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Me and Spearhead


Member Since: Oct 20, 2007
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Brent Apgar


Point Rank: # 3,340
Total Points: 141
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brent Apgar been climbing?










Contributions


All 1506 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 81 | Posts 629 | Stars 786 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Strange Cargo (5.11a)
By: Brent Apgar When: Apr 2, 2011

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Comments: Have to give it four stars for last pitch. Super fun route, thanks, RR.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : Photo
By: Brent Apgar When: Mar 29, 2011

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Comments: Great shot, but not exactly the easiest(shortest) rap off the monkey.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Standard Route (5.6)
By: Brent Apgar When: Feb 24, 2011

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Comments: Probably one of the better routes for the grade in the canyon. Certainly it's worth the time and hardware the FAist put forth putting it up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Muscular Dystrophy (5.11a)
By: Brent Apgar When: Nov 21, 2010

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Comments: +1 on Guy H's beta. I like using an old style 3.5 cam in the pod at the end of the crack. It's a tight fit but a new #4 C4 also works in the same place.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo
By: Brent Apgar When: Nov 7, 2010

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Comments: Isn't this the start of pitch 3? At least the way the routes broken down in the new Levin guide.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : The List (5.10b)
By: Brent Apgar When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: I'm not sure if this has been retro-bolted or simply had a hardware upgrade, but it's got no home made hangers on it anymore.
I think that it was still only 5 bolts to rings.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Corner Pockets (5.10c)
By: Brent Apgar When: Oct 17, 2010

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Comments: G-
Wouldn't be surprised if this became one of the area classics w/ the additional hardware.
Great line, thanks for the effort.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Indistinction (5.8)
By: Brent Apgar When: Sep 26, 2010

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Comments: Was up there today. Current anchor is 2 bolts: 1 hanger has a steel rap ring on it and the other currently has a biner on it.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Beasto (5.10-)
By: Brent Apgar When: Sep 25, 2010

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Comments: Definitely want to use some longer draws on the upper arete. Without the extra wiggle room, you can't really get the rope to run nicely. The shorter draws won't allow you to flip the rope back to the right side of the arete.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Officer Friendly (5.11c)
By: Brent Apgar When: Sep 25, 2010

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Comments: Perhaps we should make that part of the new equiping ethos, the FA has to not only pay for the hardware, clean and equip the route, but they also have to include chain draws as part of the process... since they haven't done nearly enough to open up more convenient climbing for the rest of us.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Black 'N Dicey (5.10a)
By: Brent Apgar When: Sep 19, 2010

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Comments: That's because it is much better than 27 Tons.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Counter Balance (5.10c/d PG13)
By: Brent Apgar When: Sep 19, 2010

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Comments: Definitely stick clipped the first bolt. Some actual climbing on less than inspiring rock to get to said bolt.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Muted by Reality (5.11a)
By: Brent Apgar When: Sep 19, 2010

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Comments: Super cool climbing for the first half of the route, just couldn't quite give it four stars. Might be the best slab route at the grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Mystery Ship (5.10a)
By: Brent Apgar When: Sep 12, 2010

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Comments: The route has certainly cleaned up. I'd have to say that some of the grade issue may have to do w/ what Slim is talking about.

I would have to agree in part that this route isn't bolted well (especially not for a leader pushing 5.10s). Although the climbing through the first 2/3s of the route isn't all that difficult compared to the crux, there is a very real potential for ground fall from near the 2nd bolt. Not sure why the bolts were configured as such, but don't let your guard down til you'v... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Knight of Swords (5.10c)
By: Brent Apgar When: Sep 12, 2010

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Comments: Thanks, RR, for all the work up this way, very beautiful setting. This route was probably the best of the ones I got on.

Seems pretty clean at this point, the only thing that seemed concerning was the fractured lower part of the giant, left-facing flake at mid-height; however, I can't really imagine how it could be pulled on to break it out from behind the solid flake.

I definitely agree w/ TB that if you're not feeling very solid, stick clip or lean across and climb the first sectio... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Golden Shower Wall : Pushing Two Hundred (5.11b/c)
By: Brent Apgar When: Aug 25, 2010

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Comments: There's not much else that I could say that hasn't already been voiced.
Personally I would have to say that, regardless of the bolters intentions and whether or not the route complies w/ RMNP regulations, this was not the best idea and would ask that the developers please remove the route.
-BA


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Mystic Mile (5.10c)
By: Brent Apgar When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: Would have to agree w/ David, this gets the 3rd star if done as one long pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Advanced Rockcraft (5.12b)
By: Brent Apgar When: Aug 6, 2010

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Comments: S-
Thanks for making the effort to upgrade the hardware.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Triple Play (5.10a)
By: Brent Apgar When: Jul 10, 2010

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Comments: Interesting, I had no idea that there are supposedly 2 distinct lines here.


Location: General Climbing : Best Locations for the Clim... : Post : Photo
By: Brent Apgar When: May 26, 2010

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Comments: Definitely the coolest thing I've seen on MP in quite some time.
Thanks Scott


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Down n' Dirty (5.10c)
By: Brent Apgar When: Apr 25, 2010

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Comments: Climbed this route recently and it must have cleaned up. I didn't find any loose rock after turning the roof. Seemed solid enough the whole way, definitely unique in that you pretty much have to use the crack to surmount the roof or at least it's probably the easiest way to get through the steep stuff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Beer Barrel Boulder : East Slab aka The Downclimb (V0)
By: Brent Apgar When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: Aka The Downclimb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : The Stroke of Midnight (5.10d)
By: Brent Apgar When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: The start to the route definitely feels forced and is going to feel harder for the shorter folks even using the cheater blocks underneath the roof. I thought that the rest of the climbing was worthwhile.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Melancholy Man (5.11b)
By: Brent Apgar When: Mar 13, 2010

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Comments: I'm going to contradict Matt K. The grapefruit sized hold I yarded off and threw at his head (thanks Matt for still catching me) was from the alternate L hand start to this route, Tuesday Afternoon.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Mirthmobile (5.10a) : Photo
By: Brent Apgar When: Feb 17, 2010

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Comments: Not sure I'd go so far as to call what's at the top of this route a bona fide "anchor".


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