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Climbing in Smuggler's Notch


Member Since: Oct 6, 2003
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact Brian in SLC


Point Rank: # 26
Total Points: 9,628
Last Year: 290
Last 30 Days: 105
121 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Brian in SLC been climbing?










Contributions


All (4547) | Routes (216) | Areas (81) | Photos (1194) | Comments (283) | Posts (1923) | Stars (633) | Ratings (217)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Montserrat : ... : Cavall Bernat
By: Brian in SLC When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: I agree, David. If there were more routes in the database, its a great idear to split this off into its own area.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : Upper Comp Rock : Sancho Rama (5.10c)
By: Brian in SLC When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: FA Marcus Porter.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Fence Line : Poptart (5.7)
By: Brian in SLC When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Route is called, "Poptart". FA Dale Ralphs.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Fence Line : Really Fun (5.6)
By: Brian in SLC When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Route is called, "Really Fun". FA Duane Ackerman.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Big in Japan (5.12b)
By: Brian in SLC When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: Not just the fixed draw, JK, but, the rap chains are super visible. Bright shiny and huge. I appreciate whoever is maintaining routes, but, please, camo the chains. They are REALLY high visibility and the area, with the little amphitheater and paved trails below, is high traffic for non-climbers.


Location: Brian in SLC : Gear : Photo
By: Brian in SLC When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Thanks, Mark.

Amazing what folks made due with back in the day, eh?

Hummingbirds were great ol' tools!


Location: Northern Utah & Idaho : Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13 : Post : Photo
By: Brian in SLC When: Feb 25, 2013

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Comments: Lower Box...looks like Hickory Smoke.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Ice : Main Canyon Road Ice : Lemon (WI3-)
By: Brian in SLC When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: You're more than welcome!


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Mallorca : Port de Sóller
By: Brian in SLC When: Jan 8, 2013

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Comments: Possible good news about access at this great location:

www.rockfax.com/news/2012/06/26/port-soller-open/


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mary Ellen's Gulch
By: Brian in SLC When: Oct 4, 2012

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Comments: Why do you wish for more traffic? When I've been up there, I've enjoyed the solitude. Nice change from the popular walls in AF.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : Daddy Long Legs (5.9+)
By: Brian in SLC When: Oct 4, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, RP, tree used to have slings (the tree below the roof used to be the end and anchor on the first pitch).

Was there a two bolt anchor on the upper face of the first pitch? That thing has to go. Maybe someone already took care of it?

You can rap down to River's Edge, too, and hit the ground from that anchor with a single 70 (maybe 60).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Tingey's Terror (5.7)
By: Brian in SLC When: Sep 19, 2012

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Comments: Nah, doesn't have much to do with ego. We all got some.

Its an easy, fairly straightforward traverse (most all nearly hands free with good, solid feet). There's a lot of unprotected climbing out there. And, the rock doesn't care how big or small your ego is.

Ralph mentioned awhile back that he took his daughter up the route and they both really enjoyed it. Said they clipped the bolts and thought it was great.

Its kinda all about gettin' out and havin' fun. If an easy, straightforward but... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : First Practice Wall : The Lost Bolt (5.7)
By: Brian in SLC When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: What's the "obl" rating? 5.5 A0?

Hee hee...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: Brian in SLC When: Aug 21, 2012

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Comments: Polly vu Frenchie?

La Fédération Française de la Montagne et de l'Escalade

Good eye, nacho!

Bolt hangers for them folk and I somehow acquired the extras.

The bolt itself is a Powers stainless powerbolt. $$$. Yeah, 'cause I think you're worth it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Static Wall : Transformer Man (5.8)
By: Brian in SLC When: Aug 1, 2012

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Comments: I always take a few cams for this lead. And, I'm not "no one".

Ha ha. I wouldn't care either way about another bolt, but, I routinely take gear for some sport climbs too.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Steorts' Ridge (5.6)
By: Brian in SLC When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: Another very strong "NO!" to adding fixed anchors to this route.

And you can bet if you add anchors to any moderates at any of the other locations you mentioned they'd be chopped in a heartbeat. The statement that "Joshua Tree, Yosemite, Tahquitz, Suicide Rock) popular moderates are all outfitted with rap anchors" is absolutly not true. Folks in those areas, when they're ready to lead a route, learn how to build anchors and judge the conditions and weather. If they blow it, they leave gear. ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Lazarus (5.8) : Photo
By: Brian in SLC When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: That photo cured me of doing the route for years...!


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : The Taco : Taco Supreme (5.10b)
By: Brian in SLC When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: Re-reading your description...

Does this start under the chockstone, or, on the side then gaining the outside of the chockstone (facing Comp Wall)?

If its the bolted route outside, this route was probably called "Taco Time" longer than GK's route to the left (which I think Brad called "Taco Left" in his guide for Zone 2).

Originally soloed by Brad, lead by me without bolts, and, rebolted after that. Rated 5.9 for the kinda burly start, then, fairly juggy to the top.

Where is the top anchor?... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : I Ran To Afghanistan (5.6)
By: Brian in SLC When: May 28, 2012

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Comments: Nice, James...

I kinda wonder, given the crowd at that crag, if a lower anchor, or, a tag on the belay anchor, might help folks not automatically lower down off that route. That'd be grim to use a 60m rope and have the belayer not notice the rope going short during a lower.

Kind of an accident waiting to happen, IMHO.

Cheers for all you do!


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : Armory, The : Dryfire (5.8)
By: Brian in SLC When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: FA: Brian Cabe, Randy Klimes & Steve Brezovec, October 2001.


Location: RKM : Joe in the Dolomites - Sept... : Photo
By: Brian in SLC When: Dec 10, 2011

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Comments: Joe's a chick magnet!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Photo
By: Brian in SLC When: Dec 10, 2011

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Comments: Thanks, guys!

Mammatocumulus I think. Booby clouds! If you look closely, you can see a few folks climbing On Elephant Rock. The impending storm didn't inspire them to say "hooray for boobies!" I'm guessing.

We were safely in camp enjoying cocktails. Quick moving wild storm, and, you're right, Kim, was nice after it passed.


Location: CO : Help Save Climbing at Massa...
By: Brian in SLC When: Dec 1, 2011

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Comments: I've been in planning meetings with the BLM with regard to the Castle Rocks. They did allow climbing on their little parcel. I have a gob of routes there (so does Brad, etc).

The total climbing ban is a fairly recent development due to cultural resource concerns.

A few of the affected formations are: Tidal Wave Wall, Chamber of Secrets, Blarney Stone, Sorcerer's Stone, Pole Cat, RC Rock, Jug Wall, Smoking Room, Gobstopper, The Kingdom, Wall o' Plenty, Celtic Cross, Stone Circle, Outpost Spi... more >>


Location: RKM : Photos of history and frien... : Photo
By: Brian in SLC When: Dec 1, 2011

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Comments: "Repurposed"... Fantastic!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Clamshell : Infinite (5.11+ X)
By: Brian in SLC When: Dec 1, 2011

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Comments: Wow, Kim, you're one of the very few persons that could enter this route in the database.

Scary looking, to say the least.

No waitin' in line for this one!


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