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Rock Climbing Photo: Eiger summit


Member Since: Sep 27, 2001
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,009
Total Points: 775
Last Year: 150
Last 30 Days: 27
33 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 936 | Routes 5 | Areas 5 | Photos 85 | Page Improvements | Comments 225 | Posts 565 | Stars 7 | Ratings 44
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Rhode Island : Snake Den : Temporary Snake Den Sub-Are... : The Land Down Under (5.10+)
By: Brian When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: Kasey,

The first parking lot coming from RT 6 or the first lot from RT 5? I may have climbed on that cliff before but whether I've done that exact route is doubtful.
There is an old guidebook on my website. climbri.org/snake.htm

Brian


Location: CT : CT Bouldering : Mystic Areas : Dark Hollow
By: Brian When: May 1, 2016

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Comments: There is lots of rock in the area. Some even tall enough to climb. The problem is most is on private land.

Rock Climbing Photo: Gales Ferry Cliffs
Gales Ferry Cliffs


Rock Climbing Photo: Pohegnut cliff
Pohegnut cliff



Location: Rhode Island
By: Brian When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: I'm not sure if any of you are aware of this, I wasn't, but the RI State Park Regulations have changed with regard to rock climbing. It use to just say that rock climbing was permitted in all state parks and management areas except for Fort Wetherill. It now requires a waiver of liability (section below). You can get a copy of the waiver here: climbri.org/DEM-Waiver.pdf You may want to have a copy in your car or pack in case a DEM cop ever asks for it.

"17.9 Rock climbing is perm... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Flare (5.10-)
By: Brian When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: You can rap this route with a single 60m rope if you traverse right to the anchor on top of Corona for the last rappel.


Location: Rhode Island : Snake Den
By: Brian When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Nickgrai,

Is the cliff down in the southeast area of Snake Den not far from the powerlines and Belfield Drive? If so, I've climbed there. If not, check this place out. JoeM told me about it.

Rock Climbing Photo: Snake Den South
Snake Den South



Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock
By: Brian When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: I've heard this pronounced "Tah-keetz" and "Tah-quits." I've read that the Native Americans pronounce it Tah-keetz but I've heard climbers call it Tah-quits. Which is it?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Black Wall (aka Happy Acres... : All that, Jazz (5.8)
By: Brian When: Apr 12, 2016

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Comments: There is some confusion as to this climb and Geriatric Therapy. Apparently some people consider going left up the left facing corner to the bolted belay and then on to a third pitch a variation of Geriatric Therapy and some a different climb(All That Jazz). For example, the Handren guidebook considers it a variation of Geriatric Therapy. If you look at the photos for the two climbs they show the same left facing corner second pitch. mountainproject.com/v/10804631...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Black Wall (aka Happy Acres... : Geriatric Therapy (5.8)
By: Brian When: Apr 12, 2016

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Comments: There is some confusion as to this climb and All That Jazz. Apparently some people consider the variation of going left up the left facing corner to the bolted belay and then on to a third pitch a different climb(All That Jazz). Some people (Handren guidebook) consider it a variation of Geriatric Therapy. If you look at the photos for the two climbs they show the same (variation) second pitch.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Yup...you are right on. Your chimney was a good reference. It is exactly 29 feet from the highest point to the lowest point of the main cliff. The Firewall is 22 feet. I did some climbs on Firewall that I haven't done in at least 20 years. The rock is as chossy as I remember it.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Firewall
By: Brian When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: When we lobbied the RI DEM back in the Spring of 2010 to specifically include climbing in the new "RI Park and Management Area Rules and Regulations" they had included a provision about no fixed gear. Working behind the scenes we got that taken out. So bolting is neither approved nor prohibited. So if you are discreet about it then it shouldn't be a problem.

