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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Railroad Tracks (5.10)
By: Brian Alexander When: Oct 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun warm up.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Short and Stupid (5.8+)
By: Brian Alexander When: Apr 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short but nice. Great warm up.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Blue Gramma (5.11-)
By: Brian Alexander When: Apr 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was very difficult for me, as are most laybacks at Indian Creek. I used lots of cams from 0.3 to #1 Camalot (especially 0.75), and one #2 Camalot at the top. No need for anything larger, despite what the description says.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Black Uhuru (5.10)
By: Brian Alexander When: Apr 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A single 60m easily reaches the huge ledge right off the ground, but remember to put a knot in the end. I was happy to have one #3 Camalot at the top before the mantle.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Battle of the Bulge (5.11)
By: Brian Alexander When: Jan 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I only used #0.75 and #1 Camalots. I have very fat hands and it was ring locks most of the way for me.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Cave Route (5.10d)
By: Brian Alexander When: Sep 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have fat hands and this route was very difficult for me. I placed several 0.75 Camalots through the middle section in addition to lots of #1s. #2 Friends would have been a little more convenient but Camalots worked fine.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Mercy Street (5.10b)
By: Brian Alexander When: Mar 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Photos are available on Eric and Lucy's Bus Trip
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dog Wall : Pleasure Dog (aka It's a Bi... (5.10b)
By: Brian Alexander When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First bolt is a little high with a very dangerous landing. A stick-clip might be nice.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dog Wall : Cat Walk (5.10a)
By: Brian Alexander When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First bolt is a little high with a very dangerous landing. A stick-clip might be nice.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Sacred Undergarment Squeeze... (5.8)
By: Brian Alexander When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First bolt still missing. We just clipped the first remaining bolt while lowering down from an adjacent route.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Boneheads (5.10b)
By: Brian Alexander When: Oct 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun 10a linkup would be to climb the excellent starting crack of Babble On then pull up onto the face of Boneheads before the traverse under the overhang. Bring a few cams from 2-3.5 inches for the starting crack, but the face above is well protected by bolts.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Nurdle (5.8)
By: Brian Alexander When: Oct 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Supertopo says doubles to 4 inches, but you really don't need anything larger than a #3. I placed one #4 C4 at the 5.6 wide bit (smaller protection was available) but the old style #4 that I carried went unused.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: Brian Alexander When: Oct 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the bolts is missing on the first rap. There's just one bolt with a severely bent hanger. Kinda sketchy.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: Brian Alexander When: Oct 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We left the car at 6:30am and got stuck behind a hopelessly slow and sketchy party. We spent most of the day waiting at belays and barely finished the raps before dark, and to make matters worse the sketchy party dropped a cam and several rocks. Also, we were crowded from below by agro parties even though we were doing our best to tailgate and try to pass the slow party, who refused requests to pass.
I recommend a #0 C3 or equivalent for the 50 Crowded variation. I didn't bring one and to... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Over The Rainbow (5.10a)
By: Brian Alexander When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun and well bolted, but the slab climbing gets a little repetitive. It makes a great way to start the Squamish Buttress or Ultimate Everything if there are crowds on Diedre.
A single set of cams to 2 inches is plenty. You don't need any nuts. We linked the last two pitches with a single 60m rope and had a few meters left.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : SM's Delight (5.10b)
By: Brian Alexander When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of my favorite routes of the grade in the Smoke Bluffs. Bring a small rack from the yellow TCU to #1 Camalot. I placed 1 #2 cam near the top.
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