Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jul 12, 2001
Last Visit: Mar 10, 2006
Contact Brian Sorden


Point Rank: # 7,365
Total Points: 39
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brian Sorden been climbing?










Contributions


All 29 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvments | Comments 19 | Posts | Stars 4 | Ratings 2
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Lynn below the "power moves" to the anchor, one very hot day.

Lynn below the "power moves" to the anchor, one very hot day.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Evictor (5.12c R)

Aug 30, 2004

Sorry.... THIS is the palm move.

Sorry.... THIS is the palm move.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Break on Through (5.10b)

Mar 23, 2004

This is the trick as someone mentioned - <br />palm out right to get the left foot high on a positive edge, then stem your right foot. one move (but hella fun) <br />over a ledge

This is the trick as someone mentioned - palm out right to get the left foot high on a positive edge, then stem your right foot. one move (but hella fun) over a ledge

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Break on Through (5.10b)

Mar 23, 2004

Right at the 10 ft crux.

Right at the 10 ft crux.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Reggae (5.8)

Sep 15, 2003

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Cussin' Crack (5.7)
By: Brian Sorden When: Oct 27, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: I loved this climb... Well, you could call it a love/hate sorta thing. Three stars for several reasons: This was [definitely] a departure from the routes you are going to see at gym or your local sport crag. Nasty full body climbing for most of this route. Shows what was considered a good route before modern climbing shoes were around. I also have a special place in my heart for a route that is rated 5.7 but makes me think and sweat as much as this did. Great, safe route that still takes y... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Life on Mars (5.10a)
By: Brian Sorden When: Oct 11, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: As long as we're spewing, I also lead this free in 1999. Never considered it worth any mention and definitely not worth a single bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Land of Ra (5.11a)
By: Brian Sorden When: Sep 25, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with Gary, the shallow dihedral is a perfectly acceptable way to avoid the serious face move to the first bolt, and should be considered a variation for the quality of the left-traversing moves. I love this route. The anchor bolts should be moved to the solid block three feet above to avoid the sharp, loose edge. A 60m rope is sufficient to reach the tree between the 2nd and 3rd fin, and will get you almost all the way to the belay tree for Ichiban with an easy five-foot downclimb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Highway of Diamonds (5.9+)
By: Brian Sorden When: Sep 25, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Another crux comment. I'm sure we cheated the route by moving farther right, to "Land of Ra" and proceeding up and then left to the arete, but the move straight up is 5.10 tricky and a little run out (potential 20 foot whipper.) Having said that, I certainly appreciate the sandbag gifts of our predecessors, it keeps Eldo real and interesting.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Moonlight Drive (5.10b PG13)
By: Brian Sorden When: Sep 25, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: If you didn't find any gear between the third and fourth bolts, it's because it's at your feet when you're standing on the big ledge. Set two opposing small stoppers. Maybe it was the comfort of clipping bolts, but the second pitch seemed no harder than 5.9. I certainly concur with all the [trepidation] expressed over the first pitch death flakes. Pull carefully.


