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Brian Reynolds. Photo by Joshua Hibbard


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Apr 29, 2004
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Point Rank: # 1,057
Total Points: 599
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brian Reynolds been climbing?










Contributions


All 154 | Routes 30 | Areas 15 | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 44 | Posts 1 | Stars 47 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
$eth getting set at the base of Princess (left) an...

$eth getting set at the base of Princess (left) and The Mikado (right).

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Mikado (5.6)

Feb 10, 2003

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Lazy Day (5.7)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Apr 14, 2004

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Comments: Fun climb, even though it's really short. Pretty easy for 5.7, although I'm not sure I'd downgrade it to 5.6.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Right On (5.5 PG13)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Mar 24, 2004

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Comments: I finally hauled my butt over and did this climb last Saturday. I wouldn't call it a mega-classic, but it's a lot of fun -- especially the last pitch, even though it's probably the easiest of them.

There are two-bolt anchors at both the first and second belays (both unnecessary, but mighty convenient nonetheless), for those who want to climb this in four pitches. This is a climb that screams for linking pitches, though. The second "pitch" can't be more than 40-50 feet long. With a 60m rope,... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Dutzi Rock : Suzie's Cream Squeeze (5.6)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Feb 26, 2004

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Comments: True, but she appears earlier in the last two track (and on the record sleeve) of Freak Out.

Not a bad list (I can't believe I forgot 200 Motels), but I'm surprised there's no "Help I'm a Rock" around somewhere.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Dutzi Rock : Suzie's Cream Squeeze (5.6)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Feb 25, 2004

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Comments: I would guess that the name is also a nod to the Suzie Cream Cheese character on Frank Zappa's "Freak Out" debut album from 1966. Are there any other Zappa-inspired route names out there?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : Spaghetti & Chili (5.7)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Feb 20, 2004

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Comments: True, it's a fun finish. I climbed the route again recently at the end of a long day and was a little surprised -- I didn't remember the last few moves being quite so strenuous.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Mike's Books (5.6)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Dec 17, 2003

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Comments: Fun route. Carry the biggest pieces you've got, if you want an excuse to place them. You won't need them, but you'll be able to find somewhere to put them if you want to. I'm certainly not encouraging bolting anchors all over the park, but the fact that both of them are bolted on this climb sure makes it a quick one!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : Gait of Power (5.10a)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Dec 17, 2003

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Comments: Well, Locker, I guess we disagree. It's not personal. I swear.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : Red Beckey (aka The Rabbi) (5.10a)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Dec 16, 2003

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Comments: This deserves the s -- it was fun on toprope, but it would be a tough lead! It's a fun climb, with a nice combination of moves, and it's fairly sustained for the grade.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : Gait of Power (5.10a)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Dec 16, 2003

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Comments: This climb is short but fun. I've had a good time hopping on it unroped, with just a boulder pad or two at the base for protection. You clear the crux by the time you're ten feet up, and then you can jump off. No way this deserves zero stars.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : We Dive At Dawn (5.8)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Dec 16, 2003

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Comments: Definitely solid 5.8. The first move onto the face at the end (I guess you could call it a "direct finish"?) is pretty thin, but there are better hands if you move a few feet to your right.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : Driving Limitations (5.8)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Dec 16, 2003

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Comments: The only way this is a 5.8 is if you climb straight up through the first bolt, in which case I thought it was a rather stiff 5.8. A lot of parties that I see climb it go around scramble up 3rd/4th class ramps to where they can clip the second bolt and move up from there. If you go that way, it's 5.6, 5.7 tops. It's still a good little climb, though.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : Cranny (5.8)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Nov 29, 2003

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Comments: I didn't realize how steep this climb is until I was into the alcove and standing at the base. Fun, interesting climb.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : Tiptoe (5.7+)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Nov 28, 2003

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Comments: This is a pretty fun slab climb. It looks steep, but nice protrusions appear on the dikes (oops, I mean "women in comfortable shoes") everytime you need them.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Apparition Rock : Apparition (5.10a)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Nov 25, 2003

