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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Seminar Wall Area : Right Long's Crack (5.11)
By: Brandon R. When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd have to agree with Luke about this being easier than Mother Superior. My knees seem to have a serious disagreement with MS though, so YMMV.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome East End : Scorpion (5.11b)
By: Brandon R. When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This has some of the hardest ".11b" moves I've ever done.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Diemos Cliff : Blues Riff (5.11b/c)
By: Brandon R. When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: the third pitch is a little adventurous and run out, but definitely worth doing once.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Harlequin Dome : By Hook or By Crook (5.11b PG13)
By: Brandon R. When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: no fixed stopper there now, but there's a bolt nearby and the gear is easy enough to place. Also, we got down from the second pitch anchor in one rappel with a single sixty meter rope... barely. The third pitch looks good... wish I would have gone to the top.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side : New Generation (5.11c)
By: Brandon R. When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh, and speaking of hard climbing Suicide junkies, thanks Darrell for taking the time to post all these routes up.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Insomnia (5.11b)
By: Brandon R. When: Jun 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you for your very insightful comment Michael Sokoloff, but I've never been to the Riverside Rock Quarry. Last I checked though, the whole reason for the existence of this website was to get accurate route information, so I think my comments are at least somewhat useful... unlike others here.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Change in the Weather (5.10b R)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is badly bolted. Why put the bolt after the crux when there are stances to bolt before the crux? Purposely runout routes make crappy routes IMO... might as well solo it.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : Lichen Lovers (5.10a)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with Chris completely, though I'm leaning toward bomb.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : Spoodge (5.10d)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got a decent #1 DMM peanut and a sideways #6 stopper a few feet above the bolt, but I'm not sure either would have held a fall. Scary, and kind of exposed for Suicide. I sure wished that piton was a little lower!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Superfluous Bolt (5.10a R)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are a total of two bolts on this route, and I have to admit that I didn't think that either were superfluous! Only "trick" gear I placed were a couple smaller offset nuts.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Obscured By Clouds (5.10d R)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Making the move over the roof was pretty hard. I couldn't come up with a graceful way to do it, instead I pretty much just clawed and scraped my way up it. This might actually be easier for short people, since using the only decent holds left me all scrunched up.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Hillside Strangler (5.10b)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little tricky just getting onto the face, but straight forward fun climbing after that. I didn't find it that scary, but it did have my attention.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Duck Soup (5.10c PG13)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd definitely consider the first pitch runout, with .10- moves way out from your last bolt. I remember my shoes making a lot of squeaking noises, or was that just me?
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Smooth Sole Wall : Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si... : Ultimatum (5.10b R)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the straight up variation at the second bolt, which got me stuck for awhile in a wide stem on sloped holds. Very cool finishing move to the gigantic knob. This climb would fit my definition of an R rating though, and I don't think the runout on BOTB is all that bad, considering how easy it is.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Smooth Sole Wall : Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si... : Battle of the Bulge (5.11a R)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Chris that the crux is at the top bulge. Also, despite the promising looking holds to the left of the third bolt, make sure you go right over the first bulge. This is a fairly sustained route.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side : New Generation (5.11c)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some of you hard climbing Suicide junkies need to post up some routes so I don't have to:)
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Delila (5.8)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great, stout 5.8! If you're a budding 5.8 leader though, be prepared for setting gear from not so great stances with very slick feet.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Rebolting Development (5.11a R)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I only TR'ed the first two pitches in one long pitch from the top. I think this route is much more sustained, and the crux harder, than Valhalla. The third bolt was looking a little old and should probably be replaced considering how vital it is. An amazing route though.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Insomnia (5.11b)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is pretty obvious, and quite awkward, at least for me. I've seen a small girl with tiny hands just straight in jam through the entire flared lie-back section, making it look much easier. As far as I'm concerned, if this is .11A, then I'd have to downgrade a whole lot of other .11A's I've done.
You post a lot of info about routes up here, so I'm just trying to suss out if your info is influenced by the "back in the day bravado" syndrome, or if you are really giving modern, accurate ro... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Insomnia (5.11b)
By: Brandon R. When: May 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.11A?!? Is that a typo or should I be suspicious of all your comments?
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Cave Area : Alcoa (5.11c)
By: Brandon R. When: Feb 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Adam,
Off the top of my head: the anchor on; the mystery bolt boulder, hard as nails and the pair of arete climbs nearby, cool jerk (not that I'm climbing it), Manuel's Horror. You can get by without bolts on some of these, but they're way more of a pain in the butt to set up/get off than Alcoa is.
All and all though, I just don't want to see more chopped bolts up there. I do appreciate your interest in maintaining the area though.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Cave Area : Alcoa (5.11c)
By: Brandon R. When: Sep 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts have been gone for at least 4 years now. A friend and I tried to patch up the bad chop job a few years ago, but you can still see 'em.
It really isn't too hard to set up an anchor with gear, a set of small to medium nuts is all you really need.
If you are going to put in bolts though, consider using just one since there is a VERY easy gear placement that could serve as a backup if someone wants it. And really, if you're carrying a rope up there, it's not that hard to carry a few sto... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Nirvana (5.11a)
By: Brandon R. When: Nov 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing felt harder than the crux of Valhalla. Maybe better in cooler conditions?
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Spooky Spike (5.9)
By: Brandon R. When: Oct 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring micro nuts for the start.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : On the Road (5.10c)
By: Brandon R. When: Oct 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree about the PG rating. Good gear up until the stance where you move to the face. Felt about 5.9 at the seam above. You wouldn't want to fall here.
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