts. Great route-a little hard for the grade!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Missing Link (5.10d)
By: Brian Espe When: May 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I liked this variation. I've climbed it twice, both times in the winter of '07, and it wasn't covered in bird crap. I agree that it is a little harder than Grandmother's Challenge.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Brian Espe When: Mar 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. After doing the route in 4 pitches (only linking 4&5) I would agree that doing it in 3 by linking 2&3, and 4&5 would be the way to go. You can also add a harder 1st pitch that goes at 10b/c called Chick on the Side. It spanked me pretty hard, but it pops you out on the ledge that Handcracker starts on.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Blackout (5.10a)
By: Brian Espe When: Oct 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the climbing in the dihedral was a little dirty but still fun. The pigeon crack was horrible, which is too bad, because otherwise it would have been fun. The second pitch was a choss pile, with one decent move. I would not do this route again.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Mission Impossible (5.10a)
By: Brian Espe When: Aug 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my first 10a, and I thought it was a good one. While you can't place gear above you for the first 10a section, you have a bomber #1 BD at your feet. I placed a purple TCU in the flake which was alright, and then made a move higher to find good gear. Fun climb with thoughtful moves.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Center Route (5.6)
By: Brian Espe When: Sep 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I did this route on 9/4/05 the first part of the 3rd pitch was covered in moss, and a hold broke off while my partner was moving around to the right of the mung. The off-width section was completely run out for about 30 feet, but the climbing was easy and enjoyable. Good route, but it was a little dirty.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Brian Espe When: Aug 1, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this route on 7/30/05 exactly as Mark Robbins described it. It is one of the best, it not THE BEST climb I've done to date. I took a look at the "true head crack", best decided to climb the one Mark Robbins describes to the right instead because it look much more fun. Stellar!!!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
By: Brian Espe When: Jun 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the crux of the route to be the 4th class moves after the 4 Aces. While the climbing wasn't very hard, the exposure was intense. As we passed the serious scrambling after the 4th Ace, we had to cross some snow fields, and in doing so we set off some "wet slides". This was scary. Great route up an amazing mountain.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: Brian Espe When: May 7, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is about as good as it gets. I liked the first pitch a lot, too. I led the 3rd pitch and found the bulge awkward but not too bad. After moving into the wide gully, I cut hard left and up through a flared crack. This is not the standard route, is harder at 5.9, and a little mungy. Let me just say one more time, this route is GREAT!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : White Whale (5.7)
By: Brian Espe When: Apr 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack on the 2nd pitch is about as good as it gets! The 3rd pitch is a little run out.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Greatest Route (5.8)
By: Brian Espe When: Mar 23, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like to set up the first belay in a huge crack before you would cut left to the ledge. The ledge is a great belay spot, but you have to make a some what unpretected traverse left, then the next pitch has to start with an unprotected traverse back right. This climb has two great pitches and then a couple of easy ones. The roof on the second pitch has BOMBER jugs, and there is a great hold to help you clear it, but I'm not going to ruin it by telling you where they are!
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Theodore (5.6)
By: Brian Espe When: Mar 23, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good route to solo for those comfortable doing so. The first pitch is a great hand crack with plenty of stuff to help on the sides. After that going up is a matter of choice, and there are some really fun face moves higher up. I usually move left around the huge roof, and then keep angling slightly to right. A fun finish is to crank a roof above a flatter section directly to the summit.
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