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Member Since: Jun 10, 2011
Last Visit: Dec 31, 2015
Contact Brian Chastain

Point Rank: # 3,334
Total Points: 188
Last Year: 9
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brian Chastain been climbing?










Contributions


All 210 | Routes | Areas | Photos 19 | Page Improvements | Comments 91 | Posts 11 | Stars 71 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Oyster Bar Area : Agent Orange Rock : Rust In Peace (5.9)
By: Brian Chastain When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: If I remember correctly, you need some thin pro to protect the move from the crack's end to the bolt. That also was the hardest move on the climb.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Billabong (5.10d PG13)
By: Brian Chastain When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: If you look in Vogel's West edition, the way we did it and the way my buddy Derek regularly does it is actually between Shovling-Cole and Death by Misadventure. The topo in the guide says something about a crack but we go directly up past the lone bolt in the horizontals. Big whip there but clean.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Ana Mountains
By: Brian Chastain When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: Not to be a jerk but SoCal is my home and Clevland Ntl Forest or any mountains surrounding OC are not prime in June as this graph above indicates. In fact, it may be close to the poorest time to climb. Try full on winter time.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Horseshoe Lake Area : Horseshoe Piles : Spring Wall
By: Brian Chastain When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: Is it just me or are all these routes more like 70'


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Poodles are People Too (5.10b)
By: Brian Chastain When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Best route on the left side of the wall. Would agree with some that it is a sand bag.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Us and Them (aka The Route ... (5.9 R)
By: Brian Chastain When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: There are some manky spinning button heads on this thing. Got my attention as one was clinking in the wind up against the rock prior to clipping it. I traversed in two bolts of it from WOTW and then back left to the first anchors of WOTW. Made it actually WILD! Also the Vogel guide has it at 10b??


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon Area : Steve Canyon : ... : Super Roof (5.9)
By: Brian Chastain When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: If you like large amounts of bird shit, short routes and more trouble than it is worth................BOOM this is the route for you. I mean, if you live near by and visit the park a lot, do it. If you are coming from out of town, do not waste your time.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Sphincter Quits (5.9+ PG13)
By: Brian Chastain When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Really fun climb. If you have climbed enough, making this climb not "R" rated shouldn't be impossible. I put like a #2 or #3 and a sling under the block up on the ledge and felt good with that. !00% confident it would not have gone anywhere if I did fall.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Brewed Awakening (5.11b)
By: Brian Chastain When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: I am a bit torn on grading this. I am not sure if my height (5'8") or not knowing how this was suppose to be started played a roll in the difficulty of this start. I tried climbing directly to the bolt and that was super hard. I made the clip on a small shitty gaston then down climbed to rethink this. Then I ended up going up right of the bolt on crimps; start match, one long left hand move up and then right to a good size hold which made it easy to gain the big flake.

I felt that thi... more >>


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Public Hanging (5.11c/d)
By: Brian Chastain When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: I followed this and my buddy skipped the fourth bolt until after gaining the big flake above the roof. I found a good knee bar making the 4th bolt clip no big deal as I was able to clean the draw pretty easily.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Trapeze (5.11d) : Photo
By: Brian Chastain When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: That was an onsight by the way. Impressive or IMPRESSIVE?


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs : North End Pillars (WI3-4) : Photo
By: Brian Chastain When: Jun 10, 2014

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Comments: Moobs


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Sad Boulders : ... : Chizam (V5)
By: Brian Chastain When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: Repeated this in the 96 degree heat the other day. It was notably harder in that temp.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Bearded Cabbage (5.10c)
By: Brian Chastain When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: I am a hair under 5'8" and the climb was difficult but not too hard. I barely missed the onsight falling a couple times. My 5' girlfriend did not fair so well :/ haha


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Geronimo (5.7)
By: Brian Chastain When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: This was fun because we hit it after climbing Deviate (must climb and best approach for Geronimo IMO. I certainly wouldn't go really out of your way to do it unless you taking pics or something. Too short for the trouble alone.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Deviate (5.10a)
By: Brian Chastain When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: I can't believe how fun this climb turned out to be. Must do for in camp fun. Gets one star, but I say it should get two. One for being super fun and one for being right in camp.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : Disappearing Act (5.10c)
By: Brian Chastain When: Apr 4, 2014

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Comments: Yeah I feel this thing is harder than 10c. I led this last weekend 3/29/14 and had some troubles with it. I had been wanting to do it for a while and it was great. You are never looking at any substantial falls except at the first bolt but that is pretty much standard practice in J-Tree.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hall of Horrors Bouldering : Meadows Boulder : Meadows Direct (V7-)
By: Brian Chastain When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: I'm a shade under 5'8" and the first move was no issue. The second move was proving to be more difficult, but I only gave it about 4-5 goes.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Aiguille de Joshua Tree : Aiguille de Joshua Tree (ak... (5.5 X)
By: Brian Chastain When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: I don't agree with the X. I guess if you fell off the high side for sure. It just seems so improbable to fall off that side (unless you were trying to pimp out your facebook by hanging off that side for a photo and fell)and a fall on the shorter side would certainly not kill you. Perhaps I should revisit the definitions of PG13, R and X. I always thought of X as you can die and R you'll likely break something.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : ... : Photo
By: Brian Chastain When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: I had a run up this when it was blowing stink, sleeting and raining. Talk about puckered up.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hall of Horrors Bouldering : Meadows Boulder : Raspberry (V6)
By: Brian Chastain When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: I used all the holds. Taller folk can definitely chuck for the finish jug but it is still hard that way too. It was also pretty hot this weekend and still went okay. Really GOOD


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hall of Horrors Bouldering : Meadows Boulder : Sloper Safari (V4)
By: Brian Chastain When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: Pretty easy for the grade in J-Tree. Really fun though.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Grand Illusion (5.13b/c)
By: Brian Chastain When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: Arno just shared a photo post on Facebook by Jorgeson. He did it second go placing gear. No discrepancy on rating. Felt compelled to check the route out here on MP after seeing the post. Serious pay grade there.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Planet X Bouldering : The Hang : ... : Strawberry Contraceptives (V7)
By: Brian Chastain When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: I have mixed feelings about the grade on this one. I hate down grading, so I call it 7 minus. I really thought it was pretty easy for the grade in J-Tree. Certainly is a lot easier than Nicole Overhang which comes in a grade easier.

Regardless, it really is a great climb worth every pull.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : Photo
By: Brian Chastain When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: This is Nobody Walks in LA or Catch a Falling Car, not Catch a Falling Star. CFS follows the diagonal until its end and up one bolt to the anchor.


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