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Member Since: May 6, 2002
Last Visit: Aug 23, 2008
Contact Brendan Sheehan


Point Rank: # 4,641
Total Points: 81
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Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brendan Sheehan been climbing?










Contributions


All 30 | Routes 3 | Areas 2 | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 21 | Posts | Stars 4 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Dicker's Peck

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a (8)

Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Navajo Peak

Jun 17, 2002

North Face

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c (8)

Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 400'

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Navajo Peak

Jun 17, 2002

Taylor Glacier

(12)

Trad, 1200'

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Loch Vale & uphill

Jun 6, 2002

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Navajo Peak

CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks

Jun 18, 2002

Taylor Peak

CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock

Jun 7, 2002

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Odessa Gorge : Flattop Mountain - N side : The Hourglass (WI3)
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Aug 23, 2008

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Comments: Climbed this on 8/23/08. Found hard snow top to bottom with no real ice. Max angle about 50 degrees, we avoided a small blunted cornice. Did not find this one to be longer or steeper than east couloir.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : McHenry's Peak : NE Ridge or Arrowhead Arete
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Oct 13, 2005

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Comments: Did this route from the Solitude Lake side in late September of 2005. Great route. The difficulty was greatly increased by a lot of early season snow, some of which had melted and refrozen into genuine ice. Since the terrain tends to be slabby, a rope is justified if it's wet, snowy or icy. We brought a rope thinking we might not need it, but in the conditions we ended up using it.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Odessa Gorge : Flattop Mountain - N side : East Couloir (WI2)
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Sep 3, 2004

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Comments: Climbed this 9-3-04. Here's my take on conditions, etc. There is no significant trace of last weeks new snow, conditions are typical late summer hard snow/ice. Bottom 2/3: ice to very hard snow at around 40 degrees. Top 1/3: hard snow at around 50 degrees. Exit: options exist from 50 degrees to 70+. We took the steeper option and belayed the last 100 feet. The final 20-30 feet was very secure hard snow at about 70 degrees. I was able to get a solid picket in below this section with some m... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Aug 9, 2004

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Comments: Climbed this on Aug. 8. Have to agree that it's a VERY long day. Descended into the basin between Ypsilon and Chaquita staying well away from Donner Ridge, then hiked back to Ypsilon Lake. This worked but was a bit difficult and exhausting after the long climb. Descent into the basin is steep, loose, and tedious and the way from the basin to Ypsilon Lake is not totally obvious. I'd say having a car at Chapin Pass would be a huge help. Anyway, a great climb.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Spiral Route (5.4)
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Jul 26, 2004

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Comments: I also ended up at the headwall at the top of the east meadow. The obvious scrambling will take you there and it seems like most people end up there. I'd call the pitch we did on the left side of the headwall at least 5.6 and I don't think there's an easier line on that wall. I guess the easier way is somewhere on the left as you scramble up towards the headwall. Did the traversing decend below the crest as described in Roach's RMNP book, (a great guide for scrambles and easy climbs) and fou... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Mount Neva : North Ridge
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Sep 16, 2003

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Comments: Did this a couple years ago. Don't remember exactly how close to the ridge I stayed, but I also found one 20-30 ft. class 4 wall that was fun and secure w/o rope. I descended from the summit basically straight towards Lake Dorothy on scree and then moderate snow...it was a bit awkward and loose but reasonable and quick.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Mount Toll : North Ridge (5.6 R)
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Jul 19, 2003

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Comments: Climbed on 7-19-03. Here's how it went for us. Starting at base of ridge, 100 feet or so of 3rd class before roping up. P1: 150 feet 3rd class to about 5.4. P2: 80 feet 3rd class to about 5.4 This got us to the big ledge. Continuing above the big ledge on the ridgeline.... P3: 80 feet of crack/chimney with a few awkward/overhung moves up to solid 5.8. P4: 80 feet of 3rd class to about 5.4. This got us to a false summit. Downclimbed 40 feet or so, joining the 4th class route from th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Clementine (5.5)
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Jun 16, 2003

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Comments: I thought the traverse and bulge on P1 made it a fun pitch. Very solid pro is available but not obvious before the bulge. P2 is interesting and a little airy. Good climb overall.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Jun 14, 2003

