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Contributions
| All (15) | Routes | Areas | Photos | Comments (6) | Posts (7) | Stars (1) | Ratings (1) | |
Contributed Comments | | |
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Blue Sun (5.10-)
By: Bret When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: Spectacular route. YMMV, but I'd go a bit heavier on #2 camalots and lighter on the #3's (maybe 4 or 5 and 2, respectively).
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : The Monk (5.10)
By: Bret When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: Quality route. As of 10/31/09 the anchors are now drilled pins and they look fine, though the slings will eventually need replacement. To avoid walking and backcleaning, 2 #3.5 (or new 4) Camalots and 3 #3 Camalots nicely protect the bottom 50' of fistness. Old #4 camalots are too big.
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Ship Of Fools (5.9+)
By: Bret When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: Was just there this last weekend and a good chunk of the #3 camalot (or 3 Friend) placement Larry Coats references had fallen off! So now, there's a 2 lobe #3 placement protecting the crux sidepull move(which has also gotten smaller but not much, if any, harder according to friends that did the route).
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : The Peacemaker (5.10a)
By: Bret When: Feb 27, 2008 | view comment >> | Comments: If this grade is near your limit, I'd recommend a single set of cams up to #1 BD and a set of nuts. There's maybe 4-6 placements across the first few pitches, YMMV. The climbing is great, maybe my fave on the buttress. First time I did it, I was struck by how much of the climbing is at grade, seemed like at least half of the moves on the route were 5.10 or 10-.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Fortress : The Rupley Route (5.9)
By: Bret When: Nov 5, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: Descent: If you don't want to do the 5th class over the hump steelmonkey describes (and it didn't look very appealing to us), there's another option, but it may or may not be much easier. As you top out follow the cleft back and down to the left. There will be a point when it looks 5th class, look down about 15-20' there's a sling (obviously, check the condition of this sling). You may want a belay, we didn't, but climb down a slightly tricky stepdown section to the sling and do a single rope ra... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Chimney Rock : Stoner's Boner (5.9)
By: Bret When: Nov 5, 2004 | view comment >> | Comments: Did it twice, two years apart. The first time I did it, I pulled around left of the roof. Then, last year, I pulled around right. Unless I've gotten much better over the last couple of years, I thought the lefthand variation was both more awkward and scarier. The right was great with better pro above the roof. YMMV but either way the climbing below the roof is exciting. -Bret
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