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Dinner at the Chasm View Hotel


Member Since: Oct 20, 2002
Last Visit: Mar 5, 2014
Contact Brent Roaten


Point Rank: # 1,967
Total Points: 293
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brent Roaten been climbing?










Contributions


All 111 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 44 | Page Improvements | Comments 23 | Posts | Stars 25 | Ratings 14

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Hyperbola (5.10a R) : Photo
By: Brent Roaten When: Apr 5, 2007

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Comments: Agreed..but I think the rest of the pics illustrate that point well!


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : The Nose (5.8) : Photo
By: Brent Roaten When: Apr 1, 2007

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Comments: The pic was not rotated intentionally but certainly comes out looking steeper than it actually is. I just thought it was a nice shot.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Hyperbola (5.10a R)
By: Brent Roaten When: Mar 22, 2007

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Comments: Climbed in September 2005 with Dave Pearson. One of the best routes I have ever climbed anywhere. The traverse definitely tightens up one's sphincter. Probably best to tackle the 5.11 start if you are not a solid slab aficionado.... a fall in the difficult section beyond the bolt will not end well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Brent Roaten When: Feb 22, 2007

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Comments: My experience with the gear placements in the old pin scar was similar to that of Greg's. I also used a grey and purple Metolius TCU and was looking directly at the placements rather than placing them blindly. After moving through the corner, I placed a brass nut and promptly fell onto it, ripping it out and dropping my 225 lb onto the cams. They held and I was able to finish the route. The stance to the left of the corner is a tenuous stem on small edges but worth the effort I suppose to get in... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Fields' Chimney (summer)
By: Brent Roaten When: Oct 18, 2006

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Comments: Yep. Been there. When making an early start on the Diamond make sure you have your bearings correct before you start up this lovely line instead of the North Chimney. One September morning Dave Pearson and I were heading for the Casual Route via the North Chimney, and by the time I realized our..er my mistake... we were witnessing the Field's Chimney ice route forming. While I'm certain it makes a fine mixed route later in the season, it was quite the challenge climbing wet rock and thin ice wit... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: Brent Roaten When: Aug 21, 2006

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Comments: Anyone getting on this route now is in for a big surprise between the pins on the second pitch.....there is a hornet's nest beneath the flake. My partner and I were stung several times.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Hard-Up (5.9+)
By: Brent Roaten When: May 30, 2006

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Comments: Fun one move wonder pulling over the lip. The gear is actually very good below the roof and a bomber #7 stopper can be slotted sideways at the lip. Even on heavy traffic days, I have never seen anyone on this route and it is an excellent approach to access the ledge above for metamorphosis, left out, etc.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Left Out (5.9- R)
By: Brent Roaten When: May 30, 2006

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Comments: Climbed again on 5/29 and retrieved my gear. In the picture Luke Clarke is to the right of the arete whereas I was left of the arete at the same level on 5/28 and the climbing is significantly more difficult. On 5/29, stepping to the right I found an excellent cam placement under the roof and then proceeded straight up the arete...much easier. If you are comfortable going above your gear, do not shy away from this excellent route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Left Out (5.9- R)
By: Brent Roaten When: May 28, 2006

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Comments: Did this route today also linking it with Hard Up. I must say this is a difficult and sustained route for the grade with significant runouts and pumpy stances for some difficult gear placements. There is a lot of loose rock on the route one of which hit my belayer in the ankle requiring multiple stitches. Because of the accident, I was forced to leave some nuts and draws at the top of the route. If any anyone cleans these, I would love to have them back. Despite the epic, the route is great as l... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Across The River From Butt ... (5.9 PG13)
By: Brent Roaten When: May 23, 2006

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Comments: Climbed this route on Sunday. First crux is the meat of the route though not that difficult it requires considerable commitment above "so-so" gear. A fall before reaching the thank god holds above would likely deposit you on the ledge below or worse, on your belayer. Continuing straight up the slab from the ledge is a bit contrived and essentially unprotectable unless you trust small sketchy wires. The second pitch is worthwhile though not done often as I had to clean lichen and grass out of the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Rastaman Roof (5.9+)
By: Brent Roaten When: Apr 27, 2006

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Comments: Linked this route with Boulder Direct yesterday rather than Reggae. Very well protected crux with solid hand jams above the roof.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Blows Against the Empire (5.11a)
By: Brent Roaten When: Mar 24, 2006

