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The Dirtiest Climb.


Member Since: Jun 6, 2008
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 59
Total Points: 5,955
Last Year: 321
Last 30 Days: 27
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1399 | Routes 251 | Areas 43 | Photos 523 | Page Improvements | Comments 185 | Posts 4 | Stars 386 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Square Ledge (Mt Passaconaw...
By: bradley white When: Nov 21, 2014

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Comments: Some wilderness areas are no drilling, rock removal, pitons and fixed trad shouldn't be there. mountainwandering.blogspot.com has a great photo of the expanse of this ledge.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Square Ledge (Mt Passaconaw...
By: bradley white When: Nov 21, 2014

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Comments: Zag is on Square Ledge and cool reference site, Thanks. Our goal was Zag but didn't come close. I'll correct the millage. The cut off trail is sooner than the biking distance ends. Oliverian Brook trail 3.5 miles ends away from getting there. We rode as long as we could to get as close as we could. Had second thoughts on leaving our bikes behind for hours. Zealous climbers ignorant and then some. Bikes are not right to leave behind to make a comment.


Location: NH : Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian... : The Beak Buttress (the nose... (5.7 PG13) : Comment : Photo
By: bradley white When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: This first pitch start is far west and lower. Long ago this slab was not bolted. Its difficult to see the start of E6 because of the trees left of the nose buttress block its view. It is very close to the buttress and was a run out ramp up onto the traverse of your second pitch. Actual Second pitch on nose can go direct instead of your party going left diagonal to finish it and it ends up being in the same place.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Free Ghost/Heirophant/Ghost... (5.11+ R)
By: bradley white When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: Excellent you guys did the arches of third pitch. Its probably the second ascent to the Ghost roof. Finished my dream climb makes it real. This is your climb. It can be listed as FFA because it is the first connection of these routes freed together.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Monolith : Sasquatch Summer ascent (5.10)
By: bradley white When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: The gully is really steep and loose footing. Besides rocks going to Yellow Knife a climber could go very far falling down the gully and be very injured. Right side is safest for having a tree or rock to grab onto during loose footing. Then cut across to Sasquatch likely roped in.To be here easily the old climbing trail to the top of route should be reestablished. Its deer tick country up here also. Aren't I making it sound inviting.


Location: NH : Crawford Notch
By: bradley white When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Not a old route. Big slab and room for a few more routes.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : The White Iceberg (5.12)
By: bradley white When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: I always appreciate positive comments. take out and keep the pins and Retro bolt the whole thing and get rid of last belay and go up to base of Moon shadow belay. A much better stance. The first pitch is a warm up pitch for the second pitch. saw route potential rappelling down vertigo and by end of summer route was finished. I drilled first pitch rope solo and Jim bolted second and final pitch rope solo I believe. Then we did it together in the fall. rappelling Vertigo would be a good way to ret... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Wilmington Region : Moss Cliff : Fear of touching Aerie (5.10b/c)
By: bradley white When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: Jim Shimberg and I came here in 1987. We got a really late start and did a treacherous river crossing that brought us north from easy access to this ledge. the swimming is better at the parking spot than crossing north on this river. Our climb started fourth class left side of prow and we found a left facing corner that had to be face climbed with difficultly of 5.10 to get into it from the right, by traversing left towards gear in corner then passing gear to reach wtf nuisance tree that was unt... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass
By: bradley white When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: thanks Jim. I look at moss cliff and its distinguishable.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass
By: bradley white When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: I climbed south of Lake Placid in mid 1980's. the cliff was sectional south or central and the north side uphill and shorter. its three pitches high and nothing moderate on it. Shim and I crossed a fast moving river of rocks for footing to get there and crossed river north of cliff. the route we attempted was central first pitch was barn door moves with difficult protection placements on hard sustained 5.10 and the only way up it trad to tree ledge. the second pitch was two choices corner crack ... more >>


Location: NH : Garfield Crag
By: bradley white When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: Its so exciting for to see from Dave Custer route lines and read from Rob Hall his 1966 ascent. My first try at this ledge was alone in sneakers no rope. I went almost to the top and quit because of wet slimy rock. It was doable and no reverse after slime. It is an early 1940? ascent I repeated guessed because of pin on route found. It looked like that time zone but old pin rusting in wet rock can be from decades later. Its goes up left diagonally from the center area and very easy. I got to ... more >>


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 0. Henderson's Buttress : Pinky and the Brain (5.8 R) : Photo
By: bradley white When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: this is the ledge before the corner above the brain


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Mesresha (open project) (5.12+)
By: bradley white When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: Jame's!


