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Member Since: Oct 4, 2005
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Brian Boyd


Point Rank: # 837
Total Points: 746
Last Year: 449
Last 30 Days: 10
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brian Boyd been climbing?










Contributions


All 174 | Routes 41 | Areas 6 | Photos 45 | Page Improvments | Comments 21 | Posts 15 | Stars 41 | Ratings 5

Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Cracker Jack Cliffs : Big Plans (5.10a)
By: Brian Boyd When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Multiple snakes in the crack system and along the base today...


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Chiang Mai : Crazy Horse General Area : ... : Air Conditioner (5.10c)
By: Brian Boyd When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: Need to have a second to clean draws, versus retrieve on rappel.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Chiang Mai : Crazy Horse General Area : ... : Morning Glory (5.10a)
By: Brian Boyd When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: The route name is Morning Glory, and the area is called the Windy Cave. 13 bolts.


Location: International : Asia : China : Hong Kong : Beacon Hill : King Cobra (5.7)
By: Brian Boyd When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: If you are going to climb this on trad gear, you will benefit from having more mid-sized cams than stoppers. Multiple opportunities to place a #3 camalot, and perhaps a little run-out if all you have is a #2.

hongkongclimbing.com (where the route description and topo are taken from) list this as 5.9, but the old guidebook lists the rating as 5.5. So, YMMV.

For sport climbers, you have a choice of anchors to finish on: (1) The obvious anchors just right of the corner, (2) anchors ... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Sullivan's Canyon : Lower Sullivan's : Classic (5.10)
By: Brian Boyd When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: I placed red and gold camalots in the upper corner. A couple of blue camalots (#3) are also useful.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Sullivan's Canyon : Lower Sullivan's : Potluck (5.10b)
By: Brian Boyd When: Mar 28, 2010

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Comments: My gear list: 3.5, 4.5, and 5 camalot, two 9" Valley Giants.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Gibraltar Rock : Sedona's Scenic Cruise (5.9)
By: Brian Boyd When: Nov 17, 2009

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Comments: There is a discussion thread available with updated approach beta:

www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona__new_mexico/current_direct>>>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers
By: Brian Boyd When: Oct 27, 2009

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Comments: The Fisher Tower turnoff is actually by milepost 21, not 27 as listed in the description. And, as of October 2009, the sign is missing on the side coming from Moab. We ended up driving all the way until we crossed the Colorado before turning around.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Giants Molars : Gravity Cavity (5.6)
By: Brian Boyd When: Jun 29, 2009

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Comments: Gates are sticky on the drop-in anchors.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Pillow Stuffing (5.7)
By: Brian Boyd When: May 10, 2009

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Comments: My gear list: 0.3 to 3.5 camalot.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Pillow Talk (5.9)
By: Brian Boyd When: May 10, 2009

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Comments: My gear list: Placed a blue camalot at the start, then gold and a 2.5 friend. This is my favorite route in the Pillow Wall.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Cactus Flower East : Black Sunday (5.10a/b)
By: Brian Boyd When: Apr 11, 2009

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Comments: This route get an 'R' rating for the unprotected upper crux section.

Bolt anchors have recently appeared at the top of this route.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : AMC Boulder : Delayed Flight (5.8)
By: Brian Boyd When: Apr 11, 2009

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Comments: I thought this was a pleasant route, definitely a nice addition to the Pinnacle Peak slab circuit.

You can get a zero or one (purple or blue) TCU in the horizontal after the first bolt. Single bolt anchor, I used a couple of smaller camalots (0.5 -- 1 range) to backup the belay.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Ewephoria (5.7)
By: Brian Boyd When: Feb 16, 2009

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Comments: The beta photo of the first pitch is worth bringing along: We spent awhile looking around before deciding the the bushy gully was the actual start. In fairness, the snow piled up at the base and lack of footprints didn't help us much either.

My gear list: 1 ea, blue TCU, .5 and .75 camalot, 2.5 friend, 2 ea 1 and 2 camalot, 2 pink tricams. There were many opportunities for additional placements if needed. The moves on P1 aren't hard, but they aren't terribly obvious either.

The 5.9 finish i... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You : ... : Big Nosed Kate (5.8)
By: Brian Boyd When: Feb 16, 2009

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Comments: The direct start is fun. Definite ledge-smacking potential if you blow the upper crux section.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Mars Attacks (5.9 PG13)
By: Brian Boyd When: Jan 26, 2009

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Comments: There are more bolts on the first and fourth pitches than on the route description: I think 5 on P1, and maybe 6 on P4. Both slab pitches are well bolted.

My partner and I had flashed 5.10 slab at Pinnacle Peak earlier in the week, a place not known for its soft ratings. We've climbed 5.9 and 5.10 sandstone slab/face as well. The slab pitches didn't seem a whole lot easier here.

Regardless of the rating, Mars Attacks is an awesome route.


Location: NH : Band M (CLOSED) : Jungle Work (5.11+ PG13)
By: Brian Boyd When: Sep 25, 2008

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Comments: Albert's Shuffle is another nice route at Band M. It is short but stout: 5.10+ -- emphasis on the plus, I think -- moves up a v groove over by Bluepoint. FA by Albert Dow and Joe Lentini.

Albert had done great sketches of many of his FAs. I wonder what became of his crag folio.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Sleeping Beauty Wall : Life O' Riley (5.9)
By: Brian Boyd When: Sep 25, 2008

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Comments: There's a large, loose block just below the second bolt that we marked with an 'x'. I also had a phonebook-sized chunk come off higher up. SO, be careful on this route.


Location: NH : Band M (CLOSED) : Jungle Work (5.11+ PG13)
By: Brian Boyd When: Sep 13, 2008

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Comments: FA was done on Aug 28 & 29 of 1982.

I had learned how to hand jam on the crack machines that were up in the attic above Eastern Mountain Sports. Inspired by much better climbers who would run laps, I went home and built a 30' roof crack that ranged from thin hands to fist. Albert Dow and Kenny Sims has introduced me to Warren Zevon's music, and I listened to the song 'Jungle Work' a lot while climbing in my basement. So, the name seemed like a good fit.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : ... : Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride (5.9)
By: Brian Boyd When: Nov 6, 2006

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Comments: First two pitches are stiff for the grade, but very cool.

The fourth pitch is challenging as well. The pitch wanders a bit, the mantle move is above a ledge, left of the bolt, and my belayer couldn't see me at all. So, it seemed like a good chance of hitting the ledge below if you blew the move.

At the summit, the bolts are on the opposite side of the formation from where you top out.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Mayflower (5.9)
By: Brian Boyd When: Sep 25, 2006

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Comments: The upper handcrack is friendly, but long. Think I placed four #2 camalots and a #3 in the upper corner. There was a fixed cam that nicely protected the step across as of September '06.