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Rock Climbing Photo: The Seward Highway is really beautiful.


Member Since: Mar 30, 2010
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact Brian Prince

Point Rank: # 828
Total Points: 927
Last Year: 250
Last 30 Days: 42
68 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brian Prince been climbing?










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All 1060 | Routes 14 | Areas 4 | Photos 123 | Page Improvements | Comments 112 | Posts 134 | Stars 580 | Ratings 93
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Kings Canyon : North Mountain : Nowhere To Run (5.11a)
By: Brian Prince When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Top rap anchors have been replaced. Take some cord for the rest of the raps. Not sure if the last pitch could be rapped with a 70m..

To find it. Park near the stables (was told we can't park at the stables) and hike to the buttress. Once you get to the toe, head up and left just a bit and then cut back right and scramble up to the dirty first pitch.

On the confusing 4th pitch, it's obvious off the belay but it gets... confusing.

No need for 6 x #1's and whatever else the guide recommen... more >>


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Moro Rock (SEKI) : Modern Guilt (5.12) : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: the perp himself!


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : The Watchtower : Tokopah Falls (WI4)
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 5, 2016

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Comments: The large boulder on top, to the left of the tree, also has a 2 bolt anchor on it


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Wailing Banshees (5.11a PG13)
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 5, 2016

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Comments: once saw a guy whip repeatedly off the jug rail after the first bolt.. looked really violent but he/she kept going for it so it must not be too bad! this thing is every bit as classic as its neighbors.. and is the only way to sneak in a tr on the scirocco arete if you're into that, oh yeah


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Mount Watkins
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 17, 2016

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Comments: hey cool man, thanks. glad my comment lit a little fire :)


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Mount Watkins
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: the watkins pinnacles aint unclimbed


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Hamilton Lakes and Valhalla : Hamilton Dome : The Subliminal Verses (5.10a/b)
By: Brian Prince When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: Here's V on the approach we used, pretty much a trail the whole way. spiky balls everywhere? naw not really

Rock Climbing Photo: bush whacking
bush whacking



Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Hamilton Lakes and Valhalla : Hamilton Dome : The Subliminal Verses (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: Yo dawg, you drew this wrong


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : The Prow (5.12b)
By: Brian Prince When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: To me, the lower face section is the crux for sure, and definitely tricky gear. The finger crack is amazing 5.11 fingers.. can't be harder than, say, espresso crack, yeah?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : The Tombstone : Old School Executioner (5.12)
By: Brian Prince When: Jan 5, 2016

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Comments: this thing is a friggin gem! like wow.. I'll admit to having toproped it first (though perhaps not into submission), which is easy to do after climbing tombstone crack or another. the extension looks ridiculous, maybe in a good way, but I can't say..


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Pegleg (5.11d PG13)
By: Brian Prince When: Dec 7, 2015

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Comments: I've tr'd this one and it feels wayy harder than AA. And, from the look of it, the gear is not there for a good bit... I guess it all depends on your stemming game.

Wow. this thing is seriously. flippin. crazy!!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Time's Up (5.11+)
By: Brian Prince When: Dec 4, 2015

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Comments: Can rap the first 4 with one 60m easily.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Gemstone Gully : Fear and Loathing (5.10+)
By: Brian Prince When: Dec 4, 2015

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Comments: really nice route.a #5 could definitely be used on the top of the 2nd pitch if you don't want to squeeze way inside.

Here's a pic of Gemstone. First pitch, at least, is definitely worth doing if up there. It is easy and quick to get to from the approach gully-gemstone gully notch. Can also get off with one 60 from the tricam shit anchor.

Rock Climbing Photo: gemstone
gemstone



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 22 - Five and Dime Cliff : Five and Dime (5.10d)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 11, 2015

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Comments: 100% agree


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : The Don Juan Wall (5.11b)
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Would recommend linking 3+4 over 2+3 (unless crux doesn't faze you).

