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Location: MD : Sugarloaf Mountain : Boy Scout Ledges : Spiderman's Route (C5)
By: Brian S When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here is my interpretation of the line:
A single number does not accurately convey the difficulty of the line, especially on the YDS. A better way of describing the free climbing is a section of 5.7 to a single V5 move to a short section of 11+.
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Location: MD : Northwest Branch
By: Brian S When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here is another (newer) guide - mdguides.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/nwb-guide-draft.pdf
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Location: PA : Mount Gretna : 45 Area : "23 Project" (V3-4)
By: Brian S When: Nov 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 11-03-12, I climbed a stand start to the dihedral listed as "23. Project" in "Governer Dick Bouldering Guide."
https://vimeo.com/52961794
Climb #1
Lower starts look like fun. Has anyone else done it?
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Worst Idea Of The Century C... (V5)
By: Brian S When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cheese and Crackers!
Can you climb the opposite direction? Thus creating the worster idea of the century.
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Location: PA : Mount Gretna : Colflesh Area : "15 Project" (V5-6)
By: Brian S When: Mar 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 03-17-12, I climbed the problem listed in the guidebook as "15 Project V?" from standing on the rocks. I was unsuccessful from sit-starting on the ground.
(2nd problem)
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Location: PA : Mount Gretna : 45 Area : "Trailside Project" (V4-5)
By: Brian S When: Mar 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 03-17-12, I climbed the problem listed in the guidebook as "Trailside Project" from the stand. I was unsuccessful from the sit start. Has anyone else done it?
(1st problem)
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: Brian S When: Nov 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just another friendly local
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : Wango's Workshop : Tomb Raider (5.11)
By: Brian S When: Jul 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route. The first pitch had lichen in the crack. It should clean up with more ascents. "THE VOO: Rock Climbing in Vedauwoo" lists it as 5.9/A0. I onsight free climbed the A0 bolt ladder on the third pitch on 07/24/11. It is hard to grade onsights, but I would guess 5.11a.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : Zorro Area : Unknown (5.11+)
By: Brian S When: Jul 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments:
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : Zorro Area : Unknown (5.11+)
By: Brian S When: Jul 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I couldn't find this climb in the 2011 Guidebook. It is quintessential bouldering on a rope. My best guess for the grade is 11c. The crux revolves around a long pull off a good mono (Brilliant!). Bring a brush! It is dirty but should clean up to be a nice addition to the area.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : PMA Crag : Chutes and Ladders (5.10a)
By: Brian S When: May 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments:
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Law of Physics Crag : Bachar's Block : Stone Master (V11)
By: Brian S When: Oct 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm confused. Where does this line go?
Here are my interpretations of the problems-
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Law of Physics Crag : Bachar's Block : Deacon Blues (V6-7)
By: Brian S When: Oct 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where does this problem go from once you have the left hand crimp and right hand on the arete? The path of least resistance is traversing to the right around the arete. Traversing to the far left into the crack is next hardest. Climbing directly up is hard but contrived.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Law of Physics Crag
By: Brian S When: Oct 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the way to Bachar's Block, I found this problem -
Take the gully to the left of "Law of Physics" Crag until you are parallel with "Mind Shaft Cliff". Make a right, between another abandoned mine shaft and a large pile of rocks, and walk about 200ft. It is directly on the trial. If you see Bachar Block, you have gone too far.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Law of Physics Crag : Bachar's Block : The Bachar Ladder (V6)
By: Brian S When: Oct 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm confused by the description. Is the crack/"Yosemite Supreme" on or off? Is this problem a link-up?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Law of Physics Crag : Bachar's Block : Yosemite Supreme (V5-6)
By: Brian S When: Oct 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for posting this problem. It is a nice one!
It would be a good idea to brush the top-out before starting. It was very dirty when I did it on 10/24/10.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace
By: Brian S When: Jul 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best bet for crossing in the summer is a boat.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Campjack Rocks : "40. Project" (V5)
By: Brian S When: Jun 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is the word about the sit down start?
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Campjack Rocks : Unknown (V6)
By: Brian S When: Jun 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is cool. I appreciate the information. Names and grades would also be helpful. I rather push things forward, than reinvent.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Pilar Area Bouldering : C3PO (aka The Overlooked Bo... : Righthand Arete (V1+)
By: Brian S When: Jun 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The line is good but a bit of a sandbag. There could be a possible much harder sit down.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Pilar Area Bouldering : Surf Report Boulder
By: Brian S When: Jun 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments:
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Campjack Rocks : Unknown (V6)
By: Brian S When: Jun 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I sent this problem on 06/16/10 (thanks, Tim from Laramie!). I'm unsure of the grade. It is probably height-dependent because of the large move from the crack to the flake. I also a sent a fun mantle problem (V3) that starts by stepping off a rock. There is very obvious, direct line from the sit start in the crack to the mantle. It was too hard for us that day.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Campjack Rocks : "31. Project" (V9)
By: Brian S When: Jun 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know if it is still a project. I sent it on 06/16/10. It is hard to grade, but I'll guess it is V9. If I was the first, I would like to name it "Slipping the Rocker Clutch."
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Campjack Rocks : "40. Project" (V5)
By: Brian S When: Jun 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know if this is still a project. I sent it from the stand (V5ish) on 06/16/10. The sit was too much for me and probably goes at V8-10.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pratt's Rock aka Pratt's Ov... : Crystal Corner (V2+)
By: Brian S When: Jan 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks.
Here is my 2 cents: I started fully sited with LH in the pocket and RH on the undercling directly under Smith OH, made my way right and up via various sidepulls to the sloping edge with a good thumb catch. I thought it was V7- and harder than it looks. It is a nice line demanding, precise beta.
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