Location: CO : Boulder : CU Campus
By: Brian Sorden When: Oct 3, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Because I guess I started this banter, I want the last word here. Buildering is not something we do because we're too weak to climb real rock. We don't do it because we're too poor to go to The Spot. We do it because it's there and we're there. I would never imagine someone traveling to CU to check this stuff out. I did it between math and physics classes, while everyone else out there was smoking or talking on cell phones. I did it to unwind, out of boredom, not to replace free climbing. ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : North Face (5.7)
By: Brian Sorden When: Jan 18, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Lone Eagle Peak changed my life forever. After running in from Monarch, with climbing gear, 80 oz. of water between my partner and I and very little else, we had a brief lunch at the base, and began scrambling to the top. Our ascent of the approach pitches we're done mostly solo and very fast. At the grassy ledge below the summit headwall we ro-sham-boed for the lead and I won (sort of). Although Roach's book states clearly that one must spend some time studying the rock before firing off, I ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Brian Sorden When: Dec 7, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: More thanks to Dale, Bruce, and the ASCA for replacing the first anchor. I'd offer to replace the bent, half-out lost arrow, but I fear the retribution, and it held my 190 lbs. just fine. I also protected the start with a #4 offset and a cam in the slot, but only after sliding off down to the block. Excellent Eldo 5.9!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Verschneidung (5.7)
By: Brian Sorden When: Sep 24, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: 'Verschneidung' is German for "dihedral." If the V-slot were 100 feet longer it would be the most popular 5.7 on the West Ridge. Walk your cams and don't tape your hands.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon
By: Brian Sorden When: Sep 22, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: The rock across the creek from Lost Angel, downstream from the Terrace is called "Irish Holiday" and the bolted route is called "Spiders and Snakes" (5.12b). This route was cleaned, bolted and had its first free ascent by Bob Horan in the Autumn of 1998, assisted and belayed by myself and Mark Winstead. There is a short crack to the right of this route which finishes with the last three bolts on the rock, done free by me, then Mark, and named "Jack Hunter" (5.8). This is mentioned for posteri... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Old Stage Road
By: Brian Sorden When: Jul 2, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Um, forgive me if I am incorrect, but isn't most of this area still on private land?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: Brian Sorden When: Aug 24, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: The first and second pitches combine nicely, and are perfect examples of what is Eldo 5.9. The roof above Grandmother's ledge is stellar, protect under the roof and just go. As Matt mentioned, this area is very popular, which comes with two warnings. Bring your helmet, but don't forget your social cap. Due to the volume of traffic under these routes and the loose nature of all the barney on the Red Ledge, be warned; a small rock from that height can be fatal. Watch yourself, watch... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northcutt Start (5.10d)
By: Brian Sorden When: Aug 24, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Adendum to the historical note. This was the first 5.10 in Colorado, and very possibly the first in America. Not only was Northcutt sandbagged into doing it in 1959, there wasn't another 5.10 done in Colorado until well into the sixties. I do support the 10d rating. The "trick" is a tiny foot cup stemming right onto the arete, two inches below a small upside down triangular lip.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Rainbow Wall (5.13a)
By: Brian Sorden When: Aug 23, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Just for posterity, it is interesting to highlight the fact that this was the first 5.13 in Colorado, and was surrounded by some debate. The debate involved a cry baby named CG and his cronies laboring on this wall, fruitlessly, for a long time when they'd like you to believe Bob Horan walked in and stole CG's route. Bob received bitter, egotistical crap for his acheivement, not accolade. Buy him a beer sometime, he'll tell you the whole story. Then find CG and see if he'll even talk to you,... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Mr. Natural (5.8+)
By: Brian Sorden When: Aug 23, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Rossiter gives FA to Robert Crumb, the cartoon artist who conceived Mr. Natural back in the hippie days. So was the first ascensionist just a stoned art enthusiast or did he lead it naked with a long white beard?


Location: CO : Boulder : CU Campus
By: Brian Sorden When: Aug 23, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Everybody knows about the slated buildering that exists on the first level of the Engineering Center. I've seen some of the more obscure man-made problems sent by Tom Gage (i.e. under the stairs and in the corners.) This is a great place to build forearm strength but a much better venue for meeting young college women. Keep a secret? Check out the underground sandstone block party behind Macky Auditorium. M'kay. BTW: Has anyone ever possessed the cajones to scale the Math building?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Eumenides (5.8)
By: Brian Sorden When: Jul 31, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: After my near epic on this classic moderate, I enjoyed reading all the other comments. To the "unprotected" left traverse at the top of the first pitch, I sunk three great pieces before the belay. That girl should be pissed that she wasn't protected against the swing. I thought the first and third pitch were worth the approach. Yes, there are other routes on Sundance, but Eumenides offers a long route with interesting features and a shaded first pitch if you start early. Sundance is all abo... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge
By: Brian Sorden When: Jul 30, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Food for thought: Having a chat with one of the park's rangers one day, we asked him what climb/area produces the most injuries/ accidents. His response was that 70% of the injuries he knew of in recent years occur on "J crack," mostly due to the minimally protected traverse. Be safe out there, and protect the second.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Autumn (5.11a)
By: Brian Sorden When: Jul 12, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: It's well known that Bob Horan established this aptly named three-pitch bolt line. The first moves are maybe 10b, and the cruxy topout is 10b/c (my opinion) though it's the one move that officially makes this route an 11. There is a 5.9 exit for the timid, but you'll still have to climb 10b to get to it. Named "Autumn" because every other time of the year you're gonna get your feet wet.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Land of Ra 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag

Cussin' Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CO : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock

Moonlight Drive 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag

Highway of Diamonds 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Moonlight Drive

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag

Life on Mars

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

CO : Boulder : ... : Lost Angel

Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>