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The Seward Highway is really beautiful.


Member Since: Mar 30, 2010
Last Visit: 42 mins ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 932 | Routes 12 | Areas 3 | Photos 84 | Page Improvements | Comments 98 | Posts 127 | Stars 519 | Ratings 89
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Little Baldy : Welcome to Little Baldy (5.10a)
By: Brian Prince When: Apr 24, 2015

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Comments: The last two pitches are pretty dang classic and the first two are definitely good at times. I thought the beginning of the 2nd and beginning of the 4th to be pretty heads up. At the end of the 3rd, one should downclimb a short ways to belay. The 2nd might be 5.9 if clean, but the 4th is clean and for sure 5.10. Didn't know limpingcrab was a sandbagger ;)

I'm curious how most people choose to start the first pitch..

1 #4 and 1 #5 seemed perfect.

The giant flake on the 4t... more >>


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Big Baldy : Stickup (5.10+ A0) : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Apr 24, 2015

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Comments: dang that looks good!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge : Demon's Delight (5.11a PG13)
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: It is a tough route for 4 pitches and short ones at that. Agree about the 2nd being the overall crux. But interesting... the way I did the mantle, I figure it's easier for taller/greater wingspan people. But thanks for the undercling beta.. look forward to trying it someday. Fixed nut is still there and still catching whippers :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Days of Future Passed (5.10b PG13)
By: Brian Prince When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: Another recommendation to do Magnus Veritas P1... really fun pitch. Hard (10+), well protected slab and then fun jug hauling with not the best pro but easy, though steep! Belay at the end of the pitch is better than P1 Day's spot and it is easy to join from there

Also, for conversation's sake, I thought the scariest part was right off P2 belay... pretty thin and would be a shitty fall onto your belayer... eases way up after that


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Abracadaver (5.11a)
By: Brian Prince When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: Here's another take for the out-of-towner..

Link 2 and 3. I thought the very obvious thing to do... if you're not up for it, plug in a cam and rest after the ow. but omg why would anyone stop and belay there if ya had the choice.. just not logical.. nice ledges on top of 1 and top of 3 as well

A #6 was great to have and I think actually needed before the bolt.. handjams in the back after, but I just kept walking it up anyways. Fits perfect for like a 100ft. Don't need a #4 or 5 thi... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower summit : The Warrior (5.11a)
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, that 4th pitch was something else. Felt like an intruder waltzin up in there and was kind of traumatic to be honest.. it was wild. I think they're just in they're in the spring time though?

We topped out and walked off which is what I would recommend. One rope, the views and terrain are awesome and it's pretty straightforward... I think we rapped once on the ridge. It's a scrambling route... And then you're home free once you reach the canyon floor. Or you could do that splitter to the to... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Stoner's Highway (5.10c R)
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 2, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 1 is probably scarier for the follower. On Pitch 2 traverse left pretty much right off the belay. The undercling is a little mossy and it's easier to climb underneath, out of reach of it anyway. Hard/tad spicy at the top of this pitch... right before the bolt.

Pitch 3 has some good crack climbing and some seriously scary flakes at the top... Pitch 4 has some hard but safe slab moves at the top... 5th one is hard right off the belay for a couple moves with no pro til you get in the crack ... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Voyager Rock
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: The hike alone is worth going up here. Very beautiful with some awesome boulders on the mellow approach slab. And Voyager is a sweet one to walk the base of


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 17 - This and That Cliff : Tips (5.11 A0)
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 29, 2014

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Comments: Tips Thread


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 17 - This and That Cliff : Cramming (5.10d)
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 29, 2014

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Comments: We instantly thought of P2 of Thin Ice when we saw this. It's pretty dang similar but a bit easier I thought. If you want more specific in beta, try straight in at first, then left side and a corner knee bar with your right leg (opposite the photo). Worked good for me. Awesome pitch, the rock is just remarkable


