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Location: CT : Central- Traprock : East Peak : Ampitheatre : Dol Guldur (5.11 PG13)
By: Brian When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just like most things climbing related in CT there seems to be a controversy. In this case a disagreement on how this climb is spelled: Dol Guldur - Dol Guldor. So it gets two entries? Seeing as though Ken Nichols first did it shouldn't his spelling (Dol Guldur) be the route name?
Mobley, This climb is not just a TR. It has been led trad many many times.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Lady's Lament-Boldville (5.8)
By: Brian When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lady's Lament is 5.10- in both Williams (black) and Swain. You have it listed as Lament-Boldville. Is this a link-up?
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Location: MA : Joe's Rock
By: Brian When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: See www.climbri.com for route descriptions for this crag.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Many Happy Returns (5.9+)
By: Brian When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't know much about local ratings but this is an east coast 5.8.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Andrew (5.4 PG13)
By: Brian When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The top can be easly reached from the GT ledge with a single rope and judicious use of 2 ft runners. If you are a new leader and getting rope drag just build an anchor.
The description of P3 above is the way many (most?) people do it due to protection issues but it is actually a variation (at least according to the black Williams guidebook). The original route goes right up to a flaky left facing corner with some very old pins and ends up in the same rightward diaginal.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Blistered Toe (5.8)
By: Brian When: Jul 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The direct start is a fun bouldering move with little fingers. There really is no sense in putting in pro until you make the move and get the good hand to the left. I thought it was pretty hard but what Gunks 5.9+ isn't?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Dis-Mantel (5.9)
By: Brian When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is a 5.10 in both Williams and Swain which I found to be about right and the first bulge is definitely harder than the second "roof" which is rated at 5.8 in Swain. Not that the difference between 5.9 and 5.10 is significant but I think that people who are substantially taller or shorter than average who rate climbs skew the ratings, particularly at the Gunks where many climbs are reach dependent.
5.8 for 6'2" or taller
5.9 for 6'0" to 6'2"
5.10 for under 6'0"
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Trusty Rifle (5.7)
By: Brian When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Read Swain's guidebook versus Williams for this route. It is Swain's route. As mentioned...It starts on the ground at an overhanging offwidth crack and is rated 5.9. Very strenuous.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Tequila Mockingbird (5.6)
By: Brian When: May 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "How could this be 5.6?" you ask. It isn't. Both Williams and Swain rate this 5.7+. At least in my guidebooks.
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Mount Huntington : Perennial (5.9 PG13)
By: Brian When: Apr 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know if "Perennial" goes to the right or left of "Once is Enough"? It appears from the route photo that it is in the same vicinity. I was looking for "Perennial" last year and ended up doing "Once is Enough" (which is an appropriate name).
Brian
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Beginner's Delight (5.4)
By: Brian When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On pitch 2 the original route starts diagonalling left about twenty feet up. Look for a traverse with good feet. Once you go out about 15 feet you will see a piton clip that and diagonal across the face where you will find a few pitons to clip. This pitch is why it is rated PG. Many beginning leaders go straight up the corner on pitch 2 (better gear). They use slings that are too short putting a 90 degree bend in the rope when the start the traverse resulting in really bad rope drag. If yo... more >>
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Location: International : Photo
By: Brian When: Feb 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Angle is about 45 degrees. Easy climbing but poor protection and lots of loose rocks. Like climbing a slate roof with pebbles on it. There are steel bars in situ at each belay that the guides must have installed. There is an alternative approach to the hut that traverses the cliff but it had snow on it when we were there.
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Location: CT : Southeast
By: Brian When: Feb 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ross Pond is not in southeast CT. It is in Northeast CT and is a state park. For info on Lantern Hill and Ross Pond see: www.climbri.com
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Classic Corner (5.8)
By: Brian When: Feb 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought that this was a true 5.8 compared to Red Rock's generally soft ratings. Handren rated it 5.8 in his new guidebook. A few grunty moves. Fun route to do when it is too cold/windy in the canyons.
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Location: International
By: Brian When: Nov 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: greez,
I was only in Switzerland for two weeks and had no problem finding long moderate trad routes. What about the Engelhorner?
Brian
>>>
am from Switzerland and I am in love with trad climbing. It is not easy to get information about trad climbs here at all. We do not have a DB like UK climbing... We do have dozens of climbing guides for bolted sport stuff but none for trad climbs (except the "keep wild" guide which only includes long alpine cl... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Brian When: Nov 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot Heather!
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Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Main Cliff : Wishbone (5.7)
By: Brian When: Nov 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A real grunt-fest through the chimney section. My second tried climbing the face instead and finally gave up and crawled inside the chimney muttering expletives.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Columbia (5.8)
By: Brian When: Oct 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Formally 5.7?? Swain had it at 5.8+ and Williams (Black ed.) had it had 5.9-.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Arrow (5.8)
By: Brian When: Oct 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To the right of the bolt is 5.8. To the left is 5.8 Gunks. ;-) Cheating beta for left move... Bring your right foot up almost directly below the bolt where there is a small foot placement. Mantle off your left hand which is palm down on the obvious hold to your left. Squirm up and reach the crimper with your right hand.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiak Dome : House Calls (5.7)
By: Brian When: Jul 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The name of this route is House Calls. Check Reid's guide book "Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows" 3rd edition. The route in his topo that is farthest to the right is House Calls. He Reid rates it a 5.6x although I think "R" is more appropriate. It starts at the manky anchor with a couple of blue slings on it, goes up to one old bolt, and follows the overlaps to the ledge where Z-Tree and The Dike Route finish up. The last pitch up the steep corner is actually the finish to The Dike Route whic... more >>
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Location: International
By: Brian When: May 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Christian. International section needs some work. For example, I can't believe that Switzerland isn't represented. I know it is easy to point out the problem and not provide the solution but it really needs someone from the particular country to take in on. Or perhaps it should just link out to a site that does maintain country data like UK Climbing.
Brian
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Roadside Rock : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love those JT cracks!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cookie Monster (5.7)
By: Brian When: Mar 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done Cat-In-The-Hat a few times and except for the last pitch I don't get the five star rating. Cookie Monster, on the other hand, is, I believe, a nicer line straight up to the last pitch of Cat, it has bomber pro, and it avoids the cluster fugs of people. Maybe Cookie is not so popular because it is not in Swain's book and you have to build anchors. ??
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Salud (5.8)
By: Brian When: Jul 26, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route last week. Great job bolting it. The bolts are judiciously placed so they are only there when gear isn't available. A leader can concentrate on the climbing and not worry about the fall potential. This will be a popular one when the word gets out.Brian
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: Brian When: Sep 27, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed the route in 1995 with my then 11-year old son. It was a great adventure. Moved a lot slower than anticipated. Route finding wasn't difficult. For more photos and trip report see: www.climbri.com/longs.htm
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