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EBM, 5.11a <br />Sunshine Wall, Spearfish Canyon. <br />South Dakota.


Member Since: Apr 6, 2009
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Brent Larsen


Point Rank: # 37
Total Points: 8,582
Last Year: 1,791
Last 30 Days: 112
137 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2251 | Routes 304 | Areas 35 | Photos 990 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 67 | Posts 55 | Stars 648 | Ratings 151
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Sunshine : The Bunny Slope : Got a Pair Like a Hare (5.10d) : Photo
By: Brent Larsen When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: There is a ledge at the base of these routes that is covered in grass and dirt. There is plenty of room to belay but it is a good idea for the belayer to attach themselves to a cold shut at the base of each route.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Six : Empire State Building (5.10)
By: Brent Larsen When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: Mr. Gold,

Thanks for the information. My friends and I don't really know all that much about this formation or any routes associated with it, all we know is that the wavy crack climb is stellar. It might be 5.8 or 5.9 the higher you go up but it does have a crux move close the bottom that feels pretty hard so we assumed the grade to be around five ten.

Does your route to the right have a name? How about protection? Are there bolts or is it completely gear? It don't know how much traffic this f... more >>


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Dark Side : Dark Side Wall : Choobies (5.11d)
By: Brent Larsen When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: For all the Star Wars geeks, this information is straight out of Wookieepedia.

Choobies was a colloquial term used to refer to one's self or one's rear end. The expression "pain in the choobies" was often used to explain something that caused discomfort or was otherwise troublesome.

As far as I know, Choobies was never used in any of the movies but fans on the Star Wars book series will appreciate the vocabulary.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Youbet Jorasses : Inner Course (5.4)
By: Brent Larsen When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: Use doubles.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Theater of Shadows (5.7)
By: Brent Larsen When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: My wife and I climbed this route on our first day at the city of rocks. It was the highlight of our trip. Thanks for the route, Kevin. It is an absolute must do.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Ice Box
By: Brent Larsen When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Leave the trad gear in your vehicle. As of this year Ice Box is officially a pure sport climbing area with modern bolts and brand new hardware. There are four climbs just to the left of Two Kings and Queen that still have rusty hardware which you may wish to avoid. However, there are plenty of routes with nice, new shiny bolts to take the ride on and enjoy.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Shipyard Rock : All Tuckered Out (5.10a)
By: Brent Larsen When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: Loved it! Will definitely be putting this route into my spring training rotation from here on out. Sick moves, semi-rad exposure, unusual rock texture, a short nonshitty approach, and one hundred plus feet of clipping bolts make this one a must do.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Shipyard Rock : Tuck and Roll (5.10+)
By: Brent Larsen When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: Finally sacked up and bought a 70 meter rope and did All Tuckered Out and Tuck And Roll in one glorious, long pitch. Good fun!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Blue Sky : Indecent Exposure : Photo
By: Brent Larsen When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: That would be either Split Her or Booska. More than likely the latter since Waldo appears to be heading left. Good times!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Photo
By: Brent Larsen When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Nice, Wilson! Glad to see your still wasting your time as well as I do.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Tricouni Nail/Cerberus : Photo
By: Brent Larsen When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: Wilson! How's it going for ya?


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Blue Sky : Scavanger Wall : Turkey Vulture (5.12c) : Photo
By: Brent Larsen When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: A populous resident within Spearfish Canyon, the Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura) is also known as a "buzzard". It can be identified in flight by the tell-tale white pattern under the wings and by the fact that it is more "tipsy" in flight when compared to other raptors such as falcons and eagles.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Brent Larsen When: Jan 15, 2014

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Comments: I wouldn't say Rifle sucks...but Spearfish Canyon is better!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Sunshine : Big Black Face : Sir Slabs A Lot (5.10+)
By: Brent Larsen When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: Did this route get chopped?


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Ice Box
By: Brent Larsen When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: There are some sick new routes at Ice Box now. The Canyon Crew's future plans to renovate some older climbs with new hardware will soon make this area one of the best roadside crags in South Dakota. Come check this place out!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Thunderhead
By: Brent Larsen When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: Thunderhead receives some positive press. Congrats, Greg. Louder Than Eleven 100 days trip


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Cold Feat (5.9)
By: Brent Larsen When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: Not sandbagged in the least. It's easier than Classic Crack, easier than Over Exposure and probably a bit more difficult than Hrum Hroom but definitely easier than Waste Knot. I am glad the bolts are there, however, at least two bolts are close to features that do accept cams and nuts. Sweet flakes and jugs even though crimpers are there early on and are needed for many of the moves. Would be an excellent lead for someone who just crushed California Boys but doesn't have the trad gear placing sk... more >>


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Blue Sky : Lord Of The Flies Wall : Black Slabbath (5.12a)
By: Brent Larsen When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: This truly is the route that all other Spearfish Canyon 5.12a should be judged by. It has it all and then some. Absolutely, positively the sickest line I have ever done. If you only have one morning to spare on your road trip to our fine canyon, start your session with Tasting Time, then do Indecent Exposure, get on Slabbath and cool down with either The Beast or The Conch. You will not be disappointed. For me this was a cool, August morning that I will never forget. Thanks for bolting Black Sla... more >>


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Blue Sky : Lord Of The Flies Wall : The Beast (5.11d)
By: Brent Larsen When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: This is a route that lives up to its name. Pure sweet, sickness!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : TOWERS OF TEETH : ... : Waste Knot (5.8)
By: Brent Larsen When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: I believe the credit for the "official first accent" for this route has been lost to the annuals of time. However, an "updated" first accent can probably be credited to Darryl Stisser and Reggie Walters.

I also believe that this is one of those Black Hills climbs that falls into the category of "If you only have time for one climb at (insert location/at this grade) make it this one." THIS ROUTE IS SICK!


Location: AhK : Random : Photo
By: Brent Larsen When: Jul 12, 2013

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Comments: Nice rack.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Shadowlands : Fabled Creatures Wall : Centaur (5.10d) : Photo
By: Brent Larsen When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: This part of the wall is ultra tasty during autumn months. Nice pic!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Shadowlands : Delicacy Wall : Monkey Brain Stew (5.12a)
By: Brent Larsen When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: You don't need to stick clip the third bolt if you are already awesome. But it's not a bad idea to do so if your not too accomplished at 5.12 climbing yet or if you've never done the route before.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Near Downs : Fool of a Took (5.9-)
By: Brent Larsen When: Jun 8, 2013

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Comments: Loved it! This line is sick! Great pro through the cracks and the bolt placements are spot on. Thanks for the super-fun route, guys! Keep up the good work!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Shadowlands : The Dojo : Wax Off (5.12b)
By: Brent Larsen When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: If you're like me, it helps to double up your rack so you can fire off at both hips, and have a back-up, or two, in case you drop a draw as you gravel your way up this no rest wonder. Tough climb. Be prepared.


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