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The Seward Highway is really beautiful.


Member Since: Mar 30, 2010
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 905 | Routes 10 | Areas 3 | Photos 72 | Page Improvements | Comments 98 | Posts 128 | Stars 506 | Ratings 88
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : The Bendix Claws (5.11a)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: This was one of my first 11 joshua tree onsights so I recommend it on that note. The crack was also harder for me, surprisingly. Extra blue-orange metolius was great to have and made it not too big a deal as far as pro. Although, the first placement after the bolt is pretty tricky.. A real classic in my eyes


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Conan's Corridor : Spiderman (5.10a)
By: Brian Prince When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Yeah... hate. However, it is a beautiful line and really just takes some technique. I brought a bunch of wider gear and found myself wishing I had more in the #0.4-#1 size instead. One #4 was the only bigger pro I thought necessary. Beautiful, long line with sustained, proper crack climbing. Really great but, yeah, a tad grity in places.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Northeast Buttress (5.9+ PG13) : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: sweet shot of the crucifix


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Little Switzerland : The Royal Tower : The Jester (5.10 Mod. Snow)
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Apparently this was renamed Arizona Highways after the first ascensionists took it to the summit. Climbed 7 pitches in 1999 and named it The Jester. returned the next year and renamed it Arizona Highways, from what I've read in the AAJ

I'm pretty confused. It seems that there are three cracks at the base. The Blade (what Richard describes as the flake/splitter in the orange rock) and the two cracks that make up the obvious "tooth" or "V". Maybe the right crack of the "V" hasn't been climbed and... more >>


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Mt Hunter : m (WI4 M2-3 Steep Snow)
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: super lame


Location: International : Europe : France : Vallee Blanche (White Valle... : Aiguille du Midi : Rebuffat (Southeast Face) (5.10a)
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: mountainproject.com/v/voie-rbu...


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Anti-Jello Crack (5.10a)
By: Brian Prince When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Just have to talk up this route. 2nd pitch is just so beautiful and good. The 3rd pitch is pretty dang hard at the end but, yeah, easier than it looks. Definitely workin big time for a 10a though. It is usually very desperate for me. Last time my partner was workin the arete and made it look pretty casual. Unfortunately, one could bail out right at the beginning of it but don't you dare!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome : Welcome to Courtright (5.9)
By: Brian Prince When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: Very cool route. No slab climbing. It's all on awesome holds and the rock offers great friction if needed. Very friendly climbing. Link the last two pitches.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Taurus (5.11b)
By: Brian Prince When: May 26, 2013

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Comments: Sweet route. The crux is really similar to the fracture; it's a big reach for a good fingerlock. But yeah, a good bit harder in my opinion and as the grade suggest. I'd be really interested to see/hear how a shorter person does this. Placing gear from the two side by side fingerlocks before the crux move took some serious effort! After that, yeah, it just makes sense to go to the jug and there was no way I could have stopped if I wanted to.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : ... : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: What a strange, but perfect natural feature.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Hollister Peak
By: Brian Prince When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: A quick google search revealed... If I had to guess this is the obvious dihedral seen from the south end on hwy1. If so, good choice. Although, it was a splitter finger crack in my dreams...


And what's this about? From wikipedia "Hollister Peak is on private property but within certain days of the year the peak is open to the public to climb during holiday's and for Indian tribes for religious purposes"


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Hollister Peak : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: I've scoped it out with binoculars from every aspect I can get to. And this aspect is actually the least impressive imo. It's really such a shame... amazing looking crack lines, the perfect highline setup, steep and clean faces, the amphitheater on the west side, and a stunningly exposed, overhanging headwall (head down turri rd. for a sweet profile)... Would be a total game changer if opened..

I like the dream, Chris. Keep it alive!


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: Nice photo. It's also a great perspective on how far it would be to the summit from the end of the north buttress proper. A long ways to go! And then to come down the west ridge... crazy


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: Hey awesome. Thanks Mostafa. I need to work on my mp surfin


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Excellent Adventure (5.11c R) : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: Holy guacamole


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Fist or Flips (5.10c)
By: Brian Prince When: Apr 4, 2013

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Comments: I rapped off a fixed #2 camalot with a long cord clipped to it. It might be possible to continue to the top of the shoulder and rap off a tree back there. Or maybe there's an actual anchor up there. Going right after the crack ends to gain the top might work, but the rock looked a little scary over there. Going straight up, past the fixed #2, is also maybe possible. I had a 70m. A 60m from the #2 would probably work, but'd be close.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Lower Walt's Rocks : Perfect Fingers (5.10a)
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: Such a beautiful line! Flare beta: layback. Way easier than trying to stay inside the thing. It may seem like a terrifying idea on lead but it's really solid and there are good stances every few moves to stand up and reach in to place.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks : At Your Pleasure (5.8)
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: Dan, I think the descent you described is the best way off.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks : White Rain (5.11a)
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: The Rock quality cannot be overstated. This was exactly what I was expecting after all the queen mountain rock hype. Great route and, besides the beginning, the only scary part would be between the 2nd and 3rd bolts but it's all on positive edges. And yeah, the 3rd bolt is pretty rusty.

I thought the crux was at the beginning moving off a big ball of a jug. I'm pretty sure this was right after the first bolt. The top traverse is not too bad if you find the right holds. This is definitely easie... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: Descent beta : A lot of options under the various routes have been mentioned for rapping off the top. With one 60m it's pretty easy to rap "where were you" from the very top. This bolted anchor is easily spotted to climber's left of a small break to the left of mojave queen and upper mojave. After "where were you" you'll be on the halfway ledge and one more rap (1995 budget closure I think) will take you to the ground.

This is really the simple and obvious thing to do. There is no need ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks : Upper Mojave (5.11a)
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: I thought this route was just as good as mojave queen; it's just a little dirtier in the crack. Would totally be classic if cleaner. The rock on the face above is sweet.

The two routes are really easy to compare as they both (after the initial easy part of mojave queen) climb a right leaning crack/flake and then pull a steep bulge on crimps. The crack and the face bulge were both harder on this. The crack was still in the 5.10 range but the bulge was way hard. Miramontes says to go le... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Out of Hangers (5.10a R)
By: Brian Prince When: Mar 21, 2013

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Comments: It could just be me but I was bleaying someone on this the other day and, what do you know, a hold broke. He whipped big! It was pretty wild. All was well in the end though. It happened towards the top on easier ground so, yeah, just be careful eh!

Don't hesitate to clip the bolts on the left face. That's what my partner fell onto and it helped him out for sure. Sling them though.

Still a worthy route


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Photo
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 26, 2013

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Comments: Compare with this . Notice the relation of the little triangle roof to the right. That's f^(#ed up! Looks like the lower roof is still there, it just "moved" up 10 feet or so.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Free For All (Variation) (5.11a)
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, I was gettin mixed up today. There are no longer bolts on the bottom (for the love of gawd do not get worked up over this). You pass a single one before joining the pump floyd line. Crux for me was a crank of a pretty shallow, right, two fingie pocket. The sidepull/undercling rail is sweet. Cool little route that should just be TRed from pump floyd now


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Art Baker Memorial (5.9 PG13)
By: Brian Prince When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: I hardly believed, looking up at the base, that the first pitch was what I saw. The rock is really scary and the cracks are really dirty. It's whatever though. I guess just don't do it if you're not into that kind of thing. The climbing is kind of fun. When you get to the first ledge (Budweiser) , keep going to get to the anchor.

The second pitch is, as advertised, great. I'd recommend rapping in if you want to do it. Rap (or walk down scary 3rd slab) right below the cuticle corner (which is t... more >>


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