Contributed Comments |
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Seminar Wall Area : Right Long's Crack (5.11)
By: Brandon R. When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd have to agree with Luke about this being easier than Mother Superior. My knees seem to have a serious disagreement with MS though, so YMMV.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome East End : Scorpion (5.11b)
By: Brandon R. When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This has some of the hardest ".11b" moves I've ever done.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Diemos Cliff : Blues Riff (5.11b/c)
By: Brandon R. When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: the third pitch is a little adventurous and run out, but definitely worth doing once.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Harlequin Dome : By Hook or By Crook (5.11b PG13)
By: Brandon R. When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: no fixed stopper there now, but there's a bolt nearby and the gear is easy enough to place. Also, we got down from the second pitch anchor in one rappel with a single sixty meter rope... barely. The third pitch looks good... wish I would have gone to the top.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side : New Generation (5.11c)
By: Brandon R. When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh, and speaking of hard climbing Suicide junkies, thanks Darrell for taking the time to post all these routes up.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Insomnia (5.11b)
By: Brandon R. When: Jun 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you for your very insightful comment Michael Sokoloff, but I've never been to the Riverside Rock Quarry. Last I checked though, the whole reason for the existence of this website was to get accurate route information, so I think my comments are at least somewhat useful... unlike others here.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Change in the Weather (5.10b R)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is badly bolted. Why put the bolt after the crux when there are stances to bolt before the crux? Purposely runout routes make crappy routes IMO... might as well solo it.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : Lichen Lovers (5.10a)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with Chris completely, though I'm leaning toward bomb.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : Spoodge (5.10d)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got a decent #1 DMM peanut and a sideways #6 stopper a few feet above the bolt, but I'm not sure either would have held a fall. Scary, and kind of exposed for Suicide. I sure wished that piton was a little lower!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Superfluous Bolt (5.10a R)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are a total of two bolts on this route, and I have to admit that I didn't think that either were superfluous! Only "trick" gear I placed were a couple smaller offset nuts.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Obscured by Clouds (5.10d R)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Making the move over the roof was pretty hard. I couldn't come up with a graceful way to do it, instead I pretty much just clawed and scraped my way up it. This might actually be easier for short people, since using the only decent holds left me all scrunched up.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Hillside Strangler (5.10b)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little tricky just getting onto the face, but straight forward fun climbing after that. I didn't find it that scary, but it did have my attention.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Duck Soup (5.10c PG13)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd definitely consider the first pitch runout, with .10- moves way out from your last bolt. I remember my shoes making a lot of squeaking noises, or was that just me?
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Smooth Sole Wall : Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si... : Ultimatum (5.10b R)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the straight up variation at the second bolt, which got me stuck for awhile in a wide stem on sloped holds. Very cool finishing move to the gigantic knob. This climb would fit my definition of an R rating though, and I don't think the runout on BOTB is all that bad, considering how easy it is.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Smooth Sole Wall : Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si... : Battle of the Bulge (5.11a R)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Chris that the crux is at the top bulge. Also, despite the promising looking holds to the left of the third bolt, make sure you go right over the first bulge. This is a fairly sustained route.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side : New Generation (5.11c)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some of you hard climbing Suicide junkies need to post up some routes so I don't have to:)
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Delila (5.8)
By: Brandon R. When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great, stout 5.8! If you're a budding 5.8 leader though, be prepared for setting gear from not so great stances with very slick feet.
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