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Comments: I don't know ... I was probably making it harder than it had to be, but Apparition was by far the toughest downclimb that I've had to do at Josh. After a lot of trial and error, I came down over to the left of the front side of the formation, but it really sucked! A rap setup on top would have been really welcome!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Freeway Wall : Lower Freeway Wall : Smooth as Silk (5.7)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Nov 18, 2003

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Comments: I disagree -- it felt hard to me the first time I tried to climb it, but that was because I'd never climbed outside JT and I didn't know how to climb a finger crack. On the second try, my technique was better and 5.7 felt right on -- definitely more than one grade easier than the 2nd pitch of Central Pillar of Frenzy in Yosemite, which I think of as a benchmark for the grade. The toughest part was getting out of the scoop coming off the ramp, but once you figure out the sequence of (slightly m... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : Klingon Pizza (5.6 R)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Nov 4, 2003

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Comments: This is a fun little slab. It's nice if you're stuck in Indian Cove on a hot day, because it's on one of the few north-facing walls around. Another option when you finish is to move right across the ledge and finish up the top half of Fat Man's Misery. Descent from the top of the crag is pretty routine (I don't remember which way I went, but I do remember that it was simple).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Polka Dot Wall : Wild Goose Chase (5.8+)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Oct 14, 2003

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Comments: Where's the route? It looks like it's the crack over towards the right side of the formation (the one with a climber on it in the big photo), but your description doesn't say for certain. Looks like a fun one though ...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Double Dip (5.6)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Sep 15, 2003

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Comments: People are always talking about groundfall on this climb -- the only way there's any danger of that is if you only use the bolts. As you can see from the first action photo down below, the entire flake is very easily protectable with large cams (#3 or #3.5 Camalots work great), and you can reach the second bolt easily while standing on top of the flake.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Roadside Rock
By: Brian Reynolds When: Sep 9, 2003

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Comments: Shouldn't Roadside Rock be in the Roadside Rocks area? I don't have Randy's guide in front of me, but that seems to kinda make sense ...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : HVCG Bouldering Circuit : ... : Pinhead (V0)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Aug 27, 2003

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Comments: More like a low 5.10, for what it's worth.

Personally, being the gumbie that I am when it comes to bouldering (and most other climbing too, but especially bouldering -- I'm one of those who can climb all the VBs, but still get spanked by most of the V0s), I really like what Gingery does in her guide, giving things YDS ratings through 10 (effectively 10-), then moving up through the V ratings.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Varnished Wall
By: Brian Reynolds When: May 19, 2003

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Comments: Descent: a nest of slings around a horn with a quicklink and a rap ring, located at the top of With Malice and Forethought. Try to ignore the creaking and groaning the rock makes with you weight the anchor ...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Varnished Wall : With Malice and Forethought (5.7)
By: Brian Reynolds When: May 19, 2003

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Comments: I enjoyed this route. Definitely not a bomb in my opinion. It has an interesting range of moves in a nice location. Plus it's on one of the few north faces in Indian Cove, which is really nice on hot days in May!!! Didn't seem too hard for a 5.7, though. In fact, I found it significantly easier than both the 5.6 I climbed in Steve Canyon the day before (Deflowered), and the 5.7 I climbed the next day on Feudal Wall (Crown Jewel's 2nd pitch).

The rappel anchor is not confidence-inspiring.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : SW Corner (5.6)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Mar 13, 2003

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Comments: Nice try, Misha. No way in hell this route is anything more than 5.6, and the only way you could've taken a huge whipper is if you decided to skip a few bolts on the way by.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Jaws (5.6 R)
By: Brian Reynolds When: Mar 13, 2003

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Comments: The setting is more memorable than the climbing. There's a great start from deep in a slot behind a large boulder, and if you start to get gripped on lead, you can simply straighten your arms and legs a little and wedge yourself against the far side of the slot. Definitely worth doing. 2 stars out of 5.


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