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Rock Climbing Photo: Huck Yeah!


Member Since: Apr 6, 2009
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 28
Total Points: 10,923
Last Year: 1,126
Last 30 Days: 66
64 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has BBQ been climbing?










Contributions


All 2990 | Routes 440 | Areas 43 | Photos 1148 | Page Improvements 11 | Comments 100 | Posts 133 | Stars 895 | Ratings 220
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Tall Cliffs : Jet Screamin' Hooter Queens (5.11b)
By: BBQ When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: I have never been to the Black Cliffs. I actually consider Idaho to be a flyover state, but goddamnit, I really, really want to go climb this route now.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Shadowlands : Wall of Wow : Tubular! (5.11d)
By: BBQ When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: The climbing is very fun. The rock that makes up this route is bomber, some of the best in the area. The only thing that is crappy is your attitude.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Dark Side : Dark Side Wall : Mister Fister (5.11a)
By: BBQ When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: All the superior local climbers warm up on this one. Three to four stars for sure! But I know what you mean, I was in a gym, in Boulder, just the other day, and some dust on the plastic hold at the crux ruined my send. So irritating.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Shadowlands : The Court House Wall : The Juvenile (5.12a)
By: BBQ When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: The absurd bolting is for those awesome climbers who have done the route a lot and can handle the absurd bolting. Stick clipping the second is common practice in these parts, especially on routes like this one, don't feel ashamed for doing so.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Dark Side : Dark Side Wall : Power of the Darkside (5.11d)
By: BBQ When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Of course the descriptions are useless. I am always very tired when I write them. For a better perspective on Spearfish Canyon rock climbing, you should refer to Climbing Magazine. Now THEY do a great job of making people want to come here so they poo-poo our playground.

Oh wait a minute, I make all those people want to come here...since I provided all the text those interns copied and pasted into those fabulous articles.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Shadowlands : Wall of Wow : Wow! (5.12b)
By: BBQ When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: I have fallen all over this climb and the bolts and their spacing were never an issue for me. Get on it!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Shadowlands : The Court House Wall : Badgering the Witness a.k.a... (5.11a)
By: BBQ When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Oh my God, Michalm! This "Drilled Pockets" on the "Drilled Sergeant" controversy again. So boring...

Going to sleep now.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Dark Side : Dark Side Wall : Choobies (5.11d)
By: BBQ When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: We over star everything in the canyon to sandbag people like you, Michalm. Now get back in that WHAAAM-bulance, and go back to Boulder, and be sure to stop at McDonalds and order some french CRIES while you're at it.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Shadowlands : Wall of Wow : Cowabunga! (5.10c)
By: BBQ When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Good! Don't climb it, ever. That way there won't be a line when I want to.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Shadowlands : Wall of Wow
By: BBQ When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Holy crap, Michalm...does that Liberal Arts University in Boulder offer a class in critiquing rock climbs? Why do you Boulderites even bother to come here if everything sucks so bad? Why don't you just stay south of our border, climb your own choss, let us have our fun and a few PARKING SPOTS why don't ya? The truth is, folks...this is one of the better walls in the area. Get on it and crush!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Skeletal Remains : Scar Face (5.9)
By: BBQ When: May 20, 2016

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Comments: Just remember the 11th Commandment. Thou shall stick clip.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Mount Baldy / "old baldy" : Old Baldy : Fritz's Forehead (5.9+)
By: BBQ When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: For those of you who don't have the pro or the guts to take on the upper part of the stemmy crack, it is easy to bail to the right and traverse to the second to last bolt of Curly's first pitch. Clip the final bolt and gain Curly's first anchor. Use long runners to reduce rope drag. Belay up your partner, get reestablished, and clip bolts to the a point where you are just under the roof of Curly's second pitch. Veer off to the left traversing on good holds and clip the bolt that you would encoun... more >>


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Bob's Buttress : Buffalo Sloper (5.13b/c)
By: BBQ When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: Mike,

