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Rock Climbing Photo: Huck Yeah!


Member Since: Apr 6, 2009
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 28
Total Points: 10,734
Last Year: 1,291
Last 30 Days: 155
60 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has BBQ been climbing?










Contributions


All 2926 | Routes 426 | Areas 42 | Photos 1146 | Page Improvements 8 | Comments 90 | Posts 131 | Stars 871 | Ratings 212
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Skeletal Remains : Scar Face (5.9)
By: BBQ When: May 20, 2016

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Comments: Just remember the 11th Commandment. Thou shall stick clip.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Mount Baldy / "old baldy" : Old Baldy : Fritz's Forehead (5.9+)
By: BBQ When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: For those of you who don't have the pro or the guts to take on the upper part of the stemmy crack, it is easy to bail to the right and traverse to the second to last bolt of Curly's first pitch. Clip the final bolt and gain Curly's first anchor. Use long runners to reduce rope drag. Belay up your partner, get reestablished, and clip bolts to the a point where you are just under the roof of Curly's second pitch. Veer off to the left traversing on good holds and clip the bolt that you would encoun... more >>


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Bob's Buttress : Buffalo Sloper (5.13b/c)
By: BBQ When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: Mike,

The route has an initial roofy bulge pull that has difficult, small holds and the next 40 feet or so are delicate slab moves followed by terribly small pockets that you might have to throw for based on your height. The real crux is towards the top. Get in contact with Lee, he can spray ya down. The route is super-cool and definitely worth doing but I haven't gotten very far on it.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem...
By: BBQ When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, Bill...ya get used to it.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Sunshine : The Bunny Slope : Jack Rabbit (5.8)
By: BBQ When: Oct 2, 2015

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Comments: Looks like another job for the Canyon Custodian. It might be time to discuss glue in bolts for this wall.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Blue Sky : The Fishbowl : Static Experience (5.10c)
By: BBQ When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: So is the one star and choss comment for Static Experience or for The Righteous and the Wicked? Cuz if it is directed at Righteous, which is considered a classic, then you're gonna cause some more overly sensitive locals to become irate. We have each others' backs here, bud. And yes, we do get out. I go to Colorado a lot to climb and can't wait to come back home.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Blue Sky : The Fishbowl : Static Experience (5.10c)
By: BBQ When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: I have NEVER encountered choss on this route. And if the choss you removed didn't break your belayer's foot, then the route you did climb is ready for climbers. Just be sure to save some for the rest of us to bust off.


Location: SD : Horsethief Lake Area : Primal Wall Area : American Life (5.9-)
By: BBQ When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: I found this route to be the perfect escape from my not-so-perfect American Life. I broke no holds, thanks to all the people, who cleaned the choss before I got there, and experienced nothing but total bliss the whole time I was off the ground. I did the whole thing in one big pitch trailing two 70 meter ropes and rapped off without injury or insult. I found the climbing to be a lot easier than many other routes that claim the grade. And I even found an empty turtle shell by the creek...which is... more >>


Location: SD : Horsethief Lake Area : The Chessmen : Happiness is Water : Happiness is Whiskey (5.8)
By: BBQ When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: An absolute must do if you climb the grade! Starts rampy and gets overhung and sporty. Toss a few small cams into a seam and huck for some jugs and gain a bolt. After the exciting intro this climb becomes just as awesome as Baba Cool in terms of big crystally crimps and jugs where you want them. Clip a few more bolts that are spaced with a sensible Needles mentality gaining altitude on crimps and bomber chicken heads. You can grab and step on anything cuz the rock is superbly solid everywhere! B... more >>


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Shadowlands : Seepy Creepy Wall : Nightmare on Addie Street (5.11c/d)
By: BBQ When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: Candyman, 5.12c, Dr. Evil, 5.12c and Buffalo Bill, 5.12a


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Stonehenge : Sing Me Spanish Techno (5.13+ PG13)
By: BBQ When: Jul 28, 2015

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Comments: Good work, Chris! Keep getting after it!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Danks : Freakin' High (5.11a)
By: BBQ When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments:
  • edit. This route is awesome! Just be prepared to grin and bear the grit that may accumulate over the winter and spring if you are going for onsight. Or just brush a few holds and prepare yourself for a fun red point.



Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Danks : Hurtin' for a Squirtin' (5.12c)
By: BBQ When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Edit* Mr. Yeti seems like a pretty nice guy after all. This is one of my continuing projects and I will continue to climb it making sure that it sees the traffic needed for future accents to be enjoyable by visitors.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Danks
By: BBQ When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Oh the irony of it all. You come to South Dakota to escape the crowds in Colorado and then proceed to whine about dirty holds...that are probably dirty from a lack of traffic...due to the lack of crowds. Sorry if certain conditions, caused by nature, ruined your onsight. Bring a tooth brush. Bring extra chalk. Bring a better attitude. Drop the desire to onsight everything in sight because Spearfish Canyon climbing is about red pointing. Every climb, in every area, in Spearfish Canyon, has its im... more >>


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Danks
By: BBQ When: Jul 18, 2015

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Comments: Well, let's just hope that not-so-Gneiss guy never comes back, I like The Danks uncrowded anyway. But seriously, folks...I can assure you that Mr. Yeti's opinion is not held by the majority of climbers who have come to The Danks and actually enjoyed it.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (3) Phoenix : Fred On Air (5.10c/d)
By: BBQ When: Jul 8, 2015

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Comments: The best 5.10+ onsight I have had the pleasure of bagging at Smith Rock. Can't say enough good things about it. Get on it!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Near Downs : ... : Photo
By: BBQ When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: They ended up going home in a WHAAAMBULANCE!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Danks : Party In My Pants (5.12a)
By: BBQ When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: Bagged this one the evening before we left for Smith Rock again. If you want to get on and send your first 5.12a in Spearfish Canyon, this route is a super good one. Overhung on big holds, picture perfect stone, a crimp section that is crazy (yet doable) and finishing moves on big holds makes this 12a one to write home about.


Yeee ha! Only 15 more routes to go before The Million Cranks in the Danks Project is finished. Black and Tan 5.12b, Schmitt's Gay 5.12b, Booze Cruize 5.11d, Root Beard ... more >>


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Danks : Faded (5.11c)
By: BBQ When: May 22, 2015

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Comments: Wander here a whole summer, if you can. Thousands of God's wild blessings will search you and soak you as if you were a sponge, and the big days will go by uncounted.
- John Muir

It is with a heavy yet relieved heart that I end the first act of the Million Cranks in the Danks Project. I will be going on a road trip to climb classics in Lander WY, The City of Rocks ID, and Smith Rock OR. Everywhere I go and everything I climb for the next two weeks will not compare to this place I... more >>


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Thunderhead : Nimbostratus (5.9+)
By: BBQ When: Mar 14, 2015

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Comments: Success! Red pointed all five of the most fabulous routes on the left hand side of The Thunderhead. I started with Bitches and relaxed and rested my way through every square feet of the difficult stuff. Pussies and Bitches went down first go as did Zephry II which went down without a fight after I figured how to rest before grabbing those small holds at the final crux. A bad foot placement caused me to take the ride on Smoke. After a long rest it went down second go. Cataclysm went into the shad... more >>


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Thunderhead : Nimbostratus (5.9+)
By: BBQ When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: 6 Thunders Update:

A nice evening session allowed me to figure out that Reigning Pussies and Bitches can be sent first go without a warm up. I decided to climb Zephyr next and sent it on the first go as well. Getting these two longer, pumpy routes out of the way first might make this "enchainment" project of mine totally possible as long as I can catch good rests and overcome the next two cruxes up the hill. Trying to string all 5 together this weekend.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Thunderhead : Nimbostratus (5.9+)
By: BBQ When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: Six Thunders In A Day Project:

A three week weather delay caused painfully horrible climbing that led to only 4 out of six climbs attempted and multiple falls and hangs. The following day I led the 11b right out of the gate and fell three times before taking it to the anchors. Sent on the second go. Took down Smoke and Mirrors on the first go and made it all the way to the last bolt on Zephry II before pumping out. Attempted Bitches just once and hung twice. Attempted Zephry II a second time an... more >>


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Thunderhead : Nimbostratus (5.9+)
By: BBQ When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Brent Larsen's Six Thunders in a Day Project. Feb 8th 2015.

Nice weather made for the first day of attempting 5 consecutive climbs.

Nimbostratus = Sent first go
Smoke and Mirrors = Sent first go. Worked it to death previous day.
Reigning Pussies and Bitches = 2 hangs.
Katabatic Cataclysm = multiple falls and red pointed after a break.
Zephyr II = 1 hang.
Rip Snorter = not attempted.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : ... : Photo
By: BBQ When: Dec 5, 2014

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Comments: A great pitch. Gets steep!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Khayyam Spire : Yellow Wall (5.12a)
By: BBQ When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for all your hard work, Mike. I will be getting on this route for sure now.


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