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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Pony Express (5.11c)
By: brentapgar When: Nov 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are currently no wasps and an oldish looking (though solid) fixed stopped at the crux of Pony Express. I don't know about anyone else, but I would recommend against Tom F's suggestion of slinging the jug flake just after the crux. The thing is pretty creaky and you get great gear after just one more move, not worth risking sending a sizable missile down at your belayer or anyone below IMO. -BA
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Merry Men (5.11b)
By: brentapgar When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just an update. Did this route today and someone has been generous enough to fix the anchor situation referred to above. There is a sold two bolt anchor w/ rings directly above the line of the climb.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Soldier Without Faith (5.10b)
By: brentapgar When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: MJM-
Thanks for taking the time and effort to put up some fun lines over in this area. They may not be particularly long or uber classic but they're all worthy additions in my opinion.
I would agree that the start to Soldier is less than great but for whatever reason the last half moving out to and around the hanging arete was great. I think it's one of the better 10s on the wall.
cheers, BA
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Smoke Down (5.11a)
By: brentapgar When: Jul 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure that this is a full three star route, but it's certainly worth doing. It's very engaging for how short it is.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Synchronicity Area : The Carousel
By: brentapgar When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Carousel is one of the centerpieces of Santee bouldering. IMO it has some of the best pure friction problems on it, granted a couple of them are eliminates, but this boulder is definitely worth visiting.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World
By: brentapgar When: Apr 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: To the Admin-
It's nice the way the Animal World home page is organized w/ all the routes listed starting from one side of the cliff, even if there isn't a pg. specifically for every route. It helps immensely when trying to figure out the overall layout of the area. It would be great if more of the pages describing an area were organized this way.
Just my 2cents worth.
cheers, BA
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Watermark : Lothlorien (5.8)
By: brentapgar When: Mar 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure why this route doesn't have a higher star average. I'm not sure what more you could ask for from a slab route at the 5.7 grade. The rock is super clean and solid; the climbing is consistent throughout. It's certainly worth coming to the watermark just to get on this one route. Cheers, BA
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pebble Boulder : Strege Problem (V5)
By: brentapgar When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: IMO this one of the more fun, continuously slopey (except for one hold) problems on Flag, a definite must do. -BA
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Klimbink is Verbolten (5.11d)
By: brentapgar When: Feb 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very bouldery start leads to fun movement up the pillar. If you want to keep it fun overall I would suggest stick clipping the 2nd bolt and not risking a potential broken ankle... but after all they're your ankles. BA
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Tooth and Nail (5.11a/b)
By: brentapgar When: Jan 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is actually quite good, w/ a little more traffic the munge on the slab will clean up and the last few little flaky chips will get pulled off. Getting to the first bolt is easily protected w/ either small cams or wires.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : I lean (5.11a)
By: brentapgar When: Nov 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super good just couldn't quite give it the fourth star.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : The Dune (5.10a)
By: brentapgar When: Nov 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Would get an extra star from me if I wasn't worried about some questionable holds on the 2nd half of the route. I agree that it would be an "exciting" lead for someone at the grade.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Tales of Power (5.11b)
By: brentapgar When: Nov 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll second what David said. The 2nd pitch has got to be one of the best pure friction slabs around. It would be a classic no matter what area it was in.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Slender Fungus (5.10c)
By: brentapgar When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just wanted to give a heads up. The new shelf guide mentions a lower set of anchors on this route, there is one good bolt and a very bent open shut as the first set of anchors. It is possible to easily traverse at the first set of anchors to the L and reach the anchors on flash back to acid beach. Which also has one good cold shut and the other (the right side) is almost completely worn through. -BA
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : The Baroque Period (5.8)
By: brentapgar When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: MJM-
Thanks for the work on this line. I thought it was a worthy addition to the Prow, fun climbing w/ some variety. cheers, BA
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : The Spider's Den : Spiders and Snakes (5.12a)
By: brentapgar When: Sep 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very fun route and certainly very different compared to the vertical, technical climbing typical of Upper Dream.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : Ironsides : Void Where Prohibited (5.11a PG13)
By: brentapgar When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a nice fat, solid bolt at the redpoint crux (5th bolt) when the pump is setting in. There were hangers on all the bolts as of this date but the first couple of nuts are loose and the third bolt hanger is a spinner and it seams as though the nut has been stripped onto the bolt.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : Ironsides : Port Side (5.6)
By: brentapgar When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is actually a good route for the grade. The rock is a little more friable down low but the second half of the route is solid and takes great gear.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : Ironsides : Alloy Madness (5.10d)
By: brentapgar When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route today, it's a fantastic route, awesome movement on solid rock and it's fairly consistent throughout. A 70m rope should get you back to the ground if you do it in one pitch but just barely and about half the nuts on the bolts were loose, including both anchors, unfortunately I did not have a wrench w/ me... and my fingers aren't that strong.
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Location: WA : Exit 38 / Deception Crags &... : Nevermind Wall : Cultureshock (5.12a)
By: brentapgar When: Jul 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is probably one of the best for the grade at either exit 38 or 32, definitely worth heading up to Nevermind wall simply for it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Mercy Drilling (5.12a)
By: brentapgar When: Jul 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really good route. Technical and powerful. My two cents worth: I agree w/ Joe in that I don't think that the route is any harder w/out the mono. -BA
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Superratic Pillar : Great White Behemoth (5.12a/b)
By: brentapgar When: Jul 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This has got to be one of the best routes for the grade... anywhere. Or as Huey says "KREIKKEYS!!! HOLY SHIT!!! DO THIS ROUTE!!!"
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Fool (5.10d)
By: brentapgar When: Jul 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two more routes have gone in and this is now the 6th bolted line from the left as you're looking at the second tier.
BA
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Confusing Confucius (5.10d)
By: brentapgar When: Jun 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few suspect holds when I was on it but otherwise a fun route. It's nice since it requires some thinking and is a little different than most of the gorge routes.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Phantasmagoria (5.11a)
By: brentapgar When: Jun 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch of this rte is really quite fun and the pro is straight fwd and solid. I would agree that it is a one move wonder, which by the way is completely bolt protected, but I didn't find any loose rock, perhaps it has cleaned up a little. With a little more traffic the little potato chips and stray lichen would all be gone. I think it's definitely worth doing and there's never anyone on it.
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