The route has an initial roofy bulge pull that has difficult, small holds and the next 40 feet or so are delicate slab moves followed by terribly small pockets that you might have to throw for based on your height. The real crux is towards the top. Get in contact with Lee, he can spray ya down. The route is super-cool and definitely worth doing but I haven't gotten very far on it.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem...
By: BBQ When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, Bill...ya get used to it.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Sunshine : The Bunny Slope : Jack Rabbit (5.8)
By: BBQ When: Oct 2, 2015

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Comments: Looks like another job for the Canyon Custodian. It might be time to discuss glue in bolts for this wall.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Blue Sky : The Fishbowl : Static Experience (5.10c)
By: BBQ When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: So is the one star and choss comment for Static Experience or for The Righteous and the Wicked? Cuz if it is directed at Righteous, which is considered a classic, then you're gonna cause some more overly sensitive locals to become irate. We have each others' backs here, bud. And yes, we do get out. I go to Colorado a lot to climb and can't wait to come back home.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Blue Sky : The Fishbowl : Static Experience (5.10c)
By: BBQ When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: I have NEVER encountered choss on this route. And if the choss you removed didn't break your belayer's foot, then the route you did climb is ready for climbers. Just be sure to save some for the rest of us to bust off.


Location: SD : Horsethief Lake Area : Primal Wall Area : American Life (5.9-)
By: BBQ When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: I found this route to be the perfect escape from my not-so-perfect American Life. I broke no holds, thanks to all the people, who cleaned the choss before I got there, and experienced nothing but total bliss the whole time I was off the ground. I did the whole thing in one big pitch trailing two 70 meter ropes and rapped off without injury or insult. I found the climbing to be a lot easier than many other routes that claim the grade. And I even found an empty turtle shell by the creek...which is... more >>


Location: SD : Horsethief Lake Area : The Chessmen : Happiness is Water : Happiness is Whiskey (5.8)
By: BBQ When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: An absolute must do if you climb the grade! Starts rampy and gets overhung and sporty. Toss a few small cams into a seam and huck for some jugs and gain a bolt. After the exciting intro this climb becomes just as awesome as Baba Cool in terms of big crystally crimps and jugs where you want them. Clip a few more bolts that are spaced with a sensible Needles mentality gaining altitude on crimps and bomber chicken heads. You can grab and step on anything cuz the rock is superbly solid everywhere! B... more >>


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Shadowlands : Seepy Creepy Wall : Nightmare on Addie Street (5.11c/d)
By: BBQ When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: Candyman, 5.12c, Dr. Evil, 5.12c and Buffalo Bill, 5.12a


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Stonehenge : The Phoenix (5.13+ PG13)
By: BBQ When: Jul 28, 2015

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Comments: Good work, Chris! Keep getting after it!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Danks : Freakin' High (5.11a)
By: BBQ When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments:
  • edit. This route is awesome! Just be prepared to grin and bear the grit that may accumulate over the winter and spring if you are going for onsight. Or just brush a few holds and prepare yourself for a fun red point.



Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Danks : Hurtin' for a Squirtin' (5.12c)
By: BBQ When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Edit* Mr. Yeti seems like a pretty nice guy after all. This is one of my continuing projects and I will continue to climb it making sure that it sees the traffic needed for future accents to be enjoyable by visitors.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Danks
By: BBQ When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Oh the irony of it all. You come to South Dakota to escape the crowds in Colorado and then proceed to whine about dirty holds...that are probably dirty from a lack of traffic...due to the lack of crowds. Sorry if certain conditions, caused by nature, ruined your onsight. Bring a tooth brush. Bring extra chalk. Bring a better attitude. Drop the desire to onsight everything in sight because Spearfish Canyon climbing is about red pointing. Every climb, in every area, in Spearfish Canyon, has its im... more >>


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Danks
By: BBQ When: Jul 18, 2015

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Comments: Well, let's just hope that not-so-Gneiss guy never comes back, I like The Danks uncrowded anyway. But seriously, folks...I can assure you that Mr. Yeti's opinion is not held by the majority of climbers who have come to The Danks and actually enjoyed it.


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