Comments: We instantly thought of P2 of Thin Ice when we saw this. It's pretty dang similar but a bit easier I thought. If you want more specific "in" beta, try straight in at first, then left side and a corner knee bar with your right leg (opposite the photo). Worked good for me, but didn't really seem too perplexing anyway. Awesome pitch, the rock is just remarkable
Comments: That toe is so awesome! And the granite where the climber is just amazing looking... a smooth, curved transition from slab to steeper, and I think is the obvious transition on the whole of the upper east face. Amazing
Comments: I thought this was harder than the respective pitch on Cloud Tower. It's a shorter crux, but felt pretty desperate for me. I did fall on both of them though... but CT felt very reasonable in comparison.
Could probably be top roped rapping from gin ricky
Comments: This was one of my first 11 joshua tree onsights so I recommend it on that note. The crack was also harder for me, surprisingly. Extra blue-orange metolius was great to have and made it not too big a deal as far as pro. A real classic in my eyes
Comments: Yeah... hate. However, it is a beautiful line and really just takes some technique. I brought a bunch of wider gear and found myself wishing I had more in the #0.4-#1 size instead. One #4 was the only bigger pro I thought necessary. Beautiful, long line with sustained, proper crack climbing. Really great but, yeah, a tad grity in places.
Comments: Apparently this was renamed Arizona Highways after the first ascensionists took it to the summit. Climbed 7 pitches in 1999 and named it The Jester. returned the next year and renamed it Arizona Highways, from what I've read.
I'm pretty confused. It seems that there are three cracks at the base. The Blade (what Richard describes as the flake/splitter in the orange rock) and the two cracks that make up the obvious "tooth" or "V". Maybe the right crack of the "V" hasn't been climbed and/or named?... more >>
Comments: Just have to talk up this route. 2nd pitch is just so beautiful and good. The 3rd pitch is pretty dang hard at the end but, yeah, easier than it looks. Definitely workin big time for a 10a though. It is usually very desperate for me. Last time my partner was workin the arete and made it look pretty casual. Unfortunately, one could bail out right at the beginning of it but don't you dare!
Comments: Sweet route. The crux is really similar to the fracture; it's a big reach for a good fingerlock. But yeah, a good bit harder in my opinion and as the grade suggest. I'd be really interested to see/hear how a shorter person does this. Placing gear from the two side by side fingerlocks before the crux move took some serious effort! After that, yeah, it just makes sense to go to the jug and there was no way I could have stopped if I wanted to.
Comments: A quick google search revealed... If I had to guess this is the obvious dihedral seen from the south end on hwy1. If so, good choice. Although, it was a splitter finger crack in my dreams...
And what's this about? From wikipedia "Hollister Peak is on private property but within certain days of the year the peak is open to the public to climb during holiday's and for Indian tribes for religious purposes"
Comments: I've scoped it out with binoculars from every aspect I can get to. And this aspect is actually the least impressive imo. It's really such a shame... amazing looking crack lines, the perfect highline setup, steep and clean faces, the amphitheater on the west side, and a stunningly exposed, overhanging headwall (head down turri rd. for a sweet profile)... Would be a total game changer if opened..