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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : The Thing (5.13-)
By: BrettPierce When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: DTP,
Cool video, and nice send.
On your second to last move, you put your right hand in the undercling scoop and then go for the jug.
I put my left hand into the same undercling and then go all the way to the top.
Lee,
Didn't think that at all; I was just offering up a different view.
Cheers,
Brett
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : The Thing (5.13-)
By: BrettPierce When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like to think that climbing is about being smart and figuring out the line of weakness, not necessarily the line everyone else has done.
Staying directly on the arete, without stemming over, stays completely on the bolt line and is an easier version of the route. Why bother contriving this route when there is a more efficient way of doing it?
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail : Gilman Canyon : Gilman Canyon Crags
By: BrettPierce When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is the rating of the steep route with the fixed-chain draws? and the route to the right of it?
They both look like nice routes.
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Location: WA : Spokane Area : Minnehaha : The Dihedral (5.9+) : Photo
By: BrettPierce When: Jun 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my all-time favorite climbs.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Da Fly (5.13a)
By: BrettPierce When: Jun 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I pulled off the big clipping hold over the bulge. Now you have to clip off of the sloper undercling or the sideways dyno hold, and then go from there all the way up to the two finger pockets. It feels quite a bit harder to me.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Section M : Space for the Papa (5.12a)
By: BrettPierce When: May 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Michael,
Glad to see that you got around to repointing this thing.
Cheers,
Brett
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Purple and Green (5.10d)
By: BrettPierce When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a 3 or 4 bolt extension to this that goes at 12a and is called Blue and Black.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Bloody Corner (5.10c R)
By: BrettPierce When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jarthur,
Have you actually climbed this route?
This route is very atypical of Rifle, and it could be lead on gear.
I have climbed this route and a fair bit in Eldo, and I don't think it was an unrealistic comment. I don't think it feels much different than the Yellow Spur crux pitch.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Tired Arms Recovery Program... (5.9+)
By: BrettPierce When: Feb 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A nice, moderate addition that is bolted well.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cash Wall : Cash in the Vault (5.13a)
By: BrettPierce When: Jan 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are a lot of decent intermediate holds on this route, making for many ways to climb this. I think this would be a great first 13a for a good technical climber who can stand on his/her feet since there are no overly reachy sections nor any tweaky, funky hard moves on this by Shelf standards.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road
By: BrettPierce When: Jan 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 50s and direct sun is shirt off weather for Shelf.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Lucy in the Sky (5.10c)
By: BrettPierce When: Jan 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I will second the opinion that this anchor is not the best. Why have them so far apart?
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Location: ID : Chimney Rock : Photo
By: BrettPierce When: Dec 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tim Ray taught me how to telemark in 1980 on the "Magic Carpet." Not only was Tim a solid climber, he was also an international XC racer.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Section M : Arioso (5.11b)
By: BrettPierce When: Nov 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Michael,
As I have said before, I am more than happy to sit down and talk with you if you have concerns, but for whatever reason you refuse.
Sincerely,
Brett
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ed Rock
By: BrettPierce When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: No, it is close to but separate.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Just Another 5.14 (aka "Cou... (5.11b)
By: BrettPierce When: Sep 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The moniker in the new guide is "Another 5.14". A good juggy route that has cleaned up pretty well.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Amphitheater : Slick Willard (5.9)
By: BrettPierce When: Sep 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA -- Brett Pierce.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs
By: BrettPierce When: Aug 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jacob, both are true. You can pick up a permit at the visitor center and the chalk at Mt. Chalet.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.10a)
By: BrettPierce When: Jul 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 and P2 can be combined without rope drag being a concern.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : South Pipe Route (5.7+)
By: BrettPierce When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, a 70M will just get you down, but make sure to tie a note at the end of the rope since not all 70M ropes are actually 70M.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space
By: BrettPierce When: May 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ben and Ed Schmidt, the route equippers, were not happy with the quality of the routes, so despite my pleas to the contrary, they decided to strip the route.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Resolution Arete (5.10 A1)
By: BrettPierce When: Apr 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux pitch would be 11c if it were a sport route.
We took the wrong gully into oak creek and ended up doing six or so rappels. We obviously were not the first people to take this gully since we were rapping off of old cams for several of the raps.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : Hully Gully (WI3+)
By: BrettPierce When: Feb 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I stand corrected. The following is from Pete G.
Hi Brett,
I am in complete agreement with you about posting climbs on private property, particularly when they are expressly out of bounds, and where the land owner has had people prosecuted for tresspass.
That being said, it is no longer the case at Hully Gully. Three years ago, Rick Gieman, in one of his last efforts before retiring from Colorado Springs Park & Rec Dept., was able to secure an easment for CS Park and Rec. from the Hills, who ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : Hully Gully (WI3+)
By: BrettPierce When: Feb 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is on PRIVATE PROPERTY. Please remove this route from the database.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Travis is Soul King (5.10a)
By: BrettPierce When: Feb 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the ground this doesn't look like much, but it sure is some fun climbing.
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