If there is a (slow) party on Thin Ice, the direct start to Don Juan goes fairly reasonably. Pro is a little funky getting to the big flake, I clipped the second bolt or so on tradewinds. Pro is also a little weird once in the flake but it's pretty secure. So anyway, if you just can't wait, it goes.


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Little Baldy : Welcome to Little Baldy (5.10a)
By: Brian Prince When: Apr 24, 2015

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Comments: The last two pitches are pretty dang classic and the first two are definitely good at times. I thought the beginning of the 2nd and beginning of the 4th to be pretty heads up. At the end of the 3rd, one should downclimb a short ways to belay. Linking 3 and 4 is good beta except i thought the #5 was nice to have on the 4th. The 2nd pitch might be 5.9 if clean, but the 4th is clean and for sure 5.10. Didn't know limpingcrab was a sandbagger ;)

I'm curious how most people choose to... more >>


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Big Baldy : Stickup (5.10+ A0) : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Apr 24, 2015

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Comments: dang that looks good!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge : Demon's Delight (5.11a PG13)
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: It is a tough route for 4 pitches and short ones at that. Agree about the 2nd being the overall crux. But interesting... the way I did the mantle, I figure it's easier for taller/greater wingspan people. But nice undercling beta.. look forward to trying it. Fixed nut is still there and still catching whippers :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Days of Future Passed (5.10b PG13)
By: Brian Prince When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: Another recommendation to do Magnus Veritas P1... really fun pitch. Hard (10+), well protected slab and then fun jug hauling with not the best pro but easy, though steep! Belay at the end of the pitch is better than P1 Day's spot and it is easy to join from there

Also, for conversation's sake, I thought the scariest part was right off P2 belay... pretty thin and would be a shitty fall onto your belayer... eases way up after that


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Abracadaver (5.11a)
By: Brian Prince When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: Here's another take for the out-of-towner..

Link 2 and 3. I thought the very obvious thing to do... if you're not up for it, plug in a cam and rest after the ow. but omg why would anyone stop and belay there if ya had the choice.. just not logical.. nice ledges on top of 1 and top of 3 as well

A #6 was great to have and I think actually needed before the bolt.. handjams in the back after, but I just kept walking it up anyways. Fits perfect for like a 100ft. Don't need a #4 or 5 thi... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower Summit : The Warrior (5.11a)
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, that 4th pitch was something else. Felt like an intruder waltzin up in there and was kind of traumatic to be honest.. it was wild. I think they're just in there in the spring time though?

We topped out and walked off which is what I would recommend. One rope, the views and terrain are awesome and it's pretty straightforward... I think we rapped once on the ridge. It's a scrambling route... And then you're home free once you reach the canyon floor. Or you could do that splitter to the top ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Stoner's Highway (5.10c R)
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 2, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 1 is probably scarier for the follower. On Pitch 2 traverse left pretty much right off the belay. The undercling is a little mossy and it's easier to climb underneath, out of reach of it anyway. Hard/tad spicy at the top of this pitch... right before the bolt.

Pitch 3 has some good crack climbing and some seriously scary flakes at the top... Pitch 4 has some hard but safe slab moves at the top... 5th one is hard right off the belay for a couple moves with no pro til you get in the crack ... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Voyager Rock
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: The hike alone is worth going up here. Very beautiful with some awesome boulders on the mellow approach slab. And Voyager is a sweet one to walk the base of


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 17 - This and That Cliff : Tips (5.11+ A0)
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 29, 2014

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Comments: Tips Thread


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 17 - This and That Cliff : Cramming (5.10d)
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 29, 2014

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Comments: We instantly thought of P2 of Thin Ice when we saw this. It's pretty dang similar but a bit easier I thought. If you want more specific in beta, try straight in at first, then left side and a corner knee bar with your right leg (opposite the photo). Worked good for me. Awesome pitch, the rock is just remarkable


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