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Location: Brian in SLC : Gear : Photo
By: Brian in SLC When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Mark.
Amazing what folks made due with back in the day, eh?
Hummingbirds were great ol' tools!
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Location: Northern Utah & Idaho : Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13 : Post : Photo
By: Brian in SLC When: Feb 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lower Box...looks like Hickory Smoke.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Ice : Main Canyon Road Ice : Lemon (WI3-)
By: Brian in SLC When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're more than welcome!
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Location: International : Europe : Spain : Mallorca : Port de Sóller
By: Brian in SLC When: Jan 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Possible good news about access at this great location:
www.rockfax.com/news/2012/06/26/port-soller-open/
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Marryellen's Gulch
By: Brian in SLC When: Oct 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why do you wish for more traffic? When I've been up there, I've enjoyed the solitude. Nice change from the popular walls in AF.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : Daddy Long Legs (5.9+)
By: Brian in SLC When: Oct 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, RP, tree used to have slings (the tree below the roof used to be the end and anchor on the first pitch).
Was there a two bolt anchor on the upper face of the first pitch? That thing has to go. Maybe someone already took care of it?
You can rap down to River's Edge, too, and hit the ground from that anchor with a single 70 (maybe 60).
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Tingey's Terror (5.7)
By: Brian in SLC When: Sep 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nah, doesn't have much to do with ego. We all got some.
Its an easy, fairly straightforward traverse (most all nearly hands free with good, solid feet). There's a lot of unprotected climbing out there. And, the rock doesn't care how big or small your ego is.
Ralph mentioned awhile back that he took his daughter up the route and they both really enjoyed it. Said they clipped the bolts and thought it was great.
Its kinda all about gettin' out and havin' fun. If an easy, straightforward but... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : First Practice Wall : The Lost Bolt (5.7)
By: Brian in SLC When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What's the "obl" rating? 5.5 A0?
Hee hee...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: Brian in SLC When: Aug 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Polly vu Frenchie?
La Fédération Française de la Montagne et de l'Escalade
Good eye, nacho!
Bolt hangers for them folk and I somehow acquired the extras.
The bolt itself is a Powers stainless powerbolt. $$$. Yeah, 'cause I think you're worth it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Static Wall : Transformer Man (5.8)
By: Brian in SLC When: Aug 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I always take a few cams for this lead. And, I'm not "no one".
Ha ha. I wouldn't care either way about another bolt, but, I routinely take gear for some sport climbs too.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Steorts' Ridge (5.6)
By: Brian in SLC When: Jul 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another very strong "NO!" to adding fixed anchors to this route.
And you can bet if you add anchors to any moderates at any of the other locations you mentioned they'd be chopped in a heartbeat. The statement that "Joshua Tree, Yosemite, Tahquitz, Suicide Rock) popular moderates are all outfitted with rap anchors" is absolutly not true. Folks in those areas, when they're ready to lead a route, learn how to build anchors and judge the conditions and weather. If they blow it, they leave gear. ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Lazarus (5.8) : Photo
By: Brian in SLC When: Jul 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That photo cured me of doing the route for years...!
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Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : The Taco : Unknown (5.10-)
By: Brian in SLC When: Jul 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Re-reading your description...
Does this start under the chockstone, or, on the side then gaining the outside of the chockstone (facing Comp Wall)?
If its the bolted route outside, this route was probably called "Taco Time" longer than GK's route to the left (which I think Brad called "Taco Left" in his guide for Zone 2).
Originally soloed by Brad, lead by me without bolts, and, rebolted after that. Rated 5.9 for the kinda burly start, then, fairly juggy to the top.
Where is the top anchor?... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : I Ran To Afghanistan (5.6)
By: Brian in SLC When: May 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice, James...
I kinda wonder, given the crowd at that crag, if a lower anchor, or, a tag on the belay anchor, might help folks not automatically lower down off that route. That'd be grim to use a 60m rope and have the belayer not notice the rope going short during a lower.
Kind of an accident waiting to happen, IMHO.
Cheers for all you do!
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : Armory, The : Dryfire (5.8)
By: Brian in SLC When: Mar 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Brian Cabe, Randy Klimes & Steve Brezovec, October 2001.
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Location: RKM : Joe in the Dolomites - Sept... : Photo
By: Brian in SLC When: Dec 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Joe's a chick magnet!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Photo
By: Brian in SLC When: Dec 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, guys!
Mammatocumulus I think. Booby clouds! If you look closely, you can see a few folks climbing On Elephant Rock. The impending storm didn't inspire them to say "hooray for boobies!" I'm guessing.
We were safely in camp enjoying cocktails. Quick moving wild storm, and, you're right, Kim, was nice after it passed.
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Location: CO : Help Save Climbing at Massa...
By: Brian in SLC When: Dec 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've been in planning meetings with the BLM with regard to the Castle Rocks. They did allow climbing on their little parcel. I have a gob of routes there (so does Brad, etc).
The total climbing ban is a fairly recent development due to cultural resource concerns.
A few of the affected formations are: Tidal Wave Wall, Chamber of Secrets, Blarney Stone, Sorcerer's Stone, Pole Cat, RC Rock, Jug Wall, Smoking Room, Gobstopper, The Kingdom, Wall o' Plenty, Celtic Cross, Stone Circle, Outpost Spi... more >>
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Location: RKM : Photos of history and frien... : Photo
By: Brian in SLC When: Dec 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Repurposed"... Fantastic!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Clamshell : Infinite (5.11+ X)
By: Brian in SLC When: Dec 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, Kim, you're one of the very few persons that could enter this route in the database.
Scary looking, to say the least.
No waitin' in line for this one!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Bad Moon Arising (5.7 R)
By: Brian in SLC When: Dec 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't imagine that it hadn't been done. Kinda obvious line. Very downclimbable too until you step up into the face/final chimney.
That, and, its just not that hard. Be a bad thing to tumble out of though. Tempted to give it an "X" rating...hmmm. Not sure even a "Stone Mountain" belay would keep a falling climber off the deck if they fell on the upper part of the route.
Thought I'd stick it in the database as its an option for approaching the upper pitches, or, if folks are curious about... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Cranial Prophylactic (5.8)
By: Brian in SLC When: Nov 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You might search on this site as that bolt has been debated a fair bit. Bomber gear, but, difficult stance.
Bolt has been there longer than you've been alive...
Kim doesn't care. If you don't like it, don't clip it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge
By: Brian in SLC When: Nov 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Other than it being fairly straight forward and taking good gear?
I've led it a bunch over the years. I'm sure it's been soloed and led for a long time.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Southern Outcrops : Chocolate Rocks : Potzo's Pudding (5.6)
By: Brian in SLC When: Nov 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stuck a #3 Camalot on this route, about 20 feet up. Overcammed. Moves, then it doesn't. Probably get-able.
Great route!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Go Ahead and Jump (5.7)
By: Brian in SLC When: Nov 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Without the little 5.6 boulder problem at the start, this route would be 5.4/5.5.
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