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Touch and Go Face : The Gold Hunk (5.11b)
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: Cool and easy to tr after Touch and Go. Would be a pretty intense lead even with the bolt.. Definitely worth doing


Location: AK : Wrangell St. Elias NP : The Wrangell Mountains : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 2, 2014

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Comments: Crazy time... and wow, just gotta love Wrangell/St. Elias


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 2, 2014

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Comments: boy, just amazing light


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 2, 2014

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Comments: Amazing, I thought it was some kind of reflection in water at first


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 1, 2014

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Comments: That toe is so awesome! And the granite where the climber is just amazing looking... a smooth, curved transition from slab to steeper, and I think is the obvious transition on the whole of the upper east face. Amazing


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Alcohol Wall : Straight Shot (5.11d)
By: Brian Prince When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was harder than the respective pitch on Cloud Tower. It's a shorter crux, but felt pretty desperate for me. I did fall on both of them though... but CT felt very reasonable in comparison.

Could probably be top roped rapping from gin ricky


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Ruth Gorge
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: On the Mt. Johnson note, I definitely agree, here's Doug Chabot's account of his and his partner's attempt at the east buttress.

publications.americanalpineclu...

And Henry Barber and Yvon Chouinard climbing together? Anybody got info on their attempts?

A bit of The Elevator Shaft's history and its first ascent (with Jack Tackle) account by Chabot.

publications.americanalpine... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : The Bendix Claws (5.11a)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: This was one of my first 11 joshua tree onsights so I recommend it on that note. The crack was also harder for me, surprisingly. Extra blue-orange metolius was great to have and made it not too big a deal as far as pro. Although, the first placement after the bolt is pretty tricky.. A real classic in my eyes


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Conan's Corridor : Spiderman (5.10a)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Yeah... hate. However, it is a beautiful line and really just takes some technique. I brought a bunch of wider gear and found myself wishing I had more in the #0.4-#1 size instead. One #4 was the only bigger pro I thought necessary. Beautiful, long line with sustained, proper crack climbing. Really great but, yeah, a tad grity in places.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Northeast Buttress (5.9+ PG13) : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: sweet shot of the crucifix


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Little Switzerland : The Royal Tower : The Jester (5.10 Mod. Snow)
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Apparently this was renamed Arizona Highways after the first ascensionists took it to the summit. Climbed 7 pitches in 1999 and named it The Jester. returned the next year and renamed it Arizona Highways, from what I've read in the AAJ

I'm pretty confused. It seems that there are three cracks at the base. The Blade (what Richard describes as the flake/splitter in the orange rock) and the two cracks that make up the obvious "tooth" or "V". Maybe the right crack of the "V" hasn't been climbed and... more >>


Location: International : Europe : France : Vallee Blanche (White Valle... : Aiguille du Midi : Rebuffat (Southeast Face) (5.10a)
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: mountainproject.com/v/voie-rbu...


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Anti-Jello Crack (5.10a)
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Just have to talk up this route. 2nd pitch is just so beautiful and good. The 3rd pitch is pretty dang hard at the end but, yeah, easier than it looks. Definitely workin big time for a 10a though. It is usually very desperate for me. Last time my partner was workin the arete and made it look pretty casual. Unfortunately, one could bail out right at the beginning of it but don't you dare!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome : Welcome to Courtright (5.9)
By: Brian Prince When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: Very cool route. No slab climbing. It's all on awesome holds and the rock offers great friction if needed. Very friendly climbing. Link the last two pitches.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Taurus (5.11b)
By: Brian Prince When: May 26, 2013

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Comments: Sweet route. The crux is really similar to the fracture; it's a big reach for a good fingerlock. But yeah, a good bit harder in my opinion and as the grade suggest. I'd be really interested to see/hear how a shorter person does this. Placing gear from the two side by side fingerlocks before the crux move took some serious effort! After that, yeah, it just makes sense to go to the jug and there was no way I could have stopped if I wanted to.


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