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Rock Climbing Photo: Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH


Member Since: Oct 18, 2010
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Brendan Blanchard

Brendan Blanchard
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Point Rank: # 2,055
Total Points: 362
Last Year: 52
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brendan Blanchard been climbing?










Brendan Blanchard

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1277 | Routes 6 | Areas 1 | Photos 43 | Page Improvements | Comments 72 | Posts 620 | Stars 391 | Ratings 144
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : Left Arete Project (5.11 V3)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: I cleaned some of this off on rappel last spring and tried the start a bit. It certainly felt like hard-ish technical moves right off the ground, but holds await on the second half.


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Storm Boulders : Warrior (V3) : Photo
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Aug 2, 2013

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Comments: Where does the V4 on the right start?


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Rubicon (5.10b)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: Finally got around to finishing this one. I went up and left to clip the crux bolt, then came down and kept more right to pull the moves. Definitely felt a little more than 10b, and kinda similar in nature to the low crimpy crux of Millennium Falcon.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Little Big Man (5.11b)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: A fun short bouldery route. That drop-knee is deeeeep, it feels like spring-loading your leg.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : The Nuthatch (5.7)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: A corkscrew, or turning around several times can help ease the groveling feeling.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : s. The Golden Wall : Slot Machine (5.6)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: I didn't find the gear to be awful or terribly sparse. I placed 5 or 6 pieces, and the only real run-out was the first bulge. I think PG/13 is a fair warning. Not perfect, but also not a death defying lack of gear.

After the runout, a #2BD fits very well, tucked back underneath an outcrop in the crack. You could haul wide gear up, but it would seem a little silly. It's also a lieback, rather than OW, unless you like making things harder than they should be.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Rainbow (5.6)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Sufficiently fun at the grade. Ideally, it should be led, cleaned on TR, then the TR-er should rap.

Cleaning on rappel is not terribly fun, efficient, or otherwise pleasant for your rope. I would suggest a prussik/autoblock to allow some traversing and moving to get to the middle bolts because of the roof.


Location: NH : Southern NH and Seacoast : Stonehouse Pond : The Nose (5.8)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: My first 5.8 trad lead, without me even knowing it! I always knew it was stiff, but didn't give it much thought.

Fun route, the bottom can be semi-protected by a red tri-cam in the flaring flake. After a few moves you can lean left and place a small C4 or TCU in a good flake. Maybe not R, but also not your standard protected route.


Location: NH : Southern NH and Seacoast : Stonehouse Pond : Desperation (5.10a)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: Does this start directly under the first bolt, or slightly to the right?


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs : Rock Lobster (5.9)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: Landonf, any word on what the lead is like? What kind of gear, and falls?


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : Swayback (5.9+ R)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Very fun, worth every delicate move. Extremely fun and rewarding to stick the top, not to mention relieving. The less daring could pre-place a cam at the top flake easily enough, but I think it would be much better without. Three stars if it weren't so damn short.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6) : Photo
By: Brendan Blanchard When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: Mark, I wouldn't say I was outraged, more disappointed. My partner and I had just finished Sliding Board, and headed to Cathedral to round out our day. I wanted to take him up Thin Air or Rapid Transit, but instead we did the Saigons.

The group was there when we got there, and packed up and left about an hour later, so they may have been there for 2 or more hours, someone else could tell you better than I could.

I posted the picture mostly for opinions, and overall it's about what I expected.... more >>


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : Rip Van Winkle (5.10a)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Jim, I think I've avoided going out right because there is glue/chopped bolt garbage on that face. If I remember, I place my gear carefully, then make a high smear/slanted toe jam with a foot (R/L?), then move my other foot up and then finish up.

+1 for no bolt. This was my first outdoor 5.10, trad OR sport. For Red Rocks 5.10 slab, it's only beaten by Morning Glory. Yeah I call 5.10 on Morning Glory, sorry....


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Sliding Board (5.7 R)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 28, 2013

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Comments: Did for the first time today. We should have linked pitched 2&3, instead we linked 4&5** and 6&7**, both are obviously run out to start, so it doesn't change that much.

The bolt on the last 2 pitches/simul finish was missing it's hangar. I failed to spot it on the way up, but another party told me it had no hangar. Unfortunately, a 70m will not link those two final easy pitches.

  • *We used a 70m, and had >15 feet left at the end of both links.



Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Illmob Boulder : Hitman (V4)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Did a hold break on the arete? I didn't climb it today, but I've looked at it before, and there was a big scar on the arete and it looked like it was missing something?


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Method Area : No Need to Be Gripped (V3)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: I'd have to disagree, I found this to be 3ish, possibly a little soft. I found Imperial Action or No Sweat now(?) to be harder for me than this. Different styles maybe?


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : X.L. (V2) : Photo
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: Ha. The height looks trivial in this picture. Not so much in person....


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering : Throng (V4-5)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: Really fun! Probably a V3(?) if you start with your right hand on the upper arete hold, that first move is rough.


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Fire Road Boulders : Bugland : Bugland Direct (V3)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: This could probably clean up better than Bugland Arete because it can be started without the flexy flake. It will only get better with a little traffic.


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Rainforest Boulder (Valley ... : All Purpose (V4)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Nov 10, 2012

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Comments: A really great problem, it should see more action.


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Buttermilk Boulder : Bolt On Top (V1)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Oct 28, 2012

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Comments: Someone heavily chalked and X'd the top-most big hold. It' flexes ever so slightly when pulled on hard, I wouldn't worry, but people should know.

It goes alright without that hold, just a little more techy at the top.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : The Maltese Falcon (5.8)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: Really fun slab, would be better than Green Mile if it had cooler features/aesthetics. Great movement through the upper wall though. Traffic is what it needs most!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : The Anchovy Caper (5.8)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: Fun route, glad I decided to get on it. I found the smoothest way to do that last mantle is to get the best left hand on the sloping rail, then palm on the flat edge with your right, then mantle it through. Felt not-awkward, which is impressive for me and mantling.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Espresso (5.10d)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: The start also feels stout for me, I climb the ramp, clip the first bolt, then move down/left and start the real climbing. I use one of the pockets as a flat edged sidepull, throw into the crack, then pop to a jug up and right, clip the second bolt, then finish straight up the line. If I skipped that section or found an easier way, the route would not feel 10d to me.

Quick clips are getting pretty worn as of 7/8/12.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Holderness Corner : Holderness Arete (5.10b)
By: Brendan Blanchard When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: Haven't climbed this yet, but the guide book recommends a cam to cover the start of the route.


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