From the DEM regulations:

17.9 Rock climbing is permitted at state parks, and management areas except at Fort Wetherill State Park... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: Jeff, Main cliff 35 feet tall? Did you measure it? I doubt it is that tall. More like 20 feet tall. I was there today. Next time I'm there I'll measure it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Black Wall (aka Happy Acres... : All that, Jazz (5.8) : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: Isn't this the same pitch as Geriatric Therapy? It sure looks the same.

mountainproject.com/v/10804631...


Location: Europe : Turkey
By: Brian When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: With an exception of a small portion of Turkey where there are no major climbing areas Turkey is in Asia not Europe. It is in the wrong area.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Main Wall : Main Wall
By: Brian When: Feb 8, 2016

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Comments: I asked Whitey about this climb. He said the roof was done 2 ways, one direct at 5.11 by Mack Johnson contrived because of off routing holds to the left and he believes that the line of least resistance was lead by Team Tough (5.10).
He also gave me the names of a couple of the lines that were previously done.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Main Wall : Main Wall
By: Brian When: Feb 6, 2016

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Comments: As far as I know it has never been done but some of the guys who climbed here way back (Whitey and Neil) may know more about it. It looks hard. You can see the crack in the topo photo here. climbri.org/mttom.htm


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Main Wall
By: Brian When: Jan 29, 2016

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Comments: And everyone always wore socks with our climbing shoes.


Location: Europe : Switzerland : Eiger : Ostegg Hut to Mittellegi Hu... (5.9) : Photo
By: Brian When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: Here you go...this is a shot of the same glacier I took ten years earlier. August 1st 2005.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eismeer glacier from Mittellegi hut.
Eismeer glacier from Mittellegi hut.



Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Breakheart Ledge
By: Brian When: Jan 5, 2016

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Comments: Glad you are getting out there. The area needs some love. Be careful, I pulled a 50lb block off one of the routes on the right end.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Children's Crag
By: Brian When: Jan 3, 2016

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Comments: That climb is called Zee Bee Dee or something like that. I agree it is no 5.10. At the Gunks 5.8 tops.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : Comment : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 26, 2015

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Comments: Hog Nose snake. Also known as a Puff Adder.


Location: NH : WM: Oliverian Notch : Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian... : Big Wall : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: "Your topo looks to me what I would call the right hand route."

CORRECTION: I'm not sure which right hand route you mean? The very right hand route is the 5.5 grungy corner. Revelations, as I did it, is multi-pitch but according to Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing New England" it shares the first pitch belay with Energizer and then finishes up Energizer. Green's line matches my route except he has it as three pitches and I'm pretty sure I did it as two.


Location: NH : WM: Oliverian Notch : Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian... : Big Wall : Spare Ribs (5.11+ R)
By: Brian When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: "Because this cliff is Basalt, hand drilling bolt holes was slow and arduous."

Basalt? It doesn't look like basalt so I looked it up. According to the USGS it is granite.
pubs.usgs.gov/pp/1516/report.pdf


Location: NH : WM: Oliverian Notch : Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian... : Big Wall : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 11, 2015

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Comments: Here's my contribution to the topos. This is the only route I remember and remember may be an overstatement as I did it a long time ago. So if anyone wants me to accurize it let me know where it is off. The route is Revelations 5.10- on the right (east) end of the cliff.
Go along the east end of the cliff until you get to a grungy left arching corner. This is where the relatively clean slabs end. To the left of that look up and you should see a bolt(s). There are two routes here. The one ... more >>


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: I think that the person was trying to do the right thing in painting the hanger but just doesn't have much knowledge/experience. So instead of the default Mountain Project response of beating on him/her I think it is a better approach to provide some constructive guidance. If you want to paint the hanger and bolt while on the rock you can get a piece of thin cardboard and trace the hanger on that. Then cut that out so that the cardboard just fits over the hanger. Place the cardboard over the... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area
By: Brian When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: I climbed on a small cliff off of Meadowbrook trail many years ago. It is not actually in the Carolina Management area. It is on private land just north of Kenyon Hill Trail. That's the only one I know of in that area.


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