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face
By: bradley white When: May 16, 2014

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Comments: Climbed here in May, 1988 with Jim Shimberg and agreed, it does get greasy humidity on the rock. Run outs were WTF with old 1/4" hardware bolts. no guide book and we did two, probably 5.9's and the classic arch. Didn't think much about grade when I was going to hit the ground after the second bolt. The bolts were spaced reasonably, meaning there was a slope bump to have a stance to hammer a hole in the rock. very rusty crap in 1988 and N.C.N.F. would not permit retro-bolting or doing any new bol... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Chinese Water Torture (5.10 R)
By: bradley white When: May 16, 2014

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Comments: Has become what I thought it should be, a nearly great route. This was solo top rope cleaned, it was way dirtier and I free climbed it after the two pins were placed in the usually seeping wet crack. now there are five or six pins and these other pins are mysterious? I should have led it (oops) because I thought it was clean and not a mortality on the line climb because after the two pins there are natural placements for gear I knew were there. Ted didn't stop for anything and had no gear after ... more >>


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area : Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7)
By: bradley white When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: the pins are relics or untrustworthy


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Ring Mountain : Split Rock
By: bradley white When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: Hi locals, I climbed here several times from 1989-93 with and without a rope. Hardest thing I climbed was probably 5.9 inside the crack east side and contrived. Did all the popular moderates on its north face.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mickey's Beach : Stinson Beach
By: bradley white When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: Hi locals. I used to climb here from 1989-93. I did some of the V1 maybe 2. I had a lot of tries on a overhang on the right side of a large boulder that entered onto the other long sloping face. There are long easy climbs here 5.0-5.8 and I down climbed them all. I don't have specific locations of the boulders I climbed and I don't know that, so I won't post them. Some were high and easy very knobby boulders 30+ft far down south on this beach area I climbed. These were very entertaining and fasc... more >>


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Welch and Dickie Area : Dickey Ledge : The Beach : The Big Crack (5.6 PG13)
By: bradley white When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: Don't remember there being any bolts on this climb and its does make a awesome photo of someone climbing it.


Location: NH : Crawford Notch : Photo
By: bradley white When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: This is the slab across from Willard? Explored that twice and the photo looks like it.
Apparently I had Bore Tide on wrong slab. Someone found Bore Tide and did it and they were lost from the beginning of their climb.
Consensus is Bore Tide goes up the northern side of central slabs. Furthest right is the cascade slab section.
1983 Entered and crossed the river to reach the start slab lowest left in photo (5.5 solo or trad run out). That's How I got to the giant very low angle boiler plate sl... more >>


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Welch and Dickie Area : Dickey Ledge : Central Tongue : ... : Photo
By: bradley white When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Mike, for photo. Try it. I think you'll like it


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Welch and Dickie Area : Dickey Ledge
By: bradley white When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: Rappelling from the 'Beach' top is way easier than the traverse of the ledge at the bottom


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mahoosuc Notch
By: bradley white When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: Man, it was long ago. I came in from the Berlin side or at Gorham. Went east on a logging road many miles to trail head that goes to the trail to the notch. It was a few miles to where I camped and a big half mile to the notch. I didn't explore much and didn't see much, so I missed out on some nice climbs. Its okay the area description. Easy place to understand topographically.
The trail through the notch is nothing but climbing through or over boulders, they are everywhere in the notch.


Location: NH : Tripoli Road Crag
By: bradley white When: Feb 3, 2014

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Comments: Russel crag is not wrong and I could not remember that name. Parker if it is the crag high midway up the hillside, it looks nice.
Woodstock Dome is roadside on Rt.3 and has a decent 5.9 crack with easier run out face to the top belay. There is another easier climb here.
Another roadside large broken sectioned ledge is not accessible because of private property. I have not contacted land owner.


Location: NH : Crawford Notch : Bore Tide (5.10 R)
By: bradley white When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: Not sure anymore. I belief it is on the slab west of this central slab. I have climbed the slab but not the head wall.


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