Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging out on Tucupit occidentalis


Member Since: Dec 23, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Brandon Gottung

Point Rank: # 499
Total Points: 1,448
Last Year: 722
Last 30 Days: 0
11 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Brandon Gottung been climbing?










Contributions


All 649 | Routes 64 | Areas 23 | Photos 85 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 32 | Posts 115 | Stars 298 | Ratings 30
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Watchman : Silmaril (5.12a)
By: Brandon Gottung When: May 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I'd recommend skipping the tagline and not hauling. Hauling P3 to the ledge and the classic P6 is nice but, in my opinion, not worth the hassle. The #6 isn't necessary, all the difficult wide sections protect well bumping a #5. For the descent, move right staying on the ridge then move down and left, the rappels are on the left side of the drainage system. 3 30m raps in total.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : North Fork of Taylor : Solstice of Change (5.10+)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Apr 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Great climbing on this route. The exposed position on the sunny prow is spectacular though makes the rock of a weathered quality. Based on the anchor, looks like the route hasn't been repeated since Josh and Eric were up there. Definitely deserves more traffic than that.

Two 70m ropes aren't necessary, a 60m is just long enough for the lead, but a 70m is better. A 60m tag is good.


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : The Dawn Chimney (5.10+ PG13)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Dec 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I had a great time on this route! Don't let the 10+ grade fool you - it feels more intense than its neighbors, earning it a grade IV. I didn't lead the crux pitch, but it seemed bold. Nice lead Adam! Permission granted to add a bolt to the run-out bit. That pitch earns the world class Six Star Belay! And on P7, I did a lousy job cleaning the chimney, sorry, spent all the time digging dirt out of finger crack higher up. If a follower wouldn't mind cleaning a couple those loose bits out of there, ... more >>


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : Photo
By: Brandon Gottung When: Dec 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah it's more Creek-esque than most of the stuff out there. It has that blocky, crisp, clean character.


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : Anti-meridian (5.11+)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Dec 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I did not free this. It'd be an awesome pitch but the left side of the crack has a 3 cm thick rotten shell. This shell sealed the crack shut where it narrows down so I hammered that off while hanging. With some work, it could clean-up well.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Town (5.10d)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Dec 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Climb a proper full-length pitch by passing the first anchor through awesome stems. Two-bolt anchor up and right. Brown and Crunchy. 30 meter 10+.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Country (5.10b)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Dec 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: No need to stop at the first anchor, continue up with awesome stems then follow the widening right crack to a two-bolt anchor. It's Brown and Crunchy. 5.10+.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Dashboard Jesus (5.10+)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Dec 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The first pitch, Brown and Crunchy, has awesome stems, the climbing gets better after the early anchor. Pitch two, Dashboard Jesus, is a beautiful varnished corner. The belay is comfortable, making it a great two pitch outing, both 5.10+.


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : Ding Dong's Crack (5.12)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Dec 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: It'd be great if somebody took out that first anchor and moved it to the ledge above, just to preserve the beauty of the black rock, while still maintaining the original route.


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : The Funky Dan (5.12b)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Dec 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Amazing route - one of the highlights of the trip. Nice work Nick! I just want to chime in that it has cleaned up well and nothing PG13 about it - bomber gear the whole way. Plus you can place a whole set of stoppers on it!


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : Flight of the Locusts (5.12)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Nov 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome route to the first anchor despite its short length. 5.11d to the first anchor and nearly a number grade harder to the second anchor.


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : The Sphinx (5.11c/d)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Nov 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I recommend climbing past the intial anchor through the 20 meter extension (5.10) to make for a full value 45 meter pitch. The extension tops out on a beautiful ledge.

Also, a #6 is not needed for the climb, save the weight on the long approach.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11- PG13)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Oct 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Description: Megamahedral is a high-quality route that climbs Minotaur Tower. Cross the river and follow the path of least resistance up the steep slope to the south side of Minotaur Tower. Scramble up the slabs and set a belay in an alcove below the giant right-facing corner.