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Comments: Climbed it on 6-14. Snow was soft in many places, icy in a few. Put on crampons about 2/3 of the way up. (Was on the route from roughly 6:30 to 10:30.) Found about four small rock steps that were not too hard, but I found a second tool helpful on a couple of them. the main "ledge" area of the loft decent was very wet, loose and snowy. It seemed sketchy to me so we belayed a traverse of maybe 100 feet.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Arapahoe Peaks : South Ridge
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Jun 9, 2003

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Comments: did this on 6-6-03. seemed fun and reasonable to me with snow on it. The road is totally dry. Loads of snowmelt waterfalls on s. arapahoe and avalanche debris near the trailhead. Both times I've been up here it's been very cold because of strong persistent wind even though it's hot below treeline. There were snow flurries on 6-6.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Taylor Glacier
By: Brendan Sheehan When: May 25, 2003

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Comments: The red dots in the picture cut left off taylor glacier about a third of the way up. The main line stays right in the narrowing couloir. The options around the cornice discussed above come into play very near the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : West Overhang (5.7)
By: Brendan Sheehan When: May 18, 2003

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Comments: The start of P1 could be awkward for shorter leaders, if the obvious handhold is out of reach. The roof seemed reasonable, with big positive handholds, and well-protected with piton plus gear. A 50m rope JUST get you from the bolts at the top left of P2 to the top of P1. The second rap is from slings around a short tree 15 feet or so below this point, so with one 50m you have to downclimb this easy but somewhat exposed section between raps. From the tree, a 50m goes to the ground with a litt... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Duh Dihedral (5.6)
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Jul 9, 2002

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Comments: Just left of Duh Dihedral is a route listed in the Rossiter book as "Tampon" (5.7). It's between Duh Dihedral and Pool of Blood. Go up a few feet to a ledge with a tree (awkward) and get onto another ledge fout feet up and right of the first one (awkward again) then make several fun lieback moves off of a few widely spaced but very positive chalky handholds. After that you either have to step right into the duh dihedral or deal with about ten feet of what appears to be extreamly difficult fac... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Northeast Ridge (5.6)
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Jul 5, 2002

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Comments: did this route on 7-5-02. Great route, spots of 5.6 scattered along the first four pitches. The rock is somewhat broken and grabbing large but disconected blocks is common. A couple such blocks shifted and it was pretty alarming. Anyway, testing all such handholds before commiting to them could definately prevent an injury. Also, it's easy to knock off softball sized rocks on the ascent and the rap route, and they just go screaming down the route smashing into things harder and harder as th... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Navajo Peak : North Face (5.4)
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Jun 25, 2002

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Comments: Roach rates it 5.0-5.2, but discusses a 5.7 variation ( which I couldn't find ) And a 5.3-5.4 variation through the summit cliff, which I included in my description, so that's how I arived at 5.4.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Idle Hands (5.6)
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Jun 25, 2002

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Comments: The Boulderado is a good crag for working on easy leads. The line left of Idle Hands, marked 2 on the above picture is called Ho Hum, 5.4 in the guidebook. I didn't figure it was worth a separate write up, but it's as good as Idle Hands and the short diheadral above and left of the tree offers an opportunity to practice jams.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : North Face Center (5.7)
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Jun 24, 2002

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Comments: On a humorous note, this route is approaching sport climb status with 4-5 stuck piece of gear and a piton or two........ Rack: QDs, there's s*** stuck all the way up the crack...... Seriously though, it's one of the best routes in Boulder Canyon in my opinion.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Navajo Peak
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Jun 20, 2002

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Comments: I was just up there. There is ZERO snow in Airplane gully, you can climb it on scree. If you want to climb on snow you could use Navajo Snowfield, Apache Couloir, or Queen's Way.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Jun 17, 2002

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Comments: Climbed the Petit on 6-14-02. I'd like to mention a dangerous loose block on the summit. It's a HUGE cube-like block, at least 500 pounds that is tempting to grab on the last move as you top out. My partner grabed it briefly and it shifted. This thing is ready to go and it could easily hurt or kill someone. It was pretty frightening when it shifted.

As for the descent...the double rope rap to the north is VERY likely to result in stuck ropes when you pull the ropes. Consider having the la... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Central Chimney (5.6)
By: Brendan Sheehan When: Jun 11, 2002

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Comments: Wasn't real impressed with this route. It's ok....but far from great. I don't know why Rossiter gives it a star. P2 and P3 offer a few thoughtful moves for the 5.6 leader...but that's about it. Bolts atop P1 may be a bit of a stretch with a 50m. I stopped to belay 10+ feet short, but it may have streched.


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