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Member Since: Mar 12, 2002
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Brian Scoggins

Point Rank: # 597
Total Points: 1,197
Last Year: 141
Last 30 Days: 71
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brian Scoggins been climbing?










Contributions


All 1508 | Routes 55 | Areas 12 | Photos 29 | Page Improvements | Comments 323 | Posts 835 | Stars 166 | Ratings 88
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Lander Area
By: Brian Scoggins When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Wild iris is typically inaccessible without a snow mobile until the winter snows recede.
Killer cave, in sinks, being south facing, can have warm days year-round. That said, you'll want clear, warm-ish winter days. 45 and cloudy/windy will be intolerable. 45, sunny, and calm will be the best day of your life.


Location: ID : Salmon River - South Fork : Caton Creek Roadside Ice : Left Curtains (WI2-3) : Photo (Copy)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jan 17, 2016

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Comments: Left curtains are the left most line of pure ice in the photo.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Coyote Essence (5.11)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: The crux of this line is holding onto the layback long enough to get to where *you* can get solid jams.
Clean, without any major cop-out features.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Jolly Rancher (5.10)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: I felt that the offwidth pods took away from the quality of the route, lowering it from "best in Creek" to probably "best at crag". Definitely want to tape on this if your wide hands technique is not on lock.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Cat Got Your Tongue (5.10)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: Despite being mostly tight hands (perfect red camalots), the difficulty is eased both by the slabby angle and the huge amount of face holds to stand on and rest.
Yet another example of "would be 5 stars anywhere else", this route suffers from too many quality rests and its short length.
Our rack was: 1 each from purple master cam to green camalot, 3-4 red camalots, 2-3 yellow camalots. The chimney takes finger gear in the back, so no big gear is needed.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Steeple Peak : West face Major dihedral (5.11 R)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Oct 9, 2015

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Comments: Technically, the policy that bans bolts also bans any other fixed anchors, including slings and fixed nuts. It remains an open issue but the spirit of the Wilderness Act suggests hand drilling or placing a pin, while existing policy (which the Access Fund and others managed to defund enforcement) bans everything, including bail slings in case of emergency.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : Comp Rock - East Face : Handy (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 17, 2015

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Comments: No tape needed. I will say that I wish the upper slab either stopped at the 3rd bolt, where there's a good stance, or kept going. It stops almost precisely at the 100' mark, but not really in a logical location.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Pistol and Holster (5.10-)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: While I don't have the new guidebook in front of me, I've done all the routes between the Pronghorn Pinnacle and Ticks For Chicks, and all of them are present in the new book except this one. There was (might still be) a plaque with sharpy on it, indicating the name, as of when I posted the route.


Location: ID
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: Found: women's shoes at the Comp Wall at Castle Rock State Park. Message me with location and shoe type and I'll get them in the mail to you.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: Found: women's shoes at the Comp Wall. Message me with the location, and the type of shoes, and I'll get them in the mail to you.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Beehive Buttress : Walking the Board (5.10a)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: Kenneth, the Beehive tends to be the most crowded area at Vedauwoo most weekends, afternoons, or anytime people can get away from work. It even beats out the Friday the 13th alcove in terms of human density. Go early, or go elsewhere if you want to climb.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : The Dark Side : Good Friday (5.10a)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Good, stemmy route marred by some sketchy rock down low. One foothold does not look long for the world, and there's an obvious chockstone at about half-height that is inexplicably secure.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : The Dark Side : Safety Dance (5.10b)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Ordinarily I'd be prepared to admit that its just a bad size, but if the learned masters of Mountain Project call this 10b, but think Trimmed Bush is 10a, they're high. This is much easier than Trimmed Bush, and the sections with hard sizes are brief, with good faceholds nearby.
I think this is fair 10a, and Trimmed Bush is fair 10c, for a proficient crack climber.
Also, cams from #1 to #3 friend (e.g. .5 - 2 C4) will take the edge off any runout you may feel. Or doubles in that with... more >>


