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Location: AZ : Panther Peak : Beast Boulder : Righteous Beast (V6+)
By: Brent Silvester When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My fat a$$ broke another hold off. One of the jugs in the beginning is gone. So, I suppose, that's my effort to keep the climbing more in the grade. Won't change much though, but we'll see what I pull off next time.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Mount Bigelow : Butterfly Wall : Stoop (5.11b)
By: Brent Silvester When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: THIN face climbing. It kind of gets hard really quickly, but leads to a really fun finsih.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Mount Bigelow : Trundle Pinnacle : Pollinator (5.10a)
By: Brent Silvester When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bit of history: this was the first route we climbed out here. It was awesome, and a day to remember. It was a little disappointing to see so much lose rock at the top of the pinnacle, I know we both wanted to stand on top. We found a "great" 1/4 bolt up there (probably from the Baker era), and made an anchor to get down. The next time up, we went with a drill to install an anchor and start putting in routes, which ended up with us getting rained out and bumming. I remember feeling like we w... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Mount Bigelow : Trundle Pinnacle : Draw Iron (5.11d)
By: Brent Silvester When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A really great route involving some wild pockets in the middle. The rating on this was a consensous rating, but might feel stiff for shorter folks. Traversing the lip out over the roof, in my honest opinion, is a really exciting and fun finish (three stars). Heading straight up is substantially easier (two stars). So if you're gonna do it more than once, try both ways and see what you think.
Either way you slice it, this route is nicely overhung, and pretty varried on some of the nicest r... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Mount Bigelow : Trundle Pinnacle : Pocket Protector (5.10c)
By: Brent Silvester When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ohhhh yeah. The best, and only, warm up route for the area. I might have climbed this route almost 10 times, and it's keeps getting more and more fun!!!! If your climbing at this grade, I would recommend this route highly.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Middle Earth : The Breeze (5.11c)
By: Brent Silvester When: Oct 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ya'll are crazy, and maybe old.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Middle Earth : The Breeze (5.11c)
By: Brent Silvester When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess I must have found all the jugs, and managed to skip the bad holds. Perhaps, someone with less reach, or shorter than me might find it more difficult. It was originally rated .11a anyway . . . so .10d isn't that far off.
Comparing this to Planet Eater, I think this route is easier. I would imagine with wet epoxy holds though, this would feel considerably more difficult.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Matterhorn Boulder : Big Bad Wolf (V9)
By: Brent Silvester When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: CLIMBING IS FUN! Right?
For what its worth, in my opinon, the V7 seam to the left feels harder than "big bad wolf". I'd agree the crux of Jewl Theif is the top, but I think it feels harder when you do all the hard moves to get there. It's a little more relaxed using the jugs on "big bad wolf". But whatever, the climbing is fun and the rock is good.
I like where Joe's heads at. We've obviously gotten attached to our local boulders, and hopefully we can all co-exist in peace. There is st... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Matterhorn Boulder : The Flake Left (V6 PG13)
By: Brent Silvester When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: PG 13?? The branch would be more of an issue for the V8 to the left of this problem, but not an issue for this climb. They don't make landings better than this one, and it's not tall.
The climbing is good though. One exceedingly sharp hold. In my opinion, the right variation is a little more fun.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Golden Beaver (5.12+)
By: Brent Silvester When: May 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work on the route David. Glad to hear you got it.
Also updated FA information. Thanks rickd for the update. Hopefully more people will continue to get on this route.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow... : Aerial Combat (5.11)
By: Brent Silvester When: Apr 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the right hand variation to the route. Really fun on sight. It was like four mini-routes (steep start, slab, roof, easy finish) combined together. Didn't have tape, and I would agree that it would be nice to have. Seems like the route could take gear, so if that's your thing, it would be an amazing effort to lead it that way. Will try the left hand variation next time.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Vistacruiser (5.7 PG13)
By: Brent Silvester When: Jan 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. A really great route to climb during sunset. A buddy of mine followed me up the route, and had to stop to admire the sunset and twinkling light of Tucson below. Wouldn't recommend this route to someone breaking into leading 5.7.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow... : Blood Book (5.10-)
By: Brent Silvester When: Jan 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One Pitch Wonder!!! Definatly worth the hike for this route. I would say there are too many no hands rests to be a .10. A solid 5.9 lead. Eveytime I climb it, I find differents ways to protect it. Lovely route.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow...
