Comments: The old start to this problem seems to no longer exist? Comparing old videos to the current status of the boulder, it looks like a big block broke off leaving behind a good start ledge, but one that is quite a bit further underneath the problem than the previous ledge.
Comments: Heard that the left crimp you move to from the initial pinches might be gone. Haven't seen it myself nor do I remember what else was there to use, but it seems like the problem would be much harder without that hold. It apparently still goes however...
Comments: Paul actually has a point. From the start holds it is not too hard to perch just left of the corner to some jugs before surfing out right past the crux. Still a cool boulder, and frankly feels kind of hard doing it the normal way!
Comments: Great climb. Like trad monkey pointed out being tall reduces the crux to being mostly a matter of technique and execution with a little bit of hard pulling thrown in near the top before the last rest. Other tall folks have done it though and seemingly confirmed the grade so who knows. It's hard to compare this with Whiskey since the rests on SAM are so good. All I know is that I wish there were more climbs like these around the state!
Comments: I'm a bit late to this but after seeing this problem in the video it's hard not to agree with most of what people have posted. The fact is that this problem is a pretty minor variation to AC that starts part way through AC and uses 1 additional hold to basically climb the same problem with a different sequence.
Sure, there's nothing wrong with arbitrarily making the existing problems harder if you're looking for something to do, but I agree that they really only serve to confuse and dilute th... more >>
Comments: I would be very interested in seeing this beta at some point. I would get part way up the arete with my right hand and then just sort of stall. Cool problem though. Nice work on cleaning this up and building as good a landing as you could.
Comments: Yep, that's the one. I kept looking for the log in Remo's beta picture but I got a bit off trail about half way out and never came across it before I got to the Reserve proper. Meant to look for it on the way back but I went to ejaculator instead and couldn't muster up the energy to go back.