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Member Since: Sep 15, 2011
Last Visit: Nov 25, 2014
Contact Brian Hestetune


Point Rank: # 1,041
Total Points: 612
Last Year: 153
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brian Hestetune been climbing?










Contributions


All 432 | Routes 42 | Areas 4 | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts 39 | Stars 277 | Ratings 26

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : The Betagraph : Betagraphic (5.11c) : Photo
By: Brian Hestetune When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: The Fairy, Beta, and Babe each have their own set of anchors and finishes (Contrary to the Topo).


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a)
By: Brian Hestetune When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: Last I was there, there was a fairly beat in path that traverses left and then back right to the top of a pedestal-like feature. You then go up a short wideish right facing corner that takes you to a ledge and to the left slanting splitter thin hands crack (Two discontinuous cracks in one of the pictures above). The thin hands crack is relatively short and tops out to another ledge with a large bush on it, traverse right to the left facing corner with a buldge at the top. First pitch anchors ar... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a)
By: Brian Hestetune When: Dec 11, 2013

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Comments: Me and my friend did the route on Nov 29th. It was warm that weekend, (highs at 60?). It gets pretty good sun in the afternoon, but I imagine from the angle of the rock that the sun will hit it later and later as we get further into winter. We are the slowest climbers there are, and it took us 3-4 hours to complete (including rappelling). So that should still allow for at least a slightly shaded start with a sunny finish. It seemed like this climb gets sun almost an hour+ after the Crimson K... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : China Wall : First Blood (5.11a)
By: Brian Hestetune When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: You can continue up to the top using the bolts for Bejing or the old scary looking bolts from the original route. One harder big move near the top might make the route an 11/11+ ?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : China Wall : Praise the Lowered (5.12c/d) : Photo
By: Brian Hestetune When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: Second bolt you have on there doesn't exist.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Fucoidal Quartzite : Gill's Grace (5.10c)
By: Brian Hestetune When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: A single rack, with extras for an anchor and a sling for the roof, would do just fine on this climb. You may want a BD#4 or #5 to protect the crux (I used a #4 and it was 'alright'), although you may be able to push a smaller one way up in there. There's an obvious belay before walking off with a plethora of choices for gear size (0.5-3). The best crack is BD#3 sized.

This climb is 5.7 -5.9 up until the crux. Pulling over the roof is where the crux is and is some so... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Mile 385 Area : Heat Miser (5.12a)
By: Brian Hestetune When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: Sometime in the past month, the 40+ foot pillar that forms the dihedral crack collapsed. The route is no more what it was. The bolt attached to the block on the ground makes ya feel good. Does this mean theres a new first ascent waiting for someone? The route still looks doable but much harder.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Fucoidal Quartzite : Adios Amigos (5.12a) : Photo
By: Brian Hestetune When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: Also, the red route is not even close. The second set of anchors is much lower than that.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Fucoidal Quartzite : Adios Amigos (5.12a) : Photo
By: Brian Hestetune When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: Dude, are you climbing these routes before you make a topo? Them dotted lines are way off on Limestone. Not that it matters that much, but seeing that there are some bends in your lines, you could at least put them in the right place (i.e. The bolt line for Limestone traverses right after the 4th bolt and then straight up). Awesome work regardless, just trying to stop the spread of misinformation that seems to be plaguing Logan Canyon's section as of late.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Fucoidal Quartzite : Illusions (5.10b) : Photo
By: Brian Hestetune When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: Right below the 'nose' on Adios, there is a bolt to to the right and the route traverses the nose from the right. It doesn't go straight up. I say this because that is one of the best parts of the route!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Rodent Ranch : Bitty Bee (5.12d)
By: Brian Hestetune When: Oct 5, 2012

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Comments: There is some loose rock on the initial scramble/5th class portion. I recommend a stick clip or some gear for the flake. Falling would be a mostly clean 25 foot fall to the ground


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Mountaineer's Route (5.9)
By: Brian Hestetune When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: I second Stan on the pitch 4 comment. If you don't back clean, I recommend putting a cam up as high as you can in the roofs and clipping the rope directly in. I mistakenly extended that piece with a runner which allowed the rope to sink to low and catch the flake when I took out slack at the top. It is also nearly impossible (impossible in our case) to communicate from the top of pitch 4 to the belayer. Another good reason to extend pitch 3 to the arete.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Solar Cave : Photo
By: Brian Hestetune When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: Sun Dance finishes on the anchors above the Sun Kissed anchors.. or at least that's the way it seems to flow. If you traversed over, you'd be missing out on some fun moves for sure.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Beach Front Wall : Boom (5.12a/b)
By: Brian Hestetune When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: I hiked up to this wall/route and the whole thing looked like it was going to fall apart. So we opted to not do it. How is the rock quality?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Quality Cave : Shocking the Shaman (5.12d)
By: Brian Hestetune When: Aug 17, 2012

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Comments: The band of rock at the very bottom is some sort of weaker conglomerate and seems to break apart with ease. You only use it for your feet and nothing important is chossy.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Solar Cave : Sunkissed (5.13a)
By: Brian Hestetune When: Aug 15, 2012

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Comments: Although this climb only has one star in the book, I think the moves are fun, especially getting yourself right under and out of the cave. Although I have yet to link everything, this is a great climb for sure!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : New World : Cracker Jack (5.10c)
By: Brian Hestetune When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: This is easily one of my favorite 10s I have done in the canyon. I found the slab traverse into the roof around the second bolt to be the crux. Of course, you could try under clinging out the roof from the get go, but I found a plethora of very terrible rock stuffed in the crack between the 1st and 2nd bolt.

I really fell in love with this climb. It climbs like a trad route ( I guess it should be). I will agree with Spencer in that unfortunately this route alone isn't worth the hike.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Blacksmith Fork Canyon : Left Hand Fork : ... : Gray Matter (5.12b)
By: Brian Hestetune When: Jun 27, 2012

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Comments: Putting the draw in around the crux is really committing. The fall is ultra-safe (seeing as I took a nice one there). If they are prehung, it is much less comitting for my height. Rad route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : South Face (5.8 C1)
By: Brian Hestetune When: Jun 8, 2012

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Comments: A few things...

Try not to stick around the rap tree in the middle of p3 for too long, you will regret it... If you have it in for your second, put the haul line to the right of the tree.

The 10a? Variation on p2 is excellent. If you can free the grade and not the 11c, it is a great alternative to aiding the original corner. Step out onto the face to gain a finger crack. Take this up low angle terrain to a glorius steeper hand crack splitter. Pull an offwidth move or two ( or not if you h... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Fucoidal Quartzite
By: Brian Hestetune When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: I remember TRing that last year. It felt like a mid 10 - low 11? Seemed like there was a possibility of an arete up the bum after the first bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Fucoidal Quartzite : Mighty Mouse (5.9)
By: Brian Hestetune When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: I have yet to try the crack to the left, but the hand crack to the right of the face is great. I would definitely recommend this over the bolted face.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Utopia
By: Brian Hestetune When: Feb 12, 2012

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Comments: I think Swedish Finger Yams is a variation of Swedish Finger Massage. At the top, go direct instead of stepping around.