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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : Chivalry (5.10 PG13)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Come on, Jason. This is not a bomb and I found no loose rock, but the lichen is on the rock and not on the good holds. Stick clip the first bolt and have fun. This is a good slab climb that keeps you thinking.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Swinging Chimps (5.11a)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the book, it calls this a 11b and I agree with that. I found between the first and second bolt was a little weird, but the holds were huge, at least I thought they were, again I am 6 foot. Bob Robertson and Ed Quesada had the FA.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : The Apple Bites Back (5.11c)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the second bolt was fine. If you get scared by a 5.6 move to get to it, then bring a cam because the fall would be close to dirt. This route rocks and never has a line to get on it, nice!
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Sudden Impact (5.11a)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does that mean that there is a route on the right? And if so, what is it?
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Not So Killer Bees (5.10d)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route wanders from left to right and is a little runout at the top. Great route nice moves. 7 or 8 bolts, I think.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : The Point, Powderhorn, Colo... : 03 ??? (5.11)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is about a 10c/d depending on height of climber.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Sticks and Stone May Break ... (5.9+)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route now has hangers for an anchor.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : The Army Route (5.5)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Jul 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: first off the new now coped bolts were not unsafe (that is a fact). second everyone has his or her own thoughts on bolting or replacing old gear. i think that climbing should be for everyone, and if you want to top rope,aid,sportclimb,tradclimb or whatever. if the pro is not in the way leave it alone. as far as illegal i thought littering was illegal in the canyon as well. but england seems to think its ok to litter so whats up with that.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Cactus Carrie (5.11b/c)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Mar 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the bolts are in the correct spots. The first bolt is high but low compared to The Garden. I thought the mental crux was high but you won't deck. If the climb is to runout for you, you can protect in a crack or pockets with gear.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : On the Mushroom (5.11b)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Jan 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The runout can be protected by some small gear behind a block use a long sling to reduce rope drag. I didn't see the anchors, so we used the last two bolts to rap, and the bolt below the roof is coming out a bit so finger tighten or bring a wrench if you think about it.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Amphitheater : The Disclaimer (5.11b/c)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Nov 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route it keeps you on your toes and about to barn door several times. It has about 12 draws not including anchors.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Amphitheater : Crickets in the Cabbage (5.10d)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Nov 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Weird moves that keep you thinking. If it rains, you have to give it a couple days to dry out.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Amphitheater : The Full Male Deal (5.10c)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Sep 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb was well protected if you have an active belay. I unclipped all the bolts before the bulge and put a long sling on the bulge bolt. The climbing before the bulge is 5.7 at the most, but a long draw on the bulge bolt and a short one on the next bolt will keep you off the slab (with a good belay).
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Barney (5.9)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Jul 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob and Carrie added some bolts and removed the old anchors. This makes the total # of bolts around 13 ish.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Dust Lust (5.10d)
By: Brandon Schirm When: May 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first bolt isn't bad if you use the flake system for you hands and test the feet before you use them. the feet are weird rock, almost like a bunch of small flakes stuck together. nothing broke off on me but if you were to fall it going to hurt. Overall a great climb if your in the area.
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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Mary Jane Cliff : Mary Jane (5.11b)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Apr 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: question. does LO = lower off? That would be two bolts or do i have to sling something?
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Light Days (5.11a)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Apr 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it was 11a. It's not that hard over the roof once you find the holds.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Metropolis (5.11d)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Apr 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the crux was at the last bolt, at least for me. Skip the clip until your above the last bolt(felt easer than cliping before for me).
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Dough Boys (5.10a)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Apr 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was just rebolted and has around 11 bolts now.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : The Big Chill (5.10c)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Mar 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt placement was fine, if you place bolts to the right more the rock isn't as good. I would rather reach to clip than fall on a bad bolt.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Fish Wall : Seaweed (5.9)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Oct 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The runout is not so bad, the holds are big and the feet are plentiful.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Old Stage Road : Saint Peter's Overlook : The Martyr (5.9)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Oct 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, I did this climb on top rope on 9-23-2007 and had to go back for my first trad lead the next weekend. Stellar route. It has everything, on the last pitch traverse right to a ledge then up a crack to a big roof pull it on two jugs then finish up to the top. What a great climb. It eats gear up and is very safe (until the downclimb, watch out).
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : I lean (5.11a)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Sep 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, what a climb. It is pockets, then a roof, and finishes on body tension moves. What more can you want?
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Hero Driver (5.10d)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Sep 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought it was a neat route with lots of thinking involved, try not to go around the crux, and it is a real treat.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Red Eclipse (5.10c/d)
By: Brandon Schirm When: Sep 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: WATCH OUT!!!!! The last time I was on this route the chains at the top were wearing out due to contacting the bolt.
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