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Location: WY : 4 Stories Snowy Range Sport...
By: Brian Scoggins When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: No. If Dingus is still developing it, then he and (I assume) Zach have not yet reached the point where a worthwhile book could be attempted.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Brian Scoggins When: May 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recall checking a long time ago, to see what busses ran to and from Casper. The short version is not a lot. You might be able to catch one from Casper to Buffalo, but that's still on the other side of Powder River Pass from where you want to go. Good luck!
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Drugs and Sex : Dickin's Cider (5.12c)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Apr 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is pretty tame, compared to some of the names out there. And anyway, Ten Sleep has never been much for taking itself too seriously.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: Brian Scoggins When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nick, I was referring specifically to the decent off of Klondike, which is a full 60m. If my partner and I had only packed the 70, we would've had a lot of time to contemplate the mistake. I didn't bother with the Bowling Alley rappels, for obvious reasons.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : 700S Boulders : Unknown 2 (5.10- V0-) : Photo
By: Brian Scoggins When: Nov 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It isn't. The boulder in question is barely 8 feet tall.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : 700S Boulders : Crystal Ladder (V0+ PG13)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Nov 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know this has been done before 2012, if for no other reason than because I watched Rob Phares (maybe, could've been Ben Pickerel, or somebody else entirely, they all blur together after awhile) do it in 2010. I'm all but certain it's been done before that.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Depends on your comfortability with the exposure. We untied, but a party following us did not. Its much MUCH easier than any terrain you have to climb to get to it, and I don't really recall any details about the pro.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : 700S Boulders : Beer Crack (V3)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The beta I was shown (but never actually succeeded with) involved getting a right-arm chicken wing and struggling up until you can get your foot on that big hold.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : Zorro Area : Little Sport (5.11b)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's another sequence that uses a crimp to allow a static move to that pocket, which makes the crux much easier for small folks. Its a very small crimp though, so I didn't use it.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Pronghorn Pinnacle (5.8)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thin, balancy, slopey. More reminiscent of a granite slab.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Saddle Up (5.9)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The three climbs here are sort of framed by trees, and all have a hard start to a horizontal break, followed by very easy (but somewhat runout) climbing.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Hangin' Tree (5.9)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I mistakenly uploaded the photo to "Saddle Up", but the route is, in fact Hangin' Tree.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : wind river muzzel loaders (5.9-)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hangin' Tree is two left of Ticks For Chicks. I haven't done Wind River Muzzle Loaders.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway : Strawberry Jam (5.8)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The final 30' have two options:
Go up and left towards the final anchors via an easy but completely unprotected slab.
OR
Go right into the squeeze chimney. It has some good hand jams right where it gets wide enough to start wriggling up (so all the way in the back). The downside is that the final few moves to the anchors are also unprotected but licheny and loose too.
The slab is probably easiest, but 30 feet off of a cam and 10 feet off of a cam, if you're still reeling from the offwidth, wi... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Zig Zag (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Despite being a bit off route, you can get to a massive tree above the dying slung tree if you have a 70m rope. This provides one of the few really comfortable belay stances on the entire route.
I found protection difficult to find, and not exactly confidence inspiring between the cruxes (e.g. the overhang with the slung block, and the second overhang with the offwidth splitting it) but well protected at the cruxes.
Despite being the easiest, I found the 3rd pitch to be the best in terms of a... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Sugar Crack (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's a protection bolt for that slab which, if memory serves, was an Orenzak route. It's been there since I first did Sugar Crack, back in 2003 or 2004.
Tangentially, I really REALLY wish people would stop throwing around bolt chopping as some sort of legitimate approach to climbing management at Vedauwoo. We've had a spectacularly amicable relationship with the Forest Service, and I'd hate to see that go away because certain people insist on a strict ground-up ethic that's historically ali... more >>
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : a man from laramie (5.10c)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route two lines right of Ticks for Chicks is actually Dirty Sally, and has very junky rock at the start. The Man From Laramie is now the third line right of Ticks for Chicks.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Left Side : Three Charlies (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Warning! Useful route description to follow:
Location - Pillar down and right from the big Poker Face Alice roof. Look for a little castle-turret thing to belay from.
Description - Both climbs share their final 3 bolts, but the left variation starts left of the crack splitting the base of the pillar above the turret, the right starts right of the crack. The left variant has better holds, but further apart, and you can deck if you blow it before the third bolt. The right variant has smaller,... more >>
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Wild Horses Wall : Jackalope & Boomslang (5.10a)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: While its true that there isn't any crux per se, the moves to the anchor feel the most insecure, provided you follow the good holds out left. It might be harder, but with a better fall, to go straight up from the last bolt.
Stays in the shade longer than most of the other routes around here.
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Location: WY : Snowy Range : Gooseneck Couloir (AI1 Mod. Snow)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jun 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: When we got on it, June 16, 2012, about 4 inches of snow covered very good ice in many spots.
This couloir seems to lose its cornice fairly early in the season, a rarity for Snowy Range couloirs. Its also over very fast.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Wall-To-Wall (5.8-)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jun 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: To descend, walk towards Finally, and do a simple downclimb to get to the Slat descent chimney.
Also, this route is 30', max.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6) : Photo
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jun 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kevin, by that reasoning, no cams would work, ever. The springs have nothing to do with camming, the coefficient of static friction between rock and metal are what determines whether or not camming can occur. Otherwise, e.g. tricams would not work.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Unnamed Crack (the other on... (5.9)
By: Brian Scoggins When: May 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Incredibly slick start, but you can get a nut that protects the start from the ground (if you're tall). Note that the easiest way off is to downclimb the 5.0 face below and climber's left of the tree, then down over the boulder, climber's left.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Sunnyside Bench : Sunnyside Bench Regular Rou... (5.5)
By: Brian Scoggins When: May 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The walkoff, especially in its current, early-season state, is a strong counter argument to doing this route. Do you need two ropes to rappel?
Also, the 5.5 variation can add a lot of ropedrag, so sling accordingly.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : The Wilds : Earth A.D. (5.9+)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good holds! There's often a bit of dust/cobwebs in the jugs, and they look deep, so watch for spiders. Sinks Canyon needs more routes of this grade and quality!
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