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Rock Climbing Photo: Bringing the 90s to 2012 at Smith with an old Cano...


Member Since: Jul 25, 2011
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact BrendanP

Point Rank: # 6,370
Total Points: 74
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 205 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 34 | Posts 6 | Stars 82 | Ratings 76
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Mine cart area : Streaked (V6+)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 26, 2016

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Comments: This problem should definitely start on the low crimps with the heel, and done that way felt like V7 or, if you're short, V70


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Twilight Area : ... : Methuselah (5.11c)
By: BrendanP When: Feb 26, 2016

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Comments: Cool route, firing straight up into Money for Nothing at the end is well worth it! Don't let the 12+ grade intimidate, it is awesome! Hard to keep the rope off of janky edges if you finish out right....


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Pollen Grains / Lidija Boul... : ... : Suspended in Silence (V5 R)
By: BrendanP When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: Too bad that it has broken but it felt like a 5 to me! Get that heel up and pull. Beautiful line.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Punk Rock : ... : Photo
By: BrendanP When: Oct 15, 2015

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Comments: Holy erosion! Barely even looks like the same problem.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Divination (5.11b)
By: BrendanP When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: Do the direct start for sure!

As for the last pitch, maybe it was the sudden flurry of golden snowflakes that happened upon us right at sunset, when the whole frozen canyon was bathing in the magnificent hues of a growing twilight, or maybe it was just a false spirituality brought on by the pain of my freezing toes in their over-tight shoes, but the last "roof" is actually really awesome.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Twilight Area : ... : Photo
By: BrendanP When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: Ahhh, that thing is called Money for Nothing! Maybe closer to .12b, super duper fun in any case.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Twilight Area : ... : The Scrilla (5.12b)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: We (intentionally) left quickdraws on all the bolts above the No Crisis anchors today. All are of course welcome to use them. They are in good shape, so please don't remove them unless you truly feel they are unsafe. Hopefully they will make lowering off / cleaning the bottom part of the route more convenient. I will edit this comment if we take them down or see that they have been removed.

Give this beasty a shot! It's very proud!


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Eden Area : ... : Garden Of Eden (5.11a)
By: BrendanP When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: Maybe the coolest single mixed pitch I've done thus far. I found the last couple of moves hard enough to protect that I ended up running it out. Pretty exciting! But I came up just slightly left of the anchors, which may not have been the best way....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Politically Incorrect (5.10c)
By: BrendanP When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: At the top crux, the decent holds are obscured by a manic spatter of shitty semi-pockets, which for me turned the last two bolts into a miserable grovel. Not really hard for the grade, just hard to read. The guidebook doesn't lie when it says the moves are intensely varied, and for this I do give it some credit.

My partner loved it, guess I'm the oddball here.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : New Ethics (5.12a)
By: BrendanP When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: Don't let the shitty bushwhacking through the first bolt turn you off of this route. The mantle right at the start is really cool and the upper section, while hard to read, makes for some great movement.

P.S. During the mantle, it kinda seems like you could deck on the big ledge below if you blow itÂ… but rest assured that we blew this move several times and all was well.

P.P.S. Pretty sure FA: Bob D'Antonio.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Man Hands (5.10d)
By: BrendanP When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: The seam is okay (kind of weird), but the crack above is pure joy. If that crack were longer, it would be 4 stars.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Wipeyur Buttress : Snapping Station (5.12a)
By: BrendanP When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: Don't be discouraged by the first fifteen feet or so of loose stuff, the moves above will give you the best kind of amnesia. Some thoughtful bolt-skipping will help through the first crux as well as help to reduce rope drag above - be safe!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Hunky Monkey (5.11b)
By: BrendanP When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: As of Aug. 2, it is pretty easy to keep your shoes and rope dry through p1 with a wee bit of traversing in the beginning, but any pulling of your rope if you choose to rap down will certainly get it soaked. Have fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Variation to Hunky Monkey (5.11d)
By: BrendanP When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for posting, we climbed this route betaless and so we weren't sure exactly which variation we'd done.

Last two pitches brought out some technical, smeary stems that felt insecure but are very well-protected and fun. The trick to the fourth pitch crux is to be tall, but my partner (shorty) somehow pulled through it with some invisi-crimp micro-pinch bullshit. Whatever works, I guess.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : The Scoop Area : Master of Disaster (V5)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: May have been on the wrong problem, but the underclings seem pretty distinct.... This problem was reachy for sure, but no way was it a V5 unless we were doing something totally wrong.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : The Scoop Area : The Scoop (V3+)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: Firing straight up the roof is a little reachy and a bit scary but fully worth it. End this excellent problem with a bang!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : The Hurricane (5.12b)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: Super clean, thin, sustained, and so so good. After a dozen trips to Shelf, this may still be my favorite route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Legend on the Fall (5.12b)
By: BrendanP When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: "Just believe" is so appropriate for the lower crux - even after finally figuring it out, it still felt like I had missed a crucial hold. Unbelievably thin and pretty frustrating. The upper section drops back down into hard 5.11 territory with great moves the whole way, so don't be discouraged if you're stuck at the crux!


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall : Bubble Boyz (5.12a)
By: BrendanP When: Jan 18, 2013

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Comments: From the ground seems like a squeeze job but actually very fun and thoughtfully bolted. Climbing is VERY similar to Stone Groovin, the 11d just to the right (which is every bit as hard)


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Monet (5.11d)
By: BrendanP When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: Try going left after the bush instead of right.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Greatest Route (5.8)
By: BrendanP When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: Well-protected, but the cracks are mostly flared which can make placements slightly tricky.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : ... : Photo
By: BrendanP When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: Cool picture, but pretty sure this is Karma Mechanic. Castrator is much farther north along the wall.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Phase Dance (5.12-)
By: BrendanP When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: Hitting the crux in sequence is very difficult, a take/fall at bolt eight lets you cheat the beta pretty hard.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Leviathan (5.11d)
By: BrendanP When: Sep 1, 2012

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Comments: Neat route. The crux is very thin and discouraging (where are the holds?), but visibility is good and the sequence isn't hard to derive - perhaps being taller helps through the (nearly) no-hands high-steps.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Divination Direct (5.11d)
By: BrendanP When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: Did this route by accident, was a little baffled at first that everybody thought the roof sections were cruxy given the much pumpier and more sustained climbing down low - now I know the full story. Thanks for the direct start, it adds quality to an already excellent route.


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