By: Brent Silvester When: Dec 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the development. Just went yesterday and had a blast. Unfortunately we forgot to bring gear, and what a mistake that turned out to be. Watch out for the cat claw acacia if you wander off the trails. Can't wait to get back there.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : North Fin : Nang (5.10a)
By: Brent Silvester When: Dec 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the guide book it says to walk off this thing. Has anyone done that? Looks a little stressful.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Golden Beaver (5.12+)
By: Brent Silvester When: Dec 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: David Merin and others out there,
Since this appears to still be an issue, I will post this to hopefully clarify, and resolve the situation.
I can understand everyone's attachment to the bolts, and seeing as it's not my FA (and the FA, as I understand it, climbed that section with pins), I'm not gonna do anything but climb the route on gear, and be happy that Mother Nature set this wonderful route. Weather there are bolts there or not, it is still an amazing line. I think, in my opinion, t... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Golden Beaver (5.12+)
By: Brent Silvester When: Dec 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, December and January would be excellent times of the year to spend by the beaver wall. Maybe not when it is windy though. A good rule of thumb is that it's usually 15-20 degrees cooler at windy point than in the basin. So if it's 60 in town, you can expect it to be around 40 degrees.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Peanut Boulders : Square Top Boulder : Aretey Done (V0-)
By: Brent Silvester When: Oct 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: again, an amazing line which is fun for everyone. A relativly flat landing eases the mind for a newer climber. The pads can be moved to assist with the down climb.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Peanut Boulders : Geometry Boulder : Euclid (V0)
By: Brent Silvester When: Oct 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The sit start is actually behind the bush. I highly recommend this route for all climbers. Super easy walk off too, so that nice for newer climbers getting into bouldering.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Peanut Boulders : WTF Area : Logjammin' (V4)
By: Brent Silvester When: Oct 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: maybe a V0+, maybe. Tape might be useful if you want to try it more than once. "I'm here to fix your cable"
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Golden Beaver (5.12+)
By: Brent Silvester When: Jul 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: After getting on it yet again, I have to bump it up another star. This is one of the best 12's I have been on since I moved here. Get your small gear together and get on it.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Reef of Rocks : Neptune : Jaws (5.8)
By: Brent Silvester When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To start, I'll tell ya it's the best 5.8 that I've done on that mountain. Really interesting climbing, getting you into places very few climber, let alone people ever see. It is especially exciting to struggle half way through the chimney, and look up the crack to see a sliver of sky. Extremely fun climbing.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Golden Beaver (5.12+)
By: Brent Silvester When: Jun 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Plus, it's fun skipping the bolts. You feel cooler . . . well not really.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Golden Beaver (5.12+)
By: Brent Silvester When: Jun 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I bet you thought it was dead, but i'm bringing it back. I was up on it, placing gear and getting scared (way past those two bolts). While up there I realized that the bolts are where you get some of the best gear, two solid TCU's go there, but where the crap gear goes, no bolts. Weird. I suppose the piton is justified, but the bolts are pointless, in my opinion.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Hebe (5.14-)
By: Brent Silvester When: May 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well thanks guys. Looks like it might be a nice late afternoon project, and a good one to train on. And being right next to the Golden Beaver, double trouble. . .
As for chipping holds, it blows my mind. But, you can't change the past. Hopefully future generations will co-exist with the rock in a little friendlier manner. Of course I am saying this before I get on the route. The chipped holds might come in handy during red-point attempts.
Thanks Again
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