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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cannon Ice Climbs : Omega (WI5+) : Photo
By: bradley white When: Dec 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent!
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Greeley Ponds (Mad River No...
By: bradley white When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the improvement Mark and the area doesn't need south of north greeley pond. The cascade is on the west side. I'm going to have too get some decent photos.
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Greeley Ponds (Mad River No... : The Journeyman Crag
By: bradley white When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is correct, Mark
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Zealand Notch
By: bradley white When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Mark
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cannon Ice Climbs : Black Dike (5.6 WI4-5 M3)
By: bradley white When: Dec 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was the little train that could today as I belayed Ryan Barber up it. The pins I placed, remarkably are okay. I put them in 28 years ago including the pins at third pitch belay. The third pitch was the crux today up a twelve foot chandelier. I fell off of the top of it seconding. Don't know why my left foot peeled off. Possibly weak ice because of previous dinner plating. No injury and I actually like it. It was my first fall up high and my second fall so far and the other fall I was seconding... more >>
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cannon Ice Climbs : Black Dike (5.6 WI4-5 M3) : Photo
By: bradley white When: Dec 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo of the routes left to right, The Black Dike, Fafnir and Lila (Rainsford Rouner, Nancy Kerrebrock, 3/1976) is right but it is fatter and wider than I thought it could ever get. It had a lots of room for variation.
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Psyche Dike (Bradley Leblan... (5.8+ R)
By: bradley white When: Dec 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now that Mike Z. has done it, I guess he kept it at being unfinished?
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: bradley white When: Dec 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I set up that rap in 2011 and it was not a shit flake. It fit in all the right places and is made of the highest quality pink Conway granite. Why the sling has stayed I don't know, it was booty. That fat rock horn lower right that is bigger and brownish is risky business to rappel off of or crap in my opinion. I believe size and thickness are not as important as physicality and rock composition.
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Shadey Grove (unfinished) (5.8 X)
By: bradley white When: Dec 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Mike did you bring a bolt kit? Did you go to the top and down off of the one 13 yr old 2" hardware store bolt, that's iced over every year? Mike has vote his judgement on this climb to be a bomb. That bolt is a time bomb for sure.
Apparently Mike Z. and I differ like republicans and democrats on policy. Conservative policy climbing I don't do. There is little conservative protection on this route. No? Mike did you add a stone to the cairn Craig and I made and is it still there?
No comment... more >>
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : All Day Sucker (5.8)
By: bradley white When: Dec 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The photo's speak for themselves how good the route is. The start is not the best rock nor the worst. Its the approach steps for twelve feet. That is the only part I would consider undesirable. To each their own taste for climbing. Big difference between Mike Z. and I in what is tasteful or bomb climbing.
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Sam's Swan Song (5.7 PG13)
By: bradley white When: Dec 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't create the rating. Rating is from guide books. The climbing community is redefining rock climbing from rock mountaineering. This is a meandering rock mountaineer's route up a very steep area. It had great importance during its ascent. Almost none now besides lightning crack.
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Fall from Grace (5.12)
By: bradley white When: Dec 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I top roped it in summer of 1988 and did it all except for the bulge. I got through the bulge after multiple slip offs. Found it on rappel and thought it was 5.11+. I thought the climb a bit monotonous having only the bulge to be different. I think I took a left turn on friction to get back right to edge again at the midway bulge. I used to climb parallel trees, legs on one tree and arms edging up the other. This climb I used a similar technique. It was very steep, exhausting pushing my way up t... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Jigsaw Puzzle (5.8+ C0 PG13)
By: bradley white When: Dec 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The original anchors were for retreat. The anchors now are where I planned too put them. Getting through the horn was why I went up there. You did the FFA unless you hung around at the horn. Is it 5.8+?
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Location: NH : Rumney : Yellow Knife Buttress : Old Yeller (5.6 R) : Photo
By: bradley white When: Dec 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes! Thank you for doing the labeling. Lee, can you delete the photo I submitted?