P1: 5.11- 56m. Move right into the wide crack and up the right-facing corner. This is fantastic pitch on very good stone!

P2: 5.10+ 45m. Continue up the corner starting with offwidth, tampering dow... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11- PG13)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Sep 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route description should be updated to reflect a more properly prepared ascent of the route. This line is great! And as safe as climbing in Zion can get.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : North Fork of Taylor : Tucupit occidentalis (5.10+)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Jul 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The 5.8+ face finish is protectable but spicy. I think I nested a green and yellow alien in a good horizontal, grey alien in a pocket, slung a horn, then got a #3 friend in a horizontal to protect the final move. Hope you enjoyed it!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : North Fork of Taylor : Tucupit occidentalis (5.10+)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Jul 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Concerning pitch 6, I haven't lead it but it seemed safe enough with good belay and is good and exposed, allowing access to the fantastic final pitch. Karl established this pitch onsight, bolting from stances - super impressive! Once one of us climbs this pitch again, we may consider adding a bolt - this route doesn't need an r-rating. Until then, feedback from others would be appreciated.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Oak Creek Drainages : Sub Peak of Meridian Tower : The Omen (5.11b)
By: Brandon Gottung When: May 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I recommend bringing extra yellow aliens. I brought only 3 or 4 and wanted another couple - 6 in this size wouldn't be excessive. I ended up linking P4 and P5 making for a super rad pitch (200' - a 60m works if the belayer breaks down the anchor and moves forward). We didn't take a #5 and were fine. On the raps, I had a difficult time hitting the anchors on top of P3. I ended up tying a massive knot with the remainder of the ropes and throwing it in the crack and pulling myself in - I reco... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Moroni
By: Brandon Gottung When: Nov 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Approach: There is a sandy trail that goes from the footbridge accessed via Court of the Patriarches to the Emerald Pools trail. This trail parallels Mt Moroni. I think there are some golden tablets somewhere around here. Anyway, there is a large cliff obstruction between the trail and the climbs, when hiking this trail, there is a very obvious break in the cliffs with a ill-defined climbers trail. This break is north of Plan B. This is by far the best option to approach Plan B and climbs to eit... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : Middle Fork of Taylor
By: Brandon Gottung When: Nov 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The closure applies only to the north facing aspect of Paria, so Astrolizard is open being on Tucapit. Try reloading the link, it takes a couple of tries sometimes since it opens a PDF.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : Middle Fork of Taylor : Astrolizard (5.11)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Nov 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I know it's not saying much, but this is the cleanest route I've climbed in Zion. (edit: One year and many routes later, and only the Pain Chamber is cleaner . . .)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Lobotomy (5.11+)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Oct 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Singles .5 to #2, double up on #3 and triples #4 to #6. I used a green bigbro for the third #6 sized piece, placed perfectly at the lip of the little roof feature - bomber.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : FF1 (5.11)
By: Brandon Gottung When: Oct 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Then what is the SH bolt about? Probably a Hong route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Unknown Crack Right of "Wor... (5.10+)
By: Brandon Gottung When: May 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The second pitch is Thicker Than Water - a super rad offwidth - goes at 10+ or so.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: Brandon Gottung When: May 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Rap beta with 80 m rope: From top, down to anchor on top of sugar pitch. From there, an 80 gets within 1-2 feet of the anchor on top 1st pitch, so it's best to stop at the anchor on top crux pitch. From there, an 80 just gets you to the intermediate on pitch 1 - knot the ends! Then to the ground.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Thicker than Water (5.10+)
By: Brandon Gottung When: May 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Super rad pitch - a great addition to the canyon. Give it a whirl! With a couple more ascents, it'll clean up nicely. I'd suggest bringing one #6 C4, an old #5 and new #5 (or just two C4 #5s if that's all you have) then single #4 C4, a 3.5 sized piece, #3, #2, #1 and .75: in camalots.


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!