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Comments: I've climbed many 10s in Eldo and a few 11s...certainly this route is a one move wonder but far from 10a. Perhaps, for a slabmaster, this route is easier than the first pitch of Outer Space, but for me it was thought provoking and a bit of a challenge. I think the rating is solid.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Strawberry Shortcut (5.9+)
By: Brent Roaten When: Nov 27, 2005

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Comments: Did this route yesterday but had not read these comments prior. The gear up to the crux is great. However, unless I completely missed something, you can't get in gear until after you have pulled the crux and made a move a bit up the slab. If you fall pulling the crux with the last piece below you and to the left (see Ernie's photo) it could be ugly and merits an "S" rating. The move is [committing] and I thought 5.9+ was right on...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Auburn Lane (5.10-)
By: Brent Roaten When: Oct 16, 2005

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Comments: Did this today while waiting for Moonlight Drive to open up and found it to be a worthwhile route. As stated above, the route is definitely a one or two move wonder. The 5.9 dihedrals and roof above are really very good and would get 3 stars anywhere else in the canyon. The huge loose rocks at the top are scary. Definitely worth doing!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Highway of Diamonds (5.9+)
By: Brent Roaten When: Oct 15, 2005

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Comments: Climbed on 10/9. Great route. I would have to agree that the first pitch is X though it is fairly mellow face climbing. A fall before reaching the secure finger crack would not end well. As for the second pitch, I am not sure what the original line is but skirting to the right seems more in line with a 5.9 rating than going straight up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mickey Mouse Nailup (5.9+ R)
By: Brent Roaten When: Sep 19, 2005

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Comments: Climbed this route last weekend. From the above comments I was expecting manky pins and runout moves protectable only with small wires and found neither. The climbing is secure with decent rest stances. I was able to supplement the pins with bomber though somewhat tricky gear. The last pin with the perlon sling is definitely suspect but I was able to place a #1 Camalot just above it. Some difficult moves are made above your gear so I wouldn't recommend the route to the new 5.9 leader but ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Trouble And Strife (5.10c)
By: Brent Roaten When: Sep 5, 2005

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Comments: Fun linkup to Star Wars. #6 BD stopper, blue Alien, #2 Camalot, #3 Camalot for the traverse, and a #1 Camalot for the final paired cracks.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Reflections (WI3-4)
By: Brent Roaten When: Jan 3, 2005

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Comments: Climbed Reflections on 12/18/04 and found great conditions in the area. The curtain start looked much more interesting than the standard flow on the left though from Neil's picture, it seems thinner than last year. The final approach from the Black Lake trail involved deep snow and talus but was worth it.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge
By: Brent Roaten When: Dec 5, 2004

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Comments: Climbed Black Lake Slabs yesterday with Rick Casey. The route is well worth the hike but it's not as thick as when I've climbed it in mid-winter. The other routes around black lake including the West Gulley, Stone Man, Reflections and Scotty all look to be in good condition.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Flakes (5.9)
By: Brent Roaten When: Sep 26, 2003

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Comments: I highly recommend combing this pitch with Cest la mort rather than traversing over to Whistle Stop. The flakes, cest la mort and the crux of whistle stop make for an interesting long 3-star pitch but rope drag could be an issue if you don't carefully place your slings.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Wolf's Tooth (5.8)
By: Brent Roaten When: Sep 26, 2003

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Comments: Did this route last weekend and was somewhat surprised at the difficulty considering the 5.8 rating. The route is certainly stiff for the grade if comparing it routes in Eldo or elsewhere in Boulder but is probably not much harder than Huston's crack (5.8+) on Cobb Rock. The 5.9 finish is much easier than the 5.8 below! The route is excellent (3 stars) but might not be a good choice for the new 5.8 leader although the gear is excellent.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Allosaur (5.9 R)
By: Brent Roaten When: Jan 14, 2003

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Comments: This is a great route with adequate protection on the first pitch if you are creative. The entire route can easily be done as a single pitch with a 60m rope and carefully placed slings.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverplume & vicinity : Silverplume Falls (WI3)
By: Brent Roaten When: Jan 13, 2003

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Comments:

The area is still a vertical slush pile as of 1/10/03. There are a couple of lines worth doing but I wouldn't trust screws to hold a fall under these conditions.