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Member Since: Mar 12, 2002
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact Brian Scoggins

Point Rank: # 625
Total Points: 1,220
Last Year: 102
Last 30 Days: 4
8 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brian Scoggins been climbing?










Contributions


All 1594 | Routes 55 | Areas 12 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 329 | Posts 907 | Stars 168 | Ratings 90
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : East L.A.
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 29, 2016

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Comments: Looks like most (all?) of the stuff from Nats has been cleared out. So that means that everything else here is what is also known as Party Dome/Party Rocks.

To whit: Hang Five and Casual Corner are both listed twice.
Does anybody know if Davin's book predates the new edition of Kelman's book?


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Region : Eagle Mountain : Jack Squirrel Peak Area : Cowgirls Dream (5.8)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: This is listed in Orenzak's guidebook as "mainline", and it's given 5 stars. It also says that you can walk off to climbers left after doing a single rappel.

What isn't stated is that you should plan on leaving slings to do that one rap, since there are no bolts, and that the descent is probably impossible as a walk off. We left some cord and a rap ring.

There's also a metric fuckload ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Plumb Line Crag : Kasha (5.7+)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Hand size-dependent and somewhat awkward. The crux comes high, moving through a pod that can take a #6 Camalot (although you can get s #3 and a #4 above or below that pod, without getting your feet above the pro).

There are two boulders at the top. The lower is probably safe to pull on and jam behind, the other is not long for this world and moves perceptibly if you jam behind it.

Good hand/fist crack


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Old Easy : Reverse Cowgirl (V2) : Photo
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jun 22, 2016

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Comments: Biggest Lips in Rock & Roll is on the opposite side of the boulder from Biggest Tits in Country Music.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo
By: Brian Scoggins When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: Update 5/25/16: Blair Road (705) and its spurs are open. Vedauwoo Road (700) remains closed at the Nautilus, but the plan is to have it open by the weekend. 707 will remain closed due to washout.

As of today, May 23, 2016, every dirt road leading to climbing in Vedauwoo, save that leading to Poland Hill, is blocked by gates. That is, Vedauwoo Road is closed just before the Nautilus and at Happy Jack Road. Blair-Wallis Road is closed at the Lincoln Memorial, at Old Highway 30, and along Happy Ja... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Belly Full of Bad Berries (5.13a)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: I think it's more good-natured ribbing than malicious. The hard-charging off width climbing community can come off as a bunch of pricks if you don't realize they're taking the piss. And some are also just assholes. But it's really hard to tell which at first glance.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Turtle Rock
By: Brian Scoggins When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: Granted, but I've been climbing here since 2002, and my earliest recollection of Vedauwoo was watching my father climb Walt's Wall in 1987.

The problem is that "Turtle Rock" is really poorly defined. If you have the Halfpenny book, it might say, but in the 1977 Kopischka book, it covers only what's now known as Land of the Rising Moon.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Turtle Rock
By: Brian Scoggins When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Per Skip Harper, Turtle Rock is mostly Land of the Rising Moon and surrounding areas. Again, well established area, with a LOT of climbing already in place.

Your picture depicts the formation that Fall Wall, etc. sit on (a piece of rock that, so far as I'm aware) doesn't have a name if it isn't Turtle Rock.


Location: WY : Lander Area
By: Brian Scoggins When: Feb 12, 2016

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Comments: Wild iris is typically inaccessible without a snow mobile until the winter snows recede.
Killer cave, in sinks, being south facing, can have warm days year-round. That said, you'll want clear, warm-ish winter days. 45 and cloudy/windy will be intolerable. 45, sunny, and calm will be the best day of your life.