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla... : Iron Horse with a Twisted H... (5.9)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: Especially if you've been climbing steeper routes with better holds, this one will feel hard and runout compared to other 9s at the Corral. Really not worth doing unless you're trying to push your pitch count higher, and don't want to do so at a higher grade.
Its slabby, the holds are small, and the bolts are below your feet for all of the hard moves.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Left Side (Tribal War, Poke... : Battle for a Wounded Knee (5.10c)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 14, 2015

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Comments: The new guidebook calls this 11a, which I'll accept. The crux is all on jugs, but it's steep and sequencey. It's definitely more sustained than other 10+/11- routes at the corral.
Whatever the grade, this thing is awesome, and totally worth falling off of a few times if you're trying to get into 11s.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Owl Rock : Owl Rock - West : Fledgling (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jun 28, 2015

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Comments: All of the 5.7 is before you get your first piece in, within the first 8 feet of climbing. After that, its not difficult. The upper hand crack is a hoot, but over way too fast. Agreed, not a destination climb, but certainly a good warmup for the crag.
I used nothing smaller than a .75 camalot, and nothing larger than 3.


Location: ID : Mores Mountain : Roadside Rock : Computer Girl (5.9+)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: The 2nd pitch is such a style shift from the 1st pitch, its almost a shame that there isn't something stylistically similar to get you there. The movement is made considerably easier if you're proficient at (very) flared hand jams.


Location: ID : Mores Mountain : Roadside Rock : Backslide (5.10-)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: This is a fun route, but if its climbed as a chimney (and not by climbing the slab right of the chimney), its a LOT easier than its stated grade. The crux is probably getting to the first clip.


Location: ID : Mores Mountain : Roadside Rock : For Whom the Bell Tolls (5.9+)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: The grade is a wild guess. Its really not in keeping with the slabby character of the area, so direct comparisons are difficult.
The name is a placeholder, pending the release of the new guidebook, or the FA speaking up. We called it, simple, "The Flake".
The first two bolts are in the crux, so you might considering a stick clip. You pass an unpleasantly loose chockstone before the 3rd bolt. Act accordingly.
The jams are painful, so tape might be worthwhile. Alternately, add a couple letters to ... more >>


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Mid Cliffs : Loaded Gun (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: Didn't have too much trouble with feces, but there was the beginnings of a nest when I did it the other day.
The offwidth at the top can look intimidating, but there's a crack inside (climber's left) that takes hand-sized pro pretty easily. Largest I placed was an old-style #3.5 camalot (~#4 friend/new style C4). Fortunately, the crux is the finger-crack down low, and there are plenty of holds, rather than just jams, to make that section go.
There's a seriously loose and flexing flak... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : War Zone (5.11b)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Per the first edition of Zach's book, it was a Matt Couppel project. That book came out close to a decade ago though, so if its still a project, it should be reclassified as an open project.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Twin Sisters
By: Brian Scoggins When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: I just checked. While it does paraphrase the bit about the mile-long ridge, and has a similar topic sentence to the 2009 edition, the similarities end there. Its actually much more robust than Bingham's bit. I'm certain that if it was too similar, Bingham (who is quite active on here) would've brought it to the admin's attention.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Mid Cliffs : Bad Ethics (5.10a PG13)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Mar 7, 2015

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Comments: That loose bolt really needs to go. I got suckered into thinking that the roof was an extension (looks that way from the ground), then got up there and found I was wrong. Up to those two bolts is a pleasant, if thin, 5.8


Location: WY
By: Brian Scoggins When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: Just to be clear, you're looking for a backcountry sport climbing crag?

Doesn't exist in Wyoming. You might be able to get in some backpacking in the Lander area by hiking between Sinks and Wild Iris and the other crags, but I've never heard of a sport climbing area that was so far from the road that a dead drill battery would take a 4-day round trip trek to resolve.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Populace Wall : Stems and Jammies (5.8)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: I think this could only be considered 5.8 if you didn't jam for the entire pitch.
I kept waiting for the 5.8 move, and it never happened.
Also, because of the way the crack opens inside, hexes may be more useful than cams for the upper hand-crack.


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