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Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Dickey Ledge : Central Tongue : Slabs Direct? (5.6)
By: bradley white When: Dec 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Were the starting bolts there? How is the solitary bolt looking?
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Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Photo
By: bradley white When: Dec 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My friends were not pleased when we arrived at the scree field fully gear loaded. I took them directly up by bushwhack from Greeley Ponds trail. They hated that and I already knew about the road trail. That is the trail I am referring too. My friends went ape shit about me not bringing them up the road. We made believe we climbed the ledge at the central buttress far away from the steepest. The top of the gorilla and where we rappelled was a hassle to find a pine tree big enough to put body weig... more >>
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cannon Ice Climbs : Black Dike (5.6 WI4-5 M3)
By: bradley white When: Dec 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would if I could (arthritis). I didn't intend on coming off as being scared of the dike. Pinning the second pitch was unethical to everyone in North Conway then. I kept it private. I would repeat the process today. I played it safe to my rules. That is how I related my fear that day to falling onto the rope. I didn't have much fear of falling. Pinning was just my discipline to security. I got to control my fall. They were hard to put in. Climbing without a rope I am expert but I have not done ... more >>
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cannon Ice Climbs : Black Dike (5.6 WI4-5 M3) : Photo
By: bradley white When: Dec 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That ice looks like it formed in a cave. That was lucky!
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Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Photo
By: bradley white When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the crag I described in a comment. In 1981, four of us did two different lines up the central buttress. There is a dirt road that goes almost to the ledge. The orange middle seems impossible to do without all drilling. Have you been there?
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Holts Ledge : The Spiral Staircase (WI4+)
By: bradley white When: Nov 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the first ascent I was leading the pillar and placed a over my head screw. Climbing up to go beyond the screw I kicked into the gate of the carabiner attached to the screw and the gate closed on my crampon. Stuck and angry, first thing I did was weld the axes, have a cursing fit about how stupid I was, place a not so hot screw, get lowered off these three things, make my stuck leg bent max at the knee, be in that position taking off the crampon. When free of it I still had to get the crampon ... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Fisher Block : Fisher Fissure (V6)
By: bradley white When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The only boulder problem I was determined to do. It was attempted in early 80's. I was getting stuck at base of the crack. After many attempts I tried a new way of using my hands in isometric opposition. It worked and I made it over the bulge by the crack. The second moves on the crack I quit and exited, carefully.
The reputation of this problem then was: Leave a finger behind in the upper crack by not making it and falling. I would have been better off not knowing this.
There was no ground fa... more >>
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Location: VT : Vermont Ice Climbing : Ice climbing in Smugglers N...
By: bradley white When: Nov 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does the narrow no escape thin gully near Elephant Head, have a name? I got on it in 1986 and thought it would never end. Ice got shallow often and was not brittle. Same moves over and over again though.
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Zealand Notch : Photo
By: bradley white When: Nov 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nope
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Location: NH : Waterville Valley
By: bradley white When: Nov 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The largest and dangerous walking through them boulder field I have been to is below a south east cliff band. Most of the furthest south cliff is sheered off. Below it in the woods are large boulders. Very dark area and we walked on top of them.
We got to there by being first on the Greeley Pond trail from Waterville Valley side. A lot of this should be open to biking in and maybe all of it. A ways up the trail is the main logging rd heading left uphill. Take that rd until it ends. Shortl... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Utopia Ledges (True Summit ... : The Stones (5.5)
By: bradley white When: Oct 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: hi, Jeffery. These are three axle size, chock stones at the top east side. Climbing the oak trees on the Stones was a bitch! The woods on the east side ledges is open like main cliff and not steep. Almost all old oak and not burnt. This climb can be seen slightly from Buffalo Rd. near the bridge. It is lower than all the other ledges on the summit area and is the first open area to see. It also appears separated from the ledges west of it. Trees block much of the view. The impenetrable ceiling i... more >>
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