Location: ID : Salmon River - South Fork : Caton Creek Roadside Ice : Left Curtains (WI2-3) : Photo (Copy)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jan 17, 2016

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Comments: Left curtains are the left most line of pure ice in the photo.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Coyote Essence (5.11)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: The crux of this line is holding onto the layback long enough to get to where *you* can get solid jams.
Clean, without any major cop-out features.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Jolly Rancher (5.10)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: I felt that the offwidth pods took away from the quality of the route, lowering it from "best in Creek" to probably "best at crag". Definitely want to tape on this if your wide hands technique is not on lock.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Cat Got Your Tongue (5.10)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: Despite being mostly tight hands (perfect red camalots), the difficulty is eased both by the slabby angle and the huge amount of face holds to stand on and rest.
Yet another example of "would be 5 stars anywhere else", this route suffers from too many quality rests and its short length.
Our rack was: 1 each from purple master cam to green camalot, 3-4 red camalots, 2-3 yellow camalots. The chimney takes finger gear in the back, so no big gear is needed.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Steeple Peak : West face Major dihedral (5.11 R)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Oct 9, 2015

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Comments: Technically, the policy that bans bolts also bans any other fixed anchors, including slings and fixed nuts. It remains an open issue but the spirit of the Wilderness Act suggests hand drilling or placing a pin, while existing policy (which the Access Fund and others managed to defund enforcement) bans everything, including bail slings in case of emergency.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : Comp Rock - East Face : Handy (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 17, 2015

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Comments: No tape needed. I will say that I wish the upper slab either stopped at the 3rd bolt, where there's a good stance, or kept going. It stops almost precisely at the 100' mark, but not really in a logical location.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Pistol and Holster (5.10-)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: While I don't have the new guidebook in front of me, I've done all the routes between the Pronghorn Pinnacle and Ticks For Chicks, and all of them are present in the new book except this one. There was (might still be) a plaque with sharpy on it, indicating the name, as of when I posted the route.


Location: ID
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: Found: women's shoes at the Comp Wall at Castle Rock State Park. Message me with location and shoe type and I'll get them in the mail to you.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: Found: women's shoes at the Comp Wall. Message me with the location, and the type of shoes, and I'll get them in the mail to you.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Beehive Buttress : Walking the Board (5.10a)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: Kenneth, the Beehive tends to be the most crowded area at Vedauwoo most weekends, afternoons, or anytime people can get away from work. It even beats out the Friday the 13th alcove in terms of human density. Go early, or go elsewhere if you want to climb.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : The Dark Side : Good Friday (5.10a)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Good, stemmy route marred by some sketchy rock down low. One foothold does not look long for the world, and there's an obvious chockstone at about half-height that is inexplicably secure.


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : The Dark Side : Safety Dance (5.10b)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Ordinarily I'd be prepared to admit that its just a bad size, but if the learned masters of Mountain Project call this 10b, but think Trimmed Bush is 10a, they're high. This is much easier than Trimmed Bush, and the sections with hard sizes are brief, with good faceholds nearby.
I think this is fair 10a, and Trimmed Bush is fair 10c, for a proficient crack climber.
Also, cams from #1 to #3 friend (e.g. .5 - 2 C4) will take the edge off any runout you may feel. Or doubles in that with... more >>


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla... : Iron Horse with a Twisted H... (5.9)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: Especially if you've been climbing steeper routes with better holds, this one will feel hard and runout compared to other 9s at the Corral. Really not worth doing unless you're trying to push your pitch count higher, and don't want to do so at a higher grade.
Its slabby, the holds are small, and the bolts are below your feet for all of the hard moves.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Left Side (Tribal War, Poke... : Battle for a Wounded Knee (5.10d)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jul 14, 2015

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Comments: The new guidebook calls this 11a, which I'll accept. The crux is all on jugs, but it's steep and sequencey. It's definitely more sustained than other 10+/11- routes at the corral.
Whatever the grade, this thing is awesome, and totally worth falling off of a few times if you're trying to get into 11s.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Owl Rock : Owl Rock - West : Fledgling (5.7)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jun 28, 2015

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Comments: All of the 5.7 is before you get your first piece in, within the first 8 feet of climbing. After that, its not difficult. The upper hand crack is a hoot, but over way too fast. Agreed, not a destination climb, but certainly a good warmup for the crag.
I used nothing smaller than a .75 camalot, and nothing larger than 3.


Location: ID : Mores Mountain : Roadside Rock : Computer Girl (5.9+)
By: Brian Scoggins When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: The 2nd pitch is such a style shift from the 1st pitch, its almost a shame that there isn't something stylistically similar to get you there. The movement is made considerably easier if you're proficient at (very) flared hand jams.


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